Logitech G29 / G920 – The Best Sim Racing Beginner Wheel

Logitech G29 and G920.jpg
Logitech’s G29 and G920 wheel and pedal sets have proven for years to be a perfect option for both beginners and enthusiasts on a budget.

Sim racing hardware runs the risk of becoming unnecessarily costly for beginners and those on a budget. Pictures you often see online of massive triple-screen, direct drive and load cell-based systems look awesome, but it’s more than what most people will need, especially as new sim racers.

Both the PlayStation compatible G29 and its Xbox-friendly G920 counterpart are known as great options for the more limited world of console sim racing hardware, but they make great options for PC as well. For beginners or those on a budget, cost and reliability are two primary considerations when choosing a wheel. Logitech’s G29 and G920 offerings check both of those boxes nicely.

2020 was a tough year for finding used sim racing gear, but things seem to have calmed down in 2021. It’s not hard to find a used Logitech wheel in most areas now, with prices sometimes dropping 30% below MSRP. And for those looking for to buy new, major retailers frequently have stock of new G29 and G920 sets.

These Logitech wheel and pedal sets aren’t known for incorporating the most coveted sim gear technology, but they are becoming synonymous with dependability. The nearly 9,000 reviews left on Amazon.com have averaged to 4.7 out of 5 stars. That figure is extremely impressive and speaks to not only the quality of the product, but also the reliability. Logitech’s more recent G923 set uses improved technology but comes with a ~$120USD premium versus the outgoing models, so the G29 and G920 remain a leading option for your first sim racing wheel.

Direct drive wheels give a more detailed level of force feedback than the gear driven force feedback in the Logitech wheelbases, and the load cell used with higher end brake pedals use is superior to the potentiometer utilized by Logitech, but an important thing for new sim racers to remember is that higher-end sim gear won’t immediately lead to better lap times. In fact, many of the fastest sim racers you’ll encounter race with the same technology used in the G29 and G920. Upgrading one’s sim racing gear should be viewed as improving immersion rather than speed.

The G29 and G920 may be aimed toward newer or inexperienced sim racers, but the wheel sets have several impressive features, including clamping arms for mounting the wheelbase onto a desk, a clutch pedal, upgrade compatibility for adding an H-pattern shifter, carpet grips for the pedal set, leather wrapped steering wheel, threaded holes for mounting the wheelbase or pedals to a cockpit, and RPM lights on the G29 wheel.


Buy a Logitech G29 bundle from Amazon for $291.50
Buy a Logitech G920 bundle from Amazon for $304,43
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Logitech is not the only company that makes budget-friendly sim racing gear, of course. Thrustmaster and Fanatec also have great offerings for entry level sim racers, though either company will be a more costly option versus Logitech. There are also racing wheels on the market that come in cheaper than Logitech’s sets, but there is typically a noticeable drop in quality. Logitech seems to have found a healthy balance of price and quality with the G29 and G920 models.

For the new sim racer or those on a budget, maximizing dependability while minimizing costs is key. Logitech’s G29 and G920 are excellent wheel and pedal sets for this demographic. Major retailers and even the used hardware market seem to have consistent stock of either, so these seem like the perfect option as a starter or budget-friendly wheel in the world of sim racing.
About author
Mike Smith
I have been obsessed with sim racing and racing games since the 1980's. My first taste of live auto racing was in 1988, and I couldn't get enough ever since. Lead writer for RaceDepartment, and owner of SimRacing604 and its YouTube channel. Favourite sims include Assetto Corsa Competizione, Assetto Corsa, rFactor 2, Automobilista 2, DiRT Rally 2 - On Twitter as @simracing604

Comments

Logitech G2x wheels: awesomely robust.
The pedals on the other hand... wow, the pots are kinda naff, as many people have said already above.
However, some comments have implied that their pedals/shifters (both of which use pots) have lasted for ages. Just to be clear - have any of you got a well-used set of pedals or a shifter that HASN'T needed regular cleaning on the pots?
Maybe I'm just lucky, but I haven't need to clean pedals in 3 years, they just work.
 
thrustmasters t150 and tmx are miles better than this, the logitech wheels are garbage ffb

i have owned both
 
Premium
I’m selling mine if anyone’s interested?! G29 with other without a g27 shifter, plus pedals. Barely used, great first-time wheel for anyone dipping their toes into the world of simracing. Willing to sell cheaply to fellow RD members! PM for details!
 
Premium
Agree, I have a G920 for 1,5 year, have let do an upgrade for 75 euro on the pedals ,the week point in the set , the are great now, and still enjoying it, totally recommend it ;) Great wheel and for the mony:thumbsup::)
 
Premium
I have heard everyone always says the Logitech G29/920 wheel and pedals are great for beginners, but I am so curious, that if you are not a professional making money/a living driving a sim rig, what the heck is the difference, especially if you might not have all the cash in the world to spend on over priced wheel and pedals?
 
