Buttkicker Setup/advice

[SOLO59]

Hey guys,
I'm looking to further upgrade my sim cockpit. I'm currently looking into something that will further immerse me into my race sims.

I'm hoping the buttkicker can fulfill my needs.

I can only find them available on Richmotech site. They have the Buttkicker Gamer 2 and the Buttkicker Simulation Kit in stock.

So here's what I need some help with;

1. Buttkicker Gamer 2 or the Buttkicker Simulation Kit? I've read that the simulation kit is better. I don't use an office chair so, maybe the simulation kit?

2. What exactly is "extension mode" and "chassis mode" for? Cannot find a "straight" answer online? I'm only getting one buttkicker for now so which option will be best?

3. Isolators. Do these need to be mounted directly under my wooden base and wheel stand? My rig is on carpet. Are there any alternatives? Using the isolators under my rig would probably make my seating position higher! I have a perfectly good fixed seating position and don't want it any higher/lower.

3. Do I really need another sound card? I don't even use my current sound card. I plug in my headphones (both aux and USB turtle Beach headphones) or my speakers via aux into the available aux port on the top/front of my pc. So I guess I'm using the on board sound from my pc? And the sound card untouched? Or the other way around? Idk lol... Either way, on board sound or sound card is free/open! So another sound card is really necessary?

4. I'm using the Next level wheel stand for my wheel, shifter and pedals. I've mounted a car seat to a wooden base (I made myself), the wooden base and wheel stand are bolted together. With this setup (both wood and metal constructed), how should I mount the buttkicker? Does it have to be mounted right under my seat? Can I mount it anywhere on the wooden base (I'm thinking on the back of the wooden base). I've read that metal is a lot better for the buttkicker 's response. But wood should be fine?

After watching the Inside Sim Racing review on YouTube, they REALLY have me sold on this thing! Any advice to my questions above would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

 

[Mr Latte]

Thats a lot to cover.....

The Buttkicker differences I believe are the Gamer has its unique clamp mechanism while the Sim Kit doesn't and comes with 4 Buttkicker rubber isolators. Apart from that, I believe both are very similar.

These do however differ if looking at some specs compared to the Mini LFE model. The Mini LFE is intended for "Low Frequency Effects" and uses the more common 4ohm load. The Concert models are 2ohm load and I assume the Mini Concert is inside the Gamer unit also being 2ohm. The Concert series are marketed more for musical applications and official information states they are tuned to perform better around 40-80Hz. How much better or difference I cannot say or if it's mainly marketing blurb.

Some people report of felt differences with a Gamer compared to the Mini LFE units but I've not seen proper conclusive testing to determine all the factors if or how much one is really any better than the other for Simvibe usage. They won't feel the same at the same wattage as they are different ohm rated for a start. Some do believe the metal arm extrusion of the Gamer acts like a mechanical amplifier to give some degree of increased felt energy than a direct mounted unit.

The biggest downside with Buttkicker amplifiers is that they are mono and will only power a single unit. I always advise getting the Behringer inuke DSP1000 amplifier and if you want 1 or even 2 Mini LFE units. It may cost a bit more but you can power 2x units with this stereo amp. Additionally have better and increased amplification, advanced controls to tune each, units operation. Also another important aspect, these amplifiers, if you ever decide to upgrade will power the bigger Buttkickers like the BK Advance as well which you can't do with the options you are considering.

2,3,4
If you're on a wooden based floor then vibration will go into the floor and house/building. Isolators help prevent this. If you are on a concrete based floor then it won't be an issue. It is good however to isolate your seat or pedals as this then helps maintain the vibrations within them and not let them leak into the main frame of your build. Doing that will improve the felt energy of the unit quite a lot.

EM does not support all the effects like "Suspension Effects" as these require Left/Right units operating in stereo over CM mode. It is possible to use CM with only 2 units in stereo on the seat. If doing this, have them configured to be the front pair/green connection. EM mode is mono but allows specific units to have individual specific effects if desired. This would allow different effects in pedals/seat for instance but you won't get any sense of direction as stereo is not supported over EM.

