An improvement from G27 that will not break my hand?

[dukenukem3d]

The problem with the G27 is two:

1) The dead zone is very noticeable. I mean, when im on a straight line, I feel literally nothing, it's like im floating. There has to be a minimum of turning to feel anything. Big inmersion killer.

2) The rotation angle lock is a joke. You can easily get past it. When I get some noob driving a racecar, and all he has done before is to drive a real life 900 degree car, they tend to oversteer a lot and they get past the 540 rotation lock or whatever lock it's set for the race car, so yeah, it's a problem. Even I can get past it.

If these 2 problems were fixed I wouldn't even buy a new wheel. I like the leather feel, the simple look, the pedals are metallic and nice (maybe a bit too small...). The shifter is plasticky but what you do, I barely use it anyway.

So yeah, what can I buy that solves those too?

Im not looking forward to getting my wrist broken by some direct drive monster so some intermediate option would do.

I saw the T300RS GT but I was told the pedals are cheap plastic and the wheel gets too warm.

 

[dud]

The T300 are good wheels when you add a fan to them.

The plastic pedals are unusable, IMHO.

 

[dukenukem3d]

The T300 are good wheels when you add a fan to them.

The plastic pedals are unusable, IMHO.

Is there kit that has a good wheel + pedal pack but will not be dangerous to use?

 

[Salvatore Sirignano]

Why would you get your wrist broken? If you were to buy a direct drive you can scale the strength, so much so that you could make it considerably weaker than a G27.

 

[Jan Larsen]

1) The dead zone is very noticeable. I mean, when im on a straight line, I feel literally nothing, it's like im floating. There has to be a minimum of turning to feel anything. Big inmersion killer.

I have, and have had, a G27 basically since it was released all them years ago and deadzone is very much game depended. Some games have no issue for me, like Iracing or rfactor (1&2) while others, such as AC has a lot. I eliminated some by tinkering with settings, but yeah, when its present it renders the game unplayable. My example is getting a little more deadzone in all games these days but that (finally) age showing through.

 

[dukenukem3d]

I have, and have had, a G27 basically since it was released all them years ago and deadzone is very much game depended. Some games have no issue for me, like Iracing or rfactor (1&2) while others, such as AC has a lot. I eliminated some by tinkering with settings, but yeah, when its present it renders the game unplayable. My example is getting a little more deadzone in all games these days but that (finally) age showing through.

In F1 games its also terrible. Going in a straight line: absolutely no rumble or anything, so its like you float. In rfactor only with realfeel plugin I can get a decent feel.

 

[dukenukem3d]

Why would you get your wrist broken? If you were to buy a direct drive you can scale the strength, so much so that you could make it considerably weaker than a G27.

Im worried that the wheel malfunctions, or you set a wrong setting, and you **** yourself up. See:

Also every game is a different software interacting with the wheel, it can go wrong fast.

 

[gnoshme]

Im worried that the wheel malfunctions, or you set a wrong setting, and you **** yourself up. See:

Also every game is a different software interacting with the wheel, it can go wrong fast.

This is my wheel and my video. While I've been incredibly unhappy with how Fanatec dealt with support on not one, but TWO wheels destroyed by the combination of settings (drift and wheel sensitivity), my position is:

- it's decent gear. It just sucks if you need support. Don't expect things to happen quickly or to your satisfaction.
- if you want shifter and ebrake, Fanatec CSL is as cheap as Thrustmaster stuff when you add it all up, and it's better
- if I had updated firmware this probably wouldn't have happened, so I'm partly responsible
- having said that.. if a wheel base has enough torque to break the wheel that is attached under ANY circumstances, then the collar is badly designed and engineered.

 

[SergiuBT]

This is my wheel and my video. While I've been incredibly unhappy with how Fanatec dealt with support on not one, but TWO wheels destroyed by the combination of settings (drift and wheel sensitivity), my position is:

- it's decent gear. It just sucks if you need support. Don't expect things to happen quickly or to your satisfaction.
- if you want shifter and ebrake, Fanatec CSL is as cheap as Thrustmaster stuff when you add it all up, and it's better
- if I had updated firmware this probably wouldn't have happened, so I'm partly responsible
- having said that.. if a wheel base has enough torque to break the wheel that is attached under ANY circumstances, then the collar is badly designed and engineered.

I have updated my csw 2.5 to 356 drivers only to use fanalabs. Firmware for base got installed but for motor not. When i opened acc almost twisted my arm. Now i use the non beta driver whit respective firmware for base and motor. U need to check that if u have problems.

 

[SergiuBT]

The problem with the G27 is two:

1) The dead zone is very noticeable. I mean, when im on a straight line, I feel literally nothing, it's like im floating. There has to be a minimum of turning to feel anything. Big inmersion killer.

2) The rotation angle lock is a joke. You can easily get past it. When I get some noob driving a racecar, and all he has done before is to drive a real life 900 degree car, they tend to oversteer a lot and they get past the 540 rotation lock or whatever lock it's set for the race car, so yeah, it's a problem. Even I can get past it.

If these 2 problems were fixed I wouldn't even buy a new wheel. I like the leather feel, the simple look, the pedals are metallic and nice (maybe a bit too small...). The shifter is plasticky but what you do, I barely use it anyway.

So yeah, what can I buy that solves those too?

Im not looking forward to getting my wrist broken by some direct drive monster so some intermediate option would do.

I saw the T300RS GT but I was told the pedals are cheap plastic and the wheel gets too warm.

The t300rs gt it's a good wheel if u dont drive long sesions or rally games its get warm and u have a chance of failure. The pedals that come whit the gt are ok, its not different from the g27 pedals and whit conical mod the brake its better. If u say that u dont like strong ffb u can buy t300, but i recomand fanatec csl elite because its better in any aspect that a t300 but more expensive.

 

[dukenukem3d]

The t300rs gt it's a good wheel if u dont drive long sesions or rally games its get warm and u have a chance of failure.

Sounds like a bad joke.

 

[manc0ntr0]

The t300rs gt it's a good wheel if u dont drive long sesions or rally games its get warm and u have a chance of failure.

No

 

[smasha]

Logitech ,when you think about it have the best lifespan by a country mile of the mass produced wheels,Thrustmaster and Fanatec aren’t in the same ballpark.

g25’s and g27‘s have lifespans of 10 plus years as well as being much cheaper.