Does anyone have a solution to mount a bass shaker (transducer) to the back of my Autostyle BS5 seat without having to drill holes in the back? The seat has a double curved shell (horizontally and vertically) as shown on the photo. I have mounted the bass shaker to a square plank now and used strong velcro strips with a strong adhesive back. I filled the 'gaps' with extra strips. I holds, but I don't know for how long... Does anyone have another idea?
How to mount bass shaker to curved back of seat (without drilling)?
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Well first of all what transducer? if you don't hard mount it it either will fall, or not be able to transfer correctly the vibration. One idea would be to make an inner lining with dayton pucks so that they will be in touch with your body and also be held in place with the body weight.
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Mr Latte
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The tactile unit(s) do not have to be installed directly to the back of the seat.
I have a similar problem with my own seat but it is not curved as much. However, I can't drill into it as the front is leather and it cannot be removed.
My own approach was to test with L/R metal extensions that go from underneath the seat and up the back of the seat. I use steel chrome tubing but 8020 could be used. Their angle could be altered as I too have a recliner based seat. Once the angle is set it can be locked/supported in place.
You then just need a contact point between the rails and the back of the seat. I have a threaded foot making contact with rubber stick on circle for the seat. Looked at other solutions like large suction cups and also magnets. My revised solution was neater and improved.
For me I will place two contact points per side. Lower and upper back regions to deliver the L/R effects placed on the tactile. The tactile can be installed in the base of the seat area as their energy will still flow through the base of the seat/rails and also along the extensions discussed. Maintaining stereo at the contact points with the seat.
To take this further, is what I am currently testing and discussing in the tactile thread with the inclusion of "tactile exciters" These are small and can be stuck on with the sticky back they have.
This is a mockup of an old concept.
I have a similar problem with my own seat but it is not curved as much. However, I can't drill into it as the front is leather and it cannot be removed.
My own approach was to test with L/R metal extensions that go from underneath the seat and up the back of the seat. I use steel chrome tubing but 8020 could be used. Their angle could be altered as I too have a recliner based seat. Once the angle is set it can be locked/supported in place.
You then just need a contact point between the rails and the back of the seat. I have a threaded foot making contact with rubber stick on circle for the seat. Looked at other solutions like large suction cups and also magnets. My revised solution was neater and improved.
For me I will place two contact points per side. Lower and upper back regions to deliver the L/R effects placed on the tactile. The tactile can be installed in the base of the seat area as their energy will still flow through the base of the seat/rails and also along the extensions discussed. Maintaining stereo at the contact points with the seat.
To take this further, is what I am currently testing and discussing in the tactile thread with the inclusion of "tactile exciters" These are small and can be stuck on with the sticky back they have.
This is a mockup of an old concept.
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To answer my own question, this is what I've come up with: bass shaker mounted onto a small plank. Aluminium strips bent like the horizontal curve of the chair. These strips are mounted onto the plank, curved like the vertical curve of the chair with supporting nuts and washers. Industrial 3M 'dual lock' velcro (very stiff, with adhesive back) sticked onto the strips and on the back of the chair. The velco helps to 'fill the gaps' of the irregularities of the strips.
Time will tell if the shaker will fall onto the floor
. If it does, I will use 3M Very High Bond (VHB) double sided tape onto the back of the velcro.
Time will tell if the shaker will fall onto the floor
. If it does, I will use 3M Very High Bond (VHB) double sided tape onto the back of the velcro.Attachments
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Dan Costa
World Champ Procrastination n' Hoarding Series
The shaker doesn't need full contact with the surface to work best. I suppose that was your train of thought when you made that contraption. If the idea is to really have it on your back, make 4 holes on the bucket seat and use spacers so that the bottom doesn't touch the surface.
Having it glued is also a bad idea because the frequencies it vibrates at will dislodge any "soft" mounting solution, they also dampen the vibrations.
Looking at the seat, the Ideia I posted above is the ideal, you will feel very strong vibrations in the entire seat. Its the same principle when adding shakers to a home cinema couch. Just screw it to any hardboard and the entire couch will shake. Either that, or make 4 holes in the bucket seat plastic like i suggested above.
Having it glued is also a bad idea because the frequencies it vibrates at will dislodge any "soft" mounting solution, they also dampen the vibrations.