You will just have to test and consider installation options,placement and methods. Wood may cause some unwanted reverb. Harder woods work better with tactile but MDF is commonly used and can be fine for feeling the vibrations.

It really takes trial and error to perhaps find the best solution.

Hope its some help

 

[SOLO59]

Thank you very much @Mr Latte! You gave me some very useful information. After reading your response, I did even more research, and now I know what I want to do.

I know I need vibration isolators. But I don't want to buy packs of isolators. I thought of using a rubber mat. I already have a long board that I can mount my entire rig onto it to separate it from my carpet. Before mounting said board to my rig, I'll put 1 maybe 2 layers of rubber mats in between the long board and my rig, this should help resist vibration. Thinking of using similar mats that are used under washing machines etc.....

I also think that a buttkicker is just too much power. I feel everything I need to feel from my wheel. And I just want some feeling, some feedback throughout my entire rig to match what my wheel/game is doing and what I'm seeing on screen. So I'm leaning towards the second best option, the Aura Pro Bass Shaker. I'll use that x2 with a 100w Dayton amp. PartsExpress has a really good deal (2 Aura Pro Bass shakers and 100w amp for $163 USD, which is only $214 CAD for me.). After reading some reviews on the Aura's, those should be ask that I need. I hope this configuration will work out for me.

 

[Mr Latte]

Your welcome, indeed using some wood with the rubber can work well. You can get isolators, sheets, squares or matts. While these links may not be suitable, you may find other similar companies or products for sale.

Great Selection:
https://rubberstock.com/flooring-matting.html

Catalogue:
https://rubberstock.com/skin/frontend/mercado/rubberstyle/files/RS-catalog-2012.pdf

Also here
http://www.diversitech.com/Product-Sub-Category?id=a04C000000JpCrgIAF

Depends what you mean by power.
What is important is not so much about power in wattage terms, but how well a unit can deliver the lowest frequencies and how well you can control the unit. Better units produce better low end. Its no different to subwoofers or speakers in this regard. Just depends what you are willing to spend as well or what you want/prefer.

Isolation is just one factor though that can certain improve performance..

Something like the BK Advance opens up much more potential low-end frequencies you can use and if you get an inuke DSP amp, you can then also control the intensity of individual frequencies still feeling them but not have the unit shake everything like crazy.

 

[SOLO59]

Thank you Mr. Latte! I'll check out those links. If I don't find anything then I'll head to my local hardware store.

I'm really looking forward to this.... Can't wait till it's all setup!

 

[Mr Latte]

I don't rate Dayton amps that highly but its your call....
Aura are good for the money, but seriously consider spending more on the amp.

 

[SOLO59]

Hey @Mr Latte I did a lot of research this weekend and "work" lol.
I'm trying to understand why you don't t like the Dayton amps. With the Aura shakers, for me I'll use two, the Dayton 150w amp would be perfect. Shakers are only 50w max each. I'll only use about 50-60% of use out of them. And the amp will only be used for half of its power. So this should be ok?

I'll be purchasing the Dayton 150w amp with the Aura shakers x2 bundle.

Now, on the Smoke-Tronics website, they also have the ADX 50w amp available. These are 20-100hz and the Aura's are 40-180hz. Does the "hz" make a big difference? The ADX cost a bit more than the Aura's.

And one last question, the bundle doesn't come with any wiring. Would you know what cables and wires I would need? Would I also need a power cord for the amp? If so which one?
And if possible, how would I hook it up to the pc? I have those different colored audio jacks at the back of my pc, and I also have a mic and headphone jack at the front of my pc. Would I still require another card? Will I still be able to hear the in game sound/volume through my headphones/speakers and use the bass shakers at the same time without any power loss?

