LUT Curve
- Thread starter Deankenny
- Start date
I'm on holidays so I'll write a longer and more detailed reply later but in short:So I am trying to get some good settings for my G29 on AC, can anyone tell me if this looks ok, or is there anything I should be changing, especially the curve in the LUT, does that look odd or normal?
Any feedback welcome, thank you.
Imo the settings are really really bad.
With a lut curve you shouldn't use any minimum force.
Filtering kills details and the logitech wheels already have very few details.
Kerb and road effects are way too high. You first smooth things out via the filter to then add a lot of "rumble" back into the mix. Doesn't make sense.
There's a lot of wrong and bad stuff on the internet about logitech settings.
I've spend half my holidays once to create good settings.
I'm studying engineering so I was really curious and "passionate" about finding out how ffb works, how the logitech motors work and how you can maximize the enjoyment and feel of it.
I know this sounds harsh and egocentric but I'm only trying to be efficient here
To make it simple:
Just use my settings, following my guide. Here's the link:
Note: the damper slider manages the strength of the standing still resistance. I really dislike it with the logitech wheels as the "resistance" leads to some loud, cringy noises from the ffb motors.
With my new fanatec wheel I love it though.
Don't believe in the myth that damper and spring are bad and need to be put to 0. It's just that I don't like what it does in assetto corsa.
For dirt games I have it at 100!
https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/rasmusps-lut-guide-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.139869/
StefanoCasillo
Jaxx Vane Studio
ya filter is not needed at all. 0%
And I went through every one of these 100s of threads and guides... It's a mess!
I went on and on, testing stuff, reading stuff, trying to make sense of it all until I had the feeling that I really got behind everything.
I'd still like to get behind the actual algorithms of the game output and logitech driver but anyway, I think my lut does a pretty good job.
I keep the default ffb and only adjust the first few percent to counter the deadzone while keeping it smooth
As far as I understood, one of the threads was using your custom LUT and other using LUT of your own, probably got that wrong. Also everything seems to be alot subtler now, curbs feel nice as they rumble every so gently through the wheel but not too much to be intrusive, I like that. My only worry is on a track like Magione where the straight is very very bumpy, i feel barely anything to nothing as I hit the bumps driving in a straight line, in a real car the wheel would be respnding to the bumps as your wheels hit them, or is it at this point I need a better wheel than a G29 to feel those kind of forces properly?
Can you send the same Screenshot you've sent in your first post with the new (my) settings please so I can have a look?
As far as I remember the wheel should send the bumps quite well into your hands. On the long straight at the Nordschleife my g27 with my "recommended" lut was permanently shaking.
I said you should click on my guide and therefore use my lutSure, infact that's exaxctly why ROAD is the only slider I turned up a bit to see if I could feel the road more. I'm using the LUT from my wheel using Wheelcheck, Are you saying you can use other peoples LUT files, I thought it was unique to each persons wheel?
All this wheelcheck and blah blah stuff is nice theoretical stuff but simply feels awful.
The creator once said somewhere that he never tested it with a logitech wheel.
Really, just follow my link (the guide) and test my recommended lut.
After you've set everything like it's written in my guide, send the Screenshot again so I can check if everything is correct
Beware: content manager resets to the old lut if you select a different lut and go on track without restarting content manager before.
So set everything up, quit content manager, open content manager again, go on track, quit ac and then do the Screenshot
BetterSo how everything looks after doing above.
But where does that lut come from? It lacks the smooth curve at the beginning to counter the deadzone and compresses the overall ffb.
Looks a bit like my "gamma like lut" but I would really suggest to use my "no clip but stronger lut" and use 50% gain with it (the lut scales it back up).
Ha, you won't believe it, I was going to use the no clip stronger one, but then thought the gamme was your Original OG file, so went for that, I'll change it over to the no clip stronger one, once that is done, everything else looks ok?
EDIT: Also I have alot of brake issues on my G29 pedals due to the stupidly stiff last part of the travel on the brake pedal, however the lowering of the brake gamma really helped out.
