FFB settings
- Thread starter Wack2k2
- Start date
First of all I would read this post by Renato Simioni, a Reiza developer. He gives some tips on how to get your wheel set up in AMS 2.
To follow his advice, I used the Sprint Race class because it has quite "heavy" FFB, and Brands Hatch because it is probably the bumpiest track in the game.
In the FFB options, choose New Default and set Gain to 100, Low Force Boost to 0, and FX to 0. Don't worry, this is just your starting point.
Drive around the track with the telemetry HUD enabled so that you can keep an eye on the FFB histogram. Look for the red bar on the far right, as it indicates clipping which you don't want. After each lap, take the Gain down in small increments until you barely get any red bar at all. That's your clipping minimised.
Now feel the wheel when it's centred and driving along a straight. If it feels "loose", raise the LFB in small increments until you reach a point where it feels tighter. I don't mean that it should take effort to move away from the centre, just that you can feel some force keeping the wheel centred and perhaps some of the little bumps in the track.
Once you're happy with that, raise the FX slider. This one is probably more personal preference than anything, determined by how much you want to feel effects like engine vibration and tyre scrub. Personally, I just set it at 50 and left it at that.
Once you've done all that, you should have pretty much the "optimal" settings for your particular wheel, according to Reiza. Note that the FFB does differ a lot between cars at the moment, so some will feel lighter or heavier than others. In that case, adjust the gain to suit the car but leave the other sliders where they are.
Also, I would not spend hours over this at the moment... there is another FFB update coming this week which is supposed to be the final version.
To follow his advice, I used the Sprint Race class because it has quite "heavy" FFB, and Brands Hatch because it is probably the bumpiest track in the game.
In the FFB options, choose New Default and set Gain to 100, Low Force Boost to 0, and FX to 0. Don't worry, this is just your starting point.
Drive around the track with the telemetry HUD enabled so that you can keep an eye on the FFB histogram. Look for the red bar on the far right, as it indicates clipping which you don't want. After each lap, take the Gain down in small increments until you barely get any red bar at all. That's your clipping minimised.
Now feel the wheel when it's centred and driving along a straight. If it feels "loose", raise the LFB in small increments until you reach a point where it feels tighter. I don't mean that it should take effort to move away from the centre, just that you can feel some force keeping the wheel centred and perhaps some of the little bumps in the track.
Once you're happy with that, raise the FX slider. This one is probably more personal preference than anything, determined by how much you want to feel effects like engine vibration and tyre scrub. Personally, I just set it at 50 and left it at that.
Once you've done all that, you should have pretty much the "optimal" settings for your particular wheel, according to Reiza. Note that the FFB does differ a lot between cars at the moment, so some will feel lighter or heavier than others. In that case, adjust the gain to suit the car but leave the other sliders where they are.
Also, I would not spend hours over this at the moment... there is another FFB update coming this week which is supposed to be the final version.
Nope, I meant Brands. As well as having numerous large and small bumps, more than Oulton in my opinion, it also has a nice mix of corners. Not the best selection perhaps, but combined with the bumps a good test for FFB. Plus I'm biased, because it's one of my favourites.Er, did you mean Oulton Park perhaps?
Rory Wetherington
pflynhi
This is what works/feels good to me, atm (remember there will be another update to FFB soon)
on the wheel, all default except FEI @70
on the wheel, all default except FEI @70