I'm really new to this audio stuff, but really want these bass shakers. So please take it slow. Lol

Thank you

 

[Mr Latte]

Hello Dean, appreciate you are new to this and even moreso that you are researching it and taking on-board what is being said. The end choice is yours what you want to do my friend.

Please link the amplifier/bundle you are considering.

You can look at this two ways, get a cheap as chips option to get you started or consider even if needed holding off a little while gathering up a few extra funds or just spend a bit more on better long term and performance choices. I find it silly, spending $50-$100 less compared to a bit more to get better gear.

From all the amps I have ever used for tactile the Behringer inuke DSP is the best spec and best suited at the price points they are. They also are a proven and tested unit for such by many in the community. It is good also to have an amp that has good head room above the wattage of the tactile being used. This way you are not constantly running an amp at 80 or 100% its potential.

I don't think the difference in the Aura Pro - ADX will be massive but the ADX is the new revised version with claims of more energy and detail. I don't know enough about the new Dayton BST1 model but believe it is not as good. You could order 1 of each, test yourself to see what YOU prefer and make use of the 30-day return policy.

The Aura Pro was rated at 20-80Hz the new improved Maximus model is 20-100Hz.
http://shakercentre.co.uk/aspbite_protect/downloads/PDF/adx-maximus-flyer.pdf

My own preference would be 1 x Inuke DSP 1000 and 2x ADX

As a budget alternative, this amp (tiny but popular and decent performer) with again 2x ADX
http://www.parts-express.com/smsl-sa-98e-tda7498e--stereo-amplifier-2-x-160w--230-214

Cables/connection we can sort when you decide on the amp but in general 14 gauge.

Connection example:
Primary audio (from GPU) or USB Cheapo Soundcard - Speakers
Primary communications device, = USB Headset
Onboard audio = Simvibe

 

[SOLO59]

Thanks again @Mr Latte
Here are the two bundles I'm looking at
http://smoketronics.com/aura-bass-shakers-with-dayton-audio-apa150-bundle-p-306.html

http://smoketronics.com/maximus-bass-shakers-with-dayton-audio-apa150-bundle-p-305.html

Here is the amp you refered to (below). I think I like this one better too. Smaller and more powerful. However, unlike the Dayton amps, this one doesn't look like it has the "built in subwoofer croosover." Is this feature mandatory for this amp/shakers to pc? Would I need a preamp?

https://www.amazon.ca/SMSL-SA-98E-T...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CRCFBJZQV9BGJ775F6WC

So I should go with this amp eh? And I'll definitely get the ADX shakers. So with the one SMSL amp, I can wire the 2 ADX maximus in series correct? And I'll be able to use them in chassis mode through simvibe? I will be mounting them under my seat "left and right." Or is 4 bass shakers needed for chassis mode?

I am currently using headphones with usb and aux. These are Turtle Beach headphones.
https://www.amazon.ca/Turtle-Beach-Amplified-Universal-Headset/dp/B00BDS415I

Should I use a splitter to connect my headphones and the smsl amp simultaneously to my pc? So I can hear audio in my headphones and use the amp/shakers at the same time without issue?
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-...id=1488270546&sr=1-8&keywords=3.5+mm+splitter

Aside from the ADX's and the smsl amp, the cords/cables I know of, I will need so far:

One 3.5mm to 2 rca male
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Connec...88275648&sr=1-2&keywords=3.5+mm+to+2+rca+male

3.5mm male to 2 female 3.5mm (to split my headphones and amp/shakers)
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Headph...275400&sr=1-2&keywords=3.5mm+male+to+2+female

Speaker wire
https://www.amazon.ca/Pyramid-RSW14...8271507&sr=1-5&keywords=14+gauge+speaker+wire

Above are just examples, I'm sure I can get then cheaper at my local electronics store.

With what I understand so far regarding connecting headphones and the smsl amp to pc;
"3.5mm male to 2 3.5mm female splitter" into the back of pc; my headphones goes into one of the female 3.5mm splitter; Connect the 3.5mm to 2 rca male (the rca males connect to amp. 3.5 mm connects to splitter thats connected to pc).

