Fanatec Clubsport Pedals v3 Brakes issue

[BP]

I had 2 nice 15 minute races in rF2 last night (GT3 class @ Road Atlanta...awesome track!). Before doing the race, I remember I had adjusted the force needed for 100% brake (the "set max" button) on the fanatec CSP properties page (like the image below). I wanted to see if I could use more force since it's easier to modulate brake pressure with a harder brake pedal, as is well documented all over RD.

(not my original picture, borrowed it from a google search)


Anyways, I wake up this morning to do a quick drive before work and..brake pedal is dead in rF2. Quit and came back out to the same Fanatec properties page and nothing from the brakes, but throttle and clutch work perfectly...even the vibration motors on the brakes were fine. Short on time, I went to work thinking all day that I had broken the load cell somehow (even though I figured my foot can't be that strong). Just got home and started troubleshooting...the fix was quite simple: Disable manual mode. When it switched over to Auto-Calibration mode the brakes were good as new. Maybe I surpassed the limit of the load cell during calibration and after restarting the computer the drivers didn't know what to do?

I proceeded to recalibrate my pedals manually and now all is well again. In case anyone is wondering why I don't leave it on auto-calibration and adjust the brake pressure using the slider: the throttle and clutch calibrations are weird IMO. In Auto-Cal, the throttle doesn't use its entire travel to get to 100% (more like around 80%) and that limits how sensitive I can be with throttle application. With the clutch I like to increase the minimum value so I can rest my foot lightly on the clutch while racing without triggering the clutch.

Don't know why it happened, but hey...just FYI for the RD community.

 

[AlBell1967]

I have had a similar issue a few months ago but mine was caused by the self adjusting of the nut that determines the the pushing force. I call it self adjusting because it backs itself out now and again and messes the brake up to the point of not working at all.

 

[BP]

I have had a similar issue a few months ago but mine was caused by the self adjusting of the nut that determines the the pushing force. I call it self adjusting because it backs itself out now and again and messes the brake up to the point of not working at all.

Interesting...which model do you have (v1, v2, v3, v3 inverted)? I have the v3 inverted...if you are talking about the Pre-load screw (the one with the 1-2-3-4-5 markings on it), from what I can tell mine hasn't moved. I am using the Brake Performance Kit in mine though, so don't know if that makes a difference; the preload screw has a very limited range with those stiffer Elastomer springs installed.

 

[AlBell1967]

Interesting...which model do you have (v1, v2, v3, v3 inverted)? I have the v3 inverted...if you are talking about the Pre-load screw (the one with the 1-2-3-4-5 markings on it), from what I can tell mine hasn't moved. I am using the Brake Performance Kit in mine though, so don't know if that makes a difference; the preload screw has a very limited range with those stiffer Elastomer springs installed.

I have the V3i pedals all stock. I also removed that useless damper a few weeks ago. The pedals feel so much better without it.

 

[BP]

I have the V3i pedals all stock. I also removed that useless damper a few weeks ago. The pedals feel so much better without it.

Agreed that the damper just feels weird, but it gets even better with the performance kit. Whereas the preload screw is just putting an abrupt stop to movement after a certain amount of travel (which to me feels unnatural and like I'm gonna brake the pedal assembly), the kit gives a more progressive resistance, especially when mixing different springs, so it feels more natural than I could ever get the stock setup to feel. After a month or two of going back and forth, I settled on the 12mm green/13mm green combo and my car control and consistency has improved immensely...gotten much faster as a result.

When you have to really push hard against progressive resistance to get the car to lockup (as opposed to the brick-wall preload screw approach), your foot eventually learns where that limit is and then you can add so much more nuance, getting the car to rotate consistently in corners is much easier afterward.

Sorry I get carried away, but I love these pedals

 

[AlBell1967]

Agreed that the damper just feels weird, but it gets even better with the performance kit. Whereas the preload screw is just putting an abrupt stop to movement after a certain amount of travel (which to me feels unnatural and like I'm gonna brake the pedal assembly), the kit gives a more progressive resistance, especially when mixing different springs, so it feels more natural than I could ever get the stock setup to feel. After a month or two of going back and forth, I settled on the 12mm green/13mm green combo and my car control and consistency has improved immensely...gotten much faster as a result.

When you have to really push hard against progressive resistance to get the car to lockup (as opposed to the brick-wall preload screw approach), your foot eventually learns where that limit is and then you can add so much more nuance, getting the car to rotate consistently in corners is much easier afterward.

Sorry I get carried away, but I love these pedals

No need to apologize at all! I have a brake kit on order and it will ship with my DD1 next Friday (hopefully). These are the best pedals I have had so far and they are great as far as I am concerned. My damper is kind of messed up. I seems to have an air bubble in it. I used to do radio control cars and the damper is just an over sized RC shock and mine feel like one that has lost some of the oil. One of these days i will open it up and see what is what and maybe replace the oil and bleed it and see what it feels like then.

 

[BP]

No need to apologize at all! I have a brake kit on order and it will ship with my DD1 next Friday (hopefully). These are the best pedals I have had so far and they are great as far as I am concerned. My damper is kind of messed up. I seems to have an air bubble in it. I used to do radio control cars and the damper is just an over sized RC shock and mine feel like one that has lost some of the oil. One of these days i will open it up and see what is what and maybe replace the oil and bleed it and see what it feels like then.

Unless you really like to troubleshoot things, I wouldn’t bother; I have yet to find anyone online who prefers the damper to the brake kit. Plus, the damper is slow in releasing the pedal after braking...which might work well for Euro/American Truck Simulator, but sucks for racing

 

[asteroulis]

Guys I need some help if anybody knows something here.

