I want to give GTR2 another go...what mods, tweaks etc would you guys recommend? are there ai mods, tweaks etc to get the best out of the ai? cheers in advance
interested in getting back into GTR2...some advice needed
- Thread starter kamackeris
- Start date
Good choice! Absolutely get the GTR2 10th Anniversary Patch (in RD Downloads) for a plug'and'play experience. Try the Fia GT 2005 mod, too, which modernizes the original cars and takes them to a new level.
The 10th Anniv Patch comes with a new UI. If you don't like that, you can get all the same stuff separately in the HQ Mods Collection (also in RD Downloads) and you can choose what to install or not.
The 10th Anniv Patch comes with a new UI. If you don't like that, you can get all the same stuff separately in the HQ Mods Collection (also in RD Downloads) and you can choose what to install or not.
cheers guys..will give it a shot tomorrow. does that patch improve the ai?? is it good, realistic racing ?
AI is optimized in 10h Anniversary Patch for original cars : stock cars have some optimizations but HQ Cars/tracks have a lot more improvements. That said, you won't get better AI for every other 3rd party mod you will install because AI must be tweaked for each car/track. The exception is 2005 FiaGT mod : I have set exactly same optimizations as HQ cars/tracks.
Ok.. Installed all this and the ffb tweak and the ffb felt really bad, really weird. Did a quick race monza started at back with ai at 100 and got from 23rd to 4th in 3 laps. Hmmmm.
What wheel do you have? What FFB params did you use?
See my latest FFB params here:
www.racedepartment.com
Non-DD wheels might need some tweaks, I think GTR233 has some tweaks for that.
See my latest FFB params here:
GTR2 - Did you know? GTR2 supports 180hz+ FFB
Update 2020-04-19: Released an update to the mod with AMS1-inspired FFB and crowdsourced wheel PLRs. Click here to download it. Thank you everyone who helped out! Improved Force Feedback Feeling in GTR2 Approaching AMS1/rF1 Feel Due to GTR2's FFB loop being tied to the refresh rate, the sky is...
www.racedepartment.com
Non-DD wheels might need some tweaks, I think GTR233 has some tweaks for that.
thrustmaster t300 mateWhat wheel do you have? What FFB params did you use?
See my latest FFB params here:
GTR2 - Did you know? GTR2 supports 180hz+ FFB
Update 2020-04-19: Released an update to the mod with AMS1-inspired FFB and crowdsourced wheel PLRs. Click here to download it. Thank you everyone who helped out! Improved Force Feedback Feeling in GTR2 Approaching AMS1/rF1 Feel Due to GTR2's FFB loop being tied to the refresh rate, the sky is...
Non-DD wheels might need some tweaks, I think GTR233 has some tweaks for that.
@Jempy has got same wheel so I am sure he could help you 
In 10thAPatch readme there are also recommended AI settings to copy paste in your PLR and especially one to adjust AI speed to your own skills : if it is too easy for you then try this
AI CORNER GRIP USAGE=0.96
I recommend 0.93 in readme for average level which suits most people...but not hardcore racers as you
That said do not forget GTR2 is a 13 years old sim, your t300 did not exist at that time, do not expect what you feel with rf2 or ACC : two modern sims known to have the best FFB available today and developped on/for the same kind of wheel as yours
In 10thAPatch readme there are also recommended AI settings to copy paste in your PLR and especially one to adjust AI speed to your own skills : if it is too easy for you then try this
AI CORNER GRIP USAGE=0.96
I recommend 0.93 in readme for average level which suits most people...but not hardcore racers as you
That said do not forget GTR2 is a 13 years old sim, your t300 did not exist at that time, do not expect what you feel with rf2 or ACC : two modern sims known to have the best FFB available today and developped on/for the same kind of wheel as yours
Jempy
Premium
In fact, I just had this wheel in 2019 August ... and I haven't enough time free to drive on GTR2 since then.
I just drove it twice with this wheel ... on GTR2 Steam version with 10h Anniversary Patch installed with Shovas FFB tweaks ... and I'm not really happy with this FFB.
Before the T300rs I had a G27 with a tweaked FFB ( I got it at Nogrip at the time ... done by Freejrs for a G25 ) that I prefered for GTR2 ( good forces and rather softer vibrations compared to the usual rattling ones for the G27 ).
Not a big fan of too many fake effects ... hiding regularly the weakest FFB feelings.
I still have it in my saved files ... maybe I'll try this one ... one of these days to see if it might be good also for the T300RS.
But when is another question: full busy skinning and preparing a future new Pack for our Team's Le Mans Mod, busy with 2 championships ( AC and ACC ) and very soon a new uptodate PC.
I just drove it twice with this wheel ... on GTR2 Steam version with 10h Anniversary Patch installed with Shovas FFB tweaks ... and I'm not really happy with this FFB.
Before the T300rs I had a G27 with a tweaked FFB ( I got it at Nogrip at the time ... done by Freejrs for a G25 ) that I prefered for GTR2 ( good forces and rather softer vibrations compared to the usual rattling ones for the G27
).Not a big fan of too many fake effects ... hiding regularly the weakest FFB feelings.
I still have it in my saved files ... maybe I'll try this one ... one of these days to see if it might be good also for the T300RS.
But when is another question: full busy skinning and preparing a future new Pack for our Team's Le Mans Mod, busy with 2 championships ( AC and ACC ) and very soon a new uptodate PC.
Jempy
Premium
@kamackeris
I just tested in Steam version after reinstalling Shovas FFB lines by caution.
There was something that bothered me about forces .... wheel rather light and FFB differences according to the speed or throttle release.
