Many sim racers use the popular Thrustmaster T300RS, so what are the best settings for this wheel on F1 23? Here is our guide.
Released in 2016 to replace the T500, the Thrustmaster T300RS is a popular belt-driven wheel. Thanks to its robustness, fair price and Force Feedback detail, it has become a best seller in the sim racing hardware industry. As a result, many racers run it to this day.
With the latest iteration of the Formula One game now out, many T300RS users will be anxious to perfect their F1 23 Thrustmaster wheel settings. Worry not, I have been tweaking my setup ever since the game’s release and have found a very good feeling from the game. Here is my guide to the T300RS in F1 23.
Table of contents
T300RS Wheel Control Panel & F1 23
Before jumping in the game, it’s important that you wheel has the correct firmware. Here, you must also check that the overall wheel settings make for a good starting point. Do this by opening the Thrustmaster Control Panel and you will be greeted with this page.
Here, you can check that your wheel is working correctly by running checks for inputs and forces. But you can also alter the wheel’s baseline settings. Depending on the sim racer, this page will get more or less use. Personally, I very rarely alter these settings even between games. But if you want to avoid ruining your feeling in other games, make sure to save a preset before making any changes.
Overall Strength of Forces | 100% |
Constant Detailed Gain | 100% |
Periodic Detailed Gain | 100% |
Spring | 0% |
Damper | 100% |
Boost | Off |
Auto-centre | By the game |
With everything at 100% in the Control Panel, I get plenty of responsiveness from my wheel all whilst feeling the weight of the car I’m driving. As someone that rarely changes settings, this provides a good baseline setup for all games I race in.
Calibrate your Hardware
Once your wheel is set up, you can open F1 23 itself. But before worrying about driving feeling, buttons and settings, you have to calibrate your wheel. This will ensure there are no dead zones in your pedal travel and that your wheel isn’t overly sensitive.
In the F1 23 Control Settings page, select the Calibration tab and hit the ‘Test Buttons’ map – this is usually F3. A graph will appear showing the real-time position of each pedal and the wheel. When you aren’t putting an pressure into the pedals or wheel, you want each graph to register 0. When you are at full range, the graph must reflect that fact.
If this isn’t happening in either case, you must apply deadzone and saturation accordingly. More deadzone means a pedal or wheel will require more input for the game to register. Additional saturation will ensure an input reaches its full range in-game.
F1 23 T300RS Wheel Settings
Deadzones eliminated and inputs all ready to go, it’s time to work out the best force feedback wheel settings in F1 23 for a Thrustmaster T300RS. Lucky for you, I have spent some time working out the best settings and feel very comfortable with my current setup.
To adjust your FFB settings, go to the vibration & force feedback tab on the control settings screen. Here, you will find all the slider necessary to alter your feeling behind the wheel. Many of the settings sliders on this page will come down to personal preference. However, there are a few key points that will have a major impact on the way your wheel reacts.
The vibration & FFB strength is certainly the big one. As someone that likes a weighty feel, I have this setting relatively high – at 110% – but feel free to lower it if it’s too much during longer stints. Elsewhere, I completely remove any damper setting as it makes the wheel feel vague at times.
Vibration & Force Feedback | On |
Vibration & Force Feedback Strength | 110% |
On Track Effects | 50% (Personal Preference) |
Rumble Strip Effects | 50% (Personal Preference) |
Off Track Effects | 50% (Personal Preference) |
Wheel Damper | 0% |
Maximum Wheel Rotation (F1 & F2) | 360° |
Maximum Wheel Rotation (Supercars) | 900° |
For wheel rotation, I keep this low as there’s no reason an F1 car should require a lot of lock. Small steering inputs are what it’s all about. 360° for the wheel rotation works well in F1 cars. But for the supercars in F1 World, max that setting out to 900° for the most realistic experience. This represents a rotation and a half in each direction, which is what most road cars run.
As for the effects sliders, it’s all down to personal taste. If you enjoy rattling your arms to pieces on kerbs, bump up the appropriate slider. If dust and a lack of grip aren’t enough to tell you’ve left the track surface, rise the off track effects slider. For those that want even the smoothest of tracks to feel like Sebring, max out the on track effects.
The Perfect Button Map
Now that you’re feeling comfortable with the forces behind the wheel, it’s important to have all of the game’s features at your disposal. Be it the MFD HUD element which is important in working out one’s mid-race strategy or the all-important Overtake and DRS buttons. You must work out the best button placement for you.
As a rule of thumb however, the overtake and DRS buttons are often needed on corner exit. So make sure to place these mappings near your natural thumb placement when driving. This will allow you to reach the button as early as possible.
Additional buttons you may want to map can range from brake bias and differential adjustments to camera direction toggles. This is up to personal preference so you must work out what works best for you in the heat of battle.
What do you make of our Thrustmaster T300RS wheel settings in F1 23? Tell us on Twitter at @OverTake_gg or in the comments down below!
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