T300RS mid FFB strength (detail like bumps etc) not felt much

[Alex72]

Hi guys,

Going from my old DFGT to T300RS i thought for sure everything would be better. More strength, more autocenter power, more FFB around center and more powerful detail overall, but so far i found that all is true except when it comes to mid forces. With the DFGT my hands/arms were shaking from smaller bumps/dips in the tarmac and i had to hold on to the wheel going full speed down a bumpy straight, but with T300 the mid level forces are just felt like little "bzzzt" and not even moving my arms.

Is this the same for everyone? Am i setting it up wrongly maybe missing something? I tested for example AMS Hockenheim 1977 and the old school formulas (60's), and on the straights i can take my hands from the steering wheel and have a zip of coffee because the wheel isnt moving at all.

In T300RS control panel i have it at 90% overall power, and i have Constant at 100% and Periodic at 100%. The rest is 0% like spring and dampening. In AMS i have 360hz FFB (tested the others too) and around 50-70 strength with 40-60 minimum force. Grip FFB force is really strong. Autocentering after slides is really strong so FFB is strong but details are weak compared to DFGT and of course watching DD wheels and how they move peoples arms during bumps. You would think T300 who is somewhere in the middle would throw your arms a little bit at least.

Any ideas? Faulty wheel maybe? Cheers.

 

[DayGlow]

From what I've read you can turn up spring and damping as most modern sims control them as well and to get all effects they need to be on.

 

[Alex72]

From what I've read you can turn up spring and damping as most modern sims control them as well and to get all effects they need to be on.

Will check that. Thanks.

 

[aKy0001]

I would also always turn the ffb strength in driver to 100%. You can still lower it in the sim directly (tjo avoid clipping), but it gives you a greater overall dynamic range for ffb effects.
Fan should be in always on mode, to keep the motor cool enough though.

 

[Alex72]

I would also always turn the ffb strength in driver to 100%. You can still lower it in the sim directly (tjo avoid clipping), but it gives you a greater overall dynamic range for ffb effects.
Fan should be in always on mode, to keep the motor cool enough though.

Yeah i wanted to do that but i heard people saying they had their motor break from 100% so ive been a bit afraid of that.

 

[aKy0001]

Greatest weakness of the T300 is not the motor but the integrated psu in my opinion. It is quite cheap in components and it was also not a wise decision to place it inside the wheelbase, as it generates additional heat (and blows that heat towards the motor, which is why the ffb often fades).

Fan in "always on" mode helps a bit, but there is no real airflow inside the housing, it more "circulates" inside the base.
BTT: Setting 100% in drive doesn't mean you should turn it up heavy in the sim also, so the motor still doesn't need to deal with super high forces, it's just that you have more range in effects available.

Even though it has some problems (simply caused by design) I still love the wheel, as it is highly and easily modifiable to fix that issue. As long as it is new and you're still having your warranty you should always contact thrustmaster in case sth. breaks.
But if you don't care about warranty and like to tinker around, I can recommend to replace the psu with an external, better quality one and install an on/off switch, so you don't need to unplug it everytime it is not in use.
Place some extra fans on the wheelbase to increase airflow. I did this to mine, 1 fan right to blow fresh air into the wheelbase and one left, soaking the warmed air out. Then you're also able to crank up the ffb (still try to avoid clipping in sim!) without problems.
Works for me, almost 2 years now. No other wheel needed, except a DD sometime.

Ok, that wasn't really part of the topic now, but I hope it helps anyway.

 

[Fat-Alfie]

40-60% minimum force? Really? You know that will reduce your dynamic range to around half what it should be? Unless I misunderstood your post

 

[aKy0001]

Oh wow, completely overlooked that o_O Yes thats waaay to high. On T300 you can set minimum force to 0.

 

[Alex72]

Oh wow, completely overlooked that o_O Yes thats waaay to high. On T300 you can set minimum force to 0.

I want more forces to hit around the center. Thats why i do that. On the DFGT it really helped removing some dead FFB around center and to add more detail when going down bumpy straights.

I find it pretty boring to go down bumpy straights with the T300RS and the wheel is completely still. Real race cars react quite wildly and throw the arms left to right. Like here (should be at the correct time i hope): 0:57 for example. These arent even that shaky, but still.

That shaking happens on DFGT and DD wheels, but i cant get it on T300RS which baffled me. I will test with 0% minimum force and 100% overall. Cheers guys.

 

[aKy0001]

thing is, it's not about "fighting" the ffb, but "feeling" what the car is doing, so you can react properly. Forces should be stronger when going through curves, yes, but on straights it's not that strong.