Major Issues w/ FFB during Oversteer (OSW DD Wheel)

[Spinelli]

My wheel is acting way to aggressively often during oversteer. The wheel often wants to snap so quickly even in the middle of the slide when I should be controlling it. Not only does the wheel snap extremely quickly, but it also does so with lots of power/torque behind the snap - not just speed - so it's like a huge force spinning the wheel.

It's not even close to reality. I had the same issues with the trucks in Reiza's Formula Truck and am now experiencing the same thing in AM. It's undriveable at times. I've so far tried the SuperKart, Super Trucks and the AutoX Evo. The SuperKart is not a problem because you aren't really drifting it in the same way as the Formula Trucks, Super Trucks and AutoX Evo but those latter three cars are absolutely horrendous at times.

I'm only using around 9 N/m with my Mige and it's trying to break my wrists during oversteer.

In MMos I tried raising the filter up to 25 but that doesn't make a difference. I tried User Effect Damper and saturation at 50%/50% but hardly helps...User Effect Inertia? Nope. User Effect Friction?...Helped @ 50% but just a small amount plus it brings too many negative side-effects to the FFB.

I think part of this is due to the way the ISI engine behaves during oversteer but some of it has to do with my wheel as-well and I don't know what to do. It's ridiculous ATM.

Is there anyone out there with an OSW that can recommend some settings please? This is ruining the game for me (as-well as the money I spent on the wheel).

 

[Niels_at_home]

A few things:
- RealFeelPlugin.ini per car 'SmoothingLevel', try highish, say 4.

Damping is important, but I don't know if you can set an 'overall always present' damping on the MMOS software, or if it just is a modifier for whatever damping the games do.

If 'user effect damper' just modifies the game damping, you have to:
- set FFB level to 'medium' in game Ah we renamed them, I forgot! its not called 'medium' anymore..
- look at your controller.ini and set a damping coefficient, with my SimSteering I go to about 0.6.

Damping is applied as you've loaded the track but NOT yet go in the cockpit. You can feel the 'front tire steering in syrup' type damping effect there. So if the wheel feels 'loose' there, damping isn't working and you have to set it to a higher value / make sure you're editing the correct controller file (userdata/yourname/controller.ini , possibly in your 'my documents' folder)

 

[bluey]

My wheel is acting way to aggressively often during oversteer. The wheel often wants to snap so quickly even in the middle of the slide when I should be controlling it. Not only does the wheel snap extremely quickly, but it also does so with lots of power/torque behind the snap - not just speed - so it's like a huge force spinning the wheel.

It's not even close to reality. I had the same issues with the trucks in Reiza's Formula Truck and am now experiencing the same thing in AM. It's undriveable at times. I've so far tried the SuperKart, Super Trucks and the AutoX Evo. The SuperKart is not a problem because you aren't really drifting it in the same way as the Formula Trucks, Super Trucks and AutoX Evo but those latter three cars are absolutely horrendous at times.

I'm only using around 9 N/m with my Mige and it's trying to break my wrists during oversteer.

In MMos I tried raising the filter up to 25 but that doesn't make a difference. I tried User Effect Damper and saturation at 50%/50% but hardly helps...User Effect Inertia? Nope. User Effect Friction?...Helped @ 50% but just a small amount plus it brings too many negative side-effects to the FFB.

I think part of this is due to the way the ISI engine behaves during oversteer but some of it has to do with my wheel as-well and I don't know what to do. It's ridiculous ATM.

Is there anyone out there with an OSW that can recommend some settings please? This is ruining the game for me (as-well as the money I spent on the wheel).

hi spinelli i have small midge argon tbw 470hz at 12amps so about 18nm mmos min force 0% max 100% overall filter 5% damper user effects 15% saturation 5% ingame 360hz ffb 50% for superv8 ... formula v10 360hz ffb 60% i have NO problem with wheel snapping back with oversteer very smooth and progressive feels like a real car i have made no changes to control ini..although i just try the damper coeffient at 0.5 was 0.17500 and made only a very small diff... ps make sure min force mmos is at zero these are the 2 cars i have driven a lot ..never driven the trucks they maybe very different re ffb are these problems only in AMS or all sims good luck hope this helps

 

[bluey]

My wheel is acting way to aggressively often during oversteer. The wheel often wants to snap so quickly even in the middle of the slide when I should be controlling it. Not only does the wheel snap extremely quickly, but it also does so with lots of power/torque behind the snap - not just speed - so it's like a huge force spinning the wheel.

