DAEX32EP-4 problem - broken spider

[StuyoDGr8]

Hello,

I am having recently issues with 2 out of 4 of my Dayton exciters (DAEX32EP-4) - their steel spider breaks - usually in one of the arms just snaps and starts rattling a lot. As added bonus the spider looses its spring rate which leads to poor performance.

I am using them at about 40-50Hz range with speaker volume at 70-80% and on Profile level in SimHub at 50% - so much below the full volume.

Anyone else has those issues? One of my thrusters lost already two spider arms, still usable, but I guess soon it will totally die. I am looking into replacing them at the end with something that can produce more powerful lower frequencies, but cannot find anything similar with so much power in a small package. Any suggestions? I already have 4 Auras mounted below for CM wheel emulation, the exciters are used on the side of the seat and under pedal plate and shifter for additional effects - thus needing smaller size shakers for this application.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

I am having recently issues with 2 out of 4 of my Dayton exciters (DAEX32EP-4) - their steel spider breaks - usually in one of the arms just snaps and starts rattling a lot. As added bonus the spider looses its spring rate which leads to poor performance.

Yup. I think I've killed two so far. I'm driving them with a Doulk audio 4-ch amplifier. Volume knobs are set to 50%, simhub master effects control is set to about 20-25%.

Honestly, I think they resonate too well somewhere in the 40 Hz range, and they pop the spider arms. Something to dampen the resonance would probably help constrain the motion from the excessive excursions that pull the units apart. Maybe a piece of foam over the top of it or something. Dunno. I haven't done any experiments to see.

 

[StuyoDGr8]

Yup. I think I've killed two so far. I'm driving them with a Doulk audio 4-ch amplifier. Volume knobs are set to 50%, simhub master effects control is set to about 20-25%.

Honestly, I think they resonate too well somewhere in the 40 Hz range, and they pop the spider arms. Something to dampen the resonance would probably help constrain the motion from the excessive excursions that pull the units apart. Maybe a piece of foam over the top of it or something. Dunno. I haven't done any experiments to see.

Thanks for the input. I broke another one (as expected) and I can confirm your suspicions. I am using them with the following effects:

1. Simulated road surface - 30% volume, 50-70 Hz range
2. Gear Shift - 100% volume, 54Hz
3. Jump landing - 100% volume, 40 Hz

As stated before total SimHub volume is 60%, exciters are between 60-70 depending on position.

The main issue as far as I can see is when you have the constant high frequency road texture and then you add the low frequency jump landing - then it looks this enters some resonance frequency and the amplitude of the speaker becomes too big. Before snapping the spiders I never had any audible clanking noise, which means they are working quite OK without reaching the underlying surface, but apparently it is too much for the spider to take it in continuous use.

As all three exciters have two of the spider arms broken, I cut them to remove the noise they produce. Exciters are a tittle less powerful now, but still produce nice feedback above the 50Hz range, so still usable.

Also removed the jump landing not to kill them more, will be adding some bigger bass shakers to assign low frequency effects to them.

Also on the topic of a damper - I already did some testing, it could maybe be possible to produce some protection that works OK with them. I am planning on 3D printing some bracket and lining it with foam rubber to see if it helps.

It is really pity - these exciters are very powerful at 40Hz and produce quite big jolt, but apparently when mixed with more than on effect they break pretty easy. I have two more arriving soon, we will see how they hold up and how to use them safely.

 

[stigs2cousin]

So after reading your post I checked the rattling noise on my brake pedal exciter, seems I have the same problem.

Daexp32ep-4 as above, only charged with wheel lock vibrations around the 65-40hz mark.
Glued to a little aluminium piece bolted to my Heusinkveld Sprint brake and accelerator pedal.

The Simhub volumes are irrelevant for comparing because we can´t compare the amp volume, in my case a 5.1receiver with nominal 170 watts per channel, set to about-30db.

MFG Carsten

 

[Mr Latte]

Appears as a wattage issue or combination of high input level and output gain for certain effects. It might be best to look into the effects and settings used, to see if the effects are clipping?

"Gearshift" could certainly be a culprit effect.

Share the profile, to help determine.

I would not try to use these at full wattage levels constantly, especially if they are being used with effects with high activity.

 

[StuyoDGr8]

Thanks for all the input, based on what we discussed above I spend a good part of a week testing different options.

First of all, about the SimHub volume I am always quoting - as I am using Amps wit USB sound device built in, all the volumes are set via software - SimHub has total control over it. Still, I am using everything below 60% volume (the big shakers are much less).