EDIT: Also I have alot of brake issues on my G29 pedals due to the stupidly stiff last part of the travel on the brake pedal, however the lowering of the brake gamma really helped out.
Yes
change the lut to no clip but stronger and set the gain to 50%. Then use numpad + and - to adjust each car while driving until the center feels good (especially during chicanes or the last part of magione. Ah true you have that rubber piece... Yeah put brake gamma to 1.0 and maybe set a deadzone for the last few percent to reach 100% a bit more easily
So setup all for that now but at Magione on that back straight I feel absolutely nothing over the bumpy back straight, zero, nada, zilch. I turned it up to 100% gain, and same result apart from maybe last quarter of the straight last few bumps I get the slightest movement. Infact I had 100% gain on, let go of the wheel altogether and completely dead straight not 1 slight movement till end of straight, what am i missing here?
StefanoCasillo
Jaxx Vane Studio
As usual it's a matter of balancing expectations with what the reality of things is, also there's an essential question nobody asked yet: what car are you trying in AC? Depending on the car weight, suspensions, steering geometry, aero load the results will be dramatically different.
This is a FF trace going over the Magione straight with the 49:
The blue line is the FF, the signal is there but the magnitude is quite limited, and rightly so.
With weaker wheels such as the logitech no amount of LUT or magic numbers will ever be able to bring those vibrations out.
Sure you can ramp up the ROAD effect but the only result would be to bury the entire signal into totally useless noise.
I would suggest this: next time you're in your car driving, concentrate on the steering wheel torques when going on a straight... eliminate all the vibrations coming through the dashboard and the body of the car, just try to focus on the wheel trying to rotate either left or right.. there's almost nothing there, not much more that what's being shown in the blue graph above, and most modern cars can easily reach 2-3X what a logitech wheel can produce.
My (G27 user) suggestion is:
Gain 100% (then adjust per car using +/- so that it will "kiss" the red when hitting curbs)
Filter 0%
Min Force - 12-15%
Kerb: 0%
Road: 0%
Slip: 0%
ABS: 10%
FF LUT and everything else: off
Get a feel of what "real" Force Feedback should be.. then add a touch of Slip effect <20% to taste.
If you really have to, a touch of Road effect.
This is a FF trace going over the Magione straight with the 49:
The blue line is the FF, the signal is there but the magnitude is quite limited, and rightly so.
With weaker wheels such as the logitech no amount of LUT or magic numbers will ever be able to bring those vibrations out.
Sure you can ramp up the ROAD effect but the only result would be to bury the entire signal into totally useless noise.
I would suggest this: next time you're in your car driving, concentrate on the steering wheel torques when going on a straight... eliminate all the vibrations coming through the dashboard and the body of the car, just try to focus on the wheel trying to rotate either left or right.. there's almost nothing there, not much more that what's being shown in the blue graph above, and most modern cars can easily reach 2-3X what a logitech wheel can produce.
My (G27 user) suggestion is:
Gain 100% (then adjust per car using +/- so that it will "kiss" the red when hitting curbs)
Filter 0%
Min Force - 12-15%
Kerb: 0%
Road: 0%
Slip: 0%
ABS: 10%
FF LUT and everything else: off
Get a feel of what "real" Force Feedback should be.. then add a touch of Slip effect <20% to taste.
If you really have to, a touch of Road effect.
While I completely agree with kunos (my lut is only a replacement for the minimum force, the rest of the ffb is not altered by my lut), it sounds that there is something wrong now.
Can you send a Screenshot of your logitech driver settings and again from content manager?
This is my preset from back then:
In the Logitech driver you should set the sensitivity to 50%.
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Hey, any chance you could share your LYT file? I have a FANATEC wheel, whennn I use the Wheelcheck app, it feels too weak.. I am trying different LUT files, ,to see what feels better.So I am trying to get some good settings for my G29 on AC, can anyone tell me if this looks ok, or is there anything I should be changing, especially the curve in the LUT, does that look odd or normal?
Any feedback welcome, thank you.