And wiring the shakers in series mode;
Using speaker wire (cut three pieces); one wire connects the ADX's together -+; second wire connects to the positive on one of the ADX shakers, then feed the other end of the wire to the amp; Third wire, same process with second wire, but on the other shaker and connecting the negative. (But how would I connect the speaker wire to the amp?)

I'm not there yet, but I am kind of getting this. I will go out this week and get all the cords/cables after I hear your recommendation.
Next week, I'm taking the plunge and ordering there ADX shakers and SMSL amp. I'll order it so it arrives on the weekend

 

[Mr Latte]

I know the SMSL amps are used by quite a few people with Aura Pro for a few years, so yes its a good priced component for the ADX tactile. It has approx twice the wattage and costs less to the Dayton APA150 so kinda easy choice. I believe this amp will even support the Buttkicker Mini LFE models. Do price around however as Parts Express may be cheaper for the ADX units? PE do a deal for 4 or more.

For Simvibe it couldn't be simpler with 1x 3.5mm - Stereo RCA cable and then your speaker cable
Using Green Output from soundcard to offer the "Front CM". If using only 2 of the 4 possible CM then be sure to set it for "Front Channels". You can set sound properties to Stereo but I don't think, if it was set to Quadraphonic it would matter (with no rear units connected).

Connections Etc
Headphones if USB you should be able to set to either default audio device (game audio in headset) or just default communications device (game audio out of other default audio device, eg speakers or TV) and do this Via USB connection.

The soundcard for Simvibe will not be outputting "audio" but only Simvibe effects.
You can however route game audio from "Primary Sound Device" possibly with an adapter to split this for 3.5mm on headphones and 3.5mm going into the "LINE IN" of the soundcard used for Simvibe.

If doing this by turning on and adjusting the input level (soundcard settings) for the LINE IN it is possible to feed "Game/System Audio" into the tactile and then also have it over headphones. Additionally, you can have game audio-tactile mixed with Simvibe effects if you want. Your basically using the Simvibe soundcard to output the LINE IN only (Simvibe Off) or mix the LINE IN with its Simvibe output. (btw use LINE IN not MIC)

You dont run the amp in series mode for two units, just standard L/R.
The amp only has two inputs (STEREO) so to wire in series to have 4 units @ 8ohm would give you A/B or Dual Stereo but do so with Simvibe still operating in Stereo output. You need 4 inputs to properly do CM, so best to just hold off and buy a 2nd amp with 2 more ADX when suits.

 

[SOLO59]

I live in Canada, so PE may have them a bit cheaper, but shipping and taxes will add up once it crosses into Canada.

So I can't use CM with only two shakers mounted L & R under my seat? Damn. It's ok.
I saw a video comparing the Aura, ADX and buttkicker. Those buttkicker man... They are strong! So if I can't use chassis mode with two ADX's, and that same SMSL amp will work with three buttkicker, then I might just go with the buttkicker/SMSL combo.
I wanted to feel "left" and "right" effects using CM with two ADX's. I don't plan on going there full four shaker CM setup. Way out of my price range. I'm still deciding.

ADX's x2 with SMSL amp or one Buttkicker with SMSL??? Guess I got more research to do lol

When I'm home tomorrow, I'll post some pics of the audio jacks I have. Just so I have an understanding of using headphones and Simvibe at the same time. I'm still a bit confused.

You have cleared up of how to connect the bass shakers with amp to pc. Thank you very very much Mr. Latte.

I'll do more research weather two ADX's or one Buttkicker will work best in EM.

 

[Mr Latte]

Righteo Gotcha,

The front CM channels can be more lively than the rears which makes sense as these are used for steering. Yet you want if using two units on the seat for them to still be the front channels.

