I am brand spankin' new at sim racing and have a Fanatec 2.5 base. My pedals are CSL elite with load cell brake. My problem is getting the car, any car, rolling without stalling out. Its like the clutch is a toogle switch. Full on or full off. There is no feathering it out. From wide open throttle the second the clutch starts to grab the rpm's will drop to under 1000 rpm and I creep away until the end of pit lane until it can build up enough rpm to act normal. Sometimes I press and release the clutch a couple times to get it going better. Is this normal?
Is there a fix for my clutch adustment?
- Thread starter csdilligaf
- Start date
I've tried it from zero to 100. So you guys get the same thing? Even if I could just do a burn out and get going but it just boggs down and creeps. I mean we pay a decent amount and the clutch has a potentiometer on it so it should be capable. Maybe a MOD out there? Of coarse I would have to figure out how to upload a MOD but that will have to be a whole other thread. I'm that new!
I don't consider your symptoms normal at all but I use a G27.
Do you see the full range of motion for the clutch pedal when you go into the AC controller setup screen?
I can modulate the clutch in most cars (some do have an autoclutch and thus the physical pedal is ignored) without any problems. I guess it happens in more than one car for you?
yes, I see full range of movement in the controller. Of the full range the engagement is like 1/16 " travel. Like flipping a switch. I will try to load a short video when I figure out how.
Yeah, that might help clarify what's happening. Which cars have you tried? In a really small number of cars (can't remember any right now), the default setup will bog down if I engage first and drop the clutch as fast as I can, but mostly it'll just spin the wheels.
I have tried Sauber C9, Porsche 962, F40 and all are the same. I have found how to get the file from the video folder but clicked on it and window can not run it so if I attach the video how will you guys be able to see it?
There are two ways for the video:
1. attach the file you found, here and everyone who wants to watch it has to download the file and put it into the right AC folder and can watch it within AC.
2. use a program like "Fraps" to capture the video while you play it in AC, the "Fraps" video can be watched from windows or you could upload it to Youtube and post the link here.
Your problem sounds strange, i have driven these 3 cars in the past and did not notice any strange clutch behavior (but i´m on different pedals, might be a pedal specific problem).
1. attach the file you found, here and everyone who wants to watch it has to download the file and put it into the right AC folder and can watch it within AC.
2. use a program like "Fraps" to capture the video while you play it in AC, the "Fraps" video can be watched from windows or you could upload it to Youtube and post the link here.
Your problem sounds strange, i have driven these 3 cars in the past and did not notice any strange clutch behavior (but i´m on different pedals, might be a pedal specific problem).
I have been thinking about this for about a month now. I have a Logitech G27 set and Yes, I agree with @csdilligaf, the clutch engages and disengages about 1/16 inch off the floor. The worse part is that I have to push the clutch almost completely to the floor when driving/racing otherwise all I get is that grinding noise and no completed shift up or down. For me ... it happens with ALL cars in the AC inventory.
Were this a customer's car, I would them him that the clutch was badly in need of adjustment.
The mechanic in me has been wondering if rotating the clutch potentiometer in its mounting somehow might provide the adjustment needed. It never occurred to me that this might be a software problem.
I'll be watching this thread to see what you computer guys come up with.
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I have an email in to Fanatec to see what they can do but their customer service is not known to be very good. The site is so jacked up when I tried to get tech help I fill out all the info in the section with part numbers, order number, customer number and then click submit and it comes up with "error this link is not valid". Yeah thanks guys,
My clutch engage/disengage is only 1/16th of an inch of pedal travel and it is in the middle of the stroke. So push it down 1 1/2" then it will disengage. When I let it up it will come up 1 1/2" and then engage. But its that 1/16" travel in the middle that is the where it is like a toggle switch, full on or full off. There is no way to slowly let the clutch engage and get the car rolling. Just dumps the clutch and bogs down then takes about 50 yards to get the rpm up to where they will pick up rpm.
My clutch engage/disengage is only 1/16th of an inch of pedal travel and it is in the middle of the stroke. So push it down 1 1/2" then it will disengage. When I let it up it will come up 1 1/2" and then engage. But its that 1/16" travel in the middle that is the where it is like a toggle switch, full on or full off. There is no way to slowly let the clutch engage and get the car rolling. Just dumps the clutch and bogs down then takes about 50 yards to get the rpm up to where they will pick up rpm.
Sounds like you guys have bad calibration/deadzone/sensitivity.