It's not even close to reality. I had the same issues with the trucks in Reiza's Formula Truck and am now experiencing the same thing in AM. It's undriveable at times. I've so far tried the SuperKart, Super Trucks and the AutoX Evo. The SuperKart is not a problem because you aren't really drifting it in the same way as the Formula Trucks, Super Trucks and AutoX Evo but those latter three cars are absolutely horrendous at times.

I'm only using around 9 N/m with my Mige and it's trying to break my wrists during oversteer.

In MMos I tried raising the filter up to 25 but that doesn't make a difference. I tried User Effect Damper and saturation at 50%/50% but hardly helps...User Effect Inertia? Nope. User Effect Friction?...Helped @ 50% but just a small amount plus it brings too many negative side-effects to the FFB.

I think part of this is due to the way the ISI engine behaves during oversteer but some of it has to do with my wheel as-well and I don't know what to do. It's ridiculous ATM.

Is there anyone out there with an OSW that can recommend some settings please? This is ruining the game for me (as-well as the money I spent on the wheel).

also are you useing +ffb not minus in game

 

[Spinelli]

Thanks Niels and bluey. Your guys' help is really appreciated.

Niels, I totally forgot about the RealFeel.ini settings. I will try smoothing 4.

The "User Effect" settings definitely have an effect but, as you pointed out, I'm not sure if it's based on the game's damping settings or if it's always in effect but I'll check. I had User Effect damping set to as high as 50% but it just still seemed like oversteer wheel behavior was way too powerful and instantaneous. There is a new version of Granity out which allows for adjusting the damping, inertia, etc. right from Granity (the firmware itself) rather than MMos so this might make a difference.

Niels, thank you for providing your personally used controller.ini damping setting. I will try that too. OK, so the controller.ini damping setting is only relevant if A. my wheel's (User Effect in MMos) damping is not an overall-always-present method but a game-modifier method and B. AM's FFB must be set to anyone of non-pure FFB modes (I'm guessing these are equivalent to the old "medium", "high", "full")? Both those conditions need to be met??

Niels, does this mean you personally use FFB @ "medium" (non-pure, lower-refresh-rate FFB mode)??


Thanks, bluey. I wish I could drive with only MMos Overall filter @ 3 and at such high torque levels (18 Nm). At only 9 Nm of torque I am having to set my filter @ 10-15 + 25% - 50% damping (same # for saturation since I haven't experimented much yet). With the RallyX Evo, the bumps are so sharp and harsh that I have to set my MMos filter to absolute maximum @ 31 and, again, this is with only 9 Nm of torque!

 

[bluey]

Thanks Niels and bluey. Your guys' help is really appreciated.

Niels, I totally forgot about the RealFeel.ini settings. I will try smoothing 4.

The "User Effect" settings definitely have an effect but, as you pointed out, I'm not sure if it's based on the game's damping settings or if it's always in effect but I'll check. I had User Effect damping set to as high as 50% but it just still seemed like oversteer wheel behavior was way too powerful and instantaneous. There is a new version of Granity out which allows for adjusting the damping, inertia, etc. right from Granity (the firmware itself) rather than MMos so this might make a difference.

Niels, thank you for providing your personally used controller.ini damping setting. I will try that too. OK, so the controller.ini damping setting is only relevant if A. my wheel's (User Effect in MMos) damping is not an overall-always-present method but a game-modifier method and B. AM's FFB must be set to anyone of non-pure FFB modes (I'm guessing these are equivalent to the old "medium", "high", "full")? Both those conditions need to be met??

Niels, does this mean you personally use FFB @ "medium" (non-pure, lower-refresh-rate FFB mode)??


Thanks, bluey. I wish I could drive with only MMos Overall filter @ 3 and at such high torque levels (18 Nm). At only 9 Nm of torque I am having to set my filter @ 10-15 + 25% - 50% damping (same # for saturation since I haven't experimented much yet). With the RallyX Evo, the bumps are so sharp and harsh that I have to set my MMos filter to absolute maximum @ 31 and, again, this is with only 9 Nm of torque!

hi spinelli i do not drive

 

[bluey]

Thanks Niels and bluey. Your guys' help is really appreciated.

Niels, I totally forgot about the RealFeel.ini settings. I will try smoothing 4.

The "User Effect" settings definitely have an effect but, as you pointed out, I'm not sure if it's based on the game's damping settings or if it's always in effect but I'll check. I had User Effect damping set to as high as 50% but it just still seemed like oversteer wheel behavior was way too powerful and instantaneous. There is a new version of Granity out which allows for adjusting the damping, inertia, etc. right from Granity (the firmware itself) rather than MMos so this might make a difference.