I have heard everyone always says the Logitech G29/920 wheel and pedals are great for beginners, but I am so curious, that if you are not a professional making money/a living driving a sim rig, what the heck is the difference, especially if you might not have all the cash in the world to spend on over priced wheel and pedals?
It means people with lack of experience who don't know what they want from their sim experience. A professional has a better idea what they want than a complete beginner, so perhaps they have a higher standard for gear that will satisfy them; same thing with people who absolutely must have manual steering up to 20Nm be accurate. :D
 
Wonder why the article didn't refer to the Logitech G923 Trueforce wheel as well?
 
Premium
Given that Logitech wheels here in AU are priced around $600 dollars from the major retailers I personally wouldn't recommend them to anyone when a T300 is available for around the same price and gives a far superior experience.

I'd go as far as to say the Logitech gear being the go-to-gear for the new sim-racers may have been detrimental to the hobby over the last few years, People shouldn't accept paying large sums for crappy gear.
 
Given that Logitech wheels here in AU are priced around $600 dollars from the major retailers I personally wouldn't recommend them to anyone when a T300 is available for around the same price and gives a far superior experience.

I'd go as far as to say the Logitech gear being the go-to-gear for the new sim-racers may have been detrimental to the hobby over the last few years, People shouldn't accept paying large sums for crappy gear.
I've got to agree with this now when production quality for the G-series keeps getting worse and worse, price keeps going up and features/gear keeps getting removed. Needless to say I'm not gonna really recommend the G29/G920 but the G25/27 are good.

10 years ago you could buy a G27 + pedals + shifter for 250eur, now you'll need to pay at least 310eur for the same G29 package, with much worse reliability, less buttons and arguably a less usable brake pedal from what I've heard. A T300RS GTE here will go cheapest for 340eur or so new, with the better pedals. The only shame is that TM doesn't sell a very cheap shifter alternative like Logitech does, theirs being around 180 - 190EUR here.

600AUD is about 370EUR, for reference

It's probably better now to invest in a T300RS, but I wouldn't knock an used G27 set for 150eur or something like that. Any not completely abused G27 that's under 5 years old should definitely last at least 5 more years, more than enough for someone to know if they're into sims or not. Question is how will it be going forward.
 
in my country is the 2nd best option the dfgt still around 70 bucks cheaper , right now have one with a loadcell brake mod (wip)
 
I switched to a Fanatec set a year ago, but I really liked my G29 and used it for several years. I still have it, even if I don't think I'll use it again, but you never know.

I had a G27 before that, and it was fine, lasted me a long time, but the G29 has more buttons and that's very useful on modern sims.
 
I'll echo the people saying the G27 is incredibly reliable. However, I really dislike how it only has six buttons on the wheel rim itself--having to set things like the gmotor pit menu controls on the shifter and reach over to set up a pitstop in games like Rf1/AMS/Race07/Raceroom has caused a few accidents over the years. What I'd give for the buttons of the G29 or G920...
 
My G27 is pushing its 11-th year, still works and looks like new, I don't know how that's possible, considering that it has thousands of hours of use.
Haven't cleaned any pots, heck, my daughter spilled a whole glass of apricot juice all over the pedals, which got inside - didn't bother to clean it for more than an year. Did the cleaning when I ordered the GTEYE springs and had to open the case to install them. :D
 
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Premium
I am still using daily my G25 and i have never been disapointed.
Two years ago i purchased the fanatec v3 pedals, which are for sure better as the stock pedals for the immersion, but which doesnt make me quicker.

I ordered a csl DD.

My opinion on the G25 is that it belongs to the pantheon of simracing. It had a huge impact , because it has been the first wheel with "pro" feature at that time.
It is easy to be critical, but a wheel at that price with clutch, metal parts shifter manuel and sequential, many buttons and a nice ffb, it was just unbelievable when it came on the market.

It is just one of the most influential piece of gear ever made for the guys of my generation (54 years old).

I can understand that younger simracers laugh at it, but they have to understand that such wheel came on the market when there was no smartphone, very limited computer, online race with 50k modem,... it was bomb !
 
I have heard everyone always says the Logitech G29/920 wheel and pedals are great for beginners, but I am so curious, that if you are not a professional making money/a living driving a sim rig, what the heck is the difference, especially if you might not have all the cash in the world to spend on over priced wheel and pedals?
For me it had to do with the fact that I'm driving my road car almost on a daily basis and did some driver training for security reasons.
So I know how a real brake, steering, "ffb" at the limit feel and when you then go back to your Logitech wheel you feel that the dead zone on the center is absolutely awful, the throttle has about 1/3 of the pedal throw, the clutch is lacking some *flupp* point where it becomes easier to press after and:

The brake is pressure based in reality. You press the brake pads against the disk. The pedal basically stops completely after a few cm and then you just increase the pressure without the pedal moving anymore.
The Logitech brake pedal is "distance" based so you press in a linear resistance against it until the maximum and you have to remember the "position" to be precise.

With a loadcell brake the input is pressure based. My clubsport v3 brake pedal has about 2cm pedal travel distance before it's not moving anymore. Pressing harder gives more input though.

