im so mad at ams2 on direct drive just rage quit a race

[Deleted member 963434]

direct drive users share your setting i just cant set this thing i dont know if its my wheel issue or game issue. i have prefectly set AC, ACC, raceroom even pCARS2 but ams 2 i cannot.
im so mad i just had race and rage quit cause wheel shakes like crazy and when i brake it try to rip my arms off.
if i set gain 50 i feel good forces until i turn lol or brake lol cause force too strong then
if i set gain at 30 i have no force until i turn or brake lol like horse riding.
LFB doesnt help much cause if i set gain 30 and lfb 30 i feel good center but then i not feel when turning, if i set gain at 50 mad no LFB i feel not center but much too strong force when turning, when i set 5 gain and 30 LFB i feel good center but again too strong force when turning. its facken crazy i rememebr it was god before they introduced so called brake load. now yo just touch brake and yo wheel goin full force right or left its so crazy and unreal like wtf, i m so mad at this game

 

[Deleted member 963434]

just tried "custom" profile and it feels better but im so confused now by devs.... i remember there was once update and tey told "custom" and "defaults" is the same thing and yo shall only use "custom" when yo make changes to it in ffb_custom_settings.txt file in my documents. i so much disagree... maybe tey made some "tweaks " into "default" and not tell us "defaul" and "custom" is not same thing anymore?
my goal is to tell when i drive at default my wheel tries to break my arms when i brake and brake bieas is set too much to rear, so strong force, but same breake bias and custom ffb and it works different more real... and im not usin "custom" downloaded and tweaked by somebody im just usin stock custom. and i remember good devs told "default" and "custom" are the same// but they not, so im confused right now

 

[d69morpwr]

just tried "custom" profile and it feels better but im so confused now by devs.... i remember there was once update and tey told "custom" and "defaults" is the same thing and yo shall only use "custom" when yo make changes to it in ffb_custom_settings.txt file in my documents. i so much disagree... maybe tey made some "tweaks " into "default" and not tell us "defaul" and "custom" is not same thing anymore?
my goal is to tell when i drive at default my wheel tries to break my arms when i brake and brake bieas is set too much to rear, so strong force, but same breake bias and custom ffb and it works different more real... and im not usin "custom" downloaded and tweaked by somebody im just usin stock custom. and i remember good devs told "default" and "custom" are the same// but they not, so im confused right now

From what i understood custom was a stripped down version you should use default. What wheel do you have? I have a simucube ultimate and dont have any of the issues you described.

 

[Deleted member 963434]

From what i understood custom was a stripped down version you should use default. What wheel do you have? I have a simucube ultimate and dont have any of the issues you described.

