Hi does anyone have a good ffb settings for AM 2 and Thrustmaser TS-PC.

Don't forget to use Damping set to 0 in Windows otherwise you will have very strange ffb.
For my T300rs
Gain 75(this varies from car to car)
Low force boost 50
FX 40
Damping 0(I also do not use damping in game)
 
Is there any confirmation from Reiza to not use damping on thrustmaster wheels?
This is the first time I've heard about the damping and calibration of the pedals twice.

I use a TX with dampening at 100 in TM with 25% in game, default profile and haven't noticed any issues...no pedal problems of late, the last I remember was the overly sensitive brakes on some cars back in the earlier builds but nothing of late.

Edit: come to think about it, I may have had the brake issue yesterday as A few cars kept looping out while braking.

Is the brake issue visual in the menus and overlays if it's 100% at 10%?
 
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Is there any confirmation from Reiza to not use damping on thrustmaster wheels?
This is the first time I've heard about the damping and calibration of the pedals twice.

I use a TX with dampening at 100 in TM with 25% in game, default profile and haven't noticed any issues...no pedal problems of late, the last I remember was the overly sensitive brakes on some cars back in the earlier builds but nothing of late.

Edit: come to think about it, I may have had the brake issue yesterday as A few cars kept looping out while braking.

Is the brake issue visual in the menus and overlays if it's 100% at 10%?
 
Sometimes when doing the pedal calibration pedals do not get properly calibrated.
From my experience whit Thrustmeter is better to do them 2 times to be sure.Might work from the first time for you.
If the brake pedal is improperly calibrated you will have maximum pressure(brake locking) at the smallest touch of the pedal.

Edit: Damping should be set to 0 in windows control panel for all non direct drive wheels.
Edit 2: I added screenshots with my T300rs wheel setup
Edit 3: Spring also should be set at 0 in windows control panel
 

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Sometimes when doing the pedal calibration pedals do not get properly calibrated.
From my experience whit Thrustmeter is better to do them 2 times to be sure.Might work from the first time for you.
If the brake pedal is improperly calibrated you will have maximum pressure(brake locking) at the smallest touch of the pedal.

Edit: Damping should be set to 0 in windows control panel for all non direct drive wheels.
Edit 2: I added screenshots with my T300rs wheel setup

Thanks....I only read the opening suggestions not the other 10 pages yet.
The only thing I read regarding dampening was the following.

Controller Damping in the UI relates to gamepad & other digital controllers only - it´s NOT a FFB setting.

Currently, we do not control damping and friction from in game. Both are important on DD wheels. We will later model these from physics directly.

And the other paragraph regarding controller dampening which is not a ffb setting.

Dampening was added to the ffb menu a few builds ago....I'd assume it's now modeled into the physics as mentioned above, as that post was created almost a yr ago in April 2020?

Not arguing, I just honestly don't know the answer?
One would think they wouldn't add a setting that has yet to be implemented?
If dampening has yet to be added to the game than it shouldn't use your TM setting if "allow game to select" is checked ?
Cheers

Edit: I also noticed your using TM firmware 31 instead of the newest 56 version....any reason?

It would also be nice if Reiza updated that thread with new recommendations as much has been added and changed to the physics in the past 10 months since it was written.
 
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EDIT1:
Controller Damping in the UI relates to gamepad & other digital controllers only - it´s NOT a FFB setting.

Currently, we do not control damping and friction from in game. Both are important on DD wheels. We will later model these from physics directly.
Pretty sure this is outdated, the post was last edited on April 5th, and Reiza added Damping after that that is implemented via DXInput Constant Force and recommended to use over in driver damper. Whether you like it or not is different issue.
 
Pretty sure this is outdated, the post was last edited on April 5th, and Reiza added Damping after that that is implemented via DXInput Constant Force and recommended to use over in driver damper. Whether you like it or not is different issue.
The post is old, and a lot has changed in the last months but if you read the comments you will see Damper still should be set at 0 in windows for non DD wheels.
 
Sometimes when doing the pedal calibration pedals do not get properly calibrated.
From my experience whit Thrustmeter is better to do them 2 times to be sure.Might work from the first time for you.
If the brake pedal is improperly calibrated you will have maximum pressure(brake locking) at the smallest touch of the pedal.

Edit: Damping should be set to 0 in windows control panel for all non direct drive wheels.
Edit 2: I added screenshots with my T300rs wheel setup
Edit 3: Spring also should be set at 0 in windows control panel


Given that Thrustmaster do not make a Direct drive wheel why would they bother including a damping setting in their driver if it needs to be at 0.
I have never seen anything from Trustmaster that says it should be 0, the game will now set whatever damping you select in the games FFB settings, if it's turned off completely in the driver it cannot do this.
 
Given that Thrustmaster do not make a Direct drive wheel why would they bother including a damping setting in their driver if it needs to be at 0.
I have never seen anything from Trustmaster that says it should be 0, the game will now set whatever damping you select in the games FFB settings, if it's turned off completely in the driver it cannot do this.
You have the link from the official forum above, it is clearly stated Damper should be set at 0. Damper in game works differently in AMS2 to the one in windows control panel.
Ask on that forum the devs or even Renato usually reply and give any help they can.

BTW also rfactor 2 recommends setting Damper and Spring at 0 in the windows control panel.
 
I found the the post (actually somebody mentioned in on Reiza Forum) that recommends Damping in driver set at 0:

"* We recommend using damping in game vs on wheel setting. Damping in game scales with vehicle, so roughly same level for all cars. On wheel / driver damping doesn't scale with wheel gain, so if you have gain too low, damping will overwhelm FFB signal."

 
I'll have to try the difference again then. Last time it made no difference

As for settings. I make gain 100 in cp. In game I put gain to 69 for a tx or 68, the rest 50 50 50. On default.
Yes I get a great scale for dampening with 100 in cp and 50 in game. Like I said last test I did there was no change. I'm pretty sure the game overrides the CP on that point.

You won't regret those settings. But maybe you like it lighter. That's fine just lower gain on a per car basis as the other settings are ideal I'd say.

The custom 51 is very similar on their forums but more loose I'd say too. I'm using predominantly the default as it's consistent and accurate. And the cars do what you want
 
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Mm... I have a TS PC and tbh I really wish Reiza would be clearer on all the FFB setting stuff. I delete the documents folder and start again - I then calibrate the TS PC and and the default settings for my wheel are the right ones I assume. Or not? My only gripe with AMS2 is I dont know whether I'm coming or going with FFB settings. Probs my bad...
 
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