Build: VR Button Box

[Tom_Hampton]

I've finally starting to build this thing in earnest. Below is my sketch layout for the final product. The idea is that its the same general size as the center console in a car, and the plan is for it to be placed in the same general physical location relative to the driver seat/steering wheel. I've laid this out as separate panels, and tried to make every panel layout unique so that there are easy landmarks. Note the bottom panel is blank, as it is down at H-shifter level. But, I'm considering putting some general Simhub adjustments there to be able to tweak the strength of some effects, and Simhub Master volume....while in-car.

I've built up the panels, I cut them out of 1/8" lexan. I have a Bodnar BBI-64 to use as the controller for the whole thing.

Last night I spent some time soldering leads onto the first panel. My plan is to wire each of these to double row 0.100" headers (see below) in a standard fashion for plugging into the BBI-64. So I bought this kit of crimp-pins and various header sizes:

Amazon.com: KINCREA Dupont Connector Kit —620 Pcs Crimp Housing Connector Kit with Dupont Wire Connectors-A Set of Male and Female 2.54 mm Dupont Connectors and Crimp Pins: Electronics

Amazon.com: KINCREA Dupont Connector Kit —620 Pcs Crimp Housing Connector Kit with Dupont Wire Connectors-A Set of Male and Female 2.54 mm Dupont Connectors and Crimp Pins: Electronics

www.amazon.com

Dual encoders use 5 inputs (inner L/R, outer L/R, push-button), plus GND wires = 2x5 female header.


Currently this prototype is just wood and hand drilled lexan. I have a roll of Carbon-fiber Vinyl which I intend to use to wrap the whole thing once I'm happy with it. I may have the final panels laser cut after I make any needed refinements.

I've already decided that a couple of things are too close to the side guards (brake bias, and a couple others. So, I'll probably widen the whole thing by 1-2" and respace everything to ensure a minimum clearance between everything.

The larger cockpit build is being done around the ergonomics of my real racecar (a 1990 Spec Miata). I have a spare set of miata pedals that I'm currently instrumenting with a 200 kg loadcell, and potentiometers for clutch/throttle. I also have a spare set of stalks and a ignition key...that I may wire up to another bodnar box.

Parts List

Single axis encoders with push. CTS288V232R161B2. Used for Brake Bias, and volume knobs.

288V232R161B2 CTS Electrocomponents | Sensors, Transducers | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. 288V232R161B2 – Rotary Encoder Mechanical 16 Quadrature (Incremental) Vertical from CTS Electrocomponents. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

Dual axis encoders with push. No part# per se, just a web link. Used for sway-bar, and wing adjustments.

Dual Concentric Rotary Encoder Kit — PropWash Simulation - Flight Sim Radios, Panels, GPS for X-plane and FSX

Our PWS Dual concentric rotary encoder kit includes the encoder with switch, circuit board, nut, washer, headers and knobs. Black or Grey knobs are included. Perfect addon for flight simulation.

www.propwashsim.com

Joystick, 4 way switch. Again no part #, just ebay listing.

AC 240V 5A 4NO 4NC Momentary 2.5mm Fixing Thread Joystick Switch T1C2 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for AC 240V 5A 4NO 4NC Momentary 2.5mm Fixing Thread Joystick Switch T1C2 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Raised Pushbutton switch (with LED). Ebay listing:

16mm Stainless Steel Momentary Push Button Switch with Yellow LED 845832027470 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 16mm Stainless Steel Momentary Push Button Switch with Yellow LED at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Flush pushbutton (with LED). Ebay listing:

AngelEye Led 16mm 12V Stainless Steel Round Momentary Push Button Switch 4Colors | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for AngelEye Led 16mm 12V Stainless Steel Round Momentary Push Button Switch 4Colors at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Various knobs. These shaft hole in these knobs were all about 0.010" too small for the CTS288 shaft. I drilled them out with a 1/4" drill bit to fit. Ebay listings:

2PCS AMPLIFIER KNOB 20x15.5mm Aluminum POTENTIOMETER VOLUME CONTROL Audio DIY | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2PCS AMPLIFIER KNOB 20x15.5mm Aluminum POTENTIOMETER VOLUME CONTROL Audio DIY at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

1PC Solid Aluminum Knob 15x15mm Audio Potentiometer Volume Control Amplifier DIY | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1PC Solid Aluminum Knob 15x15mm Audio Potentiometer Volume Control Amplifier DIY at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Black 25 x 15.5mm Aluminum 6mm Dia Rotary Control Potentiometer Cap Knob | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Black 25 x 15.5mm Aluminum 6mm Dia Rotary Control Potentiometer Cap Knob at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Brake Bias knob. Apex Sim Racing. I actully bought a different knob (that is 3d printed plastic), but Apex doesn't seem to sell it anymore. The closest is now billet machined (it looks nice, though twice the price):

