Cheap direct drive wheel base

[BloodySalmonMan]

Hi
Do you guys know that a Ukraine company called Feel VR is about to launch their fist product which is direct drive wheel base in February or March and IT ONLY COST $333!!!! We don't have much information about it but I just want to know your thoughts.

 

[PsyaNyde]

well i subscribed a couple of weeks ago, seems too good to be true, but you never know, we can live in hope.

 

[BloodySalmonMan]

well i subscribed a couple of weeks ago, seems too good to be true, but you never know, we can live in hope.

True. I'm thinking about upgrading from DFGT but I might go for Fanatec pedals though

 

[Jeremy Ford]

The lack of video demonstration and technical specs of the motor do leave me sceptical about the product. This is super cheap for a DD motor driven wheel so there has to be cost savings to make a profit.

 

[Fat-Alfie]

" In general, we can say that the torque is roughly 7 times greater than that of the G27, T500 and the like."

G27 = 2.3 Nm
T500RS = 4.4 Nm

So it will produce either 16 Nm or 31 Nm That's pretty vague, and a very broad description.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Pretty sure it says 14nm on the kickstarter page or at least it did. I wouldn't trust anybody making a wheel that thinks it needs a light in the back...

 

[Fat-Alfie]

"At the moment, there are little or no technical details shared, but it is reported that the wheel puts out 12Nm of torque which is somewhat less than an average Direct Drive wheel but still way more than a normal belt-driven unit. The software that drives the hardware is supposedly developed by the Israeli AppReal-VR software development company."

The torque is going down rapidly, as we speak

Seriously though, I would love a wheel with low torque (my T500RS is more than enough for me) but lightning quick in response. I use a Wheelstand Pro and I'm pretty sure any of the current crop of DD wheels would be way too torquey to mount on it

 

[millen]

Seriously though, I would love a wheel with low torque (my T500RS is more than enough for me) but lightning quick in response. I use a Wheelstand Pro and I'm pretty sure any of the current crop of DD wheels would be way too torquey to mount on it

Just turn down the nm man... problem solved.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Yes they would be, I had a Next Level Wheelstand in itself 16kg and even bolted to the back section of the rig the Accuforce (which is 'only' 13nm) made it flex and wobble like a cheap toy.

 

[Jan Larsen]

I've never understood the torque thing. The newest DD wheels have so much torque they could snap a wrist. Granted, thats realistic if you hit a wall, but whats the point? Focus and marketing should be centered around lowest latency possible, smoothest operation possible and the most accurate presentation/feel of what the front tires are doing on the road. Not this torque nonsense.
Offtopic, but why noone other than ECCI has tried fluid based wheels is beyond me. Most real cars and racecars are made with hydraulic steering racks...

 

[GuitarTech]

I've never understood the torque thing. The newest DD wheels have so much torque they could snap a wrist. Granted, thats realistic if you hit a wall, but whats the point? Focus and marketing should be centered around lowest latency possible, smoothest operation possible and the most accurate presentation/feel of what the front tires are doing on the road. Not this torque nonsense.
Offtopic, but why noone other than ECCI has tried fluid based wheels is beyond me. Most real cars and racecars are made with hydraulic steering racks...

You've got a point with the torque: DD wheels are the thing to have ( apparently) at the moment, but who really needs 25-30 Nm torque?
My TS-PC has I think 8Nm (someone correct me if I'm wrong), and, in comparison with the T300 I had before, it's a monster. After the first few days of playing bodybuilder just because I could, I find myself increasingly turning it back down to realistic levels before it breaks my arms or wrists.
I'm struggling to see why I should "upgrade" to a DD wheel when I'll only end up turning it back down to useable levels. Or perhaps I'm missing something? I'm an old dog, but I'm still interested in learning new tricks....

 

[Yapci]

I believe that the response, smoothness and all the quality’s of a wheel are better in the DD wheel even ignoring how much torque you put in (i saw Neil’s video with 100% torque and he barely did one or two laps and was suffering badly). So it’s a matter of feeling more than nM of the wheel.

But I got a g27 so...for me it’s not smooth, not fast, not strong...but noisy! And cheap...

 

[Furnace Inferno]

The point of DD wheels is not just torque, remember the best rated Bodnar Wheels start at 16nm which is less than a small Mige but still considered better.

