Opinions on my 8020 rig design

[deandsfsdfewsad]

Looking to build a hybrid GT1 rig/ P1-X with slight modifications, let me know your opinion:

Length = 1.35m, width of wheel deck = 0.64m and the height is 0.71m. I'm looking for something sturdy with no flex to hold a SC 2 Pro or something along those lines with a dd wheel and I need a rig to last a long time and provide a base for future upgrades. Planning on adding a Sparco R100 for the reclining back. Let me know what advice you have...

Also, people that own a GT1 or P1-X what improvements would you suggest on the overall chassis design, i'm average hegith just about 6ft and weigh 76kg.

 

[Schaefe]

Looks legit! What Material is the floor it will be standing on? I'd be concerned that the wheels may damage the floor? Do you want to be able to move it a lot? (my rig is on a wooden plate with an old carpet piece attached underneath, I can slide it easily everywhere I want on a wooden floor)

 

[deandsfsdfewsad]

Looks legit! What Material is the floor it will be standing on? I'd be concerned that the wheels may damage the floor? Do you want to be able to move it a lot? (my rig is on a wooden plate with an old carpet piece attached underneath, I can slide it easily everywhere I want on a wooden floor)

It will be on wooden flooring with a carpet rug locally beneath, I'm thinking about dropping them as well to be honest, the idea of mobility (and added height from the ground) seems useful but I personally think when it is fully laden it'll be too heavy for one person to even push plus it'll allow me to distribute the weight evenly on the floor

 

[jamescarruthers]

I am waiting to receive a set of pieces to build an aluminium extrusion rig — should be arriving tomorrow.

I actually think the GT-1 design could be made just as rigid as the P1-X just with extra bracing. Less overall material but smarter. For instance, there are a ton of bracing that could be made. My thinking goes... they have to sell a "better" version — and the best way to do that is making it look stronger all-round by building it out of bigger extrusion.

The design I've gone for is based something around a GT-1 - but with some extra bracing around the wheel deck supports.

I reckon you could add a couple more corner brackets behind the wheel deck supports on to the lower main frame. Not because it doesn't look really strong, but because those brackets are cheap and you might as well.

It also looks longer than it needs to be - the pedal area has a huge empty space beyond it?

 

[Chrhun]

How do you adjust the angle of the wheelbase with that kind of mounting?

 

[deandsfsdfewsad]

I am waiting to receive a set of pieces to build an aluminium extrusion rig — should be arriving tomorrow.

I actually think the GT-1 design could be made just as rigid as the P1-X just with extra bracing. Less overall material but smarter. For instance, there are a ton of bracing that could be made. My thinking goes... they have to sell a "better" version — and the best way to do that is making it look stronger all-round by building it out of bigger extrusion.

The design I've gone for is based something around a GT-1 - but with some extra bracing around the wheel deck supports.

I reckon you could add a couple more corner brackets behind the wheel deck supports on to the lower main frame. Not because it doesn't look really strong, but because those brackets are cheap and you might as well.

View attachment 371643

It also looks longer than it needs to be - the pedal area has a huge empty space beyond it?

I would agree the GT1 does look pretty sturdy but I am willing to say 'waste' a bit extra for the beefier section as it looks really nice with the 160mm section also I guess Sim Lab needs to refresh their product range every so often.

I think that I will likely overbuy in brackets, bolts and t-nuts and throw a couple in those regions you highlighted. In terms of length, it's apparently the standard GT1 length and the P1 is actually 50mm longer, I think it looks a bit too long because my wheel deck is too close to my seat so it will be pushed back when built. Also, compared to the GT1 I lengthened the pedal section from 44mm 40*40 extrusion to 50mm 40*40mm extrusion as I saw a comment from someone saying they wish it was a tad longer.

 

[deandsfsdfewsad]

How do you adjust the angle of the wheelbase with that kind of mounting?

No it would be fixed but my solution around that is the mount bracket for my SC 2 Pro:

at least to me this seems like it should allow me the flexibility to make those adjustments

 

[Chrhun]

Don't you think that kind of mount will flex? Just kidding, looks good!