Whats your settings in simucube, like max force your wheel can generate and what max force you set in wheels software. Then whats your settings in AMS2? gain, lfb, fx, damper?
Im using simplicity sw20 v3 it has max 20 nm and i set it to max in wheel software, then use in AMS2 gain at 50 and rest at 0 lfb, fx and damper.
Yes i go back to default flavour in AMS2 as custom may feel better at cornering as forces was not so strong and when i locked tyres and my car go sideway countersteering force was not so strong as at default, but then feeling center was worst and wheel not centering good just starts to oscillating crazy. So i go back to default now wheel centers fast and not oscillating but issue is at fast turns force too strong and when i brake and lock tyres car go sideway i can let off wheel and it want to go back to straight itself which looks feird thats not like real cars acts but i think its more game physics issue.
But you say yo dont have same issues i described, do you understood me correctly whats my issue? You tellin me when you for example brake into left corner and lock wheels and car go sideway your steering wheel not go very strong to right and you must grapple wit it to hold it? Also when road is bumpy it shaking so much. i Saw them wheels in real life shaking too but you can crearly see its not wheels itself shaking but drivers arms as they go over bumps whole cars shake so its driver arms shaking and not hold wheel straight. Thats the issue wit AMS2 ffb tey made too strong forces to simulate bumps on your wheel, in real cars bumps not affect wheels so much it has powersteering. Well i decided to go to default and have those too strong bumps effect, and too strong wheel countersteering just to feel center better, cause i noticed issue persists only if i go online and somebody choose wrong car/track combo to race. I mean set too fast car and too slow track. Like if i drive fastest car in game at Spa or other modern tracks its good. But i go fastest car at slow track with lots of turns, or vintage track with lots of bumps i can barely drive cause of too strong ffb. But if i reduce it i cant feel center good. Also i have all my sims set perfect now and those shaking and too strong countersteering is only in AMS2.
i read somewhere about pCARS2 ffb that you shall lower strength in your wheel and set max gain in pCARS2 for best ffb, i think AMS2 inherit this approach. i remember setting 13 nm max force then gain 60 and it was best ffb i had, but then in my other sims it was worse. So i wont change my wheel settings just for one sim. Even pCARS2 i have set best i had. I have in all my sims almost same setting. Max wheel strenght, in ACC and AC only gain to 50 % rest at 0, in AC gyro=1 but min and max damper at 0, in ACC as i believe it have gyro built in already, but i still has dynamic damping to 0, in pCARS2 gain i have at 100 but volume and tone both at 50 as i saw setting gain at 50 and volume, tone at 100 makes it clipp, and setting gain at 100 then volume and tone at 50 makes it same feeling but without clipping. Same goes for raceroom setting gain at 50 then rest steering force, vertical force, and lateral force at 100 makes it clipp, but setting gain at 100 then steering force, vertical and lateral force at 50 makes it same results but without clipping so racerrom has similar ffb to pCARS2.
i managed to set best settings in my wheel software then set just 50% gain in all my sims thats ACC, AC, pCARS2, raceroom, beam.ng and all works prefect even beam . ng i had gain to 50% but i have smooting there at 100 and steering forces at 200. And in all my sims driving is similar, only pCARS2 is different but i dont thinks i can improve it ever. But AMS2 with gain at 50% i tell you bumps just too strong and too strong countersteering, i mean its good countersteering when you powerslide, but very bad when you press brake and lock tyres and go sideways wheel just takes control of the car away from you as it wants it so badly to straighten it, but that feels so weird i never experienced something like that in any sim.
maybe its because AAMS2 uses 600 Hz ffb refreshing?

 

[Deleted member 963434]

to finalize my post it feels good when you drive fast car at fast modern nt bumpy tracks, i also like understter feeling so much. it also feels ok with slower cars at bumpy/vintage tracks. but for faster cars at bumpy tracks game feels unplayable for me.

 

[d69morpwr]

My settings are pretty much the same as yours. Max gain on the wheel with everything else at zero. I just set gain in game at i think 8. Yes 8. It seems like your gain is pretty high id guess 30ish would be more reasonable from what i remember guys with 20nm simucube wheels are using. Do you NEED two hands to steer? You should be able to steer most cars with one hand pretty easily. Too high gain will cause oscillations. My settings in PC2 arent really any different either. Id delete you controller profile and set it up again. PC2 used to have weird issues with updates sometimes and we would have one person saying its great and another one saying it sucks. Worst case is reinstall it just make sure you delete everything related to AMS2 thats saved so its completely fresh. Ive had to do that too with PC1 AND2.

 

[Deleted member 963434]

My settings are pretty much the same as yours. Max gain on the wheel with everything else at zero. I just set gain in game at i think 8. Yes 8. It seems like your gain is pretty high id guess 30ish would be more reasonable from what i remember guys with 20nm simucube wheels are using. Do you NEED two hands to steer? You should be able to steer most cars with one hand pretty easily. Too high gain will cause oscillations. My settings in PC2 arent really any different either. Id delete you controller profile and set it up again. PC2 used to have weird issues with updates sometimes and we would have one person saying its great and another one saying it sucks. Worst case is reinstall it just make sure you delete everything related to AMS2 thats saved so its completely fresh. Ive had to do that too with PC1 AND2.

yes i tried 30 but then i dont feel center so good as at 50.
You tellin me you use only 8 gain? That would be aroun 2 nm? How its possible?
i like to have higher gain so i can feel car better and i other sims theres not problem wit wheel shaking on bumps or countersteer so strong when slipping. i think reiza should decrease those forces.
And how you settings with pCARS2? you use gain at 100 and then tweak volume and tone too? I noticed pCARS2 ffb wroks different than rest sims the lower gain you put the more clipping you get and volume slider works as gain in other sims. Same for raceroom lower gain more clipping and steering forces slider works as gain

