Steering & Pedal Sensitivity

[Lewis Owen]

Not seen anything mentioned on this subject.
What % do the rest of you have for these settings in GTR Evo?
I've currently got 40% on each, but I'm new to the game and am yet to find any settings I'm happy with.
Using a G25 if it helps.

Another quick question, I see people mentioning their degrees of rotation on their wheel and also steering lock, but I can't find where to adjust steering lock, any help?

Thanks

 

[Mike Simian]

In GTR1 I had a crappy wheel so lets not talk about it, would have been better to play with my eyes closed and just smash the keyboard with my face.

GTR2 (G25) I had Wheel sensitivity at around 20 percent, then offset that with higher ingame lock and wheel rotation. Funky I know but it just felt right, and I played around with the settings alot, probably too much.

But in Evo I have changed to 50% sensitivity and reduced the in game lock, but my wheel rotation has increased, again after alot of tweaking it just feels right.

Brake and accelerator I always have on quite low sensitivity, the reason is I want more definition on the throttle earlier rather than later and be more precise with the throttle mid turn.

I hate talking about wheel setups, the first thing I do after is change them again lol and it takes forever to realise they were right before and leave them as they were. (not always true sometimes I find something new I like, will see what happens this time)

 

[Nick Price]

i run a g25 a full rotation, 50% sensitivity in game and generally run max wheel lock on all my setups - being able to get those wheels right over to one side can get me out of some scrapes in the fwd cars hehe

throttle and brake are generally left at 50%, and clutch at 90% so the bite is low for quicker reaction at the start/changing gear.

 

[Eric. K]

Call me dumb, but can someone clearly explain me the difference between changing the wheels profile from let's say 200 degree to 720 vs just reducing or increasing the in game steering lock. Couldnt we get the same results either way?

 

[Stuart Thomson]

You can get the same ratio, certainly.

720° rotation and 24° lock = 200° and 6.7° lock

Generally, it's the ratio that you adjust, how much steering wheel turn equals how much front wheels turn.

However, there's also the sensitivity issue, where, too high a frontwheels turn for a small steering wheel input can make the car seem a bit twitchy. Conversely, if you set the in game lock too low, you might not make some of the tighter corners.

Personally - I like a relatively high lock (28°), but with the G25 on full 900° rotation. It means I can make all the tighter corners, but the steering ratio (steering input to front wheels turn) is not so high as to make it twitchy. The downside to doing it that way is that I have to sometimes make large inputs to get round some of the tighter corners.

It's always a tradeoff, but that's the one I'm happiest with.

 

[Simon Trendell]

With Stuarts setup you will work more and when you spin you'll find yourself super humanly going from lock to lock.
However even for the Macau hairpin you won't be turning the wheel more than 180 degrees

 

[Stuart Thomson]

Yup - That's my tradeoff :good:

I just find that, set up that way, I spin less so there's less recovery required.

I can see both sides of the equation tbh, this is the side I feel more comfortable on, but fully appreciate that for some it will be the opposite.

 

[Chris Hendrich]

So noone knows how much you can turn a f1 or f3000 wheel in real life? I doubt it is 900 degrees.

 

[Lee Downham]

Best way I found of seeing for yourself how each in-game sensitivity option works (ie, throttle, brake. clutch), is to put your foot on the relevant pedal and hold it partially depressed and try not to move it whilst you adjust the sensitivity slider and see what happens.
Test a few things and apply a bit of logic about what each adjustment is doing whilst you drive and you might help smooth out some lead or light footed tendencies :wink2:

BTW: As best as I understand it, 50% in game steering sensitivity makes steering inputs linear, ie. as you turn the wheel, it turns the front wheels by a consistent steering ratio/angle (eg 1 degree of turn on the front wheels for each 16 degrees at the steering wheel) ... if you increase or decrease this setting, you will amplify and desensitise different areas of your wheel inputs and so may find you are getting something like a 24:1 steering ratio at say the centre of rotation, but as you turn it further this may constantly reduce to a 12:1 ratio (or vice verca, and figures only there as example).
Sounds like it might help in something like Stuart's scenario described above, but it will also make it harder to be accurate IMO, as you are driving with constantly changing steering ratios.
For this reason (I beleive) it is usually recommended to keep your steering ratio at 50% :wink2:

Hope that helps and makes sense :moneymouth:

 

[Neil Gault]

i knew i had this doc somewhere but i had to search through an old backup to find it, it is an extract from a doc written by Andy Gorton

Throttle
Before you can decide what you like in a GTR car setup it�s important to get your controller settings optimised for the game.
Changing controller settings aren�t a quick fix that are going to gain you a significant amount of time. All they will do is help fine tune the controls for your own preferences and controller.

