Botton problems using non-standard wheel on T300

[124BC]

Hi all,

I bought a 3D printed hub adapter to put a Momo wheel on my T300 wheelbase. This is the type of adapter that just mounts the wheel directly to the base, without transferring over the button box. Now I get phantom button pushes, even though the button box is not connected and I have removed all mappings except the two buttons on the base (which work in the Thrustmaster config app). It's a bit irritating, as the phantom button presses replicate the functions assigned to those two buttons.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Stephen

 

[NeoGrotesk]

I'm not at all familiar with the T300, but how does the normal steering wheel connect to the base? Is there anything in your new setup that could mess up the ground (some metal on the contacts or something compressing a wire somewhere)?

I once had a pinched cable on one of my wheels and it did all sorts of strange things with button presses until I found it.

 

[blekenbleu]

I get phantom button pushes, even though the button box is not connected

If I understand correctly, your base now has unterminated wires
which previously were connected to a wheel's button box.
Another term for such wires is "antennas", and there may be enough
ambient electromagnetic energy present to provoke noise which sufficiently
resembles button signals, which are after all transitions between voltage levels.
Unplugging those wires, if there is indeed a plug, at the wheelbase logic board is one tactic.
Alternatively, plug terminations to that wheel connector which pull button signals towards their unpressed signal level.

 

[124BC]

Thank you both. The base connects to the wheel via a PS2 (old mouse type) connector through the hub. I had assumed that having the pins open (i.e. no connection to the wheel) would basically replicate the open state of non-pressed buttons. The plastic hub adapter should also not be grounding anything.

 

[blekenbleu]

I had assumed that having the pins open (i.e. no connection to the wheel) would basically replicate the open state of non-pressed buttons.

That may be correct; I did not research schematics, but pullup resistors or other signal line terminations may be in the wheel.

 

[NeoGrotesk]

Thank you both. The base connects to the wheel via a PS2 (old mouse type) connector through the hub. I had assumed that having the pins open (i.e. no connection to the wheel) would basically replicate the open state of non-pressed buttons. The plastic hub adapter should also not be grounding anything.

Hmmm... I would assume the same. Very strange. Have you reattached the old wheel to check that the issue doesn't still happen and it wasn't just a coincidence that it appeared when you swapped the wheel? (Long shot I know!)