 

[Deleted member 963434]

to clarify i feel center at 30 gain but then wheels return to center slower and i like to have it like in real car when im goin 200 km/h i want to slightly turn, let it off and want it to return to center, at lower gains it returns slower, overshoot center then starts oscillating more. at higher gain it returns faster and stay there, thats why i use gain of 50 in all sims then wheels return faster and stay there
Yes i use wheel with both hands but can drive one handed but when slow driving, i dont think even i would be able to drive fast with one hand in real life, thats why they even reccomend in driving school to always keep two hands on wheel 9 and 3 teqnicue xd

 

[d69morpwr]

to clarify i feel center at 30 gain but then wheels return to center slower and i like to have it like in real car when im goin 200 km/h i want to slightly turn, let it off and want it to return to center, at lower gains it returns slower, overshoot center then starts oscillating more. at higher gain it returns faster and stay there, thats why i use gain of 50 in all sims then wheels return faster and stay there
Yes i use wheel with both hands but can drive one handed but when slow driving, i dont think even i would be able to drive fast with one hand in real life, thats why they even reccomend in driving school to always keep two hands on wheel 9 and 3 teqnicue xd

Of course you should use two hands for more precision. But you should be able to drive just about any car with one hand pretty easily. What settings does your wheel base have? But yes im around 8 in game gain and it feels about right compared to cars i know. Most cars are only around 6-7nm irl. Obviously forces ramp up in turns so it gets heavier. Not knowing what other settings your wheel base has you might need to turn gain down and add something in your settings to get what you want. The other thing is dont use stability control. Its never worked right since PC1 and does weird things when the car steps out. Usually way to heavy to be able to catch it quickly enough. Its better in AMS2 but i still dont like it because it shouldnt interfere with drving.

In PCars2 i think gain was like 10 and tone 50 i never touched it and around 20-30 i think for volume. Its been a while since ive checked them or played it since AMS2.

 

[Deleted member 963434]

Of course you should use two hands for more precision. But you should be able to drive just about any car with one hand pretty easily. What settings does your wheel base have? But yes im around 8 in game gain and it feels about right compared to cars i know. Most cars are only around 6-7nm irl. Obviously forces ramp up in turns so it gets heavier. Not knowing what other settings your wheel base has you might need to turn gain down and add something in your settings to get what you want. The other thing is dont use stability control. Its never worked right since PC1 and does weird things when the car steps out. Usually way to heavy to be able to catch it quickly enough. Its better in AMS2 but i still dont like it because it shouldnt interfere with drving.

In PCars2 i think gain was like 10 and tone 50 i never touched it and around 20-30 i think for volume. Its been a while since ive checked them or played it since AMS2.

How can you use such low gain do your wheel comes back to center fast when you let off? Or you have set in wheel software to return it to center? Im asking cause i dont have such setting in my wheel.
I never use stability control in any sim, and in AMS and pcars i have authentic assists settings and button to turn off stability.
well i agree two hands for more precision but its for better strength/grip too, i can drive one handed but i know certain turns i would be not able to take one handed in formula high downforce car, also watch real footage of F1 cars how they need to use strength to hold them wheels as it woobles , i remember once watched video as Hamilton watched Ayrton Senna driving and he was very amazed how Ayrton took one chicane one handed and Hamilton said i "cant believe he went there one handed"
And you checked pcars2 for clipping? cause you tell you have 10 gain there and 30 volume, i noticed lower gain in pcars is more clipping, you could try there 100 gain and then 8 volume cause i think in pcars gain must be at 100 and volume in pcars2 works like gain in ams2

 

[d69morpwr]

Maybe its a difference in our bases but i dont have any problem with that.

Thats what i meant. Obviously in a racing situation you are going to use two hands especially in open wheels. But you shouldnt be wrestling the wheel in most cars.

