Need help with pedal mounting

[Solidjake]

Evening guys. Working with a setup in a small NYC apartment is tough. My Fanatec CSW 2.5 is mounted onto my desk so it's extremely stable. For my chair I removed the wheels and installed gliders so the chair is now stable on the carpet. As for my pedals, they have been slightly problematic since I installed the load cells brake pedals.

I did put in heavy duty velco to the pedals/wooden floor but under hard braking the front end of the pedals are starting to come up even with the tape holding it down.

Not really looking to drill into the floor since I rent but if it's two holes that I can plug then I can do it. I was thinking a metal bracket on the front of the pedal platform that would be held down into the floor. Any input would be great. I would be willing to spend up to $100 for a mount. Thanks

 

[Emery]

Mount the pedals to a largish sheet of wood or metal and then your chair can act as a weight on top of the sheet goods.

 

[gnoshme]

1) What Emery said. Ideally a piece of 3/4" thick hardwood ply because you'll want to drill holes for where the mount holes are on the pedal board (under where your heels sit) then have bolts going UP through the board. If you do it like that without any more effort though you'll have the bolt heads trashing the floor so you'll either want to add rubber feet (meh) or better, drill out a larger hole about half way through the wood for the nut head to settle into. You'll still want to put something on the bottom of the wood to create some friction and so it doesn't trash the hardwood floor but if you counter sink the bolts height isn't really important. I ran these pedals with just these 2 bolts without any issue. I only added bolts through the actual individual pedal assemblies when I added tactile transducers because they vibrated, but the setup is solid with just that bolt. If you get creative you could add a block to the back of the wood to line up / lock in with part of your chair for added stability to lock it all in place, or you could just put the wood under the carpet, and the chair on top like you do now if that's not slipping. If you have to put this away when you're not playing you could hang it all on the wall. Advantage is if you can integrate chair mount onto this then it's really stable.

2) More compact and this is what I would do because the wall is right there. Create a wooden L shape platform that the pedals are mounted to with countersunk holes again like above. Use triangles of wood on the sides or struts so it's really rigid, because the L not collapsing on itself is what makes this work. Put a wooden strip across the back at the top that's the same thickness as the wooden trim on your wall so when pushed against the wall the back board is upright and solid. Make sure that it's high enough that there's a gap between the wall trim and the cross board for those cables to go through. The risk is that there's nothing there but drywall which could be a problem. You could just push it in so make the wood across the back is wider than the rest of the build. There will definitely be a stud at the corner on the right, and should be one to the left at 18"? but if you tap the wall and check for something solid (or use a stud finder), then go that far that would be ideal. See crappy drawing attached. You could alternatively do this with two strong L shaped steel brackets attached to the pedals, and the same kind of wooden strut across the back for the same purpose. In terms of height, if the point of upper contact with the wall is higher than the vector that you are exerting on the pedals then it won't pivot up at your heels but I'd go to the height of the pedals + 2 inches just because. If you REALLY want it to be secure, and don't care if your pedals are always out, screw through the cross piece at the top into studs. Hell of a lot easier to patch drywall when you move out than hardwood. In terms of materials you could build the L and sides again with 3/4" hardwood ply, or even from the 18" pine project boards you can buy. The triangles at the sides make it really solid. The strip across the back could be a strip of pine because the load is so evenly spread across the wall.. it's not going to flex.

'

EDIT:: Would be stronger if the triangle was INSIDE the L like below, not screwed to the SIDE of the L like above. Now strength is in the wood, not the screws holding the wood. You could also use metal brackets to enforce the L as long as they are strong enough.

 

[640er]

Take a look at my posting @ https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...ulling-away-when-i-brake.177041/#post-3099898

Maybe that gives you some input

 

[thepharcyde]

No more nails

 

[Solidjake]

Mount the pedals to a largish sheet of wood or metal and then your chair can act as a weight on top of the sheet goods.

1) What Emery said. Ideally a piece of 3/4" thick hardwood ply because you'll want to drill holes for where the mount holes are on the pedal board (under where your heels sit) then have bolts going UP through the board.

Take a look at my posting
Maybe that gives you some input

Guys, I can't thank you enough for the responses and thank you gnoshme for the very very detailed post. I will go to home depot and pick up some plywood and do what 640er did in his thread. That is the perfect solution. I have some tough plastic that I can lay under the plywood so it won't damage the floor. I'll get a wide enough piece so it will accommodate the entire width of the chair. Will keep you guys posted! Thanks

 

[640er]

I did not explicitly mention it in the other thread, but of course the pedals are screwed to the plate. So neither the chair nor the pedals can move in any direction and after a few days of testing I can confirm, that it is stable enough :thumbs up:

A little improvement I made after the post was, to drill a hole where the USB cable is attached to the load cell. Then you are able to (more easily) plug in the cable even when the pedals are already mounted. I often forgot to plug it in before mounting and afterwards it was a bit of a fiddling.

 

[dud]

I fixed my pedals to a strong piece of pipe that extends toward the chair. Then I put padding so that the chair presses the pipe down. Works well, just requires precise positioning of the chair.

 

[Solidjake]

I did not explicitly mention it in the other thread, but of course the pedals are screwed to the plate. So neither the chair nor the pedals can move in any direction and after a few days of testing I can confirm, that it is stable enough :thumbs up:

A little improvement I made after the post was, to drill a hole where the USB cable is attached to the load cell. Then you are able to (more easily) plug in the cable even when the pedals are already mounted. I often forgot to plug it in before mounting and afterwards it was a bit of a fiddling.

The thickness you had for the wood was 2cm (.75 inches)? What kind of bolt/screw did you use to attached to the pedals? Appreciate all of the info. I will do it so the chair will be fully over the wood.

 

[Solidjake]

I fixed my pedals to a strong piece of pipe that extends toward the chair. Then I put padding so that the chair presses the pipe down. Works well, just requires precise positioning of the chair.

Thanks dud. I will take a look at that as well if the wood does not cut it

 

[640er]

The thickness you had for the wood was 2cm (.75 inches)? What kind of bolt/screw did you use to attached to the pedals? Appreciate all of the info. I will do it so the chair will be fully over the wood.

Yes it is 2cm / 0,78 inches high. Screw is about 3cm long, fixed with washer and nut (M6 I guess)