Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[Deleted member 197115]

Does anyone know of a better alternative than the Behringer NX1000D? Worst technical support I have ever seen, cannot talk live to anyone, cannot get any signal out of the A channel from the 3 amps that I bought. Something is not normal... was working fine with the BK amps.

I tried all the modes... like Stereo, bridge, BiModeA, BiModeB, etc... even updated the firmware.

Thoughts?

I am quite happy with Crown XLS1002 Pro, it doesn't have PEQ DSP though, otherwise solid performance and measurements, temperature controlled fan as well, so it's completely quiet 99.99% of time.

 

[anton_Chez]

Is it only the A channel? What about the B channel? What unit are you trying to run from it? Having tried 3 amps there is zero chance that all 3 amps are exactly faulty in the same way. There must be something else that's happening.

 

[Sullivan59]

thank you for all his information on the topic

 

[max211]

I have the GT1 EVO Sim Racing Cockpit:
how many and which types of buttkicker do you recommend to install to get the best result?

 

[anton_Chez]

I have the GT1 EVO Sim Racing Cockpit:
how many and which types of buttkicker do you recommend to install to get the best result?

The cockpit should not matter. But you have an alu profile chassis so you'll have plenty of mounting options. I would definitely look at direct seat mounting for a start before going off the deep end with large expensive power hungry units. You'll know if tactile is for you or not with a few little units and some decent effects, most of this has been discussed in great length throughout the latter part of the tactile threads and the effects from user Sierses can be found on the Simhub and Good Vibes Discord servers.

 

[Jean-Paul Lanaux]

I am transitioning from an old house with a small sim space to a larger house with a dedicated sim room. My sim has not evolved since I went down the SFX100 rabbit hole (about 3-4 years ago).

I feel really excited right now ... I kind of feel like an artist staring at a blank canvas. I now have a brand new EMPTY dedicated sim room. I have three separate electrical circuits (220-40amp, 120-20 amp, 120-20amp - and another 120-20 amp that powers the rest of the wall outlets). So I'm starting out with plenty of juice. I have been looking at pics of rigs and dreaming exactly what I want to create. Oh ... and I have my blank canvas. I have 6 foot x 6 foot yoga mats over a wooden floor topped with 1/2" thick mdf, covered with carpeting ... waiting for the most perfect sim rig.

Now since I plan to rebuild my sim ... and ... I have no size constraints ... and I have a reasonable budget to throw at it. I want some of this tactile, butt kicker, fancy amp stuff. All of this just so I can purchase the right size server rack. To develop my understanding how big a server rack I need, investigations into how much equipment I need to plan for. I had some time to investigate this thread over a few weeks. I started at the end and started reading backwards. After several pages ... Hmmm ... maybe I need to start at the beginning.

I made it through 6006 posts ... 301 pages ... lots of info, drama, confusion, repeating, whining ... but it was worth it. I now have confidence that I can make good hardware purchases. I can plan out my rack, and develop my budget (tactile). Unfortunately, the only way I made it through 6000 posts was to briefly read and focus mostly on the hardware side of things.

Unfortunately I know that I will need to go back through this thread when I need to tune the system. I'm not looking forward to that. I'll be hanging out here with you guys during the build and tuning.

So thanks for everybody who supplied the info. Thanks to all of the contributors. And a big thanks to Mr Latte. There is a lot of passion in sim racing. There is also a lot of ridiculousness here also. I think I am both.

 

[anton_Chez]

Nice work! I would suggest that a lot of the old stuff is indeed that, old. We have a pretty refined way of doing things now and there have been many users who have used various ends of the spectrum with their builds to great success and satisfaction. As far as the effects go, I would not worry too much about those. There are a number of them shared on the Simhub Discord server and they should serve you well no matter the route you take.