That shouldnt work like that in PCARS. And volume is more then just a volume it effects what you feel also. Try it without touching anything but that. Set it to like 19 and then 90. If i set my wheel and in game to 100 i wouldnt be able to turn it.lol Having a higher nm base is more about making the lower forces stronger and more headroom then actually using all 30nm. But i dont have any clipping on my wheel its really obvious when you do.

 

[Deleted member 963434]

i made some tweaks to wheelbase also rebinded wheel in all my sims . and reduced gain in AC and ACC to 40%. in ams2 to 30% and it feels better now, but now it dont return to center as im used to, i mean i like when it return to center fast and stay there, maybe i shall test with lfb tomorrow, cause now it returns slower and kinda floating around it at higher speeds.
in pcars2 , we talking about pcars2 or pcars1? cause in pcars2 you checked telemetry hud to se you not clipping? also which cars, try formula renault 3,5 i remember previously i was setting 30 gain and volume 100 and tone at 100 and i was clipping, now i have set gain 100, volume 30, tone 100 fbb feels almost same but no clipping and i noticed "gain" (as volume) now comes to 60% max and force is strong

in hud telemetry mode you have 6 sliders there first is 0-20, second 20-40, 3rd 40-60, 4th 60-80, 5th 80-100, 6th slider is 100< clipping. when i have gain at 30 and volume 100 i have 6th slider red, when i have gain 100 volume 30 wheel works tha same but i have only 3 sliders used

 

[reshaderacer]

Several things. I will try to explain at the points you are going awry on it.

And what is the graph doing? Is it going through its roof? Having the red slider go up is cutting it fine iirc, its the one slider you do not always want going up. Because if the red slider is going up you do not have as much room to play with in a heavy/fast/loaded turn, for example.

Have you tried the 50 version custom file yet?

Now, for these files the FFB setting iirc is the turn strength and the gain is the normal/straight line strength.

When you fine tune do not be afraid to put on some damping.

I am also sure that less is better when it comes to wheelbase settings in the company's own wheelbase control panels. I.e do not expect those settings to carry the load/do the job of the in-game settings, make sure they are as default as possible.

With ffb - drive your own car down the road - it should not be bumpy as much - reiza turned all that down on the tracks anyway, less FFB is often 'more', you will get more fine details and information about how you should be driving.

I can tell you right now that I suspect your settings are awry and that you should try the 50 version, and that you need to dial it back and expect less bumps etc.

At this stage, you may be confused and you need to use the custom in its most default state (or whatever you can legitimately handle/reference from your own perspective)... because the game is not out of wack as you say. Its probably something simple so do not stress.

So when in doubt about settings I would reset, even the documents folder - just start again.

And then calibrate (twice) the pedals and steering.

With the steering its weird... you got to turn it all the way back, get a different scale of numbers (sorry I kid you not - the engine is strange) to get it to output the proper numbers.

I.e turn full distance - numbers turn into 100...

then it says "turn back 180 degrees either way".... lol... no, you turn all the way back if its doing this to you... you should get 100,000 or something, then you get 0.... and THEN you get the 180 or whatever number it is. So if you take the instructions to mean you go from wherever you are TO 180...thats wrong... there is a hidden second stage its not stating... you got to make it go to 0, meaning you go back to center I think...sometimes it won't let you do this... but if you do it the other way and it seems to work maybe it will be ok - but its not ideal until you do it the 'different scale' way. i.e 100-0-180...NOT 100-180.

But maybe that number is 270 if you turn to the right...sorry I said its strange!

Then you set in your wheel's control panel the complete turn distance to 900/1080 whatever it is... and then in game you do not need to touch it per car - it will adjust it for each car's turn distance....i.e f1 270 maybe...gt3 800 maybe.