About the Exciters - I contacted the store I bought them, and as suspected, we are putting them improper use, which leads to high amplitudes and breaks them. Here is what they explained:

"I am afraid the exciters got damaged due to over excursion. Exciters are designed to couple acoustic energy to a surface so that the surface becomes a speaker. I understand the exciters are used as tactile transducer. They limited power handling and excursion limit (especially at frequencies below resonance) for such applications unless carefully monitored."

In the meanwhile, I have ordered 2x BST-1, 2x Dayton Pucks and 1x BST-2 for testing purposes, to decide which way to go further:

As we discussed above I designed some fancy bracket as proof of concept to try to support the Exciters - as expected it failed miserably. It led to unwanted resonance (noise) , also muted the low vibrations - ended up removing them. Two-by-two exciters were linked in series to achieve higher impedance (8Ohm), also to save some Amp channels as I am running only 5 amps now and have 10 in total. Both of the lowers exciters are new ones, top ones have two arms broken each. Having them in series and driving them in 70% in channel coning and 55-60% on profile level proved successful. I am running them this way for about two weeks now, they are still fine. I put only high frequency effects there - Simulated road texture + wheel lock:



Having moved the Auras outside from the pedal/seat support, I freed some space to mount two more Dayton BST-1s for additional effects. Now I have there simulated road surface, jump landing and gear effects:



As the shifter exciter was failing miserably (3 arms broken, rendering it unusable), figured out the BST-2 mounting holes fit perfectly the bottom mounts of the Fanatec shifter bottom plate. Used some longer screws and it was no-brainer:

Used like this for a week, quite satisfied, but as it is mounted on the extension, where I also keep my mouse pad and having no means of isolating it from the main structure, I had either to use lower volume or deal with nasty delayed sound somewhere from the back of the structure:

Finally today decided to make quick test with the pucks. Mounted one on the shifter profile, one on the shifter itself - both are using only 2 screws for mounting - quick test fitting, which looks to be working fine, so for now will be left like this:



Shifting effects are now quiet and localized, really like the feel. Still have not played game with this configuration, will test tonight. Shift and missed gears effects are assigned there, also put Simulated Road Surface - really like the faint inconsistent vibrations I get when grabbing hold of one of the shifters.

This left me with one spare BST-2 and one free amp channel, so figured out I can mount it on the back of the seat:

Now what is left is to actually play some games and test how to set all the effects. Next days will be dealing with cable management, but first want to see if I will leave the current configuration as is or will change more things.

 

[blekenbleu]

for testing purposes

Also try Dayton's DAEX30HESF, which while similar to the DAEX32EP, lack its steel spider:

• lower resonant frequency
• less to go wrong
• better tactile measurements
  

 

[StuyoDGr8]

Also try Dayton's DAEX30HESF, which while similar to the DAEX32EP, lack its steel spider:

• lower resonant frequency
• less to go wrong
• better tactile measurements

Thank you, I followed your advice and switched to using DAEX30HESF. Either way all my 6 DAEX32EP-4 I have only two unbroken left (one was never used though). I managed to find a way to safely operate the DAEX32EP-4s with higher frequencies and not so much effects, but at the end after a month or two all of the broke - enormous waste of money.

Compared to them the DAEX30HESF are not so powerful, but yet again I am driving them at higher volume so it is almost comparable. Really liked the deep effect achievable with the EPs, as they have bigger moving mass multiplied by metal spider, but what can you do, nothing is perfect. Right now I am running for more than 2 months with four of them on the side of the seat back rest - still working great. At high volume they produce some noise, but I am able to use quite low frequencies and it is not really so much hearable.

In the meantime I ordered also two Dayton DAEX58FP 25W exciters for testing purposes. They are OK, a little more powerful from the Pucks, but produce noise because of the plastic base they have. I also migrated to shorter 8040 shifter arm to separate the mouse pad and isolate as much as possible the shifter exciters:

The DAEX58FP worked fine with this application, but really did not like the rattle. Also it needed to work with a little higher frequencies. I also tried at that time to put the Dayton BST-2 at same place - again it produced the same perceivable effect, made no sense to use it for this purpose as there was literally no difference.