The Buttkicker can have the piston bottoming issue with medium to high volumes. If you were going for them then I would recommend the inuke amp be able to control them better with the DSP to get the most out of them. More will be shown in the current thread of this soon and a user/owner give his own account on the experiences. The hope is other readers/owners will respond and discuss their own findings or experiences with these smaller BK units. I think the issue is rather common and people overdriving these units with either Simvibe settings or possibly excessive wattage. To work best they need to be controlled.

Most people with normal amps using them may have to lower the power to avoid the issue. The Jenna Nitro video highlights them cutting out and knocking the glass over with the frequency spikes they seem to have in the low-end frequencies. A friend is looking more into this with tests but it is a common problem with all the Buttkicker mini models. Simxperience SE edition add acoustic foam to help reduce this but I believe that gets compressed and turned to mush with on-going usage of the units. Mini SE owners can open the top casing and have a look to see how theirs is holding up. I dont know over time if the foam or solution used was improved since the first batch I once owned.

Headphones and Simvibe etc isnt a problem its just utilising the appropriate sound cards/devices within windows for the roles you want them to have. Some people use either a cheapo 5.1 USB soundcard for primary audio others use the GPU. This frees the onboard audio for Simvibe. Your USB headset acts as another device if using the USB connection and not just the 3.5mm cable into a current device.

The ADX will not have the energy of the Mini BK units but they do work well, pretty much hassle free for the price they are. These are options you have to consider. I certainly welcome as I am sure you do any owners of either ADX Maximus or BK Mini models reading this to offer their own opinions to help you make a decision.

Get what unit you want first, nothing stopping you buying one of the other at some point to do you own testing and comparisons my friend. That is also one way to find what suits you best. In time you can grow a system, many people gradually work towards their ideal cockpits/setups with small progress or upgrades.

One day at a time fella,

 

[SOLO59]

Thank you for all you advice and very much appreciated input.

So the headphones with simvibe and the bass shakers and amp installation/wiring all seems doable. Ha just wait till next week and I'll be freaking out of what to do... Nah just kidding, I should be fine. I may pick your brain should I need assistance. But I've picked your brain and I've read enough about this setup. I'm just gonna wait until next week and see how it goes.

I know I should try out what works best for me, but I just want to buy the amp and shakers, and RACE! with a on my face the entire time! Lol

But following your advice, reading a bunch of reviews, considering how much I can spend and how much more power do I want to use when I am at home playing my race sims.

So I'll stick with what seems to be both budget friendly, power use friendly and a solid performer (based on reviews); is the ADX Maximus x2 and the SMSL amp.

Thanks again Mr. Latte

Oh and I know I know, on step at a time. But reading the reviews and watching them on YouTube, these guys REALLY make the idea of bass shakers and sin racing one hell of an experience!

 

[Mr Latte]

I appreciate if you hit the like button for posts, if or where you feel it deserves such.

As a friend mentioned, the other night to me...
Some people tend to say, the BK Mini can almost shake your eyes out. Yet when he got them he felt underwhelmed with them. He, upgraded to the next bigger model and was much more satisfied. I guess people's own expectations and impressions of what is "strong tactile" varies.

I've bought most models at some stage, so have formed my own opinion based on my own experiences. Using a steering wheel is a good perspective. Plenty of people are happy with a T300/T500 type experience, it works well, gives good immersion. Yet when you experience something like a professional Direct Drive level of quality/performance then you will likely get a new perspective. The biggest LFE unit is a bit like that if comparing the smallest - largest Buttkicker models.

Trouble Free Operation / Perfect Tactile Bliss?
Simvibe can feel great but it can also be one of the most frustrating and annoying bits of software to use or fully understand. Lots of time can be spent trying to tune your units to work and perform well with all the options for effect creation that are possible. It really depends how much you want to tinker or how easy you are to please regards the sensations you feel.

 

[SOLO59]

* These forums will soon be getting the most detailed and useful Simvibe guides available anywhere. I will be breaking down every effect to what it does and the settings they have in layman's terms. Individual "Tutorials" for "Engine" and "Suspension Bumps" are coming as is a general guide on "Tactile Units / Amps " & also "Understanding Audio Terminology" often used or relevant for tactile.

