Fanatec CSL DD -Mclaren GT3 V2 Fail

ok, had to do it a few times, No torque wrench so tried to not overtighten. 1st time failed after a few corners, then whole base got disconnected during moving the clip around. Now it lasted it least a Nords lap after tighnting it up some more after every device was found again. So looking better.

Was starting to think I had to RMA.
 
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I'm wondering what's the actual effect of changing the shaft position..
Apparently it has something to do with the wireless connection (since it can spin indefinitely, not only 900° until the cable gets twisted too much like most other bases).
I'm wondering what changes when rotating the shaft a little bit.
Might be that some induction effects only work in a certain position and fanatec has too much tolerance in the shaft assembly...
 
I'm wondering what's the actual effect of changing the shaft position..
Apparently it has something to do with the wireless connection (since it can spin indefinitely, not only 900° until the cable gets twisted too much like most other bases).
I'm wondering what changes when rotating the shaft a little bit.
Might be that some induction effects only work in a certain position and fanatec has too much tolerance in the shaft assembly...
If it's a little bit loose and moves a little bit, the wheel gets disconnected. A little more, the base gets disconnected.

It's very sensitive
 
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It's very sensitive
It may not help at all, but Caig G100L makes e.g. iPhone Lightning connections less erratic.
Unless you spill it, a 1.6mL bottle will last for many applications.
G100L.jpg
 
1) SQ 1.5 H-pattern mode isn't recognized. When in that mode, both my rims would show the calibration menu without being able to actually calibrate. Not possible on driver page either. Sequential mode works.

I found the solution to this problem. It's so stupid you won't even believe it. I know I didn't until I actually did it myself: Your shifter came with two RJ12-style cables. Plug in the short one and it will calibrate fine. I read you can go back to the long one after that, but I personally just left the short one in.

As to the main topic at hand: I have the exact problem with the wheel disconnecting. I just tightened the wheel clamp per Lazarou's suggestion and it seems to be working at first glance. Thanks much; hopefully it's a permanent fix. Fanatec already set up an RMA so I'm glad I found this thread first.
 
I found the solution to this problem. It's so stupid you won't even believe it. I know I didn't until I actually did it myself: Your shifter came with two RJ12-style cables. Plug in the short one and it will calibrate fine. I read you can go back to the long one after that, but I personally just left the short one in.

As to the main topic at hand: I have the exact problem with the wheel disconnecting. I just tightened the wheel clamp per Lazarou's suggestion and it seems to be working at first glance. Thanks much; hopefully it's a permanent fix. Fanatec already set up an RMA so I'm glad I found this thread first.
That's great news Ron, hope it continues to work.

I am going to be asking for commission at this rate, the fix has already saved them three RMA's, must be worth at least a BMW M4 GT3 wheel :whistling:
 
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I found the solution to this problem. It's so stupid you won't even believe it. I know I didn't until I actually did it myself: Your shifter came with two RJ12-style cables. Plug in the short one and it will calibrate fine. I read you can go back to the long one after that, but I personally just left the short one in.

I haven't tried yet as I didn't feel like unmounting and undo the cable management.

I know about the short/long cable that worked for some. Use the short one to calibrate, once calibrated, long one works.
But with what I read, this was only part of the solution for most in the original thread.

They said they had to dismount the base, hold it tightly between your legs, do the calibration (with the short cable if the long one doesn't work). Repeat with every firmware update.

This seems even more ridiculous! They thought there might be some interference somewhere when mounted.
 
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I am going to be asking for commission at this rate, the fix has already saved them three RMA's, must be worth at least a BMW M4 GT3 wheel :whistling:

A sticker pack or button pack at most, just judging from their shipping cost -per product- they charge within the EU.
If you want more, get a YT channel and shill xD
 
Managed to calibrate the H-pattern mode without undoing the cable routing. Just base dismount and awkwardly holding it between the legs to be able to use the short cable to the shifter mounted on an arm to the right.
 
Judging from the images above I did it wrong, but it keeps working so far.

There is still a little distance between mine and the clamp is only halfway. I had to use quite a bit of force tightening it down (felt like a bit more than 15Nm) to stick, so that might have overcome the not quite correct positioning.

So I'm not gonna touch it unless the issues reappear.
 
Mine looks more like the first image on the left :whistling: but it is still working fine so like you @THK84 I am going to leave it well alone.

I am glad Fanatec have acknowledged it is a easy fix.
 
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I am glad Fanatec have acknowledged it is a easy fix.

I posted your solution to a couple of threads. So a few more counts for your reward xD

Funny to see how nobody there seems to browse through previous threads, so keep having to copy paste the same reply :)

These images however were posted by someone else, not Fanatec itself. They look like they're coming from a manual, but I could not find it on the Fanatec product page. So the person most likely had gotten this as a reply to a support ticket?

Anyway, a couple of the images seem official enough that they come from a yet to be released or internal manual. Or maybe instructions for the production line. It would be nice if they were in the actual manual on the product page.

I don't understand why they keep information like this and the rig grounding causing shifter issue and it's fixes out of the manuals. If I have an issue, 1st thing I do is see if there's anything in the manual. If there is info like this, my mind wouldn't jump to the product being flawed. But having to go to outside help or even a support ticket to find this stuff out does make me question product and QC quality.
 
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