Every time I reboot my pc I need to manualy calibrate my csp's v3. Last firmware installed this is pretty annoying because I don't have the exact same brake forces in every session so I lose consistency.
Any ideas?

 

[BP]

Guys I need some help if anybody knows something here.

Every time I reboot my pc I need to manualy calibrate my csp's v3. Last firmware installed this is pretty annoying because I don't have the exact same brake forces in every session so I lose consistency.
Any ideas?

I recall having a similar issue in the past. I believe this is how I fixed it:

Calibrate the pedals using the "set max" and "set min" buttons like you normally would. Then, before you hit OK (or Apply then OK), hit the "test rumble brake" or "test rumble throttle" button. Then hit apply and OK.

For some reason, it doesn't permanently register the last calibration unless you click another button before hitting apply/OK. Once I did that it never reset again; that was about a year ago.

If that doesn't work...maybe your firmware got corrupted so try updating or reinstalling it (backup/write down your wheel presets before updating).

 

[360Modena]

Guys I need some help if anybody knows something here.

Every time I reboot my pc I need to manualy calibrate my csp's v3. Last firmware installed this is pretty annoying because I don't have the exact same brake forces in every session so I lose consistency.
Any ideas?

Hi,
I have the similar issue.

 

[BP]

Hi,
I have the similar issue.

Did you try my fix? It's right above your message.

 

[BP]

@asteroulis Did you try my suggestion and if so, did it work?

 

[asteroulis]

@asteroulis Did you try my suggestion and if so, did it work?

Yes, I tried it and still having the same issue. Sorry I forgot to answer. I've uninstalled and installed firmware but no change..

 

[360Modena]

Did you try my fix? It's right above your message.

Hi,
yes i try your fix and it works but i am using autocalibrate. Have the driver 328 for the padels instaled via usb. The strange thing is that I can´t apply i can only hit ok. Only if I make your fix it works. I am searching for the solution to have it in autocalibrate some days ago I didnt have this problems why now? When I see the issue after starting the pc and but of the usb and reconect the padels than its fine in autocalibrate mode. Perhaps someone have a solution otherwise i thing I will contact fanatec perhaps the loadcell is broken? Realy strange behavior.

 

[Robert Johnsson]

I recall having a similar issue in the past. I believe this is how I fixed it:

Calibrate the pedals using the "set max" and "set min" buttons like you normally would. Then, before you hit OK (or Apply then OK), hit the "test rumble brake" or "test rumble throttle" button. Then hit apply and OK.

For some reason, it doesn't permanently register the last calibration unless you click another button before hitting apply/OK. Once I did that it never reset again; that was about a year ago.

If that doesn't work...maybe your firmware got corrupted so try updating or reinstalling it (backup/write down your wheel presets before updating).

This worked for me.

Many thanks!

 

[asteroulis]

It's so interesting , I've had no issue the last days , and today it appeared again..

 

[Harpo]

Brand new V3 inverted here, and experiencing major problems. Thread here: Fanatec Customer Support?

While the work-around you have discovered may temporarily solve your problems, it seems there are some major issues with the V3 pedals.

 

[TheOneAndOnlyNikolaus]

Had an issue with the V3inverted (almost no break function at start of race) and resolved the problem by changing the pedals from USB3 to USB2 port on my PC. Try to change the USB Portif that is possible in your setup.

Nikolaus

 

[Lurkusmaximus]

Had an issue with the V3inverted (almost no break function at start of race) and resolved the problem by changing the pedals from USB3 to USB2 port on my PC. Try to change the USB Portif that is possible in your setup.

Nikolaus

Good advice. And don't use a hub. I did for almost a year with no issue, then the pedals got flaky. Sent them in and they could not reproduce. Had to completely reorient my rig to shorten the distance, but since they now connect direct into a USB 2.0 port, they have been much more stable.

 

[Christopher Snow]

I had 2 nice 15 minute races in rF2 last night (GT3 class @ Road Atlanta...awesome track!). Before doing the race, I remember I had adjusted the force needed for 100% brake (the "set max" button) on the fanatec CSP properties page (like the image below). I wanted to see if I could use more force since it's easier to modulate brake pressure with a harder brake pedal, as is well documented all over RD.

(not my original picture, borrowed it from a google search)


Anyways, I wake up this morning to do a quick drive before work and..brake pedal is dead in rF2. Quit and came back out to the same Fanatec properties page and nothing from the brakes, but throttle and clutch work perfectly...even the vibration motors on the brakes were fine. Short on time, I went to work thinking all day that I had broken the load cell somehow (even though I figured my foot can't be that strong). Just got home and started troubleshooting...the fix was quite simple: Disable manual mode. When it switched over to Auto-Calibration mode the brakes were good as new. Maybe I surpassed the limit of the load cell during calibration and after restarting the computer the drivers didn't know what to do?

I proceeded to recalibrate my pedals manually and now all is well again. In case anyone is wondering why I don't leave it on auto-calibration and adjust the brake pressure using the slider: the throttle and clutch calibrations are weird IMO. In Auto-Cal, the throttle doesn't use its entire travel to get to 100% (more like around 80%) and that limits how sensitive I can be with throttle application. With the clutch I like to increase the minimum value so I can rest my foot lightly on the clutch while racing without triggering the clutch.

Don't know why it happened, but hey...just FYI for the RD community.

I'm not so sure the throttle's "full throttle zone" at the top is a bad idea--I can recall a race at Monza where mine would only calibrate to 99%, and I was just left for dead in what otherwise would have been an equal car. That's all it took. So, IMO, I think I would prefer what you have now to the alternative. Which has me wondering if I'm getting full throttle or not, and I'm using V3's right now too. A fellow league mate was just rocketing away from me last night down the main straight, and now you've got me wondering...for which I'll say thanks. I hadn't considered that until just now.