Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0

[EchoLeader]

Hello Rasmus, posting here as in response to your response to my Review. I attempted to test the Normal Center LUT, and the wheel wouldn't calibrate.

Some disassembly later, and it appears my optical encoder has a few little cracks in it. So I've ordered a new one. Hopefully this contributed to the off-center issue as well... we'll see and I'll update as soon as the replacement part is installed!

Thanks again,
James

 

[RasmusP]

Hello Rasmus, posting here as in response to your response to my Review. I attempted to test the Normal Center LUT, and the wheel wouldn't calibrate.

Some disassembly later, and it appears my optical encoder has a few little cracks in it. So I've ordered a new one. Hopefully this contributed to the off-center issue as well... we'll see and I'll update as soon as the replacement part is installed!

Thanks again,
James

Sorry that it took me so long to reply! The alert got lost somehow it seems...
I'd say the optical encoder definitely is responsible for the wheel going off-center!
The LUTs have some vibration/resistance in the center. The default settings are a bit "dead" at the center so the encoder probably has less issues spotting the center position.

I hope your wheel will work as it should after putting in the replacement!

 

[freakingfreak77]

Hi Rasmus, absolutely love the recommended LUT. One question: should I be using FFBclip app together with your LUT? Currently using it and wondering what settings should I set for FFBclip?

 

[RasmusP]

Hi Rasmus, absolutely love the recommended LUT. One question: should I be using FFBclip app together with your LUT? Currently using it and wondering what settings should I set for FFBclip?

Hi,
Ffbclip is an awesome piece of coding and very useful to easily see how much you're clipping.

But with my luts, please just delete the app.

My luts are working best when you don't feel a hole (too low gain) and don't feel a notch (too high gain).
So my advice would be to delete ffbclip and then just go on track and use numpad + and - until driving slowly (30-60 km/h) and driving left and right feels good when passing the center position.
For almost every car the "perfect gain" is somewhere between 80-120%.

That car specific gain will be stored for that car on that track. So you sadly have to repeat this every time you drive a track with that car for the first time.

There won't be too much clipping. A little bit of clipping is okay so just go for the best feel in the center

 

[EchoLeader]

Sorry that it took me so long to reply! The alert got lost somehow it seems...
I'd say the optical encoder definitely is responsible for the wheel going off-center!
The LUTs have some vibration/resistance in the center. The default settings are a bit "dead" at the center so the encoder probably has less issues spotting the center position.

I hope your wheel will work as it should after putting in the replacement!

OK, got the brass optical encoder installed last night. The G27 now calibrates correctly and my initial tests with the Normal Center and Recommended LUTs/Settings went great! No more drifting 'center'!

 

[nikosm]

Hi Rasmus!

First, I'd like to thank you for all of your work. I've followed your guide and everything feels great. I do have a couple of questions, if you don't mind.

In CSP, should FFB Tweaks be enabled or disabled? Also, I just realized that after tabbing out and back into the game, FFB feels much stronger/more stiff. I can't tell if the FFB is supposed to feel the way it does before or after tabbing out. Have you heard of this before?

Thanks again for everything!

 

[RasmusP]

Hi Ramus!

First, I'd like to thank you for all of your work. I've followed your guide and everything feels great. I do have a couple of questions, if you don't mind.

In CSP, should FFB Tweaks be enabled or disabled? Also, I just realized that after tabbing out and back into the game, FFB feels much stronger/more stiff. I can't tell if the FFB is supposed to feel the way it does before or after tabbing out. Have you heard of this before?

Thanks again for everything!

Hi!

The csp tweaks are great with stronger and faster spinning wheels but I'm not sure if you want any damping while driving at the limit with a Logitech wheel.
I would recommend to try it out! They are definitely "realistic" so worth a try.

Make sure to have the standard gyro in the assetto control section disabled!
Even without the csp tweaks I would recommend to disable that as it's not really realistic imo.

About the stronger ffb after tabbing out:
My guess would be a different profile being loaded. Which wheel are you using exactly?

Do you have different settings for a Assetto profile and the general profile?