The human body can control static pressure a lot better than distance. But apart from that, it's simply about realism.
 
I have heard everyone always says the Logitech G29/920 wheel and pedals are great for beginners, but I am so curious, that if you are not a professional making money/a living driving a sim rig, what the heck is the difference, especially if you might not have all the cash in the world to spend on over priced wheel and pedals?
Most people don't make any money at sim racing. Just like most golfers don't make money playing golf, or most people playing soccer at any given moment aren't being paid to do it. Doesn't stop any of them buying pricey equipment.

The logitech stuff is on the cheaper end of the scale for sim gear while not being junk. Mostly because it's mass produced and the higher end gear has smaller production runs (as well as being better). Its up to the individual to justify the cost of the stuff they buy.
 
I would say as far as the wheels go, you dont need anything above the so called "beginner" level.

There is no real car steering rack in the world that will feel like those DD wheels people drool so much over. The steering wheel is usually still connected to gears, or mechanical bits.

The strength is another myth. Unless you want to simulate an 80s F1 steering strength, or some really professional drift car, no car would need the levels of force and speed i see regularly displayed by those wheels. The whole "self centering" thing is a myth, the only cars that have such forces of wheel centering are hardcore drift machines, and even those the steering is very light, because the last thing anybody needs when trying to drive such a thing is to have to "fight" the wheel.

I see advantages in DD wheels, or nice belt ones in terms of silence of use, less "notchiness", realiability if you are brute with it, and more flexibility immersion wise, but dont fool yourselves thinking you will be faster, or it will feel more "real" if you buy a more expensive one.
 
I would say as far as the wheels go, you dont need anything above the so called "beginner" level.

There is no real car steering rack in the world that will feel like those DD wheels people drool so much over. The steering wheel is usually still connected to gears, or mechanical bits.

The strength is another myth. Unless you want to simulate an 80s F1 steering strength, or some really professional drift car, no car would need the levels of force and speed i see regularly displayed by those wheels. The whole "self centering" thing is a myth, the only cars that have such forces of wheel centering are hardcore drift machines, and even those the steering is very light, because the last thing anybody needs when trying to drive such a thing is to have to "fight" the wheel.

I see advantages in DD wheels, or nice belt ones in terms of silence of use, less "notchiness", realiability if you are brute with it, and more flexibility immersion wise, but dont fool yourselves thinking you will be faster, or it will feel more "real" if you buy a more expensive one.
Lots of incorrect stuff in this post. You should go and measure tolerances in the steering assembly, measure the mid-corner steering torques and measure the wheel acceleration, average velocity and maximum velocity in road, drift and racecars if you're going to write things like that. I'm sure you haven't done any of that otherwise you wouldn't be writing those things.

Typical mid-corner steering torque in a powersteered roadcar might be 5Nm for the light ones. Unassisted roadcars can range from 10Nm to 20Nm. The NSX was considered to have "very light steering" and it's something like 9Nm mid-corner on the tires I made for it, at speeds where the powersteering is not assisting. Typical steering torques for racecars are somewhat higher, albeit not necessarily by very much in GT type cars, but I think mid-corner unassisted 30Nm+ is achievable in some Formula and P cars.

In terms of steering acceleration and speed, I haven't seen an actual measurement with sensors but with a visual method, even relatively mild accelerations can be 10x compared to low-end wheel capabilities and still several times more compared to Fanatec belt wheels.

A G27 will accelerate basically 10 times slower than it should and it'll cap the speed at under half or even 1/3 of the required rotation speed, which means that adequately catching even a relatively mild drift in an understeery roadcar is impossible to achieve with the wheel alone. This is with cars using standard steering geometry and powersteering, not "hardcore drift machines". I think a G27 under load is not even physically capable of spinning fast enough to go lock-to-lock as fast as any real steering system can.

Definitely if you are already good at driving you will gradually improve going from a low-end wheel to a DD wheel, but it's not a magic bullet. It kind of is a magic bullet when it comes to racing very sketchy cars or drifting. While I've seen people on G27 beat DD wheel users in drifting unrealistic cars with huge inertia and so on, the more realistic the car becomes the more advantage the DDW has. After some point it's not possible to really compensate for the wheel capabilities with skill any more because the car is performing outside of the wheel's envelope. The only thing you can do is an inputs adjustment for less yaw acceleration.

Of course it will be "more real", especially if it has enough torque to directly match the real car's steering torques. Then you can program the powersteering using the real curves and achieve wheel performance closely mimicking the actual car. Any perceivable differences on telemetry seem to come more from software differences than anything.

Do *you* "need" anything above a low end wheel? That's up to you; probably not.

Are there benefits? Yes, and they're not just "immersion" benefits. Literally no car's design functions even remotely correctly on anything but high-end wheels because the real car was designed with a similarly performing system in mind. It is just a happy coincidence that car behavior is mild enough to facilitate driving with extremely gimped control instruments.
 

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Shifting method

  • I use whatever the car has in real life*

  • I always use paddleshift

  • I always use sequential

  • I always use H-shifter

  • Something else, please explain


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