And some build details. Please note this all is just freestyle build without any tough "how to" make it right. It's pretty solid. And in test build though, for now. But works fine.
Have got an idea to move backwards the wheel base itself. This will alow to place the monitor way much closer then conventionally. For that the following is made:
Haven't tested it there. So don't know actually.
One note about Asetto Corsa. After the EMC is configed, and FFB profile is set in game, have got to reboot the game once again. And do that every time you'll change the FFB settings in a game. )
P.S. EMC works "plug&play" with Iracing. Also tested with RaceOn7. Fine. Project cars have got some issue on just determing the wheel axis, but FFB is also "plug&play".
Figured out that, if the pulley be placed on the steering column shaft, just beyond the wheel itself, the FFB DIY wheel build, becomes a lot easier thing to be made. The connection with encoder then can go like this.
For now, as it have got to be checked with separate motor base, and be connected with column by means of cardan shaft, some welding works required, to make the know how coupler, fot it.
currently I'm also building a diy wheel. Great inspiration ... very thanks!
but I need to work with Rfactor2.
I use Leonardo, 3x BTS7960B, Omron encoder, motor ZY 1020, PS 12V ca. 80A
I do not want to use the belt......
I power mine also from 12V and 12.5A. But the voltage and coils resistance is a point when stalled. That's the factor that gives the stall current amps for the driver. MY1025, is ~0,28ohms and with 12V thats quite allright for the two drivers in parallel to be cool. That'll be only 43A of stall current there. If with 24v - 85A. (A=V/R)
But the motor gets warm up any way. So also take a note on it's cooling. The best option is like 'dat.
Figured out the joint without welding. Huh. Left is to the base shaft, and right to cardan. Should make minor outer size reduction of the nut. Outer is 13mm, should be 12mm.