Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[Mr Latte]

Yes just like that.

 

[EsxPaul]

Like this?

View attachment 425113

Metal epoxy . It goes off hard enough that you can angle grind it and worth a try for not many dollars.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

Metal epoxy . It goes off hard enough that you can angle grind it and worth a try for not many dollars.

Yeah. I've used JB weld to put the oil pan back together on my racecar, before (amoungst other things). I dropped two wheels off the exit of a corner with a big drop off in qualifying. The oil pan scraped on the gators, and cracked. I smeared an entire layer over the spiderweb of cracks (a cast aluminum pan). I managed to complete the 50 minute race 3 hours later...with all the oil still inside.

If I got that route, I'll probably also add some reinforcement (aluminum plate or something).

 

[elcid4300]

Possible for someone to recommend a small/thin unit to add a bit of vibration when I am at idle/pitting to my osw wheelbase? It just feels unnatural for the wheel to feel dead with the other shakers pumping along on the seat and pedals. Just looking for something smallish as I don't have much room there. Already have some extra small amps.

Thank you very much

 

[ScreaminBejesus]

I just came across these damping feet and wondered if anyone has tried them. If I expand my rig to include transducers for the pedals, I’m thinking this might be an effective way to isolate the pedal plate from the rig.

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[boern69]

I offer a damping set since the present month

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[blekenbleu]

It just feels unnatural for the wheel to feel dead with the other shakers pumping along on the seat and pedals.

Generally, wheel bases want rigid mounting, to avoid loss of detail from reaction. If a wheel base can be appreciably stimulated by another actuator, it is IMO not properly anchored. Most expedient would seem to be adding engine vibration signal to wheel base FFB, ideally only at low speed to avoid confounding feedback when driving gets busy. Alternatively, some wheel rims include haptic transducers, e.g. Fanatec ClubSport BMW GT2.

 

[elcid4300]

Generally, wheel bases want rigid mounting, to avoid loss of detail from reaction. If a wheel base can be appreciably stimulated by another actuator, it is IMO not properly anchored. Most expedient would seem to be adding engine vibration signal to wheel base FFB, ideally only at low speed to avoid confounding feedback when driving gets busy. Alternatively, some wheel rims include haptic transducers, e.g. Fanatec ClubSport BMW GT2.

I completely agree, that's why I asked for a recommendation on a very small exciter/shaker . My OSW is bolted to my custom tubframe F1 chassis and does not move or flex.

 

[ScreaminBejesus]

I offer a damping set since the present month
...

That looks interesting. What are the dimensions? I found reference to the bolt size and threading, but not to the diameter and height. And do they have threaded inserts on the bottom? I’m looking for something to fix between two layers, not just support from below.

 

[Alvaro de la Orden]

Besides 3M VHB tape, what other methods have you used to attach the small Dayton Thursters? I was thinking square cuts of aluminium sheet attached to the seat, then double side tape between the aluminium and the clear ring of the exciter.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

Besides 3M VHB tape, what other methods have you used to attach the small Dayton Thursters? I was thinking square cuts of aluminium sheet attached to the seat, then double side tape between the aluminium and the clear ring of the exciter.

I'm not sure what the aluminum squares would get you? The exciters already come with 3M VHB on the clear ring. I'm currently using 3M dual lock for attaching the exciters to my seat. It makes them easy to pop off and reposition as I experiement with different locations. I posted links to the stuff and some pictures back 10-20 pages or so.

 

[Alvaro de la Orden]

I'm not sure what the aluminum squares would get you? The exciters already come with 3M VHB on the clear ring. I'm currently using 3M dual lock for attaching the exciters to my seat. It makes them easy to pop off and reposition as I experiement with different locations. I posted links to the stuff and some pictures back 10-20 pages or so.

The square would provide more sticky surface, and not one which vibrates, like the clear ring. I had 6 exciter attached to the mostly curvy areas of my OMP baquet and one by one, they all fell off after several weeks of usage. Now I´m moving some to my gaming chair for flight sims, and want to glue them to the base, underneath the seat.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

The square would provide more sticky surface, and not one which vibrates, like the clear ring. I had 6 exciter attached to the mostly curvy areas of my OMP baquet and one by one, they all fell off after several weeks of usage. Now I´m moving some to my gaming chair for flight sims, and want to glue them to the base, underneath the seat.

Ah....I see now. My sparco has mostly flat surfaces, so I haven't had that issue. But, yeah....I'd do something similar to what you're suggesting, if that were my problem.

 

[Mr Latte]

S32 has arrived
Toys for Christmas, the learning curve continues....

These combined with the X-Touch Midi Interface are awesome in the options and potential they will bring for my audio and tactile. Spent the last couple of days getting acquainted with how to use it all.

Meanwhile a new build for the rigs entire (base frame section) is almost done


Now upgraded with a new design, wider/stronger @ 55"x 68" using triple layers with over 40 meters of steel/chrome tubing in this new base section alone.