Torque is less important on a belt/gear wheel because none of them are capable of anywhere near the same detail as a DD wheel when it comes to subtle forces as the mechanism completely dampens it out. So more torque on those really just means a stronger wheel.

With DD the reason you want more torque is simply to stop clipping because it is able to give the subtle feedback, road textures, bumps etc. under load just as easily as with low forces and it's really obvious when it does clip because it has so much detail which you might not have noticed otherwise.

The best way I can explain it is if you had a cheap speaker it's able to do 40-10000Hz say and at low volumes it does that fine but crank it up and it all falls apart because it doesn't have the power, it was already boomy to begin with though so the difference isn't so obvious, those are you belt/gear driven wheels.

Then you have your mid range speaker which can do 5-10000Hz, now you are getting some serious low end feel you didn't even know you were missing but once you've felt it you just want more. It sounds amazing and it blows you away, you can run it at even higher volumes than your old cheap system could ever dream of but you crave the real high volumes and it's hear too where it just doesn't have the juice. This is the sub 20nm DD.

This is where the real high end begins, maybe only marginal gains in frequency say 3-10000Hz almost unlimited power, it's no longer a case of whether it will run out of grunt but how much your ears can take. ~30nm DD.

The test where he runs it at 100% is actually stupid because it doesn't relate to anything. Cranking up the torque to 20nm just to turn the car isn't realistic if the real thing doesn't require that much. 100% in settings only makes sense in games which automatically adjusts the torque for you realistically to the car which I think only rFactor 2 and iRacing do, Automobilista which he tested it on doesn't though.

FFB is actually really quite primitive at the moment and not tailored to high torque wheels which isn't all the surprising when you consider they've only been around and easily available to consumers in the last few years. Before that consumers wheels were pretty poor in comparison, a G27 was the pinnacle not too long ago.

 

[Fat-Alfie]

The more I read about this wheel, the more I tempted to take a risk on buying one

 

[Jan Larsen]

I'd strongly recommend not doing that before seeing some reviews. The site says nothing about the control electronics and the software used, of which both are vital to the operation of the wheel, even more than the motor itself which is a standard component. You're basically buying and paying blind here.

 

[Terry Rock]

I've never understood the torque thing. The newest DD wheels have so much torque they could snap a wrist. Granted, thats realistic if you hit a wall, but whats the point? Focus and marketing should be centered around lowest latency possible, smoothest operation possible and the most accurate presentation/feel of what the front tires are doing on the road. Not this torque nonsense.
Offtopic, but why noone other than ECCI has tried fluid based wheels is beyond me. Most real cars and racecars are made with hydraulic steering racks...

You sir, took the words right out of my mouth.
I've spent my entire life driving, building , racing... cars, karts and anything with wheels.
I never could understand this fascination with overly-weighted, aggressive FFB in simracing.
It's one of those things that just about any driving-age simracer can check for themselves..
You just have to walk out to your car, open the door and step in.
Believe it or not, 'steering-wise'... your daily road car doesn't feel much different than a race car.
What's different, is the speed-corrective response to car reaction.
Sure!..the race car is more 'pointed' and harsh in every other way. It's loud, buzzy and can be a bit brutal on your body during heavy cornering.
On straights, it doesn't feel much different...just damn fast.

 

[Johand]

depends on what you are trying to simulate , my renault twingo with city powersteering and 145 tires feels a bit different then lets say a lotus 98t with soft qualifyers and high downforce..

A formula car without powersteering and high downforce can get you blisters on your hands..

DD is the way!

 

[Fat-Alfie]

I just want a low-force, low internal friction (quicker than my T500RS) wheel that I can mount on a wheelstand-pro

 

[Jan Larsen]

So do I, but I dont want to pay a dime until I know precisely what I buy .
The best wheel I've ever owned is an Ecci, it was non-FFB, beltdriven but with hydraulic resistance instead of motor resistance. That wheel is still the king of smoothness, even today. Unfortunately very expensive and I made a colossal mistake selling it many years ago.

 

[Eddie Ellis]

I just want a low-force, low internal friction (quicker than my T500RS) wheel that I can mount on a wheelstand-pro

so how is this different than a Clubsport V2.5 or even a CSL Elite PS4?