 

[alexish657]

Buttkicker Plus VS Buttkicker Pro VS FOUR Dayton BST-1

Hey there, I've got a Buttkicker Pro arriving soon after testing the Plus version and finally returning it because "why not go for the biggest instead". As you can see in picture, I got a pretty big and solid aluminium cockpit. I was running the smaller BK Plus before and I overrun it one time which trigger the overheating protection, but it was clipping a lot. That's why I changed for the Pro, just to have the peace of mind. Recently and obviously after I made my purchase for the Buttkicker, I find a Reddit post talking about the Bk Pro easily overheating too and I start being worried a little bit. Is that a commun issue for the Bk Pro? Is anyone here have problem with the Pro?

Also, after some research, it seems that the cheaper option of the BST-1 can offer a better experience than the BK Pro in the end when using multiple one. The thing is for the same price of ONE BK Pro, I can have a FOUR BST-1 on each corner of my rig.

So, second question, would you prefer the single, ONE more powerful Buttkicker Pro mounted under the seat on the rig or the FOUR BST-1 mounted on each corner ? Which will give the best result on my beefy cockpit ? I was thinking that even that I only got one transducer with the BK, because of the power, it will be better, but now I don't know anymore.

Thanks

Some detail about my setup.

-I can't mount the Transducer to my seat because of the lack of support, it will be on a massive aluminium cockpit.
-I'm planning mouting it under the seat aluminium extrusion instead (I upload the two option that I'm looking at presently)
- Option 1 is made from 4040 extrusion simply connected as I said to the other 4040 which the seat is bolted on
-option 2 is made from 2020 extrusion (because I ordered 2020 by mistake... will probably return it)

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Rig corners mounting just doesn't work, if you mount under the seat, make sure that seat with attached transducers is isolated from the rest of the rig, you can bolt them to MDF board riding on isolators with seat on the top.

 

[feraligators]

I'm planning on having two shakers on my seat. Would it be better to have both under the seat in a L/R config or one on the bottom and one on the back?

I have a fiberglass seat which is curved on the back, are there any good solutions for mounting shakers to something like that?

 

[alexish657]

Rig corners mounting just doesn't work, if you mount under the seat, make sure that seat with attached transducers is isolated from the rest of the rig, you can bolt them to MDF board riding on isolators with seat on the top.

I'm trying to ramp up as fast as possible on this thread since my Buttkicker is on the way and I want to use it as fast as possible, but do you have an example of the mounting you are talking about ? I didn't plan to isolate the seat from the rest of the rig right now since I don't know how or where to begin.
My rig is siting on feet with pad that we put under furniture to slide them since I will need once in a while to move my rig. But I think I will need to at least have rubber feet.

 

[Novopaine]

I'm planning on having two shakers on my seat. Would it be better to have both under the seat in a L/R config or one on the bottom and one on the back?

I have a fiberglass seat which is curved on the back, are there any good solutions for mounting shakers to something like that?

The Aura's that you mentioned in your other post are pretty bulky. You may have issues mounting them both if you are planning to do any isolation as discussed in your other thread. Here's a picture of what I had when my rig was in my basement.

Under the seat rails was fine as there was plenty of space, but once I started moving toward isolating the seat, that meant I needed to move it up higher and clearance was a problem. Also, I tried L&R and it didn't work. I could not tell Left from Right.

L&R might work if you can figure out how to mount it to the sides of the seat mounting brackets, but then you will have them opposing each other and phase cancellation becomes an issue.

Mounting on the bottom and back would be doable, but I think you will need to drill holes directly into your seat. If your seat if fiberglass it would be easy, but then you'll have permanent holes in your chair. Not sure if that's important to you.

 

[feraligators]

The Aura's that you mentioned in your other post are pretty bulky. You may have issues mounting them both if you are planning to do any isolation as discussed in your other thread. Here's a picture of what I had when my rig was in my basement.
View attachment 631949
Under the seat rails was fine as there was plenty of space, but once I started moving toward isolating the seat, that meant I needed to move it up higher and clearance was a problem. Also, I tried L&R and it didn't work. I could not tell Left from Right.

