Static (sim-lab) or motion rig (Prosimu T1000)

[Flyinjake]

Hi

I have a DIY rig build of some thick MDF, but not very rigid so it kind moves/wiggles a lot when driving So as a plan of stepping up my hobby, I want to go for a "pro" sim rig.

So first question, if I were to choose a static simrig like the ones from sim-lab, what do you recommend: the GT1 or the P1? I have read that the P1 is too robust for some people, which should take away some of the feeling of actually sitting in a real car. Next thing is that considering adding a motion solution to the sim-lab rigs later, might be totally impossible if I go for the P1 since it is too heavy, unless i add a Dbox solution which I dont have the money for. One thing is sure, I will buy a direct drive wheel, so maybe the P1 is the right rig for that type of wheel. Are there any obvious pros to the GT1 over the P1 (easier to setup the pedal plate with handles etc)? Is it easy to mount a button to any of these two rigs?

When upgrading my rig, a natural question for me would be: should I consider a motion rig over a static rig? That's when I started considering the Prosimu T1000 2 motion using Dyadic 040 after seeing some reviews, a solution that is within my budget, but is it good enough for a direct drive wheel over the sim-lab solutions? I am only considering this Prosimu over other motion rigs as it has a competitive price and it moves the entire rig, not just the seat. What I believe is tricky with this rig, where can you mount a button-box on the Prosimu, any suggestions?

I've seen some say that if you first tried a motion rig, you'll never want to go back to a static. I can imagine it is true, but is the Prosimu T1000 with Dyadic setup the way to go over the Sim-lab rigs?

 

[Beef36]

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[Jeremy Ford]

I have the GT1, it's great. The P1 is more of a preference of the user. You basically get the same seating position in both. The P1 allows you to quickly adjust the distance of the pedals, but frankly you set this once and leave it. The beefier base of the P1 makes no difference, the GT1 is completely stable. Really pick the one you like the look of as they'll operate and feel the same in use.

Personally you're better considering a DD wheel and high-end pedals before motion if you're working within a budget. Motion is great but I'd put that last on my list. I have the NLV3, it's great but I'd sacrifice that for a good wheel and pedals any day. In place of motion, transducers are an excellent alternative providing a convincing level feedback to your body.

 

[anton_Chez]

Would have to agree with what's being stated above. I have looked at the Prosimu stuff and I am not convinced that you should be buying a chassis mover (as opposed to a seat mover) on a budget. You're way better off with a seat mover within your budget as a chassis mover is already at a disadvantage in regards to weight being moved and also the speed of the actuators. I think you really need to invest heavily into a chassis mover to make it worth your while. You need a great rig to begin with and the SimLabs (or equivalent) 80/20 rigs are a great starting point. This will provide you with everything you need to start building a quality cockpit. It handles direct drive wheels and high end pedals easily with great adjustment options. You have a great ability to add hardware and also profile to add further mounting solutions.

From there, you can start to work out what's more important to you. Since you have a great base now, you may even feel that motion is not something you need, and the static chassis perhaps with some tactile additions might be the way to go. I moved onto motion only after I had a decent kit (basically all high end Fanatec gear, so mid tier overall). But since moving to 80/20, I wish I started on it from the beginning. I've been through 3 cockpits to date and I don't see me moving away from this one.

If you're considering motion, your budget should be decent. Get a good chassis and at least high end Fanatec or TM gear before you consider motion, in my opinion. Then, because you have made the correct choice in committing to a high quality and versatile cockpit, you can then add a seat mover OR a chassis mover to it, with no dismantling, selling, re-buying etc. You might have to wait for motion a little more, but nothing is like having a great chassis to drive in.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

How do seat movers work with VR?

 

[Jeremy Ford]

How do seat movers work with VR?

If you're imagining you're getting bounced around so much that the VR view is all over the place, it's not like that at all as you naturally keep your arms and head centred with the steering wheel. In addition the NL motion software has a VR option to compensate for the seat movement, but it's not needed.

 

[Mascot]

If you're imagining you're getting bounced around so much that the VR view is all over the place, it's not like that at all as you naturally keep your arms and head centred with the steering wheel. In addition the NL motion software has a VR option to compensate for the seat movement, but it's not needed.

Yep, I've not even tried the VR compensation software with the NLV3 because I've never needed it, even with the settings cranked up. VR and motion is awesome, by the way. The missing piece in the jigsaw.

In answer to the OP, a solid 80/20 rig will be the last cockpit you ever need to buy, because you can attach anything you'll ever need to it, including motion platforms.

 

[Flyinjake]

I have the GT1, it's great. The P1 is more of a preference of the user. You basically get the same seating position in both. The P1 allows you to quickly adjust the distance of the pedals, but frankly you set this once and leave it. The beefier base of the P1 makes no difference, the GT1 is completely stable. Really pick the one you like the look of as they'll operate and feel the same in use.

Personally you're better considering a DD wheel and high-end pedals before motion if you're working within a budget. Motion is great but I'd put that last on my list. I have the NLV3, it's great but I'd sacrifice that for a good wheel and pedals any day. In place of motion, transducers are an excellent alternative providing a convincing level feedback to your body.

Judging from the pictures of the P1 and the GT1 it seems the base where you attach your pedal eg. the moveable pedalplate with Heusinkveld Pro, is at different heights. Is that just an illusion or real and how does it affect the position of the driver? I still believe I will choose the P1 if that is going to provide me with easier adjustments. Can you get these small handles to quick-adjust the height, angle and length position of the wheel plate and the 80/20 it is mounted to? Where can you buy them if not at Sim-lab.eu?

 

[Jeremy Ford]

Judging from the pictures of the P1 and the GT1 it seems the base where you attach your pedal eg. the moveable pedalplate with Heusinkveld Pro, is at different heights. Is that just an illusion or real and how does it affect the position of the driver? I still believe I will choose the P1 if that is going to provide me with easier adjustments. Can you get these small handles to quick-adjust the height, angle and length position of the wheel plate and the 80/20 it is mounted to? Where can you buy them if not at Sim-lab.eu?

The GT1 does allow you to adjust the pedal height higher than than P1, but it's sort of a marginal advantage as the P1 pedal height is just fine. Maybe useful for achieving an F1 seated position! However fixing the NLV3 motion to my GT1 was easier than the other fellas with the P1, as the motion platform raises the seat and I was able to raise the pedals inline to compensate. The guys on this forum with the P1 and the NLV3 had a trickier task of using more exotic solutions to lower seat to maintain the level with the pedals.

Those adjustment handles are a standard part and easily found on ebay (M8 clamping lever), you can use them instead of regular M8 bolts. They are just handles with M8 bolts embedded.