 

[d69morpwr]

i made some tweaks to wheelbase also rebinded wheel in all my sims . and reduced gain in AC and ACC to 40%. in ams2 to 30% and it feels better now, but now it dont return to center as im used to, i mean i like when it return to center fast and stay there, maybe i shall test with lfb tomorrow, cause now it returns slower and kinda floating around it at higher speeds.
in pcars2 , we talking about pcars2 or pcars1? cause in pcars2 you checked telemetry hud to se you not clipping? also which cars, try formula renault 3,5 i remember previously i was setting 30 gain and volume 100 and tone at 100 and i was clipping, now i have set gain 100, volume 30, tone 100 fbb feels almost same but no clipping and i noticed "gain" (as volume) now comes to 60% max and force is strong

in hud telemetry mode you have 6 sliders there first is 0-20, second 20-40, 3rd 40-60, 4th 60-80, 5th 80-100, 6th slider is 100< clipping. when i have gain at 30 and volume 100 i have 6th slider red, when i have gain 100 volume 30 wheel works tha same but i have only 3 sliders used

I honestly dont know how you can have the wheel and game gain at 100 and still drive it even with 20nm. Something seems off here. Try something for me. Leave the volume and tone at default and just set the gain to get a reasonable wheel strength. You shouldnt be fighting the car to steer and steering wheels dont just snap back to center but will self center because of caster. Get that set and drive it for a day.You cant just change ffb that youve been using because your used to that feel. We went through this in the early days of PCARS with guys running super heavy steering. The ffb is better because you get more fine detail instead of just wheel resistance. Most found after adjusting to it they where faster. Once you do that you can play with the volume i like it around 30 but youll see it changes more then just the strength if you get the gain set right. It definitely effects how you feel the tires.

Honestly you dont need a hud to know its clipping. Especially with a DD base if you go into a corner and cant feel anything but the weight of the cornering forces its clipping. You should still be able to feel the bumps and everything else thats why DDs are so good.

 

[reshaderacer]

I wonder as well in this shorter post how the mantra of less is more is not the case here.

Turn it down is good advice

 

[Deleted member 963434]

well i just tweak my wheel some settings, then rebinded wheel in all sims, felt prety good, but then yesterday i decided to tweak other settings in my wheel, but did not feel realistic. so now i put setting i felt most realistic i had, and waiting all night, just to be sure wheel is disconnected, PC off, all electronic off so wheel can reset or something. tomorrow when i power on my PC i straigh go to rebing all my wheel in all sims, and i think it woul be good.
I stil dont agree with pCARS2 though. same as raceroom, i remember good when i lower GAIN in both pCARS2 and RRRE and then increase VOLUME in PCARS2 and corrsponding setting (i think) i RRRE STEERING FORCE i get clipping so fast.
i mean in AC, ACC and AMS2 i can set gain to 30 then i see slider goes to 30%, or with high downforce formulas it go to even 60%
but in both pCARS2 and RRRE if i set gain at 30% i see it reaches max gain in almost every corner (maybe thats how ffb works in this two games, or they have them sliders wrong) but i just see in ffb meter it go to 100% and i think its CLIPPING
but when i set both in pCARS2 and RRRE gain at 100% then in pcars2 VOLUME at 30% and in RRRE STEERING FORCE at 30% i can see in ffb meter gains goes just to 30% and sometimes to 60% with high downforce cars, just like it shows in AC, ACC and AMS2 acording to them ffb meters apps

 

[Deleted member 963434]

well i just tweak my wheel some settings, then rebinded wheel in all sims, felt prety good, but then yesterday i decided to tweak other settings in my wheel, but did not feel realistic. so now i put setting i felt most realistic i had, and waiting all night, just to be sure wheel is disconnected, PC off, all electronic off so wheel can reset or something. tomorrow when i power on my PC i straigh go to rebing all my wheel in all sims, and i think it woul be good.
I stil dont agree with pCARS2 though. same as raceroom, i remember good when i lower GAIN in both pCARS2 and RRRE and then increase VOLUME in PCARS2 to 100% and corrsponding setting (i think) i RRRE STEERING FORCE to 100% i get clipping so fast.
i mean in AC, ACC and AMS2 i can set gain to 30 then i see slider goes to 30%, or with high downforce formulas it go to even 60%
but in both pCARS2 and RRRE if i set gain at 30% i see it reaches max gain in almost every corner (maybe thats how ffb works in this two games, or they have them sliders wrong) but i just see in ffb meter it go to 100% and i think its CLIPPING
but when i set both in pCARS2 and RRRE gain at 100% then in pcars2 VOLUME at 30% and in RRRE STEERING FORCE at 30% i can see in ffb meter gains goes just to 30% and sometimes to 60% with high downforce cars, just like it shows in AC, ACC and AMS2 acording to them ffb meters apps
so i think
AC, ACC, AMS2 at gain 30% = pcars2 gain 100 and volume at 30, and raceroom gain at 100 and steering force at 30
but AC ACC, AMS2 gain at 30 not = pcars gain 30 volume 100 and raceroom gain 30 and steering force 100

