DIY 3-Pedal set

I've made a DIY pedal set to replace T3PA pedals from Thrustmaster.
The aim here is to achieve a better feeling (heavier pedals overall) while keeping the cost as low as possible. I've used a technical info from Heusinkveld pedals as a reference.

CAD files can be downloaded HERE

Photo 07-01-2019, 00 38 07.jpg

Photo 07-01-2019, 00 38 04.jpg

IMG_2777.JPG

IMG_2778.JPG

IMG_2732.JPG
 
Nice!
Are you using a potentiometer for the brake, does that work out together with the rubber? I'm asking because I'm assuming the potentiometer gives an output that's 1:1 with pedal travel, while the rubber gives more resistance in an exponential relation to pedal travel, right? So, I'm assuming that you'll have less resolution in the high pressure range and more resolution in the low pressure range?
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
Nice!
Are you using a potentiometer for the brake, does that work out together with the rubber? I'm asking because I'm assuming the potentiometer gives an output that's 1:1 with pedal travel, while the rubber gives more resistance in an exponential relation to pedal travel, right? So, I'm assuming that you'll have less resolution in the high pressure range and more resolution in the low pressure range?

Hi. Thanks mate!
The rubber is rather hard actually and it acts like a packer so that I've got to slam on the brake to lock up. I'd say it starts to do its job when I reach the 90% of travel.

Yes, you're correct. But I've tweaked out the preload of the spring as well as in-game brake input curve so that it feels natural. I'm not too worried about the resolution though since I -- or most of us -- can't feel a single step out of 4000 steps when applying brakes.

So yeah, considering I've made it with a budget that I got from selling T3PA ($100ish), I'm sure it's a decent kit and my consistency got improved, which was also a mandatory thing to achieve as I race in VEC (up to 24hrs of endurance racing).
 
Upvote 0
Hi. Thanks mate!
The rubber is rather hard actually and it acts like a packer so that I've got to slam on the brake to lock up. I'd say it starts to do its job when I reach the 90% of travel.

Yes, you're correct. But I've tweaked out the preload of the spring as well as in-game brake input curve so that it feels natural. I'm not too worried about the resolution though since I -- or most of us -- can't feel a single step out of 4000 steps when applying brakes.

So yeah, considering I've made it with a budget that I got from selling T3PA ($100ish), I'm sure it's a decent kit and my consistency got improved, which was also a mandatory thing to achieve as I race in VEC (up to 24hrs of endurance racing).
Ah I see, tweaking the input curve makes sense and you're obviously right about the single steps. May I ask how much you spent and how many hours of work you put in? I think it's an awesome set you built there, very nice! (and cool stuff with the endurance racing)
 
Upvote 0
Ah I see, tweaking the input curve makes sense and you're obviously right about the single steps. May I ask how much you spent and how many hours of work you put in? I think it's an awesome set you built there, very nice! (and cool stuff with the endurance racing)

It costed me about $120, but I had spare stuff from steering wheel (I was running this business, it’s now sold to a new owner tho) so that definitely helped me lower the cost.

Not sure my memory is accurate but I’d say 3-4 days for designing, then a week to actually make it. It took longer than that as I couldn’t find time to work on it much but the total production time must’ve been something like that.
Thanks! Hope this helps!
 
Upvote 0
Back
Top