About to start designing my first sim rig. Few questions to get started.

Hello everybody!

I've been reading around here for a while, trying to learn as much as I could about designing a rig, as well as getting some inspiration and ideas and it's been a really interesting read. There are really talented individuals in here!
So I feel like I'm ready to start throwing virtual 40x40's around an empty space to start forming a first version of what I want to build.

My questions are:
1. I have seen a few guides already, but what would be the proper first steps of designing a rig considering I've a G27 kit (I will reverse mount the pedals) and I intend to initially have a single screen setup, but will go three screens later on?

2. Solidworks? Fusion 360? Inventor? something else? Currently, out of all CAD softwares, I'm most proficient with Solidworks, but I've seen guides using some software(s) specifically designed for profile assemblies. Would that be the best and most efficient way to work on this?

3. Right now I'm not sure which seat I will get, but most likely I will get one from a salvage auto parts dealer, in that case, I'm curious which one I should be choosing and how it attaches to the aluminum profile rig.
I've seen that people get Sparco seats for their rigs but it might not be the cost effective option for me considering I'd like to keep the costs..... in control :D.

I'm sure I'll have many other questions as I work on this project, but for now I think it'll work.

I'll appreciate your effort in sharing your knowledge and experience.

Thank you!
 
Would Maycad still be good if I intend to get profiles elsewhere (not motedis)?
I'm asking mostly because the connecting parts aren't the same. Wouldn't that be a problem?
 
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Decide already if tactile / bass shakers are going to be a part of your rig in the long run. That has a major impact on seat choice, and how things are mounted. If you're going to use shakers you'll want to design isolators into the overall design.. e.g. between the seat and frame, and maybe between the pedalboard and frame. If you design with that possibility in mind now, it'll save you a headache later.

On seat choice If you scan the last few pages of the massive TACTILE thread here you'll see that the guy who knows most about this recommends a fiberglass seat and a specific shaker setup. If you've already moved forward with a padded gaming seat or a seat from a real car that means you have to go a different way.

I personally like my real car seat. Mine is from a Mitsubishi Eclipse. The trick is to get a passenger seat (usually better condition) and to pull both the seat and the seat rail. The seat rail is typically attached to the car by 4 bolts, so if you just build your rig to use those same mounting points you get all of the native seat adjustment features for free.

If you do go with real car seat, and are interested in tactile, here's how I set mine up, including more information on isolators.

https://www.vanagony.com/2020/03/22...a-normal-car-seat-in-a-driving-sim-chair-rig/
 
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Decide already if tactile / bass shakers are going to be a part of your rig in the long run. That has a major impact on seat choice, and how things are mounted. If you're going to use shakers you'll want to design isolators into the overall design.. e.g. between the seat and frame, and maybe between the pedalboard and frame. If you design with that possibility in mind now, it'll save you a headache later.

On seat choice If you scan the last few pages of the massive TACTILE thread here you'll see that the guy who knows most about this recommends a fiberglass seat and a specific shaker setup. If you've already moved forward with a padded gaming seat or a seat from a real car that means you have to go a different way.

I personally like my real car seat. Mine is from a Mitsubishi Eclipse. The trick is to get a passenger seat (usually better condition) and to pull both the seat and the seat rail. The seat rail is typically attached to the car by 4 bolts, so if you just build your rig to use those same mounting points you get all of the native seat adjustment features for free.

If you do go with real car seat, and are interested in tactile, here's how I set mine up, including more information on isolators.

https://www.vanagony.com/2020/03/22...a-normal-car-seat-in-a-driving-sim-chair-rig/
This sounds really interesting.
So I understand that if shakers are added, then they are attached to the free objects, in our case, the seat, pedals etc, and isolated from the rest of the chassis through dampeners of some sort?
So we have the shakers, amplifiers, isolation system.. what else?
What is the added cost for all the needed parts for having shakers on the rig? You actually got me intrigued.
Can you share how your whole setup looks like and how it's designed?
Thanks for the valuable info!!
 
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This sounds really interesting.
So I understand that if shakers are added, then they are attached to the free objects, in our case, the seat, pedals etc, and isolated from the rest of the chassis through dampeners of some sort?
So we have the shakers, amplifiers, isolation system.. what else?
What is the added cost for all the needed parts for having shakers on the rig? You actually got me intrigued.
Can you share how your whole setup looks like and how it's designed?
Thanks for the valuable info!!

Sure. There is no typical install but there are typical elements. If you really want to get into this I advise you read the last 10 pages of the other thread at a minimum. So many people do this badly!