At the end I decided to give the Pucks one more go. It looked to me the default plastic mounts are not making good contact. I modified a design on Thingiverse for Dayton Puck holder and adjusted it to 8040 extrusion spacing. Now it works on both the alu profile and on the Fanatec shifter. At this time I have one on the side as pictured below and one on the other side mounted to the shifter. Both of them are connected in parallel to a single channel. This mount being lower profile the puck contacts directly with the surface beneath, now effect is better. I remained with this setup for the last 2-3 months, it is satisfactory. Wanted a little more pronounced effect, but still quite nice. Engine vibrations and gear change is felt very nicely in the Heusinkveld SQ shifter even with the bulky Bride handle (it is all aluminum, so it transfers vibrations well). When shifting with the SQ there is quite good deep vibration which compliments greatly its feel. When I try without vibrations it is immediately apparent something is missing. The Fanatec shifter also has very good solid feel, as log as the knob is in gear. The Puck vibrations are transduced much more effectively now, even with the aftermarket know (it is not solid, but has deep screw hole so now shifter is much shorter). Either way when driving it is most of the time in gear so I always feel the engine and when shifting have very satisfying additional jolt:

As I added Next Level V3 Motion platform shaker mount redesign was needed. I mounted them with two filed down Right angle brackets (they have longer screw hole) directly on the bolts holding the bottom part of the seat. It required a little convincing as it has about 5mm difference, but easily achievable. Belts are mounted on the third hole, as they have to be attached to the moving part of the platform:



Overall this was great improvement. Now I am driving the Auras at 70% volume and their effects are totally isolated from each other and easily felt on the side, as I would expect them to be. The feel is very direct and paired with the motion seat it is amazing. Seat is mounted on 4 rubber dampers only because seat mounting holes on platform and seat have 1cm difference between and I needed something to bridge it. Now everything is totally disconnected from the rig and vibrations stay in the seat exactly where they should be:

I bought one more Aura for pedal plate, so now both BST-1s are mounted on the seat. One is screwed directly to the back rest, the other is mounted below on one side to a 3030 extrusion and on the other directly to the lower seat. The 3030 profile itself is held by some washers on the side and zip-tied to the back brace of the seat. It also holds the very powerful 65kg belt tensioner, using it for months without issue - still solid construction:



The feel from both BST-1 on the seat with jump landing effect is amazing. I also put on them engine sound, but toned down as it is not very pleasant constantly rumbling on the back.

Having changed Dayton BST-1 for an Aura in front gave me opportunity to compare how both work. Auras are definitely better at very low frequencies, less than 40Hz. There they pack good punch, but from then up the feel I got was identical with both mounted below the pedal plate. With proper isolation and placement it looks at least to me some money can be saved with choosing Dayton over Aura. Yet again I still feel the Auras on the seat giving me better spectrum and more complete feel, is it worth the price difference - no idea.

I also switched to Heusinkveld Ultimate+ pedal set and Sim-Lab inverted mount. This required rework of the front bass shakers.

The central engine/jump landing was easy - just mounted on the top frame above pedals:

Bottom ones required some more imagination, I reused my previous idea and mounted them top down. They are isolated with rubber dampers from frame, both are separate and pedal plate will screw on each side hoping I will have distinctive left and right:

All of this was mounted together on the rig:

The top bass shaker feels quite well. Some vibrations propagate through the frame, but are dampened a lot from the side plates. I was thinking on a solution to dampen them, but after testing realized it is not that needed, especially when I am using it for gear and engine effects. It dampens enough that I do not feel delayed vibrations someplace else on the rig.

The bottom shakers are another story. I am still being plagued by vibrations everywhere in the rig coming from the front "wheels". This is mainly due to the dampers design, the bolt that holds the pedal plate goes in, touches the bottom mount and literally the damper is bypassed. I fixed them before by somewhat keep the V3 plates not very tight. Also I think the bottom inbuilt screw in the damper is a little long and touches the profile, I have to keep them a little unwound to minimize vibrations. As I really had no time to deal with it tested it like that - still works good, top shaker is fine, but loosing bottom ones feel. I am waiting some other dampers now, little smaller but with built in screws on both side. They should be rubber all the way and have no other mechanical connection, based on the experience I have with isolating the seat I hope they will do the trick.

 

[blekenbleu]

the deep effect achievable with the EPs, as they have bigger moving mass multiplied by metal spider

EPs' metal spider amounts to a stiffer spring,
which would tend to shift their resonances higher.
Their relatively bulky finned part is polymer,
thus neither very massive nor effective for heat dissipation.

Thanks for the discussion about shifter tactile;
I have yet to try any and will review your approach if/when.
So far as the bottom shakers, if dampers are between the heel plate and chassis,
there may not be enough load on the plate to depress them
enough for motion not constrained by thru bolts.
For light loads, weaker dampers either side of flanges are wanted:
bolt head - flange - damper - flange - damper - washer - nut.

