I think theyre great.
I can drive round brands hatch and barely touch the break in the Audi. Just honestly mate floor it and at those critical turning spots (I call them) slam the breaks on and turn...feel the cars balance and TRUST in the grip.
Sometimes at least try to left foot brake - you would be surprised at how much you save and become more efficient so to speak in your driving. If you do not already. I am going to guess you are out of sync/feel with the cars.
Watch those slip angles because you may just not be giving them enough of the turn they need, or by now over thinking it. Remember that grip can come back with the turn and friction is always happening if those wheels are spinning, a few degrees is nothing and may serve you well, so do not think you need a straight line. Cars probably get the most grip when the rubber is being warped in some manner anyway.
And then wonder if you are lining up the turn just fine, sometimes you may want to rely on the above and turn a little early if your mind/hands are not lining up with whats happening in the game/on screen.
So the answer was probably practice to dial it in - and when practicing do not be worried about going slower in order to nail each turn.
Remember people have driven round these tracks 100s/1000s of times.
Don't thank me. Thank Nigel Mansell for doing the exact same thing at a shopping center once. I saw it online. Sure I knew of the guy from Microprose grand prix in 1992/3 on the Amiga another english thing, and I am out in the colonies haha, but if I can pick it up from that, then I am hoping this is going to help out.
Setup I just take diff down a notch and soften front spring. But I could probably do ok on the default, but make no mistake I get frustrated if its not tuned to how I personally like. Because I am not that good but for some reason I do well with that
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If for some reason its not clicking then these cars are the perfect thing to employ the youtube based online racing academy guys instructional videos
And when you soften/if you do the front suspension do not be afraid to then change the camber up a notch or two on the front. And adjust down the suspension speed a click for each, bump and rebound etc.
Sometimes thats over tuning it and you can back off on one. If you go around adjusting the suspension often its not pushing onto the road well as it used to, and secondary changes may help out.
With the audi for example, by then, my best driving comes when I adjust the diff to 195 or 200. Thats UP one/two notches. Its twitchier but makes it often better unless I am tired/feeling slow. Because the suspension is slow, and I am guessing the contact patch is still fat and wonderful on the road, I need the 195 adjustment to match it.
And then the brake bias is almost always 60% to the front or above. I map the change to my wheel. So I try to get comfortable in the car and map starter and fuel/engine-start to the wheel so I just push the knob then turn it.
Then like anything in the game it will take a couple laps in practice and maybe even race to get the best laps/push it hardest. So drive at least 3 laps I would say before you throw away a session in frustration. If the game has a car reset back on road button then I would map it (have not looked actually)
So anyway feel where the throttle comes on, and go round the spot of 50%-75% and work round that - you never want to be far away from the spot where it picks up so you can adjust throttle, same with brakes - squeeze them hard but not too hard... for brands its easy, you come around in 3rd or 4th squeeze for a squeal to 2/1, then 2nd accel, then 4th down into 2nd for turn up hill, then its fast down 1, fast up 1, down 2, then etc etc.
So you are barely moving too far from center at all times. Get a rythym and begin to maintain a constant predictable speed; i.e the highest possible constant speed without too many peaks or valleys apart from what the tracks gives you. So in order to do that you may trail brake gently through much of a turn for the spot where you know you can accelerate hard, usually half way through the thing (there is only 1 on brands thats going up the hill to the left the turn before the hill, 4th down to 2nd/3rd and accelerate asap up the hill). After that one the next long(er) bend to the right you coast round that basically, then drop down 1 gear and hard brake, accel, then drop down 2 wide left to right, sometimes 1 gear if you can cut it on the inside and no one is there or whatnot, accel, try to cut the next one going left then its onto the straight a bit later/couple of turns.
So everything is done just enough - brake just enough and limit the braking to one time and the least amount of hard pressing possible... (to explain, brake in 5 meters of track rather than 20 meters if possible) it unless its speed related braking where you want to gradually press it through a turn/line up the acceleration point and accelerate hard in the right spots just enough and the end result should be something smooth.
Sounds basic I know - but with most of the DTM's they handle really well. It should be possible in them all. And you can probably do it one handed in a simulator like I did a lap or 2 earlier. Because its a straightforward track brands. Brake and turn let the grip sort it out.
Seriously though, the new DTMs are very, very touchy on the throttle. When that turbo kicks in it's incredibly easy to lose the rear. The key is to be ultra-patient and not get on the throttle too early. It does take time but isn't impossible... we ran a successful series with these cars shortly after their release and most people did ok.