I'd try checking it with "DXTweak2" (if it's not googlable i can host version 5.02 somewhere)
It allows viewing and tweaking calibration data, and should be able to help.
Also just to be on the same page, by clutch "engage/disengage" you mean the blue bar on the pedals app moving from empty to full? - if so thats definitely calibration issue, but if the blue bar works in whole pedal travel range, we have a car driver issue
ps: @Ted Duncan Jr depending on what exactly your problem is, just adding deadzone (in game launcher) could fix the issue. I have G27 too and run 2% - 75% deadzone on clutch pedal, without it im grinding gears from time to time too.
I'd try checking it with "DXTweak2" (if it's not googlable i can host version 5.02 somewhere)
It allows viewing and tweaking calibration data, and should be able to help.
Also just to be on the same page, by clutch "engage/disengage" you mean the blue bar on the pedals app moving from empty to full? - if so thats definitely calibration issue, but if the blue bar works in whole pedal travel range, we have a car driver issue
ps: @Ted Duncan Jr depending on what exactly your problem is, just adding deadzone (in game launcher) could fix the issue. I have G27 too and run 2% - 75% deadzone on clutch pedal, without it im grinding gears from time to time too.
They are talking about that the pedal bar is 1:1 what they do/want but the point where the car starts to accelerate until the point where the clutch is mechanically released completely but you still have some pedal travel left are way too close to each other.Sounds like you guys have bad calibration/deadzone/sensitivity.
I'd try checking it with "DXTweak2" (if it's not googlable i can host version 5.02 somewhere)
It allows viewing and tweaking calibration data, and should be able to help.
Also just to be on the same page, by clutch "engage/disengage" you mean the blue bar on the pedals app moving from empty to full? - if so thats definitely calibration issue, but if the blue bar works in whole pedal travel range, we have a car driver issue
ps: @Ted Duncan Jr depending on what exactly your problem is, just adding deadzone (in game launcher) could fix the issue. I have G27 too and run 2% - 75% deadzone on clutch pedal, without it im grinding gears from time to time too.
So you carefully release the clutch and it's like:
Nothing
Nothing
Nothing
Still nothing
Oh car starts to accelerate
Gear completely engaged
Nothing
Nothing
Nothing
Nice tips and hints though!
Yeah that sounds like too narrow deadzone (might be in game or in wheel drivers) or too much sensitivity cranked in drivers for whatever reason or just wrong calibration range. Two screenshots of the DXtweak with clutch tab open - one with pedal pressed and one with depressed should make it clear ...
I'm still not sure I have explained it well. I want to be able to let the clutch slip a little to get the car rolling. The 1/16" engage/disengage range I am talking about is in the middle of the pedal stroke witch is fine with me but once the clutch grabs it will stop the motors rpm dead. It is either full on or full off, no in between. Holding the gas at 8000 rpm you will still stall the motor out.
But which car? Have you tried a nice vanilla car like the MX5 Cup? I just tried that with my G27 and it gives me nice, progressive clutch control where I can have it just barely engaging (minimal torque to the wheels) without any effort at all...
It's still not clear (to me anyway) whether this is an AC issue, a wheel software issue, or indeed a hardware issue.
Holding gas at 8000rpm is still barely any gas in most racecars, similarly middle of the clutch stroke will transfer enough torque to brake traction on slick tyres in many cases, and you need A LOT of power for that so no wonder you are stalling it (even more if it's a turbo car).
We need to know what car on what tyres and in what conditions (tyre blankets etc). In general to gently pull away you should need 70-90% of pedal travel and 40-70% travel for race launch.
I'm not sure what software you run with the Fanatec stuff but with my G27 if I don't have the Logitech Gaming Software running in the background my wheel acts very weird.
OK, Never heard back from Fanatec support but another forum member said to run my pedals to the PC rather than to the wheel base. I had to order a Fanatec usb connector for the shifter to connect to the PC also and it came today. It instantly recognized the pedals and updated the driver. Then did the same for the shifter. It never had done that and each time I updated the driver the only thing that showed as being connected was the base. Now I have a Fanatec icon for the base, pedals and shifter and it all works much better. I am able to adjust the clutch so there is 1/3 dead travel, 1/3 of the travel is now the clutch starting to grad and then the last 1/3 travel is dead. So now I can take off from a dead stop and it feels like a real clutch is supposed too.
Now lets go race!
Chip
Now lets go race!
Chip
