FFB Setting Explanations

[2scoops]

Inverted FFB:
Enable it if your wheel pulls in the wrong direction.

FFB Intensity:
Adjusts the overall strength.

Smoothing:
Filters out peaks in the FFB, for example when driving over big kerbs.
Increase it if you think your wheel makes too much noise over kerbs.
Decrease it if you think the FFB feels washed out.
Recommended setting: between 0 - 50%



Steering Force Intensity:
Adjusts the forces generated from cornering.
Increase it to make the wheel stiffer and to get more feedback when the car is oversteering.
Decrease it if you experience clipping.
Recommended setting: between 100 - 150%

Understeer:
Controls how light the wheel will get when understeering.
Decrease if you loose force too quickly when entering a corner.
Increase if you can´t feel the grip loss when entering a corner.
Recommended setting: between 50 - 100%


Vertical Load:
Controls how strong vertical forces on the tyres are reflected in the FFB.
Mostly used to feel bumps on the road.
Increase to feel more details of the driving surface.
Decrease if bumps are too strong.
Recommended setting: between 100 - 200%

Lateral Force:
Controls how strong lateral forces on the tyres are reflected in the FFB.
Increase to make the wheel stiffer.
Decrease if the FFB looses too much detail (clipping).
Recommended setting: Between 25 - 75 %

Steering Rack:
Choose how much of the lateral forces are calculated using the steering rack of the car instead of the tyres.
Recommended setting: Personal preference





Engine Vibrations:
Intensity of vibrations generated by the engine of the car
Decrease if there is too much noise in the FFB
Increase to get more feedback from the engine.

Kerb Vibrations:
Adjust the amount of vibrations resulting from rumble strips (2D kerbs)
This setting does not affect forces coming from 3D kerbs (use vertical load & smoothing to adjust that).

Shift Effect:
Adjusts how strong the kick from shifting is.

FFB Meter
In the secondary controller settings you will find an option to bind a key for the FFB Meter.
Once enabled, the yellow line marks your minimum force setting, and the red line shows the maximum force.
The green graph displays the steering forces sent to your wheel.

If the graph exceeds the red line you are experiencing "Clipping"
Clipping means, that your wheel has reached the maximum output force and you won't feel any difference above that limit.

Minimum Force
The minimum Force Setting can be found in the FFB Settings Menu, and will allow you to amplify all the small FFB forces that your wheel might not be able to put out. That means small bumps and steering forces will be increased to a point where you can actually feel them through your wheel and thereby adding more details to your FFB.
This will also help eliminate the "dead center feeling" occurring with some of the wheels.

Slip Effect
This Effect simulates the shuttering of your tires as they struggle for grip,
which occurs for example during wheelspin, understeering, sliding and even on heavy braking.
Depending on the amount of grip as well as the rotation speed of your tires you will feel a vibration indicating that your tires are slipping.
The higher the rotation speed of your tires, the higher the frequency of the vibrations is.
The more grip your tires loose, the higher the amplitude of the vibration will be.


Stationary Friction
This will deal with the problem of wheels rotating by themselves if the car is stationary, for example in garage or on the starting grid.
This won't be an option you will find in the menu, and it only takes effect, if the car moves slower then a couple of meter per second.

FFB Multiplier
Since the FFB in R3E is based on the car physics (Tire load & grip + suspension geometry), different cars result in different FFB strength.
So in the past you might have found your perfect FFB settings for one car, only to find out they don't work as well with another car.
To avoid this, you are now able to adjust the cars individual FFB strength by changing the FFB Multiplier.
You will find this new Setting in the Car Setup>Steering Settings.
Increase the FFB Multiplier if a particular car feels too weak.
Decrease it, if the FFB of the car is causing heavy clipping.

Recommended Settings
1. Start by choosing the new default profile for your wheel in the Controller Profiles Menu. It contains presets for all the new settings.

2. To adjust the FFB strength individually per car, change the FFB Multiplier in the Car Setup>Steering Settings Menu

3. Depending on the Wheel you own, choose how much Clipping you want to allow.

• 
  
  
  • If you for example own a Logitech G27, you should aim for Mild Clipping values, in order not to loose too much of the overall FFB Strength.
  • If you own a high end, direct driven wheel you can easily set it up for Zero Clipping, for the maximum amount of detail.

 

[Chris Sercombe]

Great guide thankyou.

 

[Kenny Paton]

I've made this a sticky.
Nice clear explanations great work.

 

[Ramiboo]

Nice one scoops, I'm pretty new to R3E and the FFB was the thing holding me back. I've got a CSWv2 and when I made a new profile it was rattling around centre. I reduced the minimum force to 2% and upped the lateral to about 85%. It's awesome now. Can you explain a bit about the rotation of the wheel and when you may need to change it? I ended up setting mine at 540 on the wheel and in game. But I'm wondering if it's better to let the game adjust for me? Is that an option?

 

[2scoops]

Hey Ramiboo, I know you from RSR
I know expert lol but I believe the wheel rotation is linked to the speed the wheels will turn to the amount of turn you put into the steering wheel, like the Steering Ratio in Project Cars. You can also alter the maximum lock of the car, but you don't generally need to do this. A GT3 for example will be much higher than a single seater, I know you know this. I don't tend to use higher than 540 unless its a single seater and I will then drop it to maybe 320. But because it can be set at anything in between or up to 900 you can fine tune to suit you.

 

[Ramiboo]

Cheers buddy. I'll try and join you guys for a race soon if that's ok.

 

[2scoops]

Of course it is mate, just keep an eye on the events in the forum, WTCC on Thursdays is always a blast.

 

[Dawks]

Deleted; had commented on the wrong thread.

