3D Printed Simucube 2 E-Stop Mount

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The holes are not align vertically on the housing, Unless you are willing drill on it, you will need some sort of mount. There is another simpler one on Thingiverse, but the cable will get in the way if you want it pointing upward or downward. So I just put together this.

Update:
Sorry, there are actually 2 other mounts on Thingiverse, the one I talked about was for horizontal mount only. The other one require taking the switch apart before it can be moved.
 
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Just bolting from inside is not good enough?

Aren’t the holes M4 or M5? I don’t have T-nuts that size, only M8 and I don’t wanna drill into the housing. No cutting saw or small sized aluminum plate either so either I print something or try to buy an aluminum plate that’s perfectly sized so I only have to drill the M4/5 and M8 holes.
 
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  • Deleted member 197115

 
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  • Deleted member 197115

I have different e-stop that doesn't feature proper size holes and without access to 3D printer my solution was two corner brackets and velcro at contact points.
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Aren’t the holes M4 or M5? I don’t have T-nuts that size, only M8 and I don’t wanna drill into the housing. No cutting saw or small sized aluminum plate either so either I print something or try to buy an aluminum plate that’s perfectly sized so I only have to drill the M4/5 and M8 holes.

I’ll upload an M8 version tonight. Hope you will love it.
 
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There is also different design that allows mounting on either side of profile, wide or narrow.
 
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There is also different design that allows mounting on either side of profile, wide or narrow.

Yes, this is the horizontal version I was talking about. It cannot be used if you want the cable go toward the top or bottom, and distance between the mounting holes make it not suitable to mount across different slots (You may be OK if you don't mind the switch mounted at an angle).
 
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Having it mounted in the inside of the profile works well. I know many people who have done this. I've never accidentally hit the button with my leg. In fact I have to do it purposefully, but I definitely don't have to reach for anything with my hands which I think is safer.

My box came with holes that fit the 40mm offset perfectly such that it is mounted perfectly square without drilling as shown in the link that Andrew posted. However, drilling a hole in plastic is very easy and then you could use any size bolt.

I've seen these mounted all over the place. I'm not sure why, but different strokes.
 
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I needed to order some profile pieces today from my aluminum distributor anyway before my SC2 comes this week so I went ahead and ordered easy insert M5 T-nuts and I have some 30mm and various shorter lengths m5 bolts already. Hopefully I have an m5 size that is long enough since I couldn’t find dimensions for the emergency stop anywhere online. I’ll share how it worked (or didn’t lol) after it gets here.
the holes are M4 looks like I’m drilling or printing. Oh well, I didn’t buy an Ender 3 just so it can sit on my desk.
 
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Since I got my P1 chassis, I've accumulated a pile of M4, M5, M6, M8 bolts in different lengths with socket heads, beveled heads, round tops along with an assortment of T-nuts, washers, nuts, lock nuts and various other connectors. It just happens over time, at least if you like to tinker with things.

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Having it mounted in the inside of the profile works well. I know many people who have done this. I've never accidentally hit the button with my leg. In fact I have to do it purposefully, but I definitely don't have to reach for anything with my hands which I think is safer.

My box came with holes that fit the 40mm offset perfectly such that it is mounted perfectly square without drilling as shown in the link that Andrew posted. However, drilling a hole in plastic is very easy and then you could use any size bolt.

I've seen these mounted all over the place. I'm not sure why, but different strokes.

I found it extremely hard to drill perfectly positioned holes without a drill press. Since I already have access to a 3D printer. Designing a mount with Fusion 360 only took me 10 minutes, printing it took 4 hours, but I don’t have to man it while it print. I found it much easier and there is no risk of damaging the switch in the process.
 
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I found it extremely hard to drill perfectly positioned holes without a drill press. Since I already have access to a 3D printer. Designing a mount with Fusion 360 only took me 10 minutes, printing it took 4 hours, but I don’t have to man it while it print. I found it much easier and there is no risk of damaging the switch in the process.

You take the cover off the switch and pull the wires to the side before you drill it. Use tape if it makes you more comfortable.
You needed to take the cover off to access inside the box anyway.

If you measure where the holes should go, you just need to indent the plastic with a small phillips head screwdriver or just use some masking tape and mark the place for the holes with a pen or pencil. Then you can drill a tiny pilot hole and increase in size with larger bits. until you have what you need. If you start with a very small drill bit, it is very easy to stay centered where you want to be. If the holes are slightly out of perfection, just drill the holes a bit oversized and use a washer and tighten it perfectly straight.

There is no need for a drill press. The plastic is very thin. Drilling at an angle doesn't matter especially if you are a tiny bit oversized.

That whole operation should take less than 5 minutes.

However, I understand this is entirely a comfort zone issue, so kudos for finding a solution you are comfortable with!

Here is a little tool that you might even want for your 3D printed parts if it turns out you need a larger hole than you gave it.
It makes very short work of plastic and you can even just push it into plastic and start turning it to make a hole.
A tool like would let anyone make two small 4 or 5mm holes in a heartbeat.

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I got this little tool since my RC racing day. It’s really handy for making mounting holes on the RC car body. But there must be something wrong with my skill. I always manage to made the holes so slightly off :(

By the way, 3D printed part are mostly hollow. Rework with this type of tool usually don’t work. So the design have to be 100% perfect.
 
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