You mean the RD forums will have these guidelines??? That would be very useful!

Cables, amp and ADX shakers should all be here by next Friday!

 

[Mr Latte]

I have plenty of material done that I work on/off with. Some of this going back the last 3-4 months as "Google Docs" for potential PDF's. While these could be completed and made available I have been asked by some to consider doing a tutorial type thread.

Possibly it may be best, not in just releasing PDF based guides but getting involved with the community, offering a breakdown step by step based, easy to understand tutorial. Doing this with simpler, "Engine Effects" and then "Suspension/Bump" based effects.

The idea in, covering each and every effect, including available options they have with information on what these do and potentially good settings towards building good profile effects. I'm just not sure in what format to try and do it and it needs some more consideration.


Look forward to your first impressions and here if you want or need more help.

 

[SOLO59]

I really do like the setup/tutorial thread idea. That will be very useful for a lot of newbies like myself.

I am really looking forward to the ADX bass shakers. The cords, USB sound card and SMSL amp all came in the mail already. Just waiting for the ADX's to arrive. Then I'll purchase Simvibe. The suspense is killing me to finally experience it.

I'll for sure post my experience and immersions on the forums. I haven't seen much ADX/sim racing reviews and impressions out there.

 

[SOLO59]

Just a quick question. Already thinking of getting more shakers????
Would the bass shaker below require another sound card? I'll be using the ADX x2 shakers under my seat for front L/R in CM. That will use the center/sub port (green) at the back of my pc.
Would the Dayton puck be able to use the "black port" (labled as rear)? Then just use the puck in EM? Or is another sound card needed?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0045...yton+pucks&dpPl=1&dpID=41rtAGmkgAL&ref=plSrch

 

[Mr Latte]

Good that some stuff arrived, the SMSL are really small too aint it.
Look forward to you getting things installed and started.

I believe one sound card per "Simvibe Mode" is required, each supports upto 4 channels in quadraphonic mode. You can't to my knowledge designate only 2 units for CM and then 1 or 2 more for EM using only a single card.

With using CM there are no effects that you cannot create or play around with. My advice would be to not seek EM until you have CM operating in all 4 ADX units. Experience tactile in both pedals and seat as it opens up the immersion.

One of the things that can be done with EM when used with CM is creating profiles that better split up the effects and so that a tactile unit is not overworked trying to produce multiple effects at once. The tutorial goes into depth on this and regards individual effects operations.

You will find like others have, sometimes more effects generated on a single unit produces less detailing of the specific effects used. Often people prefer to choose and limit the number of effects so that the effects they do use feel better. 3-4 effects can work well on most units but settings and Hz used are very important so that they are tuned to suit the unit being used and your own installation/preferences.

From what I have seen, I would assume many Simvibe owners are not fully aware of how frequencies operate, what bandwidth or amplitude is nor which frequencies would work well on their own chosen hardware. Understanding these factors helps, yet most people move the sliders in Simvibe for a set feature without perhaps really understanding what it is doing or a good setting may be and lack of official guidance or instruction from SimXperience.

I can assure you, it's not just newbies to Simvibe that are unsure about much of what it does or have good understanding of the audio factors involved. I want to bring forward guides/tutorials that will make such easy to grasp and help users get more enjoyment or better profiles from the software.