Here is the basic theory, then I'll explain what I have.

1) Telemetry vs Game audio
Many games (even some console games like Forza) push live feeds of telemetry information. It's often sent to e.g. a phone that displays a dashboard with speedo / revs etc. but the payload of data is significant. Speed, tire pressure, suspension, revs etc. For this kind of game you can use telemetry software (more in a sec). For other games or just to be generic, you use a split of the game audio, and peel off the lower frequencies like you would if you were attaching a bass woofer.

2) Software for tactile.
Simhub is amazing, and freemium. If you buy a license you get a few more features, and it's really affordable (and the right thing to do). This is where things get sophisticated. You use a specific sound card just for the purpose of tactile feedback on your rig. a 5.1 sound card can send different signals to 6 shakers. 7.1 can handle up to 8. So that gives the ability to create zones of spacers on your rig that do specific things. Rear left suspension compressed on the car? Send a "thump" to the appropriate shaker. Want to feel speed? Send a growing wave of sound to specific shakers. There is no limit. Even if you only have 1 shaker it's still worth doing this over game audio.

3) Bass shakers (transducers) & Exciters
Bass transducers are like the driver of a bass woofer speaker without the paper cone. They react to signals down on the low end of the spectrum, just like a bass shaker. Most amps, and typical speakers (even bass speakers) are designed to handle down to 20hz. A really good shaker can handle 5hz. If you read that thread you'll see the opinion that being able to create 5hz-200hz in your rig is ideal. Many shakers are more in the 20-120 range, so going hardcore gets more expensive amps and more expensive shakers. I haven't gone there yet.

Exciters are slightly different. They are also like the driver of a speaker but they are designed to stick to something and turn IT into a speaker. Exciters are good for higher frequencies, so if you're going for strong high frequencies these are good tool. They are also ideal if you have a fiberglass seat as:

1) they stick to the back and transmit vibration really well
2) a guy who is really into tactile has done a bunch of research on this, and if you mimick his setup you can benefit from using his effect settings
3) it can be a cheap way to go if you have a fiberglass seat. These things are cheap, so if you're using 6 of them to get the "detail" of the effects, and just laying out serious money for one beefy shaker, that can be good.

If you look at all the people using shakers, you'll probably find about half of them use Buttkicker products, and of those a vast number will use the buttkicker Gamer 2, which is a single shaker that bolts to your chair. It's the most talked about shaker and it's better than nothing but for the same money you can do better. Again.. that thread is important to digest somewhat.

4) Isolation
You kinda got that theory already. It's super important. The more you are limiting what is shaking the more efficient the setup. In the early days of tactile and software there as a while where the "4 corners" setup was considered the ultimate experience.. but just sticking a shaker at each corner and configuring the software for 4 corners is just so inefficient. Great in theory, but without isolation it's a waste of energy.

I use stuff like these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0X2UCF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5) Amps
Also big discussions around this. Each shaker needs an amp, although of course 2 can be run off the same stereo amp. Personally I got obsessed with finding the ultimate CHEAP amp, and the only amps I use cost $4 each on ebay and they rock. They wouldn't work for a 5hz bad boy shaker, but they are fine.

https://www.vanagony.com/buttkicker-amps-bass-shaker-cheap-amp-alternatives-driving-chair-sim/

I am NOT in the majority here. A lot of people use cheap stereo amps in a case from Amazon or eBay. I tried one.. and didn't like it and it cost more than all my other amps put together. People getting more serious buy rack gear amps.

6) Headphone Mixer
It's not essential but it really is useful. Berringer 4 and 6 channel headphone amps and is a useful "mixing desk" for your tactile setup. Not essential, but nice. Makes it easier to dial stuff in, and also adds the ability to easily inject game audio into all your shakers in stereo for the games that don't have tactile.

My setup is not normal by any means because I am an odd duck in that I find myself to be a driving enthusiast more than a racing enthusiast, so I spend much of my chair time playing Forza Horizon. Most people don't invest serious money to do that, but it brings me joy. With that in mind, my setup is fairly specific.