The first thing I modified in game is .... the "FFB Sensitive Speed" which was at 60. I already heard many times at the time that it was better to keep it at 0. ....
With a few laps it already felt better but the wheel force was still rather weak.
After a few more tweak and tests .... I found the culprit ... a very strange reason in fact:
In the game FFB Forces ... the more percent you have for the "FFB Steering Forces" .... the less hard the wheel force is and the less percent you keep there ... the harder the wheel force is !!!!!????
Original problem or due to your FFB tweaks, @Shovas ???
I just tested in Steam version after reinstalling Shovas FFB lines by caution.
There was something that bothered me about forces .... wheel rather light and FFB differences according to the speed or throttle release.
The first thing I modified in game is .... the "FFB Sensitive Speed" which was at 60. I already heard many times at the time that it was better to keep it at 0. ....
With a few laps it already felt better but the wheel force was still rather weak.
After a few more tweak and tests .... I found the culprit ... a very strange reason in fact:
In the game FFB Forces ... the more percent you have for the "FFB Steering Forces" .... the less hard the wheel force is and the less percent you keep there ... the harder the wheel force is !!!!!????
Original problem or due to your FFB tweaks, @Shovas ???
What is "FFB Steering Forces"? Are you referring to an option in-game or the PLR file? If PLR file what param is that?
The one that makes forces stronger near center when you decrease it is "FFB steer force exponent".
GTR233 had an issue with his non-DD wheel with a force deadzone in the center I'm not sure how he solved it but that param should help if you tune it.
The one that makes forces stronger near center when you decrease it is "FFB steer force exponent".
GTR233 had an issue with his non-DD wheel with a force deadzone in the center I'm not sure how he solved it but that param should help if you tune it.
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Jempy
Premium
This "FFB Steering Forces" is an option in-game ... surely linked to a param in the PLR file .... but I don't know which one.
Testing with different values in game will surely help to find which line is modified in PLR ... just comparing this PLR with 2 different values without touching anything else.
For the usual deadzone for some non-DD wheels ... mainly nowadays a minimum force setting is provided to correct it but I don't think it was included in GTR2 even with another name.
G25 and G27 ( maybe G29 but never used one ) often have this important deadzone at center ... the T300rs also but more discreet.
Just lowering the value of this "FFB Steering Forces", making the wheel harder ( funny but that's how it really works for an unknown reason ) made this deadzone at center nearly imperceptible for the T300rs.
Testing with different values in game will surely help to find which line is modified in PLR ... just comparing this PLR with 2 different values without touching anything else.
For the usual deadzone for some non-DD wheels ... mainly nowadays a minimum force setting is provided to correct it but I don't think it was included in GTR2 even with another name.
G25 and G27 ( maybe G29 but never used one ) often have this important deadzone at center ... the T300rs also but more discreet.
Just lowering the value of this "FFB Steering Forces", making the wheel harder ( funny but that's how it really works for an unknown reason ) made this deadzone at center nearly imperceptible for the T300rs.
I have a G27, and was never really able to get a good feel using the in game ffb menu. Even after installing the ffb menu mod. It just didn’tfeel right. It just lacked fine detail. It wasn’t until I started only making my adjustments in the plr file that I got the ffb where I wanted it. It takes a while because you have to quit and restart the game after every adjustment. But in the end I felt it was well worth it. GTR2 is still to this day in the top 2 of my favorite sims because of all the work I put into dialing in the ai and ffb. And the 10yr update was the cream on top. Plus all the great mods out there for it.
I assume you are refereeing to FFB steer force exponent
On a G27 I find 0.4000 - 0.5000 to be the best value.
0.4 a little to much sensitivity to center wheel force and over 0.5 I get dead zone around center.
Under 0.4 are it is a constant rattle with a G27!
Bear in mind I do run my G27 with 27.5 Volt so a little faster and stronger than standard but would not think that changes that settings
Jempy
Premium
I just checked my plr and it seems it's well this FFB Steer force exponent I was referring to.. mine is also at 0.50000 for the T300rs ... with no exagerated vibrations and no dead zone.
The Logitech was mostly rattling or might easily get a dead zone at center.... but I used to go above the 100 ( 107 % ) gain and the rest at 0 ... or all at 100% ... but I don't remember which value I used for this exponent in the plr.
To be honest, this 2nd hand G27 I had for years did serve a lot at the time ... but now I don't regret it compared to the T300RS.
The Logitech was mostly rattling or might easily get a dead zone at center.... but I used to go above the 100 ( 107 % ) gain and the rest at 0 ... or all at 100% ... but I don't remember which value I used for this exponent in the plr.
To be honest, this 2nd hand G27 I had for years did serve a lot at the time ... but now I don't regret it compared to the T300RS.
Mine is gain 104% but due to the voltage increase it is higher! But lower that value in game.
Rest is 0%
My G27 just refuse to died. The gear shifter died so I add a TM stick.
Guess I will upgrade to a TM wheel one day too.
Not really prudent myself but kind of like the direct feeling of the G27.
Getting a stable power supply which can output 27-28 Volt does improve the G27 response time.
Mine is at 27.6V which gives me about 20% faster rotational speed = faster response time and 15% stronger wheel.
Might not be much but I kind of got used to that.
The main problem are to find a affordable variable stable power supply in the 24-30V range.
That said if there was a way to build a $4-500 direct drive wheel I would like do that.
Getting a stable power supply which can output 27-28 Volt does improve the G27 response time.
Mine is at 27.6V which gives me about 20% faster rotational speed = faster response time and 15% stronger wheel.
Might not be much but I kind of got used to that.
The main problem are to find a affordable variable stable power supply in the 24-30V range.
That said if there was a way to build a $4-500 direct drive wheel I would like do that.