Apex Sim Racing Billet Brake Bias Knob

Limited stock available Billet Aluminum Available in Anodized Black or Red Material: 6061 Billet Aluminum Total Diameter: 1.9" (48 mm) Interior Diameter: 38.5mm (Where Sticker Goes) Height: .78" (20mm) 2x m4 x 5mm grub screw Includes Apex + - Decal (see picture) Fits cts288 Encoder or any...

www.apexsimracing.com

Switches. I'm not happy with the action of the switches. So, I won't bother listing those for now. When I decide on a replacement, I'll update this with that part.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Very nice.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

Very nice.

Thanks. I've taken a lot of inspiration from your thread. Lots of good thoughts in there about finding things while blind. Your thread is actually what led me to RaceDepartment in the first place. I was googling VR Button Box designs, and found it (then of course I stumbled onto Mr. Latte's monster black hole of a thread).

I've also spent a lot of time sitting in my real vehicles with my eyes closed feeling around to see what works so well about real car dash layouts. When you start adding up all the functions in a standard automotive dash/steering wheel/column stalks....there's a LOT going on there. Somehow, we manage to find these easily, mostly without taking our eyes off the road.

Its always funny how layouts on paper can seem "perfect", and often (like this one) just a bit too small/cramped in real life. For whatever reason mine always seem to be too small in real life, never too big. Even when you print them out full scale...which I did several times. Ah well, that's what prototypes are for.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Try something, see what sticks and iterate.

I just down loaded a number of 3D knob STL's that I'm going to print just to see how they feel. Then I'll probably design my own based on what I like.

 

[RCHeliguy]

BTW I made the mistake of searching for "Apex Knob" on Amazon.... You have to know the direction that went. <sigh>

 

[Tom_Hampton]

BTW I made the mistake of searching for "Apex Knob" on Amazon.... You have to know the direction that went. <sigh>

Lol. Apex sim racing.

Apex Sim Racing Billet Brake Bias Knob

Limited stock available Billet Aluminum Available in Anodized Black or Red Material: 6061 Billet Aluminum Total Diameter: 1.9" (48 mm) Interior Diameter: 38.5mm (Where Sticker Goes) Height: .78" (20mm) 2x m4 x 5mm grub screw Includes Apex + - Decal (see picture) Fits cts288 Encoder or any...

www.apexsimracing.com

Although the one I have is 3d printed, not billet.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Are you using a resin printer?

I downloaded a brake bias knob from Thingaverse that might be a good starting point.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

Are you using a resin printer?

I downloaded a brake bias knob from Thingaverse that might be a good starting point.

Sorry. What meant was they used to sell a 3d printed version..whuch is what I bought. But, I don't see it in their store anymore, just the bullet one.

I don't have a 3d printer.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I just printed a brake bias knob someone else created and it's not bad, but I will design my own.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

Updated with parts and links.

 

[stigs2cousin]

I really like what your are doing there, especially taking your clues from the real world car

I used the same crimping tool for my own cockpit build
(just aplastik board with buttons, switches and encoders)
and am not to happy about he results.

The crimping seems ok, but the pins don´t fit to well into the casings.
When pusching them onto the Bodnar breakout board i had some "blanks" where the insert didn´t connect with the pin on the board because it was pusched out of the casing again.

Ill have to redo that soon, until then I just have to live with 20% of the buttons not working.

MFG Carsten

 

[Tom_Hampton]

I really like what your are doing there, especially taking your clues from the real world car

I used the same crimping tool for my own cockpit build
(just aplastik board with buttons, switches and encoders)
and am not to happy about he results.

The crimping seems ok, but the pins don´t fit to well into the casings.
When pusching them onto the Bodnar breakout board i had some "blanks" where the insert didn´t connect with the pin on the board because it was pusched out of the casing again.

Ill have to redo that soon, until then I just have to live with 20% of the buttons not working.

MFG Carsten

Yeah... Either the crimper or the housing aren't quite right. Its definately a little fiddly to get the pins fully seated and latched. "Almost" or "it looks seated" isn't good enough. The little latching tab has to engage properly, or they push out like you experienced.

It helps to have a set of dental picks/tools to push the pins in that last 0.01mm until the latching tab clicks into place.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

A little more wiring work....In car adjustment panel is fully wired.