- Xbox Sending telemetry info to a laptop
- Laptop running Simhub
- Simhub sending sounds out through external 7.1 soundcard
- Soundcard outputs going to Headphone mixer
- Mixer sending signals to amps
- Amps driving shakers

- Game sound split into small mixing desk
- Android Car stereo (on rig) sending signal to mixing desk for music and hands free phone
- Mixing desk sends signal into headphone mixer through two mono sub bass preamps to remove high frequencies so I can blend into specific shakers ( feeling the car stereo music drastically increases immersion)
- Headphone mixer feeding game audio into laptop (for streaming)
- Microphone on boom into mixing desk.. along to laptop (for streaming)
- Headphones from mixing desk for gameplay

In terms of shakers, it's what you saw on that link I sent you for the chair.. so that's 1 buttkicker at my upper back / neck. 2 Aurasounds under the chair mounts, and another one mounted to the chair. I then have two Aurasounds under my pedalboard (that is mounted to the rig with isolators). They are configured in stereo but pedal setups are so rigid the stereo effect isn't strong.. always the problem with pedal board shakers.

The result is pretty damn good. With the family locked in the house all the time I've had to dial down the volume a lot and it's actually been fine. A different challenge trying to dial in nuances rather than full on kick in the face. My rig is about 15-120hz with the Buttkicker Mini at my neck giving the lowest response.

I've gone through a bunch of stuff on the way to getting here including exciters and smaller shakers but I blew them up trying to make them compete. If you're going down this path good to know that 1 just isn't enough, but ok to start with 1.. just know you'll probably buy more, so have a strategy where the first one you buy later gets a match, so you can add stereo with two shakers that are the same. i started with the Buttkicker and honestly I don't love it enough for $90 to buy another one and have struggled with where to put it, although it was pretty damn decent on the pedal boards in mono.

I think that's about all I've got!
 
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@gnoshme Wow huge thanks man. I appreciate your detailed reply.

If you really want to get into this I advise you read the last 10 pages of the other thread at a minimum.
You mean this thread?
 
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@gnoshme Wow huge thanks man. I appreciate your detailed reply.


You mean this thread?
You're welcome.. this one:

https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...-general-discussion-hardware-software.137631/
 
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After reading through it, I think that my course of action is to design a shaker-ready rig, and get them shakers later on. It looks like the whole shaker deal is gonna be costly. :D
So having that in mind, can you point me in the right direction to design the rig accordingly?
There's the usual, non-tactile, 8020 rig look which I kind of managed to wrap my head around, and I'm pretty sure I can design such a rig with ease.
What are the differences I should be most aware of while designing a shaker-ready rig?

So far my questions and what I've concluded are:
  • Attempt to make it more rigid, using larger profiles, i.e 40x80 instead of 40x40 in some places? Or even larger profile family like 45xXX?
  • Design the frame so it accommodates the isolating parts, which means the attachment points need to be lower if I want the seat/pedals to end up being in a given height?
  • Design the 'active' (isolated) part of the frame to have "handles" that can hold shakers on them? As I see it, there's the base frame ('under' the isolation) and there's a sub-frame 'above' the isolation that the seat or pedals attach to it? Or am I wrong and the seat/pedals attach directly to isolating parts?
  • There are probably more things I didn't think about, would love your input.
Thanks a lot.
 
Upvote 0
After reading through it, I think that my course of action is to design a shaker-ready rig, and get them shakers later on. It looks like the whole shaker deal is gonna be costly. :D
So having that in mind, can you point me in the right direction to design the rig accordingly?
There's the usual, non-tactile, 8020 rig look which I kind of managed to wrap my head around, and I'm pretty sure I can design such a rig with ease.
What are the differences I should be most aware of while designing a shaker-ready rig?

So far my questions and what I've concluded are:
  • Attempt to make it more rigid, using larger profiles, i.e 40x80 instead of 40x40 in some places? Or even larger profile family like 45xXX?
  • Design the frame so it accommodates the isolating parts, which means the attachment points need to be lower if I want the seat/pedals to end up being in a given height?
  • Design the 'active' (isolated) part of the frame to have "handles" that can hold shakers on them? As I see it, there's the base frame ('under' the isolation) and there's a sub-frame 'above' the isolation that the seat or pedals attach to it? Or am I wrong and the seat/pedals attach directly to isolating parts?
  • There are probably more things I didn't think about, would love your input.
Thanks a lot.
There is no need for 45mm profiles and fewer connectors are available in that size compared to the 40mm series.
 
Upvote 0
After reading through it, I think that my course of action is to design a shaker-ready rig, and get them shakers later on. It looks like the whole shaker deal is gonna be costly. :D
So having that in mind, can you point me in the right direction to design the rig accordingly?
There's the usual, non-tactile, 8020 rig look which I kind of managed to wrap my head around, and I'm pretty sure I can design such a rig with ease.
What are the differences I should be most aware of while designing a shaker-ready rig?