L&R might work if you can figure out how to mount it to the sides of the seat mounting brackets, but then you will have them opposing each other and phase cancellation becomes an issue.

Mounting on the bottom and back would be doable, but I think you will need to drill holes directly into your seat. If your seat if fiberglass it would be easy, but then you'll have permanent holes in your chair. Not sure if that's important to you.

So did you end up running both of these so they acted as one shaker? Thanks for the picture, I think attaching it to the wood like that is a great idea.

And yes seat is fiberglass and I don't really mind drilling into it.

 

[Novopaine]

I had each shaker connected to independent channels. When I played either the left or the right they both felt like the sound was coming from the center of the seat (which is what I expected would happen). So I ended up just mirroring the effects to both to get double the strength.

Since I've started trying to isolate the seat I can no longer fit them both in this configuration. I might just stick with one base shaker in the end. Decoupling the seat through isolation should allow me to feel a more with less (in theory). I'm also going to be adding a bunch of small transducers to the back of the seat which should fill in any gaps.

 

[avatariogaruda]

Mr. Latte, whats your opinion of the new HF8?

Seems to be somewhat in line with your philosophy of multiple smaller tactile units in a similar config as what I have seen you recommend. I was very close to buying several pucks and take apart my NLR seat to try and make a similar setup, seems a better value to just buy the HF8.

Currently I have 4 BST-1's, 2x on my either side of my seat, and 2x on my Peddle Tray.
I've isolated the Peddle Tray from the rig as best I can, but it isn't great, as the Frame I have (NLR GT Track) doesn't allow for much in the way of customization...

I also have a Buttkicker Gamer 2 attached to my NLR Motion platform v3, and a Sim3D Rumble kit on my Fanatec Inverted v3's. I feel the smaller and closer TF pucks in the HF8 could help isolate some of the feedback lost in the crosstalk/noise.

Thoughts?

NVM, upon further research the HF8 is Rumble motors and not TD based... so back to the plan to buy TF pucks...

 

[MacRozie]

This is a beautiful thread, I appreciate the wealth of knowledge from everyone here. I’ve done my best to read through as much as I can, but have one quick question.

I’m unclear on the purpose of exciters directly on the backrest of seats. What sounds are people feeding through those? Engine noise? RPM?

I have a simple set up of a BST-1 on my pedal plate for kerbs and road feel, pedal tumblers for ABS/TC, and a buttkicker on my isolated seat for shifts, kerbs, and some road feel. Trying to figure out if these seat exciters people use are worth it and what they’re used for.

Thanks all!

 

[anton_Chez]

They're just another option for receiving feedback. The good thing about them is that they are small, easy to mount and power provided you have the correct seat type. You can send any effect you want to them and since they are close to your body they are fairly effective. Unfortunately for me I didn't find them all that useful when combined with my larger units and felt that they didn't offer too much, as they were overwhelmed by other things. So I now use larger units (BST-2) directly on the seat instead and they give me more feedback that is more noticeable with my other units running.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Speaking of another option for receiving feedback.
Anyone here with Sim 3D Pedal Rumble Kit, what's your experience?
There are few reviews available, feedback seems quite positive.

 

[MacRozie]

Speaking of another option for receiving feedback.
Anyone here with Sim 3D Pedal Rumble Kit, what's your experience?
There are few reviews available, feedback seems quite positive.

I have these, though a home built set from a UK based eBay seller (significantly cheaper, but wiring is on you). It took me time to get the settings right, but I like them. I drive barefoot and can feel them fire up, indicating I’m at the limits for braking or accelerating.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

I have these, though a home built set from a UK based eBay seller (significantly cheaper, but wiring is on you). It took me time to get the settings right, but I like them. I drive barefoot and can feel them fire up, indicating I’m at the limits for braking or accelerating.

Wondering how well they would transmit rumbling with massive brake pedals and driving shoes, reviewers saying it's pretty strong that they never use them at full force, my past experience with similar contraption on Fanatec CSP v3 was quite underwhelming though.