With my g27 I always found the profiler to be buggy... Sometimes the profiles applied, sometimes not. In the end I wrote down the settings for each game and adjusted the global profile before playing.

Hint: you can click the slider and then use the arrow keys for going on steps of 5, when you can't get it right with the mouse.
Always annoyed me to have 538° when I wanted to have 540°

 

[nikosm]

Hi!

The csp tweaks are great with stronger and faster spinning wheels but I'm not sure if you want any damping while driving at the limit with a Logitech wheel.
I would recommend to try it out! They are definitely "realistic" so worth a try.

Make sure to have the standard gyro in the assetto control section disabled!
Even without the csp tweaks I would recommend to disable that as it's not really realistic imo.

About the stronger ffb after tabbing out:
My guess would be a different profile being loaded. Which wheel are you using exactly?

Do you have different settings for a Assetto profile and the general profile?

With my g27 I always found the profiler to be buggy... Sometimes the profiles applied, sometimes not. In the end I wrote down the settings for each game and adjusted the global profile before playing.

Hint: you can click the slider and then use the arrow keys for going on steps of 5, when you can't get it right with the mouse.
Always annoyed me to have 538° when I wanted to have 540°

Thank you so much for the quick response.

I'm using a G29 with Logitech G Hub. I don't have any custom profiles set, just using the default at 900 degrees/500 Sensitivity/Centering Spring option off. I've also locked the configuration to rule out any changes happening in G Hub.

The stiffness changes after tabbing out whether I launch Assetto Corsa through Content Manager or directly through Steam, so I believe that should rule out any settings within Content Manager as well.

I wish I had some more sim racing experience so that I could tell which setting is correct. They both provide feedback for collisions, loss of traction etc. Perhaps I should use FFBClip just to get more information on which is more accurate? Not sure if it can be used for something like that. I don't use it since I read that you recommended we don't.

Thanks again!

 

[RasmusP]

Hmm, strange one then!



There are 2 things that come to my mind then:

- degrees are changing: do you have to steer less after tabbing back in? Using less degrees compresses the ffb into a lower range of motion so it becomes stronger



- check your car ffb gain: either use the ffb app from the app bar (default assetto app, original icon is a little steering wheel. Content manager might change the icon)

Or use numpad plus and minus and the car gain will be displayed at the top of your screen.

Maybe you're changing the car gain?

Afaik AC doesn't lose input signal when you tab out of it!

I often find myself honking or activating headlights when I'm writing something while ac is running

 

[nikosm]

Hmm, strange one then!



There are 2 things that come to my mind then:

- degrees are changing: do you have to steer less after tabbing back in? Using less degrees compresses the ffb into a lower range of motion so it becomes stronger



- check your car ffb gain: either use the ffb app from the app bar (default assetto app, original icon is a little steering wheel. Content manager might change the icon)

Or use numpad plus and minus and the car gain will be displayed at the top of your screen.

Maybe you're changing the car gain?

Afaik AC doesn't lose input signal when you tab out of it!

I often find myself honking or activating headlights when I'm writing something while ac is running

Thank you for the suggestions. The turning radius and gain both stay the same in-game. I just did some more testing and think I found the culprit.

The issue only occurs while Logitech G Hub is running, so I related it to that.

I also realized the wheel does not return smoothly while the car is stationary, though it does while driving. When the car is stationary, it'll return in steps. Also, when I turn the wheel while stationary, it doesn't feel smooth. It feels like there are steps along the way (tightens and loosens).

Once I tab out and back in, the wheel is harder to turn and returns to center more quickly/smoothly while stationary, which pointed me to the Centering Spring In Non Force Feedback Games setting in G Hub.

This has always been unchecked.
If I check it, with the default value of 20, the wheel goes back to feeling the way it did before I tabbed out. Loose, steppy/shaky while stationary. Tightens a bit while driving.
If I check it and increase the centering strength in G Hub to 100, it feels the way it would after tabbing out and back in while it was unchecked. Tight, harder to turn, wheel returns more quickly while stationary, smooth, quiet.
If I leave it unchecked, my FFB changes to the tighter mode after tabbing out (original issue).

I have a feeling this is caused by some kind of miscommunication between AC and G Hub at launch.

When I first launch the game, it feels like it does with the setting checked and on the default value of 20. Once I tab out, AC and G Hub probably realize that setting should be off and the game's centering activates. G Hub's centering enabled and on 100 feeling like AC's centering could be coincidence.

I'm still confused as to which of these settings is correct. The mode where it's tighter feels better, but I'm not sure if any FFB effects are lost since the wheel is always tight. Does one or the other sound correct to you?

Also, my car's horn has been hoking as I typed this entire message.

 

[garryme4]

Rasmus, my wheel is like crazy when driving slowly, impossible to drive slow what its can be?

 

[RasmusP]

Rasmus, my wheel is like crazy when driving slowly, impossible to drive slow what its can be?

Too much ffb gain. But there are multiple things that might cause it:
Is the min (minimum) force set to 0%?

Are you using 900° in the wheel software and the game?
Are you using the correct gain (100 in the wheel software (not available with g29), 50% with recommended lut?

Do you have a g920? Some of these wheels have too much gain inbuilt..

Are we talking about ac or acc?

 

[garryme4]

Too much ffb gain. But there are multiple things that might cause it:
Is the min (minimum) force set to 0%?

Are you using 900° in the wheel software and the game?
Are you using the correct gain (100 in the wheel software (not available with g29), 50% with recommended lut?

Do you have a g920? Some of these wheels have too much gain inbuilt..

Are we talking about ac or acc?

Game is AC,

All settings done by your instruction, gain is 50, minforce 0%
wheel g29 900degs ofc

 

[garryme4]

Ok then there is something VERY wrong with your Assetto Corsa options!

Let's start without any of my settings and just with the basic!

1. Go into documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini
   1. ENABLED = 0
   2. This deactivates the whole ff_post_process.ini!
2. Just go ingame and in the steering options:
   1. Gain: 100% (the overall ffb strength slider)
   2. Filter: 0
   3. Min Force: 15%
   4. understeer: untick!
   5. the rest doesn't matter, I suggest you put the sliders all down to 3% for now
3. Go on Track with whatever car you want (maybe take a different one)
   1. move the mouse cursor to the very right and click on the wheel icon
   2. The FFB app opens and here you see the car specific ffb gain
   3. Put that to 100% (click on it or numpad + or -

Now you should at least have some FFB around the center!
It doesn't seem like my settings wouldn't be working, it rather sounds like something else is completely wrong.

thanks, i figured out,.... i left slip on 12% abs 2% road 5%(instead of 10) and also looks like it depends of a car and track...

 

[RasmusP]

Game is AC,

All settings done by your instruction, gain is 50, minforce 0%
wheel g29 900degs ofc

thanks, i figured out,.... i left slip on 12% abs 2% road 5%(instead of 10) and also looks like it depends of a car and track...

Oh okay, nice! If you need any further help just ask again

 

[RasmusP]

Thank you for the suggestions. The turning radius and gain both stay the same in-game. I just did some more testing and think I found the culprit.

The issue only occurs while Logitech G Hub is running, so I related it to that.

I also realized the wheel does not return smoothly while the car is stationary, though it does while driving. When the car is stationary, it'll return in steps. Also, when I turn the wheel while stationary, it doesn't feel smooth. It feels like there are steps along the way (tightens and loosens).

Once I tab out and back in, the wheel is harder to turn and returns to center more quickly/smoothly while stationary, which pointed me to the Centering Spring In Non Force Feedback Games setting in G Hub.

This has always been unchecked.
If I check it, with the default value of 20, the wheel goes back to feeling the way it did before I tabbed out. Loose, steppy/shaky while stationary. Tightens a bit while driving.
If I check it and increase the centering strength in G Hub to 100, it feels the way it would after tabbing out and back in while it was unchecked. Tight, harder to turn, wheel returns more quickly while stationary, smooth, quiet.
If I leave it unchecked, my FFB changes to the tighter mode after tabbing out (original issue).

I have a feeling this is caused by some kind of miscommunication between AC and G Hub at launch.