 

[Zzyzx]

A question re: the lateral and vertical forces. I was wondering if these should be adjusted 'relative' to each other? I mean having say 80% on one and 20% on the other (so added together they make 100%). Clearly if you had 100% on both they would be, in a way, overpowering each other.

Anyone got any thoughts on this?

 

[2scoops]

I don't think that would work, I don't set mine that way anyway and it feels really good. I have lateral at 75% and vertical at 100%. Once you have the ffb set you just adjust multiplier on each car.

 

[jimortality]

I don't think that would work, I don't set mine that way anyway and it feels really good. I have lateral at 75% and vertical at 100%. Once you have the ffb set you just adjust multiplier on each car.

I have vertical 110 and lateral 40 and this is the best ffb in the whole wide world!

 

[2scoops]

I have vertical 110 and lateral 40 and this is the best ffb in the whole wide world!

This is the problem for people who are new to this, everyone likes something different, it's worth trying all of them though as you may find one you prefer over the other

 

[Dawks]

... everyone likes something different, it's worth trying all of them though as you may find one you prefer over the other

Something I tried to convey is that "experts" get distracted by their confident opinions.
Settings that are "spot on" and "far out" for an experienced driver might well be dead wrong for a "n00b".

 

[CCL71]

Thanks a lot for this. I've been away from R3E for awhile now and it feels a little foreign to me. I couldn't figure out what was going on. I deleted my wheel profile as well as the documents folder to reset everything. With some tweaking, I've got most of cars to feel like I remember but the Ruf feels like I'm towing a trailer. The rear feels like it sways back and fourth, even in a straight line..I'll use this guide to help me troubleshoot.

 

[2scoops]

Thanks a lot for this. I've been away from R3E for awhile now and it feels a little foreign to me. I couldn't figure out what was going on. I deleted my wheel profile as well as the documents folder to reset everything. With some tweaking, I've got most of cars to feel like I remember but the Ruf feels like I'm towing a trailer. The rear feels like it sways back and fourth, even in a straight line..I'll use this guide to help me troubleshoot.

Let us know how you get on

 

[CCL71]

@2scoops I honestly don't know what's changed. Nothing I did made a difference. As a last effort, I again deleted the simbin folder, then uninstalled and re-installed the game. No change. Whats interesting to me is that when I test drove cars in packs I don't own, they drive "normal". The DTM 2016 cars are very stable, same goes for the GTR3 cars. But when I go back to my DTM 2014 or GTR2 cars, I get the same feeling of weight being transferred from side to side. I typically don't change car setups so it isn't that and I don't change the settings in my Thrustmaster control panel.

Maybe it just is what it is. Either way, it is disappointing to come back to a game that I enjoy and find that something has changed. I did go against my rule of buying duplicate cars in R3E and I purchased the GTR3 pack, all of which drive the way i remember. I own DTM 2014 but I'm not buying the 2016 pack(my rule about buying duplicate cars). I'll make due until I can figure it out.

 

[Kurupt CDN]

What is your ffb min set to? If it's set above 5% your wheel is oscillating cause it's over exaggerating the min forces. I believe default is 10 I believe....use iracing wheel check to set up your min force properly. I am a thrustmaster tx user and the default ffb min of caused my wheel to violently shake back and forth between 10 and 2 and if I let go of the wheel on a straight it would just end up in a tank slapper and crash.
Wheel check produced a ffb min of 3% which I use in game and with a few small adjustments of the lateral the ffb has become my favorite of all my sims.
FYI you don't need to delete any folders you just have to create a new wheel controller profile than when ever you try a new car go to the tuning setup and hit reset tuning option and reset in the steering options to ensure that the engine is running the current physics update for the vehicle.
Also the dtm & wtcc 13 & 14 models have yet to be updated physic wise.

 

[CCL71]

@Kurupt CDN my min force is at 10 but I don't have any oscillation. I've experienced that before from other titles but that was a good suggestion. After having gone through 2 Fanatec wheels because I didn't understand clipping at the time, I'm cautious about not putting too much force on my T300. My readings on the ffb meter are well below the clipping threshold.

The one option that I don't understand is the Steering Lock. Can you guys tell me what it's for?

What I'm feeling seems more like physics than ffb; I feel bumps, curbs and slip just fine. I can tell what the car is doing, I just don't like it, lol. And now that I've purchased the GTR3 cars and found that they don't drive like the rest of my cars, I'm leaning away from ffb settings. I expect to feel more weight transfer in the older cars like the Touring Classics or GTO cars but not as much in the DTM 2014 or ADAC cars. Not a big deal, I may play with tuning options and see what effects they have on the handling. I'll try stiffening the rebound and bump settings and play around with the anti-roll bars.

Again, thanks for the suggestions and to @2scoops for this thread.

 

[Dawks]

Thanks a lot for this. I've been away from R3E for awhile now and it feels a little foreign to me.

On the other hand, brand new to racing after years / decades of MilSim I started with Race 07 last week, using my 3D Pro Joystick. (Rebuilding game PC so cannot run R3E.)
A venerable MOMO came in Saturday from Amazon. Set it up today. Zounds! Profiler settings, Controller settings, in game settings ... got it half-way sane.
2:02 on 7th lap of Brands Hatch.

Looking forward to figuring out what's best!

p.s. came across this little gem at NoGripRacing Forums; game allows configuring differential settings? **
"Steering with your right foot and differentials"

** This post in "Setup Differential" was just what I hoped to find.

Aaron Markham

 

[Paulr]

Hi

I've got a Logitech Momo wheel and am having problems with it in Raceroom. I can change gears but no throttle, brake or steering wheel functions are available to me. When I go into Control Options and I can get to Controller Profiles, Primary Functions, Secondary Functions, Advanced Settings but the Force Feed Back setting is "greyed out" and can't get into it to adjust anything.

Any help appreciated as it is driving me insane.