Niels, thank you for providing your personally used controller.ini damping setting. I will try that too. OK, so the controller.ini damping setting is only relevant if A. my wheel's (User Effect in MMos) damping is not an overall-always-present method but a game-modifier method and B. AM's FFB must be set to anyone of non-pure FFB modes (I'm guessing these are equivalent to the old "medium", "high", "full")? Both those conditions need to be met??

Niels, does this mean you personally use FFB @ "medium" (non-pure, lower-refresh-rate FFB mode)??


Thanks, bluey. I wish I could drive with only MMos Overall filter @ 3 and at such high torque levels (18 Nm). At only 9 Nm of torque I am having to set my filter @ 10-15 + 25% - 50% damping (same # for saturation since I haven't experimented much yet). With the RallyX Evo, the bumps are so sharp and harsh that I have to set my MMos filter to absolute maximum @ 31 and, again, this is with only 9 Nm of torque!

hi spineeli i do not drive at 18nm but always have mmos at 100% and ajust ffb in game ie super v8 50% v10 ffb60%...just had a drive with super truck with ffb at 60% as you said nearly impossible to drive went down to 30% ffb then not so bad but not great.....have a drive with the superv8 or v10 with my settings i am sure you will like as VERY smooth.no snapping with oversteer ..also i only use 360 or 180 hz pure i do not like the canned effects with 180hz+1.2 or 3....maybe the new granity 1.10 will help you ..just wish i could use but have argon and only for ioni at this time GOOD LUCK hope you find a solution for your probs

 

[the_prodigy]

I have Ioni HC + Mige10 build from Tomo. I've had similar springy feeling and I looked for FFB linearity / sensitivity option in AMS, something like RF2 have (STS) but couldn't find any, and playing with different mmos setting didn't really help with problem. Too much damping slows the wheel and the feeling gets numbed down.

Then I looked in realfeel.ini and after some changing and testing I've found out that changing the first option which each car has - 'steeringtorque' something - has similar effect like changing ffb linearity. So if there is the number 1800, try putting higher, like 2800 (higher number, less springy) and see how it effects the wheel. It will become lighter in the center and it won't snap back hard. But you will probably want to add some more ingame ffb strenght after that to compensate lighter center.

 

[Spinelli]

Prodigy, I believe each car's RealFeel MaxForceAtSteeringRack setting is like RF 2's NMST (Nominal Max SteerIng Torque) and STC settings (Steering Torque Capability), and iRacing's torque setting. It basically defines what amount of in-game steering torque equals 100% FFB output.

With regards to FFB output linearity (like RF 2's STS [Steering Torque Sensitivity] setting), the option for that sounds like it is FFB Steer Force Exponent in the controller.ini, however, I'm not sure how this setting works alongside RealFeel and if it even works at all when using "Pure"/"Low" FFB.

 

[David Dominguez]

Then I looked in realfeel.ini and after some changing and testing I've found out that changing the first option which each car has - 'steeringtorque' something - has similar effect like changing ffb linearity. So if there is the number 1800, try putting higher, like 2800 (higher number, less springy) and see how it effects the wheel. It will become lighter in the center and it won't snap back hard. But you will probably want to add some more ingame ffb strenght after that to compensate lighter center.

It has nothing to do with linearity, with lower values you'll simply get clipping earlier. Like Spinelli said it just transforms the steering arm forces from the game telemetry into a -1/+1 output for our wheels. If it says 1800 then it means that at -1800/1800N the wheel will reach 100% of the forces that can produce, and any value over it will feel identical.

 

[Spinelli]

I wish it was measured in Nm instead of N. I want to set a global setting so that the same force always equals 100% regardless of car (like RF2's "Steering Torque Capability" and IR's torque setting) but N is measuring something totally different than Nm.

 

[David Dominguez]

Yeah certainly it's not the best solution for DD users.

 

[Peter Klawitter]

did anyone get anywhere with this? i am new to DD with Lenze MCS12 29Nm setup and not sure even where and how to start...

 

[PicoBp]

Just brainstorming guys, but did you turn off Low FFB Boost (set it to 0%)? It's for consumer grade stuff and I can see how it could make the most subtle forces on a DD be 2-3 Nm in an instant.

 

[bluey]

Just brainstorming guys, but did you turn off Low FFB Boost (set it to 0%)? It's for consumer grade stuff and I can see how it could make the most subtle forces on a DD be 2-3 Nm in an instant.[/QUOTE Small midge with argon 360 htz 0% low ffb boost feels good for me