I've watched some fast guy going around in Mugello and realized that my braking distance is much longer. Same car, 100% braking force, my speed even 3-7 km/s slower, and at the first turn, I have to brake just before the 50m sign, while those guys brake far beyond that. How on Earth? What else has influence on braking distance in setup?
Braking distance
- Thread starter Zoltan76
- Start date
BhZ
Simdriver for Singularity Racing
If i had to guess, i'd say it's the way those guys brake. The idea is to brake hard at first and decrease it when you are close to the turn, otherwise you encounter massive understeer (most of the times) and you feel like braking more, which obviously slow you down even more. If you could provide a video of you driving around Mugello...that would be great.
Suspension setup can have an effect. Recently I noticed that in Monza T1. I set front ride height on the GT2 Ferrari too low. Thus the springs had not enough room to work, tires lost grip and wheels locked up more easily. I had to brake much sooner to work around that.
However I guess in your case the faster guy is braking more into the turn, easing off the brake when starting to turn in.
However I guess in your case the faster guy is braking more into the turn, easing off the brake when starting to turn in.
PicoBp
#26 | HSRC - Banzaaaiii Touring Car Crew
ABS leads to longer braking distances by itself. The best advice would be to practice, practice and practice, and get used to manipulating the brake on the edge of tyre grip without it. The same technique will be useful with ABS on as well, as you can maximize the braking effect without electronics kicking in and lowering brake pressure to a safe level, which will be a tad lower than what you could achieve by manually balancing it.
If you have more questions: click on the create a thread button and ask
That's what we have a forum for
BhZ
Simdriver for Singularity Racing
I often do actually. Anyway this was the kind of question that doesn't bother me much and so i haven't asked. Last time i asked something someone said it was a stupid question. No admin corrected him.If you have more questions: click on the create a thread button and ask
Please do link me to that thread as we don't allow that. Although we can't read each and every post on this forum of course. Under each post is a "report" button that inform a moderator when you click it.
Keith Gregg
CAUTION - SLOW VEHICLE
This has been one of my concerns for a long time too...is the in-game brake gamma tool setting a matter of personal taste?...or best to have a higher gamma?...ie...needing more foot pressure for lower braking (or is a linear line better?)...another thing I worry about is the brake bias...what difference does having the brakes more forward or backward make?...i'm guessing it makes a big difference depending on RWD or FWD etc..
Any how...cheers lads.
Any how...cheers lads.
I think it's a matter of taste. I've tried messing with it before and had somewhat positive results in a few cars I was having trouble with. But in the end I went back to default and tried to learn my pedal instead of changing the way the input worked. That way I can apply it to all sims equally with no need to mess with settings in each one.
you are watching a delayed image, that's why they seem to brake way later.
Other than that, a setup with more mecanical grip and downforce will allowe to brrake later, also braking into the apex allowes for later braking
Other than that, a setup with more mecanical grip and downforce will allowe to brrake later, also braking into the apex allowes for later braking
PicoBp
#26 | HSRC - Banzaaaiii Touring Car Crew
The gamma is purely for personal taste. With pedals that have shorter travel or less resistance, you can work around difficulties with increasing gamma. For example, with my stock G27 pedals I used a gamma of around 1.5-2.0. But once I fitted a GTEye progressive brake spring, I pulled it down to a fully linear setting, as I had the necessary feedback from the pedal to properly manipulate the brake on the lower half of the input. With my current T3PA setup with conical brake mod I actually found anything not linear to be distracting.
Regarding brake bias, it's all about the balance of the car and the characteristics of the track. During braking, you'll have more load on the front tyres, which equals to more grip potential as well. On a track like Monza, or any track where you have low speed turns after a long straight, a more forward bias can help to achieve shorter braking distances. You'll heat up your tyres more though, which will adversely affect your cornering capabilities, and you have to be careful to properly balance the car before turn in, or you'll face a lot of understeer. Put the bias too front and the rear might want to catch on you during braking, or even the fronts can get over their edge of grip and you'll just fly off the track in a straight line.
A general rule is that RWD can appreciate a more forward bias, while FWD more to the rear, due to the driven axle and their overall weight balance characteristics. Moving the bias to the rear can also be better for trail braking. Give it too much though and you'll be struggling with oversteer and longer than optimal braking distances due to the rear end loosing grip or blocking.
Keith Gregg
CAUTION - SLOW VEHICLE
Very informative...many thanksThe gamma is purely for personal taste. With pedals that have shorter travel or less resistance, you can work around difficulties with increasing gamma. For example, with my stock G27 pedals I used a gamma of around 1.5-2.0. But once I fitted a GTEye progressive brake spring, I pulled it down to a fully linear setting, as I had the necessary feedback from the pedal to properly manipulate the brake on the lower half of the input. With my current T3PA setup with conical brake mod I actually found anything not linear to be distracting.
Regarding brake bias, it's all about the balance of the car and the characteristics of the track. During braking, you'll have more load on the front tyres, which equals to more grip potential as well. On a track like Monza, or any track where you have low speed turns after a long straight, a more forward bias can help to achieve shorter braking distances. You'll heat up your tyres more though, which will adversely affect your cornering capabilities, and you have to be careful to properly balance the car before turn in, or you'll face a lot of understeer. Put the bias too front and the rear might want to catch on you during braking, or even the fronts can get over their edge of grip and you'll just fly off the track in a straight line.
A general rule is that RWD can appreciate a more forward bias, while FWD more to the rear, due to the driven axle and their overall weight balance characteristics. Moving the bias to the rear can also be better for trail braking. Give it too much though and you'll be struggling with oversteer and longer than optimal braking distances due to the rear end loosing grip or blocking.