The improvements will enable better positioning of the 4x corner placed subwoofers and dual soundbars which get installed into the floor section. These are now being placed to the outer sides within the frame rather than under the central seat region for better audio and more structural integrity of the whole base frame.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

My first instinct is "nice wallpaper!"

My second response is, "someday you're going to show us more than just fractional teasers that make it impossible to tell where you're going with this." And you know...maybe....some....color (of the rig....not just boxes on the floor)!

 

[Mr Latte]

With buying these audio hardware upgrades this past 6 months, it then leaves limited funds for other materials, being built in a room with limited space, and as it's a custom build, unfortunately, it's just going to take time.


To answer your question....
"where am I going with this?"

Things are being learned but still improved, both in hardware and with the build itself. Just as the first frame build highlighted some things I wasn't entirely happy with and a lot of fussing is going into this build. I would rather delay things making improvements than end up with something I then later groaned over or wished I had done.

It will set a benchmark in certain ways but primarily its target goals with tactile/audio immersion possibilities go well beyond anything anyone with common sense would not even consider. Yet its been fuelled by experimentation and creativity that has led to the accumulation of over £12K worth of audio hardware/cabling going into what is meant to be a unique rig build. In fairness, much of the hardware as shared on these forums or GT Planet from years ago was bought over several years and sometimes often bargain ebay buys as well as also some kindness from a couple of individuals.

It's not another 8020 rectangle with a few transducers bolted to it and I can copy something someone else has done as it brings its own challenges. Even the installation and isolation being used with the level of tactile the rig accommodates will be custom made and not like the normal done thing. Some of that was teased in the past. This when put together needs tested and may also require some changes based on how well the original plans and previously done test build ideas work out when combined onto the new build.

It's all a bit of an adventure, one that is slowly coming together but even a year ago I would never of thought it would include the additional hardware which was added this year.

 

[ScreaminBejesus]

Besides 3M VHB tape, what other methods have you used to attach the small Dayton Thursters?

The 3M VHB that comes on the Dayton Audio DAEXEP32-4 exciters is pretty good, but I have found that it will eventually weaken under use and fail in summer heat. When this happens, I have replaced it with 3M Low Profile Dual Lock. If you can find this in 2” disks, these are ideal. Make sure the two disks are first fitted tightly together, then adhere them to the exciter, then to the seat. Don’t confuse the low profile dual lock (SJ4570) with the regular (SJ3560). The latter may be good for heavy loads, but is too thick and doesn’t stand up to constant vibration.

 

[Tom_Hampton]

With buying these audio hardware upgrades this past 6 months, it then leaves limited funds for other materials, being built in a room with limited space, and as it's a custom build, unfortunately, it's just going to take time.

To answer your question....
"where am I going with this?"

I get it, certainly when it comes to money and time. I have entirely too many large scale things going on these days. I can certainly appreciate the intricacy of building out of your chosen materials, and the complexity of the tactile and audio environment that you've set yourself on the path for.

I was only noting that you seem to have a penchant for taking artistic photos from odd perspectives/angles/close-ups that make it difficult to see the forest for the leaves.

- Its just enough chrome pipe and joints to get a sense of scale/scope, but not form.
- Its a box chock full of BK-Concert/LFE...but, no outline for what they will do.

- We don't see a picture of the seat, we see a fraction of one surface of the seat.
- We don't see a build partially made...we see 3 joints and 5 pieces of pipe.
- We don't see design sketches outlining the plan and progress photos showing how its coming along. We see a massive steel jungle-gym.

Btw these are NOT complaints. I actually enjoy trying to figure out where you're going with it. Then trying to make sense out of the random 160 square inches of which you've shared a photo with us through this and other threads, and:

1. What it is.
2. Where it goes in the larger rig design.
3. What IS the larger rig design.

I like the puzzle that your build has become. I'm sure the final reveal will live up to its billing.

I think the photo above is the single largest image I recall seeing shared. And I still can't really tell what it is. You could have told me it was a jungle-gym for your grandson.

 

[boern69]

That looks interesting. What are the dimensions? I found reference to the bolt size and threading, but not to the diameter and height. And do they have threaded inserts on the bottom? I’m looking for something to fix between two layers, not just support from below.

yap ur right

it is about 30mm in dia
and 50mm in height (no screw)

u can fix them on the floor
but they are loose in 3 parts

 

[KnIgHtCoM]

The 3M VHB that comes on the Dayton Audio DAEXEP32-4 exciters is pretty good, but I have found that it will eventually weaken under use and fail in summer heat. When this happens, I have replaced it with 3M Low Profile Dual Lock. If you can find this in 2” disks, these are ideal. Make sure the two disks are first fitted tightly together, then adhere them to the exciter, then to the seat. Don’t confuse the low profile dual lock (SJ4570) with the regular (SJ3560). The latter may be good for heavy loads, but is too thick and doesn’t stand up to constant vibration.

@ScreaminBejesus do you have a link to the disc dual lock? One of my pucks recently fell off too. I was able to stick it back on, but notice that specific exciter bottoms out easier knocks on the shell of my seat.