On a totally different topic, by attaching active harness belts via supplied anchor brackets,
servo arms are effectively lengthened, which means that servos are more likely to stall
than achieve full 180 degree excursions, making them more liable to overheating...
but I'm happy to hear that 65Kg units are surviving; their supplied bracket arms
are enough longer than those for 35Kg servos that they are in theory limited to
about the same tension when arms are perpendicular to belt tension.
Proper bearings instead of plastic bushings at non-driven pivots presumably help.

 

[StuyoDGr8]

So far as the bottom shakers, if dampers are between the heel plate and chassis,
there may not be enough load on the plate to depress them
enough for motion not constrained by thru bolts.
For light loads, weaker dampers either side of flanges are wanted:
bolt head - flange - damper - flange - damper - washer - nut.

Thanks for the insight, this would be the case it seem. The new dampers are 30x20mm with M8 screws, hope they will do the trick. Will test with 4 and 8 and see how it goes. As in the current construction they are carrying only the heelplate it will be very little load on them, 4 could be enough. This is what I ordered:

On a totally different topic, by attaching active harness belts via supplied anchor brackets,
servo arms are effectively lengthened, which means that servos are more likely to stall

The 65kg servos really hold up very well, they are under heavy use for the past months - other than the occasional Arduino crash which needs it restarted, no other issues. The lengthened arms are welcome in my case as I use less servo rotation and have higher speed. I ordered the servos with all metal gearing and accessories, it is rock solid, metal brackets are much thicker than the 35kg variant. The placement is not my first choice, but needed them down as the belts are somewhat long and I do not want to cut them. I really like the simplicity of the system and ease of build. Also the strength they deliver is immense - at full lock it really hurts my shoulders, so I limited them to 50deg rotation only. I measured at full lock - servos are drawing about 3.86A, measured at the lock I am using it - it was below 3A - I presume the motor will hold up for long time under these loads.

 

[blekenbleu]

30x20mm with M8 screws, hope they will do the trick

Those should isolate better in shear (perpendicular to threaded shanks)
than tension/compression.

servos are drawing about 3.86A

Nearly 30 Watts continuous seems a lot;
when servos get uncomfortably hot to touch,
they are at risk.

 

[Mr Latte]

Nice progress on your build and own journey with tactile....

Regards the DAEX32EP-4 Thruster 40W exciters and issues with those. To help others, can you show a screenshot of your effects/settings that may have caused the units to fail.

Some people are blowing them, yet others have them operating for months already with no issues. Having 6 fail, rules out the likelihood of faulty components and more an issue regards the output they were handling.

I worked with some others recently on several DSP settings in testing these exciters for the t.racks mini amplifier or standalone DSP units that lots of people have bought for these. We applied safety measures to protect the units but also tune their output to highlight better some of the frequency range they are good at handling.

Without DSP then....
The first thing we would recommend, is apply a crossover within Simhub to restrict them from the lowest bass and then to use the crossover to also limit their top end and avoid them acting like speakers. This way yes they are being used like a transducer, but one that operates similar to a TST unit with the ability to apply these to specific components or body regions.

The primary problem seems to be wattage/output-related.

You have some people in places advising users how to apply volumes for Simhub regards the global Simhub volume and the Effects Gain slider.
When testing, what they say, it does not align with the measurements I took with my own cards, so who's advice you follow is your own decision.

Further Info:
The "Test" output within Simhub can blow the exciters as it is very strong and outputs @45Hz which is within the peak output for many budget transducers and exciters. I already spoke to BuTonZ about this recently and that it should have a warning to reduce volume.

People that have their Simhub Global Volume at 100% are not restricting the potential soundcard output gain that is then going into their amps pre-amplification. This enables a scenario of the output from the card being too hot and no soundcard I know of performs with less noise/distortion when it is set to 100%.

On more than one occasion, I have looked at and compared by measurements using Cubase Pro 11 with various advanced metering plugins/tools. How the output gain differs with different settings. Here are 3 scenarios based on my own tests....

A) Simhub global 100% - Effect Gain at 50%.
B) Simhub Global 50% - Effect Gain at 100%
C) Simhub Global 100% - Effect Gain at 100%

Against what others may say....

"A" output more than "B"
"A" offers no safe limit to the max output, as a user can easily apply "C" scenario taking *(potentially multiple effects gain sliders) beyond 50% and all the way up to 100%.