Recently been working again on my own build so this is holding work up for the guides.
What I wanted to do was becoming too big for a single guide. So I split it into 4 and work for these continues:

• Tactile Hardware & Related Audio Factors
• Simvibe General Overview
• Simvibe Engine Effects Tutorial
• Simvibe Suspension / Chassis Effects Tutorial

 

[whaletail]

Thanks again @Mr Latte
Here are the two bundles I'm looking at
http://smoketronics.com/aura-bass-shakers-with-dayton-audio-apa150-bundle-p-306.html

http://smoketronics.com/maximus-bass-shakers-with-dayton-audio-apa150-bundle-p-305.html

Here is the amp you refered to (below). I think I like this one better too. Smaller and more powerful. However, unlike the Dayton amps, this one doesn't look like it has the "built in subwoofer croosover." Is this feature mandatory for this amp/shakers to pc? Would I need a preamp?

https://www.amazon.ca/SMSL-SA-98E-T...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CRCFBJZQV9BGJ775F6WC

So I should go with this amp eh? And I'll definitely get the ADX shakers. So with the one SMSL amp, I can wire the 2 ADX maximus in series correct? And I'll be able to use them in chassis mode through simvibe? I will be mounting them under my seat "left and right." Or is 4 bass shakers needed for chassis mode?

I am currently using headphones with usb and aux. These are Turtle Beach headphones.
https://www.amazon.ca/Turtle-Beach-Amplified-Universal-Headset/dp/B00BDS415I

Should I use a splitter to connect my headphones and the smsl amp simultaneously to my pc? So I can hear audio in my headphones and use the amp/shakers at the same time without issue?
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-...id=1488270546&sr=1-8&keywords=3.5+mm+splitter

Aside from the ADX's and the smsl amp, the cords/cables I know of, I will need so far:

One 3.5mm to 2 rca male
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Connec...88275648&sr=1-2&keywords=3.5+mm+to+2+rca+male

3.5mm male to 2 female 3.5mm (to split my headphones and amp/shakers)
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Headph...275400&sr=1-2&keywords=3.5mm+male+to+2+female

Speaker wire
https://www.amazon.ca/Pyramid-RSW14...8271507&sr=1-5&keywords=14+gauge+speaker+wire

Above are just examples, I'm sure I can get then cheaper at my local electronics store.

With what I understand so far regarding connecting headphones and the smsl amp to pc;
"3.5mm male to 2 3.5mm female splitter" into the back of pc; my headphones goes into one of the female 3.5mm splitter; Connect the 3.5mm to 2 rca male (the rca males connect to amp. 3.5 mm connects to splitter thats connected to pc).

And wiring the shakers in series mode;
Using speaker wire (cut three pieces); one wire connects the ADX's together -+; second wire connects to the positive on one of the ADX shakers, then feed the other end of the wire to the amp; Third wire, same process with second wire, but on the other shaker and connecting the negative. (But how would I connect the speaker wire to the amp?)

I'm not there yet, but I am kind of getting this. I will go out this week and get all the cords/cables after I hear your recommendation.
Next week, I'm taking the plunge and ordering there ADX shakers and SMSL amp. I'll order it so it arrives on the weekend

I'm pretty sure wiring your shakers in series to a mono amp (or any amp) won't work for chassis mode. You need a stereo amp (or better yet, 4 channel amp), with a shaker wired to each L and R speaker output, and and an RCA plug from your soundcard output (via 3.5mm plug) to each of your amp's L and R input.

Since you're using a USB soundcard to power your headphones, you don't need a soundcard. Just use your onboard sound outputs, but you may have download the driver (Realtek usually) first.

I'm using 2x SMSL 98E amps, each powering 2 Dayton BST-1 shakers in chassis mode, with volume at around 50%-75%. My rig is very rigid 80/20.

Although I enjoy the immersion, I'm losing a lot of acoustic energy throughout my rig, and since I don't feel like trying to channel everything to my body with isolation, I'm going to try an EM config, with two shakers beneath my seat, and two beneath my pedals.

If space, and weight, aren't significant concerns, I think Rodney's DSP iNuke amps are probably your best option. Being able to reduce output at specific frequencies (e.g. 35 Hz), and increase it at others (e.g. 40-50 Hz sweet spot) is probably very useful, and even if you don't end up using the DSP/PEQ functionality, you still have an excellent amplifier with lots of wattage headroom.

Personally, I think Berney's always been a little short-sighted regarding the optimal use of his software, and ought to welcome outside research, but that's only my opinion.