hi all, how do you cure FRONT LEFT or FRONT RIGHT ONLY, when rest of tires are green, but 1x side FR or FL, just remains blue/ cold? how do you approach to cure this?
thanks.
thanks.
how to cure BLUE tire status?
- Thread starter Peter Klawitter
- Start date
I was Literally just about to ask the same question. If you havent seen this before http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=912315488 Check it out. Its helped me a lot. Thank you Mr Deap. The thing is, it gets very technical, especially when it comes to suspension. I think the best question is, what are the first things people do to get rid of one or 2 blue tires? I always tray to nail the psi then camber then run a bunch of laps. But thats as far as my knowledge goes. When you set a higher spring rate or higher bump, do you do one click each? Whats the simplest way to solve this problem?
You use the law of inertia while also keeping more friction on the whole surface of the tires to promote viscoelasticity(retain heat at the core) by increasing the spring rate or damper bump setting during braking, acceleration & cornering. It also reduce the suspension compression.
There's road camber which need to rely on ARB to prevent the car to lean too much so it stay within the suspension geometry spectrum while cornering. It doesn't reduce the suspension compression during braking & acceleration on straight line nor promote viscoelasticity, only cornering. Although reducing the suspension travel from stiffing will require to use less ARB to avoid doing 3 wheel while cornering.
@Sharpe69 The rebound & bump on damper work together on all 4 side & need to be adjusted to reduce instability from the change in spring rate, wing, etc. Although if there's less inertia to play with, it's better to increase the spring rate or rebound value on the opposite side & simply increase the bump value.
The less suspension compression(or less grip) occur, the less negative camber is needed. Sometime it's better to leave them cold or simply impossible to make them heat.
There's road camber which need to rely on ARB to prevent the car to lean too much so it stay within the suspension geometry spectrum while cornering. It doesn't reduce the suspension compression during braking & acceleration on straight line nor promote viscoelasticity, only cornering. Although reducing the suspension travel from stiffing will require to use less ARB to avoid doing 3 wheel while cornering.
@Sharpe69 The rebound & bump on damper work together on all 4 side & need to be adjusted to reduce instability from the change in spring rate, wing, etc. Although if there's less inertia to play with, it's better to increase the spring rate or rebound value on the opposite side & simply increase the bump value.
The less suspension compression(or less grip) occur, the less negative camber is needed. Sometime it's better to leave them cold or simply impossible to make them heat.