When you have people use "B" then even with effects gain layers set to max at 100% you are controlling the limit for the max output of the source signal going into your amplifier.

Simhub/Soundcard/Amp - Configure Test
1. Apply "B" scenario with the effect layer gain at 100%
2. Apply a crossover or DSP to limit/control the units operation
3. Test peak output with different effects using 40-50Hz
4. Gradually increase amplifier volume to a level that feels good
5. Once you define this you have found the max limit
6. You should no longer need to change the amp volume
7. Now just apply folder or separate effect volume sliders to your preference

If you keep the Simhub Global volume at 50%.
The only way the output will increase is when you have multiple effects overlapping (and they will overlap) as the generated frequencies are not only what you apply in settings. So even allow for a small increase in the amplitude of output for this scenario by using the amp volume just below the region that you want as max.

Doing this means you can safely apply upto 100% effect slider gain and know your max output is still within the controlled limits you put in place.

Additional:
Note that not all soundcards output the same level, we also discovered with metering that Simhub is not always consistent with its output levels over the different channels with tests being applied. Also on some cards, including onboard audio, do not be surprised if you feel/get higher output from the stereo channels to other channels.

This and Simhub varations, however, showed to be more apparent when a soundcard/Simhub Global is set to 100% as we witnessed some meter levels go higher than others over the different channels with the exact same test ran 3 times and with same volumes applied.

Hope its some help....


ISOLATION TIP:
The basic rubber isolators you shared, I showed a guy 2 years ago this trick below and is somewhere on the forums...

Its possible to buy male-female versions and insert/sandwich one of those inside top/bottom rubber feet that you have on your seat. If you require a cheap and improved isolation solution.

 

[StuyoDGr8]

Nearly 30 Watts continuous seems a lot;

I totally agree, but this is full lock which really hurts my shoulders. The comfortable lock I measured it draws between 2.4 to 2.6 amps, which paired together is right about the max step down module amperage - if supercaps were not used I would have to switch it for bigger module.

Regards the DAEX32EP-4 Thruster 40W exciters and issues with those. To help others, can you show a screenshot of your effects/settings that may have caused the units to fail.

Currently I am away from the rig for some time but will check the profiles. I still am using the same ones as before since switching to the new exciters.

Overall these are the main points I figured out:

1. Do not use SimHub testing feature - as you say it's output is too powerful and is not governed by main volume
2. SimHub master volume in different games is 55-60-65 based on game output, everything about 65% volume is too much for me. Do not have effect volume at the top of my head, but I think it was about 100% for ground effects on the exciters. When using gear shift on them i belive it was much lower, 60 or 70% to keep amplitude down.
3. All effects I put start at 48Hz and above for the DAEX32EP-4s. Everything below produces very nice feel, but too big amplitude. I really liked how it feels with the shifters, but gear shift effect kills it fast.
4. At the end I put only ground surface effects on the seat with the 4 exciters. It feels quite good, very deep feel. Mixing another effect even with high frequency again produced rattling and high amplitude, so I stopped doing it
5. At the end I had two non-broken exciters down on the seat plates and two broken on top back rest. They worked quite well for 2 months or even more, I think I killed one of the bottom one when I put wrong channel on it - was totally my mistake.
6. Using effects based on consistent noise, like ground, speed or engine sound, works pretty well with the exciters and keeps them safer. Every other effect I tested, which involves sudden shifts was somewhat dangerous, every now and then it would hit resonance and get wide amplitude. When I mix both type of effects I will get the audible clanking and big amplitude almost constantly, which at the end will kill the spider.
7. Also I have a feeling the metal spring gets "tired" after some use - on the shakers, which survived, I noticed spring did not look so hard any more, also was not completely flat as it was in the beginning.
8. Everything usable was far below the DAEX32EP-4 resonance frequency of 200Hz. Above 80-90 I did not like the effects they are producing, also after 70-75 if remember correctly i started having audible noise.

N.B.: All effects volume is based only on SimHub setting. I am using USB amps, so the signal they receive is digital and did not bother to change much more. They have no controls in Windows, when I change something it goes back to same level - SimHub takes control of all settings, lock them and I change them only there.

ISOLATION TIP:
The basic rubber isolators you showed, I showed a guy 2 years ago this trick...
Its possible to buy male-female versions and insert/sandwich one of those inside top/bottom rubber feet that you have on your seat. If you require a cheap and improved isolation solution.