It�s commonly accepted that a linear pedal response is the best option giving the best modulation and the most realistic responses. It means that the throttle input should increase at the same rate between 0-100% pedal travel. In GTR linear travel is theoretically at 50% sensitivity.

Luis Branco pointed out that the car will be far easier to drive with a 0% pedal sensitivity compared to the default 50% sensitivity however. This provides a slower response at first and then an accelerated response later in the throttle movement.

If a linear response is the best option normally then why isn�t 50% sensitivity always the best option in GTR? It�s down to your perception of the amount of pedal movement you have available. What feels like a gentle brush of the accelerator pedal could result in an unexpected surge of power. In powerful GT cars such as the Ferrari 550 Maranello this can be a real problem. Reducing pedal sensitivity will help make throttle control easier.

The first thing to do is to test your own pedals. Open the Controller screen within GTR and set pedal sensitivity to 50%. Try moving the accelerator pedal until you reach 50% of the travel on the blue bar and note how far you have to push it to reach that point. Now close your eyes and try the same thing again. Move the pedal to where you imagine you should be applying 50% throttle input and look at how far the blue bar has moved.

Try this several times until you get a consistent idea of where you expect this to happen. For my Logitech Red MOMO Force pedals this �crossover� point happens earlier than I�d expect: The blue bar shows a value of 65-70% approx when I think I�m only pressing the accelerator at 50%. This means that I�m actually getting 65-70% power applied when I expected 50% power!

Press the accelerator pedal to your �crossover� point again and hold it at that point. Whilst holding the throttle input steady reduce the sensitivity slider from 50% until the blue bar is equal to or very slightly higher than 50% (Shown by the centre of the steering axis on the bar above). This will give you more pedal travel for modulation and make the car easier to drive. For Logitech Red MOMO Force pedals a sensitivity figure somewhere between 0% and 30% seems to work fairly well for the throttle. If the bar is 50% or below when you reach your �crossover� point leave sensitivity at 50%.

If you�ve become used to a higher sensitivity level it will take a while to adapt to the changed pedal feel. �By using 0% sensitivity, you'll get the feeling that you can press the pedals more without the same in game fast reaction. This can tempt you to press the pedals more than it's needed, as initially it seems the car is delivering less power.� Luis Branco

Going for too low a sensitivity figure will create a spike in throttle input higher up the pedal travel however. Although it won�t spin you it may wear the tyres out faster so try a slightly higher value first (15-30% sensitivity.) before going as low as 0%. A higher level of sensitivity will give you more precise control but it won�t be as easy to adjust your low speed throttle input compared to a lower sensitivity figure. As a general rule if you have higher quality pedals (BRD Speed 7, Ecci, Frex etc) then you should probably be able to use a slightly higher sensitivity compared to cheaper alternatives.

Brake
Changing Brake sensitivity will have a similar effect to on the throttle axis.
0% sensitivity will give you a non-linear response where the brakes lock up later, 50% sensitivity will give you a linear response and 100% sensitivity will give you a non-linear response where the brakes lock up sooner.

A lower brake sensitivity will be slightly better for trail braking but overall a linear 50% sensitivity provides the best control throughout the braking zone.

Steering
You should leave the steering axis at the default linear 50%.
Speed sensitive steering will slow the steering down at higher speeds making the car feel less twitchy. This allows for the limited amount of lock a typical computer steering wheel has. By default this is at 10% but a lot of people like to disable this option.

Altering the Setup Once you�ve got an idea of what the default setup feels like it�s time to start changing it! I�ll first apply my base settings on top of the �Rennen� setup.
Steering (For a MOMO Force start with 13.5deg. Other wheels will vary from this)
Anti-Roll bar (initial settings of 120N/mm front and 40N/mm rear)
Differential (initial settings of 50% Drive Side Locking, 40% Coast Side Locking, preload of 3)
Toe-In/Out (initial settings Front �0.50deg, Rear 0.10)
Tyre Compound (Soft Front/ Medium Rear)
Cold Tyre Pressure (initial settings of 140kPa for all tyres)
Camber (-3.0 degrees front, -2.0 degrees rear)
Springs (minimum strength on all wheels)
Dampers (reduce all damper settings to minimum setting 1)
Packers: If there are any packers remove them
Ride Height (lowest possible settings front and rear)
I�ll leave wings and caster unchanged to start with.
The advantage of having base settings to begin with is that you will always have at least some of the same initial handling characteristics no matter what track or car you�re driving. These settings aren�t set in stone and once you�ve found your own favoured settings use them instead.

 

[Dan Coldrick]

After reading Neil's post I think I might change my pedal sensitivity, I feel I almost always spin the wheels when coming out of corners even when half (my half after reading the above post) throttle, what do you guys (mainly the Aliens) have your throttle sensitivity too?