Painting silver aluminium profile rig
- Thread starter Rnb1
- Start date
I would never paint aluminium profiles. The paint will chip off easily and eventually fall off completelly, ending up in a catastrophic aesthetic disaster. Also, how do you plan on painting the areas inside the profiles? Are you also painting the bolts and nuts? Anytime you have to tighten or lossen anything the paint will chip off too.
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brc19
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I use Moly Resin, quite durable. Heat cured though so tough to do lengthy pieces.
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Extruded aluminium paints better than most metals as the surface has excellent adhesion. Don't sand it - you don't want to remove the anodised finish as it will immediately start to oxidise. Nothing out the ordinary needed - thoroughly degrease, and paint. Etch primer would probably do more harm than good - the anodising has already done the job the primer would - only better. Don't expect miracles though - you are going to be rubbing painted metal against painted metal - that never ends well.
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So I've tried a few things over the weekend.
1) no primer, no rubbing down, straight top coat in ordinary halfords gloss Black. - do not do this, it flakes off.
2) no sanding, upol #8 acid etch primer, then top coating in rustoleum combicolor. - took ages to dry, but does not flake, I can rub a coin over the top of it lightly and it doesn't mark, push harder and it does, but then again, so does black anodising.
3) no sanding, no primer, straight topcoat rustoleum combi colour. Very similar to the version that I put primer on first.
So far, I don't think primer is needed with the rustoleum, rustoleum do say a primer is not needed with combi colour.
Next step, I shall be trying different lacquers. Satin and matt.
1) no primer, no rubbing down, straight top coat in ordinary halfords gloss Black. - do not do this, it flakes off.
2) no sanding, upol #8 acid etch primer, then top coating in rustoleum combicolor. - took ages to dry, but does not flake, I can rub a coin over the top of it lightly and it doesn't mark, push harder and it does, but then again, so does black anodising.
3) no sanding, no primer, straight topcoat rustoleum combi colour. Very similar to the version that I put primer on first.
So far, I don't think primer is needed with the rustoleum, rustoleum do say a primer is not needed with combi colour.
Next step, I shall be trying different lacquers. Satin and matt.
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Further test,
I have used just primer, ran a screw up and down it and it is rock hard! Which makes me think the previous weakness is possibly in the rustoleum top coat
I have now tried fresh primer, and bog standard Halford car gloss black,
I am hoping Halford paints work the best as a top coat, if they do, a full colour change could be achieved for under £20!
I am still yet to test a lacquer.
I have used just primer, ran a screw up and down it and it is rock hard! Which makes me think the previous weakness is possibly in the rustoleum top coat
I have now tried fresh primer, and bog standard Halford car gloss black,
I am hoping Halford paints work the best as a top coat, if they do, a full colour change could be achieved for under £20!
I am still yet to test a lacquer.
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This.
people are giving painting advice as if it's raw aluminum. Anodizing is the ultimate acid etch/sealing treatment to make aluminum's o2 reactive surface inert and you're not gonna do better at home. Lots of painted aluminum products are anodized first in fact. De-grease and use your preferred primer/topcoat system or a DTM (direct to metal) product
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Kek700
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I had some communication with someone here in Racedepartment a while ago about his rig, not that the wrap covering was part of my interests in it.
He used car wrap, and created a motor sport graphics pattern on his rig, really looked good.
This would be an easy to do, reasonably cheap, great looking Rig.
You can mimick your favourite race car graphics too.
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You wouldn’t remember the thread would you ? Looking to do this myselfI had some communication with someone here in Racedepartment a while ago about his rig, not that the wrap covering was part of my interests in it.
He used car wrap, and created a motor sport graphics pattern on his rig, really looked good.
This would be an easy to do, reasonably cheap, great looking Rig.
You can mimick your favourite race car graphics too.
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Kek700
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No I do not, I am not sure even if I could remember that he would want me to give his name and rig. He was quite particular about his privacy and was doing me a favour talking to me about his rig. Which I copied, buying very similar.
But doing it is quite easy to do and if diy is not for you, to find someone to do it for you is reasonably cheap and easy, any car wrapper I am sure would do it to your design.
But doing it is quite easy to do and if diy is not for you, to find someone to do it for you is reasonably cheap and easy, any car wrapper I am sure would do it to your design.
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Any chance of a picture of yours ? I’m trying to get idea’s, I could inbox you
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I got my Swedish Rig Design Modus Ultimate-alurig painted by a autoshop. All gold. Superb result. Does not chip, been using it daily for 18 montgs now…
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So was this a silver aluminium rig???would be happy to send you a picture.
View attachment 558126View attachment 558125View attachment 558127
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Kek700
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No painted black, not anodized, I think that would have cost a lot to do.
Not sure how companies cost and get their extrusion, so cannot comment.
I thought It was anodised, when I bought it, but was happy with the painted one and after 1 1/2 years still looks reasonably like new with very few noticeable marks.
So would I prefer anodised black, probably not.
Not sure how companies cost and get their extrusion, so cannot comment.
I thought It was anodised, when I bought it, but was happy with the painted one and after 1 1/2 years still looks reasonably like new with very few noticeable marks.
So would I prefer anodised black, probably not.
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