Looking at the seat, the Ideia I posted above is the ideal, you will feel very strong vibrations in the entire seat. Its the same principle when adding shakers to a home cinema couch. Just screw it to any hardboard and the entire couch will shake. Either that, or make 4 holes in the bucket seat plastic like i suggested above.
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Thanks Dan, but the problem is the shaker is too big to mount at the side. I can't drill holes in the back, because the fabric cannot be removed from the seat (I do not want to damage the fabric). I already have a shaker under the seat. Having a big shaker at the back just feels great, love it. The curved aluminium now makes a bigger contact surface for the glue. We'll see for how long .
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Dan Costa
World Champ Procrastination n' Hoarding Series
On my pedals I have one shaker with only 2 screws because it didn't fit. Its hanging mostly outside the actual surface. I noticed no difference to when it was with 4 screws in a different setup.
How about this idea so you wont have to make holes in the fabric. Make this type of hole in the bucket plastic. Insert the headbolt on the big hole and push it downwards. Use pliers to hold the head through the big hole while you tighten the nut. Add as many nuts as you want to serve as spacers before screwing the shaker.
Anyways good luck with any method you chose to go with! shakers are awesome
How about this idea so you wont have to make holes in the fabric. Make this type of hole in the bucket plastic. Insert the headbolt on the big hole and push it downwards. Use pliers to hold the head through the big hole while you tighten the nut. Add as many nuts as you want to serve as spacers before screwing the shaker.
Anyways good luck with any method you chose to go with! shakers are awesome
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Mr Latte
Premium
With recent testing that I have done, if you follow the "general tactile thread".
I would say its very likely 2x Dayton DAEX32U-4 32mm Exciters would outperform that BassPump unit you have. You could attach these to thin wood or aluminum and then have that use industrial velcro to the seat. Much less weight.
These just stick on, so simple. Not only do I think these would give similar low-end bass at 30-40Hz. They outperformed HDN8 and Dayton Puc units but these have a major benefit as they can be felt up to and over 200Hz.
They impressed me so much I'm going to use them on my own build. WIth a combination of 6 units for the back of the seat to work with my main tactile but to enhance specific effects and bring the extra highlights in detail they offer.
I would say its very likely 2x Dayton DAEX32U-4 32mm Exciters would outperform that BassPump unit you have. You could attach these to thin wood or aluminum and then have that use industrial velcro to the seat. Much less weight.
These just stick on, so simple. Not only do I think these would give similar low-end bass at 30-40Hz. They outperformed HDN8 and Dayton Puc units but these have a major benefit as they can be felt up to and over 200Hz.
They impressed me so much I'm going to use them on my own build. WIth a combination of 6 units for the back of the seat to work with my main tactile but to enhance specific effects and bring the extra highlights in detail they offer.
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I just bought 2 of those exciters. I've got a spare SMSL amp lying around now and I thought I might be able to put it to use now that I have a new Sparco Rev II bucket. There is a nice flat spot to put these either side near where the harness slots are. I've been eyeing them for a while since Rod mentioned them. The fact I can just stick them on the side of the seat is perfect, hopefully giving me a bit more rounded feel to the tactile.
Looking forward to trying them. Might give a different feeling to the BK Mini's I have. Not going to bother with audio tactile, can't be bothered with the amount of outputs I'll need, but I'll just run them the same way I had my previous 4 x Aura Bass Shakers.
Looking forward to trying them. Might give a different feeling to the BK Mini's I have. Not going to bother with audio tactile, can't be bothered with the amount of outputs I'll need, but I'll just run them the same way I had my previous 4 x Aura Bass Shakers.
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FYI. One month later: it still holds perfectly, it hasn't come loose at all. It transfers vibration to the seat very well (1 to 1 from the shaker) and there is no 'speaker effect' from the small plank. It's a very stiff solution. No need to drill holes in the seat - I'm happyThanks Dan, but the problem is the shaker is too big to mount at the side. I can't drill holes in the back, because the fabric cannot be removed from the seat (I do not want to damage the fabric). I already have a shaker under the seat. Having a big shaker at the back just feels great, love it. The curved aluminium now makes a bigger contact surface for the glue. We'll see for how long
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I would mount it to the base of the seat. If you go for a second one I would mount that one to the back of the seat or at the pedal base. If you mount the shaker to the frame you will lose a lot of energy.
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