On straight lines, the wheel is just dead, I get no information about the asphalt, no vibration at all so it feels as if im floating. Only when im going really fast when the camera sharts shaking I get some input, but the first 3 gears on the ASR Mclaren MP4 for example that I just tried on Montecarlo 1966 (im testing for the first time just bought the game) the wheel is like I said, doing nothing on straight lines. I would like some sort of vibration to trick my brain into believing im connected to a solid and not just floating. What settings should I be using for the g27? im just using the defaults. I tried raising the "Car specific FBB mult" and set it to 4.00 and the wheel started derping out moving left and right automatically so I set it back where it was at 1.00.
Bad deadzone on G27
- Thread starter Momoracer
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- deadzone g27 logitech
Try rasing the Overall Effects Strength in the Logitech Profiler to 105 to 107%
Both the Logitech G25 (owner) and G27 are known for their "Center Deadzone". I tested my G25 with an app created for iRacing which shows the percentage of center deadzone. My G25 tested at "8" and my friend who owns a G27 tested at "17". G27 is well known for very bad deadzone! A wheel with many more hours of usage will also increase this deadzone.
Example: In my ingame "Options/Controls for my G25 i set the FFB Minimum Torque to "8" and my friend set his G27 to the FFB Minimum Torque to "17". Note: If you exhibit wheel shaking /vibrations when driving slow in a straight line or stopped then begin reducing your FFB Minimum Torque as it might be set too high.
NOTE: For best "Raw" FFB input information set your "FFB Smoothing" to "0". Increase this setting if you have too much wheel shaking/vibrations and you already tried reducing the FFB Minimum Torque to no avail.
Example: In my ingame "Options/Controls for my G25 i set the FFB Minimum Torque to "8" and my friend set his G27 to the FFB Minimum Torque to "17". Note: If you exhibit wheel shaking /vibrations when driving slow in a straight line or stopped then begin reducing your FFB Minimum Torque as it might be set too high.
NOTE: For best "Raw" FFB input information set your "FFB Smoothing" to "0". Increase this setting if you have too much wheel shaking/vibrations and you already tried reducing the FFB Minimum Torque to no avail.
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Not that familiar with rF2 but when I raced a bit about 2 months ago it was quite nice!
Raise the "minimum ffb" in the ingame options until the deadzone goes away. It won't get perfect but definitely good!
I have smoothing at 4-6 depending on how aggressive the kerbs on each track are.
Profiler 100%, ingame ffb strength 100%, minimum force at 18%.
Then I adjust the car specific multiplier until the wheel feels good on straights
Raise the "minimum ffb" in the ingame options until the deadzone goes away. It won't get perfect but definitely good!
I have smoothing at 4-6 depending on how aggressive the kerbs on each track are.
Profiler 100%, ingame ffb strength 100%, minimum force at 18%.
Then I adjust the car specific multiplier until the wheel feels good on straights
Pretty much what I was going to say. Have your smoothing as close to 0 as you can without the shaking.
I personally run 11.5 for FFB minimum torque, but personal preference for strength. Just avoid clipping.
I barely touch the Car specific unless a vehicles FFB feels too weak or too powerful. Once again avoid clipping.
Deadzone is inbuilt "feature" of the 10 years old Logitech tech used in G27. The reason it's there is so that those dual FFB engines in G27 would not work against each other. There is no way to get rid of it, but raising minimum force from rF2 controller settings to around 5-10% will help to reduce the perception of dead zone a bit.
A friend tested his G27 dead zone with "wheel check" and needed to use a minimum force of "17".
A new G25 has a far less deadzone and my tests revealed to use "6" but now after heavy usage over the years i now need to use a "8"'.
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Clipping is when a signal is too great to fit within the scale of it's measurement.
If your strength is too high you will be missing a lot of the feel of intensity of strength. Too strong and the FFB motors will be working at 100% at all times.
My G27 does this, too, but not all the time: sometimes it feels perfect. It's usually in the middle of a race or practice that it will suddenly develop this problem. I'll try the settings suggested and see if they help.
Okay, I'm an idiot. I was accidently hitting the F1 key when reaching for the esc key, which was turning on steering help.
I had previously had problems with rf1 and rf2 not setting vehicle specific steering rotation with the logitech profiler, but that hasn't been an issue lately.
Okay, I'm an idiot. I was accidently hitting the F1 key when reaching for the esc key, which was turning on steering help.
I had previously had problems with rf1 and rf2 not setting vehicle specific steering rotation with the logitech profiler, but that hasn't been an issue lately.
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