The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Moxley6969 · Apr 9, 2019

EsxPaul said:
I was thinking of going for these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bluecharge...B25+Connector&qid=1554821118&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Paired with these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/FDL-PIN-D-...YBM3Q911KWX&psc=1&refRID=ZNW5HE2W6YBM3Q911KWX

you get a set of these with the drivers you know eh ?

Flag Ghost · Apr 9, 2019

RE: DB25 <> RJ45
I used these and they worked out great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066HP56/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

BenKay · Apr 9, 2019

Not sure about anybody else, but I got solder DB25 plug and housing included in my motor/servo driver order? One per motor.

sn4il · Apr 9, 2019

This assumes that the wires in the existing DB25 cable are colour-coded, and colour-coded correctly

You can always trace a pin with ohmmeter or battery/bulb combo

sn4il · Apr 9, 2019

Not sure about anybody else, but I got solder DB25 plug and housing included in my motor/servo driver order? One per motor.

I also received one plug & housing per each drive.

sn4il · Apr 9, 2019

It would be great if Pyronious could release another board with dedicated solder spots for db25 cables, per each drive. This way we could cut any db25 cable to desired length and solder directly onto pcb.
I'm working on my controller box right now and would love to get rid of those 4 extra bulky DB25 connectors.

Crashtappen · Apr 9, 2019

ScottSonder said:
Not sure if it's a language barrier or something, but that's wiring in 'series'. Just make sure you know what you're doing, if you're connected to main power, any exposed wire could be a danger.

You can call it series, bridged, cascade, as you wish ... Looks like you understand me

I know how to deal with electricity don't worry, I am even wiring it on a dedicated line with according protections but my question was just for wiring convenience.

I am just wondering if the last 2 controllers are not gonna "overheat" with all the total current flowing through them ?

EsxPaul · Apr 9, 2019

Moxley6969 said:
you get a set of these with the drivers you know eh ?

Of course. I was suggesting those as a way of making up new/ modifying the lengths of existing cables

DotComRich · Apr 9, 2019

ScottSonder said:
This is the 2nd time I've seen this guy post that he grounded his 'rig', and I quoted him the same way you did asking how he did it. He never replied.

The most heavy duty way of grounding an entire rig would be to run a terminal from a screw into your actual outlet. Any other way you can just connect something to a GND pin, so if you've grounded your HE's, your rig should be grounded as well. It all ends up being grounded in the same spot, at the outlet

My understanding of it at least after I looked into it a bit.

Sorry I was not aware of any others asking, but yes I went the heavy duty method taking a 3 prong power cable with an on off switch, stripped the ground and wrapped it around one of the bolts on my Simetik K2 cockpit, then directly into an outlet. The ground works even when the on/off switch on the cord is turned off.

ScottSonder · Apr 9, 2019

Crashtappen said:
You can call it series, bridged, cascade, as you wish ... Looks like you understand me

I know how to deal with electricity don't worry, I am even wiring it on a dedicated line with according protections but my question was just for wiring convenience.

I am just wondering if the last 2 controllers are not gonna "overheat" with all the total current flowing through them ?

You never know when you're talking anonymously on the internet, so I'm always going to assume I'm talking to a Macaque

But no, there's no issue with daisy chaining, wiring in series, cascading, or bridging here. It's all gravy, baby.

@DotComRich
Cool, thanks for clarifying. I figured you went into the outlet after I did some research. Good information to know for those with real problems.

ScottSonder · Apr 9, 2019

sn4il said:
It would be great if Pyronious could release another board with dedicated solder spots for db25 cables, per each drive. This way we could cut any db25 cable to desired length and solder directly onto pcb.
I'm working on my controller box right now and would love to get rid of those 4 extra bulky DB25 connectors.

That would be super ugly? You can already use the DB25 plugs and housing provided with the motors as Ben Kay just said. That's not much of a footprint, and it would look a heck of a lot better than random wiring soldered on a PCB.

RowanH · Apr 9, 2019

sn4il said:
It would be great if Pyronious could release another board with dedicated solder spots for db25 cables, per each drive. This way we could cut any db25 cable to desired length and solder directly onto pcb.
I'm working on my controller box right now and would love to get rid of those 4 extra bulky DB25 connectors.

If you're wanting to go the smallest package, Nick Moxley has a design for you. Gets rid of DB25 connectors and you do some basic soldering, wire straight to the Arduino. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3402880

sn4il · Apr 9, 2019

That's not much of a footprint,

Its actually quiet a lot. You could cut the size of the enclosure box in half as well.

You can already use the DB25 plugs and housing provided with the motors

I'm already thinking how to eliminate DB25 connector on servo drive side......

sn4il · Apr 9, 2019

If you're wanting to go the smallest package, Nick Moxley has a design for you. Gets rid of DB25 connectors and you do some basic soldering, wire straight to the Arduino. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3402880

Thnx Rowan.
I have that box already printed. I also have Pyronious box assembled.

The_Patman · Apr 9, 2019

Hi, I'm also in the process of building the SFX100 and I've a question about the Arduino to be used. Would it be possible to use an Arduino Micro instead of a Leonardo? They are technically identical only the footprint is different...

ThugUK · Apr 9, 2019

Regarding the noise/whine I came across this post from a few years ago...

Servo controllers work by calculating the difference between the demand position and the actual position. The difference (the error signal) is used to drive the servo in the required direction. Usually small error signals are ignored to stop the servo hunting or buzzing. This is called the dead band. You could try increasing the dead band if it is under your control. The down side is reduced position accuracy. Also it may not stop the buzzing if the servo has to provide a holding torque eg the servo is under a constant load that would pull it out of position.

Now bearing in mind I don't have mine yet so cant try it and may be totally off the mark, could it be the position of the motor and it trying to hold the rig in place causing the sound? Maybe a simple test would be to support the rig (and therefore the actuators) off the ground to release the weight on the motors as a test.

Or does it still make the noise if the motors are off the rig all together?

Actually, forget what I said, just found a video of the motor running without anything on it and it still makes the noise.

Actually this is interesting...https://servotechusa.com/faq-items/minimizing-noise-on-your-servo-system/

Furnace Inferno · Apr 9, 2019

My parts came early today but again the spec is all over the place, the screw housing is longer so won’t fit flush inside the slider which caused another one to split. Starting to get a little pissed off with it now! Back to the printer and this is why buying one is super useful.

Pyronious · Apr 10, 2019

sn4il said:
It would be great if Pyronious could release another board with dedicated solder spots for db25 cables, per each drive. This way we could cut any db25 cable to desired length and solder directly onto pcb.
I'm working on my controller box right now and would love to get rid of those 4 extra bulky DB25 connectors.

I've considered designing another board that uses just RJ45 connectors for use with those RJ45->DB25 enclosures. That could make the controller box very small indeed. If I pursue that design I would consider adding a set of pads for direct wiring as well. Consider it in my backlog.

However, I should note that my rig extrusions arrive tomorrow and I will be bolting it together and firing up my motion rig for the first time. So my attention is going to be seriously affected by that.