A monster no power steering vehicle like Group B could put out 30nm and if you have a look at 100% FFB Challenges on youtube you'll see that its driveable just a lot of work, a genuine physical workout. IIRC modern F1 cars are in the 20nm range. Most streamers and such typically end up in the 12-14 nm range.
I had some interesting reads from mclarenF1papa and eh.. Kyuubeey about this topic.
Apparently such high Nm would also need to combined with a lot of damping!
So you would have the force, but not the wild beast of a shaking wheel that you can barely hold tight on a straight.
And it also won't insta-wreck your wrist over a small bump or kerb.
These 2 people apparently have analyzed and measured real racing steering racks for inertia, damping etc and know their stuff.
I sadly don't have access to such a wheel to have a go at tinkering with it.
For my engineering brain it does make sense though..
I have a CSL DD with the boost kit at 8nm and its enough force to feel the car but I wouldn't ever turn it down it runs at 100% all the time, so I could definitely and probably would use more power if I had it.
I have a csw 2.5 which is a tiny bit more powerful afaik. 8.5 Nm iirc.
What rim diameters do you use? Just curious!
I used 100% base with 70% game gain in AC when I had my 32cm Porsche 918 rim.
Now I only use 75% base strength and 65% gain with my 30cm and very light weight McLaren v2 rim.
Massive difference between diameters and weight from my experience!
Thank you!
I think this is what I had in mind when asking the original question.
I definitely have no interest in breaking my wrists or fighting with the wheel, even if it means having less realism.
I'll probably never race a real race car, so I don't need that prep or practice either.
I'm just looking for a very immersive fun 1 or 2 evenings a week.
Thank you all for great info!
Where do you live btw?
Simucube 2 is the "standard" right now. Expensive but good value, good support and you can't go wrong it it.
VRS seems to be based in Michigan, US and use "Simucube 1" motors. The famous "small mige".
You can't go wrong with that either.
I would watch some YouTube videos about the software and then decide.
Where you live might be part of that decision too!
If you have the money, get one of these and forget about possible issues.
Moza is quite new and for me personally, it's shiny Chinese "let's get market share in this new trend of simracing at whatever costs".
I can't find any info about the company apart from "somewhere in China, probably".
It can be great, but it's a bit too new and unproven for my taste...
Barry says something about "notchy feeling" and the fanatec wheels are "known" for some issue here and there too.
I for example had a csl DD for a week and at first I didn't update my fanatec driver, my current one was compatible.
Everything worked fine but I thought for a proper test I'd update everything to the latest version.
rF2 had some very weird "steppy" ffb for whatever reason.. AC and ACC were still fine.
No settings changed at all and honestly, there's no setting that would be able to cause such an effect...
Reverted the driver and all was fine again.
With my csw, the steppy ffb wasn't there with the latest version.
That's my experience with fanatec DD stuff...
About how much torque:
As you can see from my current settings with the McLaren rim, I only use about 6.5 Nm of my wheel.
But if I'd like to use a heavier and "real life size" steering wheel in the future, even the full 8.5 Nm wouldn't be enough.
In any case, if you got the money, get one of the known to be great DD wheels. Turn the torque down to 8-10 Nm and be happy.
With the headroom it will last forever and if you want to do anything special in the future, you know it will be possible