 

[d69morpwr]

well i just tweak my wheel some settings, then rebinded wheel in all sims, felt prety good, but then yesterday i decided to tweak other settings in my wheel, but did not feel realistic. so now i put setting i felt most realistic i had, and waiting all night, just to be sure wheel is disconnected, PC off, all electronic off so wheel can reset or something. tomorrow when i power on my PC i straigh go to rebing all my wheel in all sims, and i think it woul be good.
I stil dont agree with pCARS2 though. same as raceroom, i remember good when i lower GAIN in both pCARS2 and RRRE and then increase VOLUME in PCARS2 and corrsponding setting (i think) i RRRE STEERING FORCE i get clipping so fast.
i mean in AC, ACC and AMS2 i can set gain to 30 then i see slider goes to 30%, or with high downforce formulas it go to even 60%
but in both pCARS2 and RRRE if i set gain at 30% i see it reaches max gain in almost every corner (maybe thats how ffb works in this two games, or they have them sliders wrong) but i just see in ffb meter it go to 100% and i think its CLIPPING
but when i set both in pCARS2 and RRRE gain at 100% then in pcars2 VOLUME at 30% and in RRRE STEERING FORCE at 30% i can see in ffb meter gains goes just to 30% and sometimes to 60% with high downforce cars, just like it shows in AC, ACC and AMS2 acording to them ffb meters apps

Youre trying to compare games that dont work even remotely the same. Especially RRRE. Also you realize in PC2 you have to fill all the bars before its clipping right? You do realize that you can get wheel and game clipping right? If you send more to the wheel then it can do it will still clip. Thats possible with a 20nm wheel. Im still wondering how you are getting what you think is realistic for the way the wheel should feel. Ive never seen anybody use settings like you are using. Also i dont know how it started but volume is not a gain! Set gain the adjust volume to get the feel you want. You may have to adjust the gain a few afterwards but nothing drastic. If you set gain youll be able to feel what the volume actually does.

 

[F1Aussie]

Were you able to dial out the bit where it tries to rip your arms off under heavy braking? I get the same thing on my DD1 that is the only drama I have with the ffb.

 

[Deleted member 963434]

Were you able to dial out the bit where it tries to rip your arms off under heavy braking? I get the same thing on my DD1 that is the only drama I have with the ffb.

Hello how much force oyu using in wheel software? is it at max?
Iv been using max force 20 nm and tested gains in game between 50 and 30. at 50 force was too strong when i was braking and rear tyres locked up and car spun it went i think full 20 nm force on my hand xD (maybe thats how real cars without power steering acts lol)
then i lowered it to 30 gain in game and this force was not so strong but still too strong in my opinion, but then i had worse centering force and feeling car at center. did some tweaks to my wheel software then, i reduced my wheel force from max 20 nm to 65% thats 13 nm , then checked gain at 60 and it was i think much better, cause under spin braking wheel not go 20 nm but max 13, but then i lowered to 40 gain in game and thats setting i stay for now.. but just yesterday new update released and they told something about ffb

FFB

• Introduced routine to reset FFB in case of FFB loss (game detects the loss and reset FFB automatically, should be seamless for player)
• Adjusted default FFB profile for more accurate self-aligning torque, milder force spikes over big bumps and other such sudden tire oad.change; adjusted effect from braking torque (should provide better feedback during lockups); split FX signal from Low Force Boost setting

i see something about braking, less force at bumps (thats my case too) and better self aligning (what i called centering force)
didnt drive much from update but did some laps and it feels like im staying with this settings for now. so not max force in wheel software then find good gain in game