I was thinking to make the same. Issue is I am very limited in height, so still need to maintain relatively low profile. When I return will continue with setting up pedals properly, will try to put them higher somehow and see what space I have left then. Issue with HE Ultimates is that they are quite long pedals, so everything till now was pretty tight fit.

I was thinking of experimenting with some Eluflex SF dampers, but shipping is too expensive on those and I have no idea which ones to buy at the moment, so will wait a little and complete the testing what I currently ordered. As far as as I can see from their specifications, they will actually pretty well fit below the heel plate rails much simplifying my design.

 

[HemlockMcGee]

I was thinking of experimenting with some Eluflex SF dampers, but shipping is too expensive on those and I have no idea which ones to buy at the moment, so will wait a little and complete the testing what I currently ordered. As far as as I can see from their specifications, they will actually pretty well fit below the heel plate rails much simplifying my design.

View attachment 559685

Any words on this yet?

 

[StuyoDGr8]

Any words on this yet?

Yes, actually had lot to report. I added a NLR Motion Plus unit, which required rework in the front end.
In the meantime my new Aliexspress dampers arrived. As suggested by both @blekenbleu and @Mr Latte advised above and in my build log the isolators were not correct rating and I could not compress them enough to properly isolate the vibrations.

I switched to 25x30mm dampers, also opted for the bolt on both sides type as it has less contact inside the rubber dampers itself:

I was sure vertical placement of the shakers will not be very satisfying, but wanted to see for myself and check how vibrations will travel through frame:



At the end as expected I placed both shakers horizontally as follows:
h

Having them places directly on both sides bolted to the pedal plate the feel is totally new experience. Finally the small dampers isolate properly so nothing travels to the rig. I am able to drive the auras at 60 or 65% volume, which is lower than before and yet again they feel very powerful. I added jump landing on both of them and now the effect feels exactly the same as the one coming under and on the back of my seat from the Dayton BST-1s.

Running them now in lower volume I can also clearly discern the directional effects as well. Having only pedal plate disconnected from the inverted pedals helps a lot here to localize the effects. I am still running the top mounted Aura, which adds engine vibrations to the pedals. The inverted mount does good job at isolating the top Aura - not much vibrations travel past it, I do not feel any delay coming from there to other rig parts. This particular shaker does not add much, as it is somewhat faint compared to all the rest, but still nice addition.

Now having added the Motion Plus is totally another thing. It turns out it provides great tactile response as well, something that is not clearly marketed anywhere. Engine rumble coming from the NRL Motion Plus is very convincing, now the front end feels exactly like in real car. Also it manages to simulate suspension work very accurately. At first I tried it my front shakers were not connected. The feel was so good I started having doubts if even I need the front CM shakers at all. Either way, I added them back. Now they just compliment the platform, but work pretty well together. Adding jump landing to them was great step too - now when I jump in Dirt Rally 2 I get the suspension work from the platform and then the delayed deep vibration that goes through the pedal plate and seat from the Jump Landing - it feels spot on.

Having the platform in the front is great, but on the back it feels now "empty". The V3 mover works very well together with the motion plus, but you feel the tactile only in front - it stays very localized. I also tested when friends play what happens to the floor - I feel very little vibrations going below the platform.

This being said above the two rear Auras came in play for chassis mode effects. Having them placed directly on the side rails of the seat they work great and having them for suspension effects works surprisingly well paired with the motion plus. I have to say it feels almost the same as it feels now in the front Platform + Shakers (till now I always was missing a lot there). Now with the new isolators it finally feels balanced front to back.

 

[StuyoDGr8]

Had to ditch the DAEX30HESF from seat side as did bot like how they perform. Vibrations from them were traversing through whole backrest and were felt mainly in the center of the back. Also vibrations felt with higher frequency then what I set in SimHub. Side feel was very faint, much less than what was going to the center of backrest. Had to return my 4x DAEX32EP-4 setup, this time putting the upper exciter a little more down. Have 2x unbroken and 2x with one broken arm. I am using them now only for wheel lock effects, also being careful in testing mode not to break them. Currently at 75% volume the feel is very good - strong, deep and localised, pretty happy with the result.



Having now some spare DAEX30HESFs i found new placement for them - shifter shakers. For this purpose they are great, I put on them engine sound, shift and gear grinding. Engine vibrations are felt in both shifters and handbrake - really feels the same as in my real car. Every time I go to shift/handbrake I can definitely recognise at what revs is my engine. Left shaker is in the usual placement:

For the right one found the perfect place on my BDH shifter:



Short demo video: