SPR and DPR in wheel settings

[seamount0]

Hi all, my problem is that AC has not good FFB with my fanatec CSW 2.5
So to better understand: fanatec suggest to have DPR=100 AND SPR=0; may you please explain to me what do those paramaters mean ? what should change if I set them 0 ?

More in general, I like F1 70's cars; which FFB parameters do you use in wheel and in game ?

 

[RasmusP]

DPR=100 AND SPR=0;

Little explanation in general:
FFB can be sent in 2 different ways:
1. Directly to the wheel driver (game needs compatibility for that wheel)

2. DirectInput by Microsoft (part of DirectX).
DirectInput has 3 ffb channels:
- main ffb (FOR)
- damper (DPR)
- spring (SPR)

All games I know only use the main ffb channel for everything and some use the dpr channel for some additional stuff.
In AC and ACC, the dpr channel is used for the "rubber effect" when standing still (0-5 km/h).
The main ffb fades out to 0% when standing still and if you set dpr to 0% in the wheel software, your wheel is "dead" when standing still.

Dirt Rally 1 & 2.0 use the dpr channel for "wheel weight". Simply damping the steering a bit so that it's not all over the place.

Setting dpr to 100 in the fanatec menu will give you the possibility to set the wheel weight slider in the game to your liking.

Setting dpr to 0 will make the weight slider in the game irrelevant.

So that's the damper (DPR) channel.

The spring channel is not used by any modern game at all.
And modern means everything after GTR 1.
I honestly have no clue if there's a game using it at all.

For some bizarre reason the simracing community started to set dpr and spr to 0% and wrote that into every guide on the internet.

One big part of this is that the standing still rubber effect from AC (and other games) feels like sandpaper in the ffb motor for ALL LOGITECH WHEELS.

However for belt driven wheels like Thrustmaster and Fanatec, the standing still rubber effect feels quite good!


So with fanatec:
Just keep for, dpr, spr all at 100. Not more, not less. This will just send whatever the games output 1to1 to your hands.

More in general, I like F1 70's cars; which FFB parameters do you use in wheel and in game ?

The car type doesn't matter for AC.
You simply set your wheel and AC to 900° and AC will sync the virtual and real wheel to the correct rotation of the car in reality.

So when using a car with 350° steering angle in reality, you will have a perfectly synced wheel for 350°.

Sadly there's no "softlock" for fanatec and the AC softlock (hidden in the ini files) is absolutely awful!

So after 350° your virtual wheel will stop turning and your real wheel will become "numb". You will have the same ffb strength that you ended up with at 350° and it will stay like that until you come back into the real range.

I never had issues with this!


Then I set the fanatec to 100% for everything and use 60% gain in AC.

If you want the average ffb to be softer, lower the AC gain.
If you want the peak forces to be lower & the average ffb lower: lower the FF in the fanatec menu.

You can dial in the dynamic range that way.

Average ffb = AC gain multiplied with the fanatec FF.
Peak output = only the fanatec FF


In AC, it's quite easy from there:
No ffb post processing, no minimum gain, no experimental settings etc.

I personally use Kerbs at 5%, road at 10% and abs at 20%.

Slip effect is a separate topic. It vibrates when any of your tyres slips.
So for drifting this needs to be 0%!
For normal racing where you don't want any slipping, I'm using 20% so abs and no-abs cars feel the same when braking.


I'll post my content manager Screenshots tonight when I'll get home!

 

[RasmusP]

Got home a bit earlier:

Note: I've reduced the Damper gain to 60% to make the standing still rubber effect a bit weaker. You could reduce the DPR in the Fanatec menu to 60 instead, but I'm using the same Fanatec-Profile for all sims.


And then I'm using CSP too. I like the new Gyro and I like some "Range Compression", which works similar to power steering in real cars.
Boosts low forces without killing the muscle memory effect. (Like the dynamic mode of the ffb clip app!).
For cars without power steering, use 100% (default). For very modern cars that definitely have a massive power steering servo: Use up to 250%!
Beware though, when raising Range Compression, you need to lower the gain!

So I'm using 60% gain and 120% Range Compression.
For 250% Range Compression, I'm using only 35-40% gain!

White values = default, red values = customized.

Ignore what's below the Range Compression stuff. It's fancy stuff for professional use.

And for Fanatec (I don't have my wheel plugged in so can't show you my own control panel):
Like this. But with 900° and since I have the V3 Pedals, BLI at 95% to know when getting close to max brake input.
SHO doesn't matter for me, since I only have the Mclaren v2 rim right now, which has no motors.
My Porsche 918 rim had them and I liked it at 100%.

 

[seamount0]

A great thank you RasmusP for your inputs !
I will check your settings in the next weekend.

In general, my problem is that in AC (that I like for the many mods, gfx etc) I have a FBB from my CSW2.5 that is less "detailed" (I would say "flat") than with other sims (AMS 1&2, RFACTOR2), and I would like to be able to have a better feeling in AC.

Thank you again

 

[seamount0]

I may I ask you what "unlock experimental options" adds or changes ?

 

[RasmusP]

I may I ask you what "unlock experimental options" adds or changes ?

It simply makes the Gyro, Damper and Minimum Damper settings available. Otherwise they are greyed out.

The Kunos Gyro is a gyro effect for the front wheels. The faster they spin, the more dampened the steering gets. Makes the wheel a bit calmer on fast straights.
The issue though: If you're losing the rear end in a corner, the front wheels still grip and are pointing into the "trajectory" of the car.
Basically the front wheels will still be straight, but the car chassis and rear wheels will be pointing 30-45° towards the inside of the corner.

The Kunos Gyro still applies the gyro effect to 0° steering angle, which doesn't make sense.

In short: The Kunos Gyro applies the front wheel gyro effect to the chassis, instead of the front wheel direction.

The CSP gyro fixes this.
Feels quite differently, but is definitely more "real". And I like it better!

The Damper level is simply the standing still rubber effect strength.

And the Minimum Damper level should always be at 0!!! It slows down the wheel in general, which you don't want.
We Fanatec users use the DRI setting for this!

 

[Avenger2000]

May I ask which Fanatec setup you own? I have a GT dd pro and and am having trouble setting it up. I thought I’ll try your settings but I don’t know which wheelbase you own for reference. Thanks.

 

[RasmusP]

May I ask which Fanatec setup you own? I have a GT dd pro and and am having trouble setting it up. I thought I’ll try your settings but I don’t know which wheelbase you own for reference. Thanks.

CSW 2.5
So about the same max torque as yours if you have the 8nm psu?

But the settings should basically be the same.
You just got some additional settings.

If you want, send screenshots of your settings and I'll write down my recommended adjustments via snipping tool into them

 

[Avenger2000]

CSW 2.5
So about the same max torque as yours if you have the 8nm psu?

But the settings should basically be the same.
You just got some additional settings.

If you want, send screenshots of your settings and I'll write down my recommended adjustments via snipping tool into them

Thank you. I own the GT DD Pro with the Podium Porsche wheel and normal CSL Pedals.

 

[Avenger2000]

CSW 2.5
So about the same max torque as yours if you have the 8nm psu?

But the settings should basically be the same.
You just got some additional settings.

If you want, send screenshots of your settings and I'll write down my recommended adjustments via snipping tool into them

When you get a chance, let me know if I uploaded the correct screen shots. I’m also trying to play F1 races with cars like the RSS 2023 Formula Hybrid if that makes any difference. Thanks for your help.

 

[RasmusP]

Can you also screenshot this?

Btw, you can press win+ctrl+s to activate the snipping tool. Hold down left mouse click and drag the area you want to screenshot.
Then click into the RD posting text window and press ctrl + v to paste the screenshot.


One first thing about your settings:
Reducing the angle from 900° down to 360° "compresses" the ffb. I don't really know why, but it has something to do with how the ffb works.

It's not fully linear but basically when going from 900° to 450°, you have to use 1/3 less gain!

Using this logic, you're running more than 100% ffb gain, which is probably clipping like hell.

Why are you using 360°? Only to get the "end stop" (hardware lock)?

I would strongly recommend to set the rotation to 900° both in the Fanatec software and in AC.
AC has the "real life" steering angle for all cars and calculates it to match with your real wheel.
To make this work, you simply have to set the rotation higher than what the virtual car is using.

So if the real car has 424° steering angle and you set the wheel and AC to 900°, you will have perfectly synced rotation up to 424°.
After that, the ffb will go "numb" and the virtual wheel stops rotating.
It's a bit lame when you hit that end, but you just turn the wheel back into the 424° range and the ffb will kick in to life again.


If you're using 360° while the car has 424° steering angle, AC will also sync the steering to 360° and you will "compress" the car's 424° into 360°, making it more twitchy than in reality.

You can do this, but it's not "realistic". And it screws with your ffb settings.
You don't see this "ffb compression" in the clipping meter. It's clipping between AC and the wheel output.

But if you absolutely need the hardware lock from the base at 360°, do this:
Set wheelbase and AC to 900°, then drive a lap.
60% gain works very well as a starting point for almost all cars. You won't get clipping while driving normally but hitting a sausage kerb or going through Eau Rouge will slightly clip in the ffb peaks.
Try to remember the strength in your hands.

Then go back to 360° and lower the gain until the ffb feels as "light" as it did with 900°.

I just did it the "engineer" way by using the track "skidpad 0.5" and the RSS Hybrid 2018. I sadly don't own anything newer..
Going on the outside cambered ring and checking when my wheel will start to oscillate and go crazy.
With 60% gain, 100% car gain and 100% wheelbase strength, it calms back down below 200 km/h but goes completely crazy from about 210 km/h+.

Then going down to 360° in AC and the wheelbase:
It starts going crazy at 165 km/h.
Reducing the per-car-gain to 75% makes it behave identical to 900° and 100% per-car-gain.

So my overall gain in CM is 60%.
Per-Car-Gain was 100%, Wheelbase 100%.
The gains are just multiplied to get the "final gain":
0.6 * 1.0 * 1.0 = 0.6

When having to use 75% per-car-gain, the equation changes to:
0.6 * 0.75 * 1.0 = 0.45

Your gain is currently set to 0.85 * 1.0 = 0.85, which is almost 2x the gain I'd be using.


Try to set your menu gain to 45% and see how it feels.

I'll draw into your screenshots in the meantime

 

[Avenger2000]

Can you also screenshot this?
View attachment 664378


Btw, you can press win+ctrl+s to activate the snipping tool. Hold down left mouse click and drag the area you want to screenshot.
Then click into the RD posting text window and press ctrl + v to paste the screenshot.


One first thing about your settings:
Reducing the angle from 900° down to 360° "compresses" the ffb. I don't really know why, but it has something to do with how the ffb works.

It's not fully linear but basically when going from 900° to 450°, you have to use 1/3 less gain!

Using this logic, you're running more than 100% ffb gain, which is probably clipping like hell.

Why are you using 360°? Only to get the "end stop" (hardware lock)?

I would strongly recommend to set the rotation to 900° both in the Fanatec software and in AC.
AC has the "real life" steering angle for all cars and calculates it to match with your real wheel.
To make this work, you simply have to set the rotation higher than what the virtual car is using.

So if the real car has 424° steering angle and you set the wheel and AC to 900°, you will have perfectly synced rotation up to 424°.
After that, the ffb will go "numb" and the virtual wheel stops rotating.
It's a bit lame when you hit that end, but you just turn the wheel back into the 424° range and the ffb will kick in to life again.


If you're using 360° while the car has 424° steering angle, AC will also sync the steering to 360° and you will "compress" the car's 424° into 360°, making it more twitchy than in reality.

You can do this, but it's not "realistic". And it screws with your ffb settings.
You don't see this "ffb compression" in the clipping meter. It's clipping between AC and the wheel output.

But if you absolutely need the hardware lock from the base at 360°, do this:
Set wheelbase and AC to 900°, then drive a lap.
60% gain works very well as a starting point for almost all cars. You won't get clipping while driving normally but hitting a sausage kerb or going through Eau Rouge will slightly clip in the ffb peaks.
Try to remember the strength in your hands.

Then go back to 360° and lower the gain until the ffb feels as "light" as it did with 900°.

I just did it the "engineer" way by using the track "skidpad 0.5" and the RSS Hybrid 2018. I sadly don't own anything newer..
Going on the outside cambered ring and checking when my wheel will start to oscillate and go crazy.
With 60% gain, 100% car gain and 100% wheelbase strength, it calms back down below 200 km/h but goes completely crazy from about 210 km/h+.

Then going down to 360° in AC and the wheelbase:
It starts going crazy at 165 km/h.
Reducing the per-car-gain to 75% makes it behave identical to 900° and 100% per-car-gain.

So my overall gain in CM is 60%.
Per-Car-Gain was 100%, Wheelbase 100%.
The gains are just multiplied to get the "final gain":
0.6 * 1.0 * 1.0 = 0.6

When having to use 75% per-car-gain, the equation changes to:
0.6 * 0.75 * 1.0 = 0.45

Your gain is currently set to 0.85 * 1.0 = 0.85, which is almost 2x the gain I'd be using.


Try to set your menu gain to 45% and see how it feels.

I'll draw into your screenshots in the meantime

Thanks for the snipping help. I'm attempting to race F1 cars right now so that's why I thought I should set it to 360 degrees in the fanatec driver and the game settings. Please mark up my images. Thank you so much for your help. I'm not very good in configuring ffb and especially racing games.

 

[Avenger2000]

Can you also screenshot this?
View attachment 664378


Btw, you can press win+ctrl+s to activate the snipping tool. Hold down left mouse click and drag the area you want to screenshot.
Then click into the RD posting text window and press ctrl + v to paste the screenshot.


One first thing about your settings:
Reducing the angle from 900° down to 360° "compresses" the ffb. I don't really know why, but it has something to do with how the ffb works.

It's not fully linear but basically when going from 900° to 450°, you have to use 1/3 less gain!

Using this logic, you're running more than 100% ffb gain, which is probably clipping like hell.

Why are you using 360°? Only to get the "end stop" (hardware lock)?

I would strongly recommend to set the rotation to 900° both in the Fanatec software and in AC.
AC has the "real life" steering angle for all cars and calculates it to match with your real wheel.
To make this work, you simply have to set the rotation higher than what the virtual car is using.

So if the real car has 424° steering angle and you set the wheel and AC to 900°, you will have perfectly synced rotation up to 424°.
After that, the ffb will go "numb" and the virtual wheel stops rotating.
It's a bit lame when you hit that end, but you just turn the wheel back into the 424° range and the ffb will kick in to life again.


If you're using 360° while the car has 424° steering angle, AC will also sync the steering to 360° and you will "compress" the car's 424° into 360°, making it more twitchy than in reality.

You can do this, but it's not "realistic". And it screws with your ffb settings.
You don't see this "ffb compression" in the clipping meter. It's clipping between AC and the wheel output.

But if you absolutely need the hardware lock from the base at 360°, do this:
Set wheelbase and AC to 900°, then drive a lap.
60% gain works very well as a starting point for almost all cars. You won't get clipping while driving normally but hitting a sausage kerb or going through Eau Rouge will slightly clip in the ffb peaks.
Try to remember the strength in your hands.

Then go back to 360° and lower the gain until the ffb feels as "light" as it did with 900°.

I just did it the "engineer" way by using the track "skidpad 0.5" and the RSS Hybrid 2018. I sadly don't own anything newer..
Going on the outside cambered ring and checking when my wheel will start to oscillate and go crazy.
With 60% gain, 100% car gain and 100% wheelbase strength, it calms back down below 200 km/h but goes completely crazy from about 210 km/h+.

Then going down to 360° in AC and the wheelbase:
It starts going crazy at 165 km/h.
Reducing the per-car-gain to 75% makes it behave identical to 900° and 100% per-car-gain.

So my overall gain in CM is 60%.
Per-Car-Gain was 100%, Wheelbase 100%.
The gains are just multiplied to get the "final gain":
0.6 * 1.0 * 1.0 = 0.6

When having to use 75% per-car-gain, the equation changes to:
0.6 * 0.75 * 1.0 = 0.45

Your gain is currently set to 0.85 * 1.0 = 0.85, which is almost 2x the gain I'd be using.


Try to set your menu gain to 45% and see how it feels.

I'll draw into your screenshots in the meantime

Let me know if you need anything else or if you want me to “snip” the other setting screens as well. Those earlier images were taken with a camera

 

[RasmusP]

Let me know if you need anything else or if you want me to “snip” the other setting screens as well. Those earlier images were taken with a camera

Sorry, I just didn't have time to draw into your settings. I thought you would test 45% gain while waiting

Here are the settings I'd change:

Activate the new gyro, I really like it. Calms down the wheel when it should but makes it very reactive when you start to lose the rear end. It's "realistic".
Then to get some "fake power steering", which makes smaller forces a bit more lively, put Range compression to 125% and activate the "assist".

Then I'd recommend to change the Degrees to 900° both in CM and in Fanatec. Then DON'T use only 45% gain though. Use 60% like I do.
I'm really wondering about the 50% deadzone for Throttle and Brake though. What's the reason for this?
I get it for the brake, so you can rest your foot slightly on it but for the throttle? And 50% is really a lot... You're only using HALF the pedal travel/range that way.

In the Fanatec settings, I would change to 900° ofc.
For the rest: looks all good. I would however use some "Natural Inertia". It gives the wheel some nice "chunky"/"beefy" feeling like a real car. My CSW 2.5 sadly doesn't have this setting. It would be the only reason for me to change to a DD wheel, so I really recommend to test using 20-30% of it.
Interpolation Filter and FEI are pretty harsh with these settings. I personally would use INT at 3-4 and FEI at 80%, but in theory you're getting more details with your current settings. I just like things a bit smoother.

FOR should always be 100%, never touch it!
SPR is not used by any game I know, so it doesn't matter at all.
DPR is only used for the "standing still resistance" in AC and ACC. 50% is fine, 100% is fine and 0% is fine too. It really doesn't matter for the driving.

 

[Avenger2000]

It simply makes the Gyro, Damper and Minimum Damper settings available. Otherwise they are greyed out.

The Kunos Gyro is a gyro effect for the front wheels. The faster they spin, the more dampened the steering gets. Makes the wheel a bit calmer on fast straights.
The issue though: If you're losing the rear end in a corner, the front wheels still grip and are pointing into the "trajectory" of the car.
Basically the front wheels will still be straight, but the car chassis and rear wheels will be pointing 30-45° towards the inside of the corner.

The Kunos Gyro still applies the gyro effect to 0° steering angle, which doesn't make sense.

In short: The Kunos Gyro applies the front wheel gyro effect to the chassis, instead of the front wheel direction.

The CSP gyro fixes this.
Feels quite differently, but is definitely more "real". And I like it better!

The Damper level is simply the standing still rubber effect strength.

And the Minimum Damper level should always be at 0!!! It slows down the wheel in general, which you don't want.
We Fanatec users use the DRI setting for this!

CSW 2.5
So about the same max torque as yours if you have the 8nm psu?

But the settings should basically be the same.
You just got some additional settings.

If you want, send screenshots of your settings and I'll write down my recommended adjustments via snipping tool into them

Sorry, I just didn't have time to draw into your settings. I thought you would test 45% gain while waiting

Here are the settings I'd change:
View attachment 664721

Activate the new gyro, I really like it. Calms down the wheel when it should but makes it very reactive when you start to lose the rear end. It's "realistic".
Then to get some "fake power steering", which makes smaller forces a bit more lively, put Range compression to 125% and activate the "assist".

View attachment 664722
Then I'd recommend to change the Degrees to 900° both in CM and in Fanatec. Then DON'T use only 45% gain though. Use 60% like I do.
I'm really wondering about the 50% deadzone for Throttle and Brake though. What's the reason for this?
I get it for the brake, so you can rest your foot slightly on it but for the throttle? And 50% is really a lot... You're only using HALF the pedal travel/range that way.

View attachment 664728
In the Fanatec settings, I would change to 900° ofc.
For the rest: looks all good. I would however use some "Natural Inertia". It gives the wheel some nice "chunky"/"beefy" feeling like a real car. My CSW 2.5 sadly doesn't have this setting. It would be the only reason for me to change to a DD wheel, so I really recommend to test using 20-30% of it.
Interpolation Filter and FEI are pretty harsh with these settings. I personally would use INT at 3-4 and FEI at 80%, but in theory you're getting more details with your current settings. I just like things a bit smoother.

FOR should always be 100%, never touch it!
SPR is not used by any game I know, so it doesn't matter at all.
DPR is only used for the "standing still resistance" in AC and ACC. 50% is fine, 100% is fine and 0% is fine too. It really doesn't matter for the driving.

Thank you so much I’ll try these! The throttle and brake settings were intentional. I was emulating some old games where the throttle and the brake are on the same axis but forgot to change it back. Basically for games like Sega Model 2‘s Daytona USA half the axis one way is for throttle and half the other way for brake, All newer games use their own axisfor each control.

By the way, I should set steering to 900 degrees even though I am mainly trying F1 cars? From my understanding the degree of movement of F1 steering wheels is at most 360 degrees, at least in a real F1 racing car.

 

[RasmusP]

Basically for games like Sega Model 2‘s Daytona USA half the axis one way is for throttle and half the other way for brake, All newer games use their own axisfor each control.

Ah, that makes sense!

By the way, I should set steering to 900 degrees even though I am mainly trying F1 cars? From my understanding the degree of movement of F1 steering wheels is at most 360 degrees, at least in a real F1 racing car

Yes, as I wrote in an earlier post in this thread, Assetto Corsa automatically scales your real wheel with the virtual car as long as you set your wheel and AC to more than the car has in reality.

You have to set the same degrees in AC and Fanatec though to sync the real and virtual wheel.

If you select a car with only 350 degrees, you will have a synced wheel for 350 degrees, same steering as in reality.
But you'll be able to turn the real wheel further, up to 900.
The ffb will go "numb" when passing 350 degrees and the virtual wheel on your monitor will stop turning.

You'll definitely notice when this is happening (it never happens for me apart from when crashing).
Simply turn the real wheel back into the 350 degrees range and the ffb will come alive again and the virtual wheel will start turning synchronised to your real wheel again.

So in theory it would be best to set AC and Fanatec to the maximum possible.
But 900 is the standard for simracing so I'd recommend keeping it at this value. Otherwise things like ffb gain, the kerb/road/slip/abs effects will be a bit off.
As I also wrot earlier:
The lower you set the degrees, the less gain you need for the same ffb strength. And if you go beyond 900, you'll need more gain!

So I always use 900. There are barely cars with more degrees.

 

[Avenger2000]

Ah, that makes sense!

Yes, as I wrote in an earlier post in this thread, Assetto Corsa automatically scales your real wheel with the virtual car as long as you set your wheel and AC to more than the car has in reality.

You have to set the same degrees in AC and Fanatec though to sync the real and virtual wheel.

If you select a car with only 350 degrees, you will have a synced wheel for 350 degrees, same steering as in reality.
But you'll be able to turn the real wheel further, up to 900.
The ffb will go "numb" when passing 350 degrees and the virtual wheel on your monitor will stop turning.

You'll definitely notice when this is happening (it never happens for me apart from when crashing).
Simply turn the real wheel back into the 350 degrees range and the ffb will come alive again and the virtual wheel will start turning synchronised to your real wheel again.

So in theory it would be best to set AC and Fanatec to the maximum possible.
But 900 is the standard for simracing so I'd recommend keeping it at this value. Otherwise things like ffb gain, the kerb/road/slip/abs effects will be a bit off.
As I also wrot earlier:
The lower you set the degrees, the less gain you need for the same ffb strength. And if you go beyond 900, you'll need more gain!

So I always use 900. There are barely cars with more degrees.

I see you didn’t mark up my screen with “gain” on it. Are my settings on it okay besides the “gain” setting? I practiced for a few minutes with the other settings. The wheel feels a little loose and easier to turn until you rev up the gears and get to a higher speed. Is that correct? I think in the other game I play, like GT7, there is a bit more tension in moving the wheel, even at lower speeds. If I want to add more tension for turning what settings would I adjust? Thanks for all your help.

Edit: I read earlier in the thread for the gain screen: “I personally use Kerbs at 5%, road at 10% and abs at 20%.”

 

[RasmusP]

I see you didn’t mark up my screen with “gain” on it. Are my settings on it okay besides the “gain” setting?

Yes, they are all fine. I only marked up what I would change

Just use 60% gain when using 900° and 45% if using 360°.

I practiced for a few minutes with the other settings. The wheel feels a little loose and easier to turn until you rev up the gears and get to a higher speed. Is that correct? I think in the other game I play, like GT7, there is a bit more tension in moving the wheel, even at lower speeds.

GT7 probably has the gain at 100% and is clipping in every faster turn.
It's a trade off with weaker wheels between immersion and clipping.
Do you have the 5 Nm or 8 Nm CSL DD?

If I want to add more tension for turning what settings would I adjust? Thanks for all your help.

I would use the "Range Compression" in the CSP settings.
It's normal in AC that there's a lot of "dynamic" between lower and higher forces.
AC simulates the real geometry etc but it doesn't simulate power steering.
If you ever drove a car without power steering, you probably know that they are super heavy when standing still, then become really soft in the center at medium speeds and then pretty strong when going faster.
I only ever drove a Smart and an 80's Volkswagen Bus without power steering. But both shared this behavior.

Range compression from csp simulates power steering.
You can set it even to 300%!

But turn down the gain to 50% then. It boosts all ffb a little bit, but mostly the lower forces.

Edit: I read earlier in the thread for the gain screen: “I personally use Kerbs at 5%, road at 10% and abs at 20%.”

Yeah I didn't mark them because it doesn't really matter. You don't have some of them at 100% or so, so it's fine.
Road is just vibrations all the time depending on the surface you're on.
Kerb gives basic vibrations when you touch a surface that's labeled "kerb surface" by the track creator.
Kerbs in AC are 3D though. So even with Kerbs at 0%, you'll feel the 3D Kerbs like in reality.
The kerb slider will vibrate additionally, hiding the details of the real geometry Kerbs.

But there are also "paint only" Kerbs that aren't 3D.
To know when you're driving across these, 1-5% Kerbs slider is helpful.
Eau Rouge, left apex kerb at the top of the hill is one of these painted Kerbs.

 

[Avenger2000]

It's a trade off with weaker wheels between immersion and clipping.
Do you have the 5 Nm or 8 Nm CSL DD?
I would use the "Range Compression" in the CSP settings.
It's normal in AC that there's a lot of "dynamic" between lower and higher forces.
AC simulates the real geometry etc but it doesn't simulate power steering.
If you ever drove a car without power steering, you probably know that they are super heavy when standing still, then become really soft in the center at medium speeds and then pretty strong when going faster.
I only ever drove a Smart and an 80's Volkswagen Bus without power steering. But both shared this behavior.

Range compression from csp simulates power steering.
You can set it even to 300%!

But turn down the gain to 50% then. It boosts all ffb a little bit, but mostly the lower forces.

I have the 8mm gt dd pro. So I should just increase the range compression a bit to get tension at lower speeds? And reduce the gain if needed? The issue is that I don’t know what it should feel like. I know how gt7 feels and it’s more tension. For Formula One cars I think they use some sort of power steering. Heck I don’t have any tension in my own car at home with power steering so I assume gt7 assumes no power steering. I just got used to the GT7 feel. Also is it me or are collisions crazy in the game? I just run into F1 cars in front of me and they fly out of the way, without a big fob burst either.

 

[RasmusP]

I have the 8mm gt dd pro. So I should just increase the range compression a bit to get tension at lower speeds? And reduce the gain if needed?

Yes, exactly. Range Compression work similar to an audio compressor. Making a quiet and then loud classical piece played by an orchestra pump like an electronic dance track, lol
If the wheel shakes like crazy, reduce the gain.
It's important to activate the "Range Compression Assist" checkbox right next to it. Some cars in AC try to mimic power steering. It's called "Steering Assist" in the setup menu in the pits.
The Range Compression Assist bypasses that and changes it into the CSP Range Compression instead.

You will lose some feel for the downforce if you use too high Range Compression %. With F1 cars, the steering gets a lot stronger when going faster. Range Compression will lower the dynamic and therefore you might not feel the grip level.

But honestly, when I let someone drive for the first time, I reduce the gain a lot and put Range Compression to the maximum. Making it feel more like a standard road car

The issue is that I don’t know what it should feel like.

Yeah I know the struggle.. It won't ever feel like reality anyway, so it only matters that:
1. You enjoy the feeling
2. You get all the information needed to drive well and fast

So 300% gain might make you enjoy the ffb a lot, but you won't feel the grip level at all.
20% gain will give you ALL details nicely presented but the ffb would be so weak, that you won't enjoy it anymore.

My settings try to give you the strongest ffb while still keeping all needed details.

I know how gt7 feels and it’s more tension. For Formula One cars I think they use some sort of power steering. Heck I don’t have any tension in my own car at home with power steering so I assume gt7 assumes no power steering. I just got used to the GT7 feel.

Honestly, GT7 isn't a true "Sim". It's awesome, but I would always say that AC is more "correct".
Your car at home has no "tension", because you're not trying to corner with over 2G at 200 km/h
If you'd try, you'd definitely get some tension haha.
I did some driver training with my little Skoda Fabia 3 (2018) which you can normally drive with your little finger.
But when driving over the "slap plate", which shoves your rear axle randomly to left or right by 50cm at 50 km/h, you get your wrists smacked if you don't know where to place your hands!

Does GT7 has a gain setting or anything? I guess it's clipping a lot, like you would set AC to 150%.

Also is it me or are collisions crazy in the game? I just run into F1 cars in front of me and they fly out of the way, without a big fob burst either.

Yep, collisions are a complete mess in AC. I have a few years of clubracing experience here at RD and the gentlemens-rule is to basically never touch each other.
You hit another car with 1 km/h difference and it will spin out without hope. I hate it...
But the rest of AC is so good, that you just get used to it.