So far my questions and what I've concluded are:
  • Attempt to make it more rigid, using larger profiles, i.e 40x80 instead of 40x40 in some places? Or even larger profile family like 45xXX?
  • Design the frame so it accommodates the isolating parts, which means the attachment points need to be lower if I want the seat/pedals to end up being in a given height?
  • Design the 'active' (isolated) part of the frame to have "handles" that can hold shakers on them? As I see it, there's the base frame ('under' the isolation) and there's a sub-frame 'above' the isolation that the seat or pedals attach to it? Or am I wrong and the seat/pedals attach directly to isolating parts?
  • There are probably more things I didn't think about, would love your input.
Thanks a lot.

The easiest way to design for tactile is to have things like pedalboard and seat mounted with bolts that could be replaced by isolators, and you're OK with adding 3/4". Dead easy if you design things so you are e.g. mounting down onto the 80/20 frame. They way I showed you that I mounted the 2 stereo units at the back of my seat needs more thought.. you're really building out a platform there, rather than mounting your seat to rails.
 
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The easiest way to design for tactile is to have things like pedalboard and seat mounted with bolts that could be replaced by isolators, and you're OK with adding 3/4". Dead easy if you design things so you are e.g. mounting down onto the 80/20 frame. They way I showed you that I mounted the 2 stereo units at the back of my seat needs more thought.. you're really building out a platform there, rather than mounting your seat to rails.

Thanks for your reply.
This leaves me with another question, you say bolts that could be replaced by isolators; What does it mean and what should I pay attention to?
What if I "blindly" use normal bolts to attach the seat/pedalboard?
I mean, for now, from what it looks like to me (and my untrained eye when it comes to designing a sim rig), I'm designing something that doesn't look much different from a normal non-tactile frame.
I'm taking inspiration from a GT1-Evo and it doesn't look like I'm introducing much of a change to it except sturdier shifter holder arm, additional base frame profile for strength and better fitting (attempting a deck) for a G27 wheel.

I appreciate your input so far!
 
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I'm kinda stuck in MayCAD. How can I place a profile at an angle so it's like in the drawing attached?
 

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Here is my design. MAY CAD is the programm used.

( Yes you can use angles btw, there is a button for it. I'm no expert though lol just got the program yesterday )


Seperate monitor stand for ease of adjustablity, could fit anything on there it will hold.
Pedaltray adjustable with angled brackets/plates. ( not shown )
Mouseplate, could adjust size so can fit shifter etc 2.
Buttonbox bracket
Wheelbase, angle can be adjusted if fitted with the 180 swivlers as well ( not shown )
Seat position, could add the same stuff as for the pedalsplate so you can get a even more leanback GT3 position.
All profiles in annodized black and will be fitted with slotcovers all round, pick ya colours :)
Metal plates Laser Cut will be added in, cant show m in this program. Same as some custom plates for shakers etc.

I calculated pricings all incl. from local suppliers just shy of 600 euro. Saves a lot of money making it meself instead of getting it from a certain supplier. You just dont get a badge with it or any of the fancy custom overpriced plates they make. ( which are nice btw ! )

1587406863657.png
 
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Hi @Sincx !

( Yes you can use angles btw, there is a button for it. I'm no expert though lol just got the program yesterday )

Which button exactly? The only button I found was was "Angle extr." :
1587421201390.png

which creates a profile that is tilted in an angle but it's base is flush to the neighboring extrusion which results in an angle-cut profile, something like this:
1587421315260.png

I'm interested in how did you do this with your setup, specifically the extrusions that hold the pedals plate.
You mind showing me what you did exactly? This is driving me crazy lol I already ported it to Solidworks and kept going there..

Thanks!
 
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Yes thats the button alright, I basicly did a angled piece like showing in your picture and only made that like 10 cm or so. Then added a new piece which continues on that angled piece and made that the lenght I wanted. Then deleted the first section and slided the one with the desired length into place. Should be a setting somewhere to adjust snapping or moving range from increments of 5mm to 1 mm instead as well. Cant recall where that is exactly though, cant check right now.
 
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basicly did a angled piece like showing in your picture and only made that like 10 cm or so. Then added a new piece which continues on that angled piece and made that the lenght I wanted. Then deleted the first section and slided the one with the desired length into place.
How would that translate into actually building it though? Even if you cut the metal at the right angle, how do you connect the bits? (Or maybe I'm missing the point entirely...)
 
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