 

[deandsfsdfewsad]

Don't you think that kind of mount will flex? Just kidding, looks good!

Kidding aside, I've been wondering that too it's a 'free' bracket from Simracingbay when you order the Simucube 2 Pro although I believe it's steel and not aluminium so it can be a bit thinner without flexing but I hope they'll be no flex

 

[jamescarruthers]

Many years ago there was an article in my car clubs magazine about the stiffness of the chassis on a Triumph Spitfire.

Someone had taken a bare chassis and done all sorts of torsional/twist measurements. They came to the conclusion that adding x, y and z extra piece of metal increases stiffness by a reasonable amount and was worth the effort.

One thing that they hadn't done was measure the stiffness with the tub mounted. There was no point in adding all of those extra pieces, because the chassis combined with the tub was actually pretty stiff (relatively, in no way stiff, but stiff enough and in no way as jelly like as the chassis only measurements made out)

That bracket will be fine when combined both a stiff deck and the wheel base - it all forms a structure.

 

[EsxPaul]

Kidding aside, I've been wondering that too it's a 'free' bracket from Simracingbay when you order the Simucube 2 Pro although I believe it's steel and not aluminium so it can be a bit thinner without flexing but I hope they'll be no flex

Have no fears about flex in that SRB mount. I'm using a 99% identical one and they are very solid.

 

[deandsfsdfewsad]

Have no fears about flex in that SRB mount. I'm using a 99% identical one and they are very solid.

okay perfect as I was considering picking up the wheel deck from Sim Lab with the front faced mount that's 10mm+ aluminium plate but, that's quite expensive and also it's 600mm wide and my wheel deck is 640mm so I'd have to re-design my build to accommodate it.

 

[EsxPaul]

okay perfect as I was considering picking up the wheel deck from Sim Lab with the front faced mount that's 10mm+ aluminium plate but, that's quite expensive and also it's 600mm wide and my wheel deck is 640mm so I'd have to re-design my build to accommodate it.

I faced the same issue, although my deck was too narrow for the SIM Lab mount, at 520mm.

 

[ThugUK]

Looks good.

I too designed and built my own but made mine 1500 long, and so glad I did.
I added an SFX100 and was able to put the rear actuators behind the seat making my seating position more central and I don’t hit my elbows on the SFX100 like people with shorter rigs do.

You may not add to it, but then again.... you just ‘might’.
Make sure you make it correctly from the get go and you won’t have any ‘if only’s’.

Many years ago there was an article in my car clubs magazine about the stiffness of the chassis on a Triumph Spitfire.

Someone had taken a bare chassis and done all sorts of torsional/twist measurements. They came to the conclusion that adding x, y and z extra piece of metal increases stiffness by a reasonable amount and was worth the effort.

One thing that they hadn't done was measure the stiffness with the tub mounted. There was no point in adding all of those extra pieces, because the chassis combined with the tub was actually pretty stiff (relatively, in no way stiff, but stiff enough and in no way as jelly like as the chassis only measurements made out)

That bracket will be fine when combined both a stiff deck and the wheel base - it all forms a structure.

In the early 1990’s I fully restored a Triumph Spitfire (1.5 sport with overdrive). Did everything myself from welding the floors and sills to respraying it. I still have the scars to prove it. Loved that car. When I sold it I give everything to the new owner including all the photos I took of the build. Really wish I kept them as a reminder though.

I restored it in a neighbours garage. One day I cut my thumb and finger really badly on a newly welded piece of floor (whilst tightening up the seatbelt anchor point and the spanner slipped) and knowing my neighbours wife was a nurse knocked on the door for assistance. She answered it in her dressing gown and asked me to sit on the side of the bath with my hand in the sink (so I didn’t drip blood everywhere) whilst she sat on the loo seat and cleaned and dressed my wound. Whilst sat there her dressing gown opened and she flashed ‘everything’ to me and didn’t seem in a rush to cover up either. I often wonder, did she do it on purpose. Took my mind off the pain in any case.

 

[deandsfsdfewsad]

I faced the same issue, although my deck was too narrow for the SIM Lab mount, at 520mm.

View attachment 371862

What is that cover on your base?

