Controller profiles driving me crazy

[RaceWasGood]

Seriously, how hard can it be... I've unplugged a controller that i'm not using atm and now i can't get rid of it from the controller profile. I just keep getting the message that a controller is missing.

Surely i could just configure a new profile, but that's a bit lame cause the profile is otherwise just fine.

I'm sure there's an easy way to do this, but i'm lost here. Any help would be great. Thanks!

 

[DND]

I have been getting the message device is missing and have ignored it. Not sure what the deal is but it seems to work fine regardless.

 

[UMC 22]

If it's a whole profile that you are not longer using, you can delete the controller file from My Documents\My Games\SimBin\RaceRoom Racing Experience\UserData\ControlSet. If the profile you are using contains bindings for a controller that is no longer plugged in, you will need to find those bindings and remove them.

 

[RaceWasGood]

Thanks Ross, that's the way to do it! It's all clear to me now I guess controller profiles can also be deleted by clicking the bin icon next to the profile, or is there a specific reason to rather delete the files directly?

 

[Lars Hansen]

I guess controller profiles can also be deleted by clicking the bin icon next to the profile, or is there a specific reason to rather delete the files directly?

Using the in-game delete function saves you from hunting down the file on your drive.
But it's the same difference.

 

[RaceWasGood]

On a side note, the steering lock setting per car seems to be ignored when saving a setup for a specific track. I'm curious why that is?

 

[Case_]

Steering lock is not a per-track setting in R3E. Neither is the FFB multiplier I believe.

 

[UMC 22]

Indeed, both seem to be per-car settings rather than part of the setup file.

 

[RaceWasGood]

Yes i’ve noticed. Now i don't know exactly how setting up a racing car in real life works, but wouldn't it make sense to have included the steering lock setting in the saved setup?

 

[Lars Hansen]

Yes i’ve noticed. Now i don't know exactly how setting up a racing car in real life works, but wouldn't it make sense to have included the steering lock setting in the saved setup?

Depends.
I'm by no means an expert on real-life racing (or anything else for that matter), but as far as I know, if you look at production-car racing (i.e. GT1-GT4) you're not allowed to change the steering lock in the first place. You certainly can't in Cup cars, since the whole purpose of them is to be equal for all drivers.

In specialized series such as DTM, WTCC and single-seaters, you probably can.
Whether or not they do so outside extreme tracks such as Monaco or Macau, I have no idea.
I wouldn't think so, but that's pure guesswork.

In sim-racing I think it's more a question of having to take into account that not all wheels have the same degree of rotation available in the first place, so you may need some leeway.
Once I've found a setting I'm happy with, I rarely change it between tracks anyway.

 

[UMC 22]

I never change it myself, always run whatever the game sets as default.

 

[RaceWasGood]

Depends.
I'm by no means an expert on real-life racing (or anything else for that matter), but as far as I know, if you look at production-car racing (i.e. GT1-GT4) you're not allowed to change the steering lock in the first place. You certainly can't in Cup cars, since the whole purpose of them is to be equal for all drivers.

In specialized series such as DTM, WTCC and single-seaters, you probably can.
Whether or not they do so outside extreme tracks such as Monaco or Macau, I have no idea.
I wouldn't think so, but that's pure guesswork.

In sim-racing I think it's more a question of having to take into account that not all wheels have the same degree of rotation available in the first place, so you may need some leeway.
Once I've found a setting I'm happy with, I rarely change it between tracks anyway.

Thanks, learned something new there

I haven't touched the steering lock until recently after reading a bit about it. Imo the steering felt a bit less jerky and more to my taste on the Merc 190E with steering lock at 27 as opposed to the default 30 (while keeping the wheel rotation at 900). Tested just a few laps at Road America, so It might as well be placebo

 

[UMC 22]

I never change it myself, always run whatever the game sets as default.

I post this and then for the first time ever, actually change the steering lock. In fairness though, it was on a Hillclimb Icon... their steering is crazy sensitive since they're designed for hill climbs, not track racing.

 

[RaceWasGood]

I post this and then for the first time ever, actually change the steering lock. In fairness though, it was on a Hillclimb Icon... their steering is crazy sensitive since they're designed for hill climbs, not track racing.

Eagerly waiting for test results

 

[UMC 22]

Eagerly waiting for test results

Lol... well, on that car it completely removed the horrible twitchiness I was having trouble with. This change plus a tweaked diff, and I went from second slowest to third fasted in last night's club event with two 2nd places. So, the results were pretty good.

 

[Yetch]

I never change it myself, always run whatever the game sets as default.

Surely you up it a bit for the hairpin at Macau?

 

[UMC 22]

Surely you up it a bit for the hairpin at Macau?

Nope, never. The one and only time I've ever changed it was on the Hillclimb Icons on Thursday.

 

[Jacob Marshall]

OK first, it's a necro and I apologise, but it was also the first RaceDepartment post that came up when I searched this issue; so I'm piggy-backing on this one for when someone else googles the problem.

I've posted a possible fix on the RR3 forums for the 'Device Missing' problem, hope this helps.

"Ok I think I've found the fix, specifically for the CSL Pedals issue, but the principle should carry over.

Go to \My Games\SimBin\RaceRoom Racing Experience\UserData\ControlSet, (make a backup of your control set) then open the original control set with Notepad++ or something; in my case my control set was 'ffs'.

You must make sure that the pedals you WILL be using are configured; in my case they are HE Sprints.

Run a search for 'DeviceName[' (no quotes) until you find the entry for the "Fanatec pedals", it will look similar to the following:

DeviceName[01]="FANATEC CSL Elite Pedals LC"
DeviceId[01]="(1644433079, -1, -1, 0)"
Axis [01, 00] Dead Zone="0.0"
Axis [01, 00] Sensitivity="0.5"
Axis [01, 00] Center="0.5"
Axis [01, 00] Range="1.0"

Now run the same search until you find your pedals, eg;

DeviceName[02]="HE Sprints"
DeviceId[02]="(268513463, -1, -1, 0)"
Axis [02, 00] Dead Zone="0.0"
Axis [02, 00] Sensitivity="0.5"
Axis [02, 00] Center="0.5"
Axis [02, 00] Range="1.0"

In the following,
DeviceName[01]="FANATEC CSL Elite Pedals LC" replace
"FANATEC CSL Elite Pedals LC" with "anything you want" - do NOT change DeviceName[01]=, leave that part alone.

Now do the same with DeviceId, so
DeviceId[01]="(1644433079, -1, -1, 0)" (the Fanatec pedal setting), becomes
DeviceId[01]="(268513463, -1, -1, 0)" (the HE Sprint setting).

My before and after is:

Before:
DeviceName[01]="FANATEC CSL Elite Pedals LC"
DeviceId[01]="(1644433079, -1, -1, 0)"
Axis [01, 00] Dead Zone="0.0"
Axis [01, 00] Sensitivity="0.5"
Axis [01, 00] Center="0.5"
Axis [01, 00] Range="1.0"

After:
DeviceName[01]="HE Sprints"
DeviceId[01]="(268513463, -1, -1, 0)"
Axis [01, 00] Dead Zone="0.0"
Axis [01, 00] Sensitivity="0.5"
Axis [01, 00] Center="0.5"
Axis [01, 00] Range="1.0"


Save the file then load the game; you'll likely have to setup gas/brake/clutch but that's it, you should be good to go."