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Bleeding Simtag 2 pedal setup?
- Thread starter Nick wilkinson
- Start date
Bleed from the Wilwood slave cylinder.
Reorient it vertical before bleeding. Remove the pressure sensor. Pump the brake. Look for bubbles. If no bubbles, top off fluid in tube and master reservoir. Reattach sensor.
It's a bad design. They should use a T (with bleed nipple) before the pressure transducer.[a modification which makes it easier to bleed]. I ended up selling mine and making my own based on the Tilton 850 and silicon fluid.
Reorient it vertical before bleeding. Remove the pressure sensor. Pump the brake. Look for bubbles. If no bubbles, top off fluid in tube and master reservoir. Reattach sensor.
It's a bad design. They should use a T (with bleed nipple) before the pressure transducer.[a modification which makes it easier to bleed]. I ended up selling mine and making my own based on the Tilton 850 and silicon fluid.
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stigs2cousin
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After some research there´s only one solution I can come up with:
(and it´s a royal PITA, so I think Simtag dropped the ball here
)
If it was my problem I´d replace the brake hose from slave cylinder to pressure sensor with a T junction with bleed nipple.
You´d probably still have to detach the slave cylinder to achieve that the bleed nipple is the highest point of the system.( and fixate it somehow so you can work the bleed nipple)
I´ve bled mountain bike, motorcycle and (track used) car brakes, the latter was easyest because of Stahlbus speed bleeders. But these things are expensive.
Let´s hope that Simtag answers your mail and there is a solution that we didn´t see.
MFG Carsten
(and it´s a royal PITA, so I think Simtag dropped the ball here
)If it was my problem I´d replace the brake hose from slave cylinder to pressure sensor with a T junction with bleed nipple.
You´d probably still have to detach the slave cylinder to achieve that the bleed nipple is the highest point of the system.( and fixate it somehow so you can work the bleed nipple)
I´ve bled mountain bike, motorcycle and (track used) car brakes, the latter was easyest because of Stahlbus speed bleeders. But these things are expensive
.Let´s hope that Simtag answers your mail and there is a solution that we didn´t see.
MFG Carsten
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Same situation is on 3 pedal option on the side of slave cylinder connected to the pressure sensor... also missing bleeding nipple, as 2 master/slave cylinders are not connected ... problem is the same!
I have another issue ... when racing in ACC sometimes I am pressing break pedals as strong i can when i want cars to reduce the speed .. its mental thing .... this making that rubbers (or even better feeling belleville spring washers) are breaking on parts and then I am having oil leaking as well.... Does anyone know if there is solution to limit break pedal rotation physically like there is for clutch and throttle pedal?
I have another issue ... when racing in ACC sometimes I am pressing break pedals as strong i can when i want cars to reduce the speed .. its mental thing .... this making that rubbers (or even better feeling belleville spring washers) are breaking on parts and then I am having oil leaking as well.... Does anyone know if there is solution to limit break pedal rotation physically like there is for clutch and throttle pedal?
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Mate did u have any luck with these pedals? I’ve had them about a year now, today all of a sudden the complete oil tank has emptied the pedal have no oil in them, the leak is coming from the cylinder with the rubber brake pressure
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Hi Layton,
Still zero help from Simtag, I have had a missed call from them so I’ll see where that goes this week. The cylinder you are having trouble with…I have noticed that the rod that the rubbers sit over is threaded both ends, if you remove all rubbers and then make sure that you turn it clockwise into the cylinder as it has a habit of coming loose. If this doesn’t make sense, send me a photo of where the leak is coming from. Thanks,
Nick
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Yes the rod your talking about just keeps spinning, it does not lock up on the cylinder end, I’m not sure if this is how it’s meant to be, I have spoke with SimTag this morning they suspect the cylinder has failed, there’s is an update kit for these pedals releasing in March which changes the cylinder and a few other things…I’m sending the pedals back to SimTag this week for repair,
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