When I first launch the game, it feels like it does with the setting checked and on the default value of 20. Once I tab out, AC and G Hub probably realize that setting should be off and the game's centering activates. G Hub's centering enabled and on 100 feeling like AC's centering could be coincidence.

I'm still confused as to which of these settings is correct. The mode where it's tighter feels better, but I'm not sure if any FFB effects are lost since the wheel is always tight. Does one or the other sound correct to you?

Also, my car's horn has been hoking as I typed this entire message.

Sorry I didn't reply anymore! Simply forgot about it

The centering spring is completely articifial and should be at 0% and off (if both is possible at the same time?).

While you are stationary (and I mean 0 km/h, not rolling at all), the wheel shouldn't go back to the center at all. It should be difficult to turn it (which is the damper ffb channel. You can lower this in the ini files or via content manager: experimental ffb settings).

Sadly this damper ffb feels awful in my opinion on Logitech wheels. It's just vibrations...
With thrustmaster or fanatec wheels it feels like a real car though!

So anyway, your wheel should not recenter when you're parking! If it does, then the artificial centering spring from Logitech is active...

The recentering of the wheel when driving comes from the physics of the front tyres wanting to point straight (caster angle).

Hope that helps a little? I never saw the g-hub live so can't really tell you what would be correct.

 

[garryme4]

my wheel shakes same! how it can be solved?

my settings:
Gain: 50%
filter: 0%
min force: 0%

kerbs 2%
road 5%
slip1-23% no changes for this issue
abs 1-23% same no changes....

on some roads like shuto revival project or La Canyons, is very hard to drive slowly, wheel shakes like crazy.... where is tha problem? deadzone? or what? if just lowering FFB gain, i got loosing ffb effects ;(

 

[RasmusP]

That doesn't look like it should..
Is your sensitivity in the wheel software at 50%?

And you definitely have 900° set in the wheel software and in the game?

If yes, then I would suggest testing if it goes away if you set the first line in the lut to 0.

Open the lut file with the notepad editor and simply type in 0.00 on the right side in the first line. Maybe the value is too high for your wheel so put that to 0 for a test.

If the shaking is still there, test a different lut.
G920 or dfgt lut (100% gain then!) are a lot softer.

 

[nikosm]

Sorry I didn't reply anymore! Simply forgot about it

The centering spring is completely articifial and should be at 0% and off (if both is possible at the same time?).

While you are stationary (and I mean 0 km/h, not rolling at all), the wheel shouldn't go back to the center at all. It should be difficult to turn it (which is the damper ffb channel. You can lower this in the ini files or via content manager: experimental ffb settings).

Sadly this damper ffb feels awful in my opinion on Logitech wheels. It's just vibrations...
With thrustmaster or fanatec wheels it feels like a real car though!

So anyway, your wheel should not recenter when you're parking! If it does, then the artificial centering spring from Logitech is active...

The recentering of the wheel when driving comes from the physics of the front tyres wanting to point straight (caster angle).

Hope that helps a little? I never saw the g-hub live so can't really tell you what would be correct.

Thank you for the reply. I ended up reinstalling Logitech's software and it seems to have fixed the issue. FFB definitely feels more accurate now. The centering spring at 100 was drowning a lot out. Not sure what was causing it to enable after tabbing out.

I'm already looking into Fanatec wheels. Just picked up some Clubsport V3 pedals. Until then, your LUT is working very nicely. Thanks again for all of the time and effort you put into this!

 

[RasmusP]

Thank you for the reply. I ended up reinstalling Logitech's software and it seems to have fixed the issue. FFB definitely feels more accurate now. The centering spring at 100 was drowning a lot out. Not sure what was causing it to enable after tabbing out.

I'm already looking into Fanatec wheels. Just picked up some Clubsport V3 pedals. Until then, your LUT is working very nicely. Thanks again for all of the time and effort you put into this!

Nice to hear!

The v3 are awesome! They have some weak points but for the money, they are miles ahead of anything below them and good enough to be "good enough" compares to the high end pedals.

I can definitely recommend the brake performance kit if you're a bit unhappy with the stock brake feel!