 

[EsxPaul]

What is that cover on your base?

I think you are referring to what looks like a large ring at front of the base?

If so, that's part of the SC2 You can also see it (less clearly) in the picture you posted.

 

[EsxPaul]

There was one thing that crossed my mind after looking at your design (looks good, by the way )

The pedal deck is locked in with the steering wheel uprights so I'm wondering what you would do if you ever wanted/needed to move the pedals forward, independent of the wheel deck.

If you don't think you'd ever need to, then you'd be left with what looks like quite a large unused space at the very front of the rig.

 

[deandsfsdfewsad]

There was one thing that crossed my mind after looking at your design (looks good, by the way )

The pedal deck is locked in with the steering wheel uprights so I'm wondering what you would do if you ever wanted/needed to move the pedals forward, independent of the wheel deck.

If you don't think you'd ever need to, then you'd be left with what looks like quite a large unused space at the very front of the rig.

Do you mind eyeballing these dimensions/ comparing to your current rig? When I bring the pedals as far forward as possible (can maybe do another 5-10cm) this is the amount of unused space left:

it is 245mm however, this is without moving the wheel deck. I lengthend pedal runner by 60mm compared to the GT1 (to 500mm from 440mm). To put into perspective my wheel deck is 630mm from the absolute front of the rig as shown:

Therefore, i do have an ability to go back and forth if I need more space. This seems like quite a lot of space in my head but since I've never owned a rig before these anthropmetric measurements are heavily based on the existing GT1 rig as I want to play it quite safe in my design.

From the profile corner to the wheel deck top it's 550mm which again to me seems good plus i'l gain extra height from the wheel deck mount (40mm).

My only other concern is that with adding additional bracket on the wheel deck vertical profile my pedals may be too high compared to my seating position. I'm thinking of using a Sparco R100 into a seat slider so I won't be gaining much vertical height in relation to my pedals do you think this could be an issue?

I know this is a bit like a bombardment of questions so I do highly appreciate the time looking through these pictures. I decided to drop the wheel casters I think it looks nicer and also the plastic end caps after I found out that they break very easily and don't often sit flush against the profile section.

P.S. If this does go right I will look to share the design, all included parts and the cost with others on the forum if they are at all interested in something similar.

 

[EsxPaul]

@deandsfsdfewsad

I took the approach of slightly overestimating the overall rig length I thought I might need as I didn't want to end up sitting there with my feet hanging out over the end

One thing I have learnt is that no matter how much you measure stuff out and plan things, you'll end up moving stuff around quite a bit once you sit in the real thing. As long as you've built in some space to do that you'll be good to go.

To give you some reference, I'm 6'1 in height.

The overall length of my rig is 1400mm compared to your 1350mm and I ended up with 150mm of unused space at the front end.



If I'm following your 2nd picture correctly, the rear edge of your wheel deck is 630mm from the rear of the main frame. For me, that measurement is 740mm so my guess is that you'll end up pushing your wheel deck and pedals quite a bit further forward than is shown in your pictures, eating into that 245mm of space shown at the front end. So basically, I think you are pretty well set with the measurements you have.

My profile corner to wheel deck top is also 550mm which I've found to be adequate, although less than I had pictured in my mind. If I had a second chance I would have made that 600 or even 650mm, just for some wiggle room to bolt in shifter brackets, button boxes or tablet displays etc. Just something to think about if you see yourself going down that path in the future



At present, you look to be setup for the F1 style seated position, with your feet being up relatively high in relation to your backside. If you wanted to change that to a GT style later on, your pedal deck could go all the way down into the 40x160 if need be and you'd also then be able to slide it back and fourth, independent of the wheel deck.

The only small issue I see (if it were me) is that your pedal/wheel deck are coupled together when in the F1 style.

If it helps, I've attached a screenshot of the measurements that were spat out by the Framedesigner software back when I mocked up what I have. It's very cookie cutter and basic in comparison to what you have planned but might serve as another point of reference for you.

 

[Chrhun]

I think you have wrong info the the plastic end caps. They are very studry, I've never broken one despite removing and installing them numerous times. They make the rig look nicer.