Once I get it installed in the frame with the controller, I'll cut the wires to final length and cover them in "snake-skin". Then I'll crimp on the opposite ends.

The propwash encoders come with straight male headers, which I soldered on initially. When I test fit the first harness, the stackup was just a touch too tall...and interfered with the walls of the box. So, I desoldered those, and soldered on a double row of 90* header. It looks much neater now:

Incidently, on the topic of crimping these pins. I have this crimping tool:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0895LN7QS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A couple things make a big difference in getting the final crimped pins to fit into the housings.

1. Make sure to use the correct crimp. The dupont pins must be crimped with the inner crimp die---the smaller one. Slot #2 in the photo below.

2. Adjust the crimp tension, to ensure the crimp jaws fully close and crimp the pin completely. The tension adjust is circled in yellow.

Notice the bits circled in green? Those should just touch when the tension is correct and the jaws are fully closed. If they don't, then the pin will be too big to fit into the target housing.

3. When stripping the wire, its important to only strip enough to be caught by the pin crimp. If the end of the wire extends much beyond the crimping area (circled in red below) it will interfere with the retainer clip (noted by the arrow) that keeps the pins inside the housing.

The proper strip length is only about 1/8", which is what's shown below.

4. The retainer clip must be fully flush with the rest of the housing. This can be hard to "see", but its pretty easy to feel with a fingernail.

5. I found that the crimper has a tendancy to bend the pin as you clamp down. Its a pain to try and straighten the pins back out afterwards. However, if you support the pin with your finger while crimping it is much less likely to distort. The pins tend to bend down and slightly and in. So, I place my index finger to resist that bend. It doesn't really take much force to resist the bending.

With those tips, I had much better success at crimping and inserting the pins into the housings. It still helps to have a small crooked dental tool for the odd pin that won't quite seat. More often than anything that seems to be the result of a little bit of insulation that's caught on an edge.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I've had really good luck with this kit I got when I started with RC Helicopters.
I'm able to get good consistant crimps with it.

That said your crimper does look to be very high quality and it's possible that I had to learn how to make this work. I've just been using it for so many years that it is natural now.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

I think with any crimping system there's always a bit of a learning curve, and a certain amount of undocumented "process" involved. The dies on this crimper are very nice...much more than I was expecting for less than $20. I'm used to solid pins used in ms-38999 and Deutsch connectors from aerospace and industrial/automotive. We don't do much with stamped pins.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

So, I got the other two panels wired up. The Button Box pannel and the Radio Panel. Well....except for all the common wires. I ran out of black wire. More on the way.

I also experimented with putting on the carbon fiber vinyl. The first attempt wasn't great. But, I learned that ZERO surface imperfections is a requirement. So, I peeled off the first attempt, and used a razor blade to clean up all the edges. Then I sanded the whole thing with 220 grit, and finally wiped it down with a lint free cloth and alcohol.

I put the vinyl on leaving about 1/2" extra. Then cut the corners off, and wrapped it around the edges to the back side. Then I cut each hole into pie sections. Finally I used a heat gun to heat and stretch the vinyl and activate the adhesive.

I'm pretty happy with the result:

 

[Tom_Hampton]

I managed to get all the panels covered in the vinyl. Unfornately, I forgot to put the washers on the toggle switches. So, the vinyl tore when I tightened the nuts. Sign. Lesson learned for the next iteration. I'm really happy with how the vinyl came out. It looks very realistic in person.

 

[stigs2cousin]

Hy Tom,

since you are experienced in this field maybe you could help me out:

I´m looking for some pushbuttons for my DIY GT3 wheel kit from 3drap.

They should fit into an 7mm (+-) hole and have an tactile click.
The obvious answer "Knitter" is a little expensive for me, they are around 15 Euros each.( about 18 $ US.)

If you could name a brand or a source where I can find something like that that would be a great help.

Thanks in advance

MFG Carsten.

( BTW, took my cockpit apart today to mount my new wheelbase and your analysis of the crimping problem was spot on.
Well, it doesn´t fit the SC2 so I have to rebuild it anyway)

 

[Tom_Hampton]

What price are you looking to pay? The NKK MB2011 is an obvious choice, except that it requires a 9mm mounting hole, doable with a drill. Those run about $5 USD in small quantities here in the states. I see that Leo Bodnar is selling this for 11 Euros, which seems quite steep compared to US pricing.

 

[stigs2cousin]

Well,

for a good tactile click that would be in range. Much better than 18 $
I only need six of them.

Thank you,

MFG Carsten