DIY push/pull rally shifter, sculpted paddle modeled after 2000cc Subaru from Dirt Rally 2.0. Combination of metal fab and printed parts. Working on other paddles as well as the arm/knob arrangement from Peugot R5/R2 but I've been racing 2000cc in JRC so that was prioritized.
Momo Mod 78 rim matches at least 50% of the cars in Dirt Rally 2.0 and feels great in the hands. This one is 320mm and leather. Hundreds of hours on it with no gloves and still looks brand new.
Baseplate mounted on face of CSW using the sacred cow screws Fanatec and some people are inexplicably weird about. Bolts used are 6mm longer so thread engagement is the same and they're torqued the same so.
I also printed a 1/2" (12.7mm) spacer that interlocks on a Podium hub, needed more space and wanted to be able to use my horn button. Could be printed any length and is super solid because the mount screws go through the wheel into the hub with the spacer compressed between them. Making a new spacer soon that will have 10 small buttons and 2 axes since they're going to waste without any buttons on the rim.
Magnets are 1/2"x1/8" N52 Neodymium, rated at 7.5-8lbs ea. Mechanism has 6 in it for this paddle. Longer extensions will require more magnets to maintain crisp kinematics but at this length 6 feels really nice.
Wire harness sheathed with nylon mesh and heavy duty shrink tubing at the ends. Shifter mounts to base on a 15mm t-slot rail (MakerBeam XL) and has 30mm of side to side adjustment. I have different length versions in 10mm increments of the printed interface between t slot and stem, to adjust projection when needed.
Wired mine the same way Ascher did theirs, makes swapping with other devices or modding this one super easy with the breakaway and also easy to adapt to other bases.
Schematic for wiring paddles to a Fanatec wheelbase in Shifter2 port. Blue/1 is ground, red/4 is push and black/5 is pull. I'll have a breakaway connector in the middle of the cable so the shifter can be easily removed/installed where the stem meets the base.
Some of the drill jigs I printed since I don't have a mill to control precise center to center tolerance plus this makes it easy to make more. The holes are printed oversize to hold hardened drill bushings. They're expensive so the jigs share the few bushings I have.
Couldn't find the stated dimensions for the center to center of the bolts I wanted to use even after posting here so made some measurements and guesses then used cheapo printed partials as verification coupons till I had the right spacing.
Evolution of my take on the sculpted paddle from 2000cc Subaru rally cars. Don't know what it's called and have no pics of it so stare at it in VR then model it from memory, print and start the process over. Eventually I landed close enough to move on. It's super ergonomic though with that angle and dish
...it's a wip and I'll be posting updates on it here as I finish more configurations for it.
Momo Mod 78 rim matches at least 50% of the cars in Dirt Rally 2.0 and feels great in the hands. This one is 320mm and leather. Hundreds of hours on it with no gloves and still looks brand new.
Baseplate mounted on face of CSW using the sacred cow screws Fanatec and some people are inexplicably weird about. Bolts used are 6mm longer so thread engagement is the same and they're torqued the same so.
I also printed a 1/2" (12.7mm) spacer that interlocks on a Podium hub, needed more space and wanted to be able to use my horn button. Could be printed any length and is super solid because the mount screws go through the wheel into the hub with the spacer compressed between them. Making a new spacer soon that will have 10 small buttons and 2 axes since they're going to waste without any buttons on the rim.
Magnets are 1/2"x1/8" N52 Neodymium, rated at 7.5-8lbs ea. Mechanism has 6 in it for this paddle. Longer extensions will require more magnets to maintain crisp kinematics but at this length 6 feels really nice.
Wire harness sheathed with nylon mesh and heavy duty shrink tubing at the ends. Shifter mounts to base on a 15mm t-slot rail (MakerBeam XL) and has 30mm of side to side adjustment. I have different length versions in 10mm increments of the printed interface between t slot and stem, to adjust projection when needed.
Wired mine the same way Ascher did theirs, makes swapping with other devices or modding this one super easy with the breakaway and also easy to adapt to other bases.
Schematic for wiring paddles to a Fanatec wheelbase in Shifter2 port. Blue/1 is ground, red/4 is push and black/5 is pull. I'll have a breakaway connector in the middle of the cable so the shifter can be easily removed/installed where the stem meets the base.
Some of the drill jigs I printed since I don't have a mill to control precise center to center tolerance plus this makes it easy to make more. The holes are printed oversize to hold hardened drill bushings. They're expensive so the jigs share the few bushings I have.
Couldn't find the stated dimensions for the center to center of the bolts I wanted to use even after posting here so made some measurements and guesses then used cheapo printed partials as verification coupons till I had the right spacing.
Evolution of my take on the sculpted paddle from 2000cc Subaru rally cars. Don't know what it's called and have no pics of it so stare at it in VR then model it from memory, print and start the process over. Eventually I landed close enough to move on. It's super ergonomic though with that angle and dish
...it's a wip and I'll be posting updates on it here as I finish more configurations for it.
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