The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

ScottSonder · Apr 11, 2019

Vantskruv said:
My USB-hub is comitting suicide when the motors starts running. Moved it to another place, of course an awkard place to make everything harder, and the problems disappeared.

I have ordered a netfilter and will go buy some ferrit-cores, and do some smart cable-placement.

That could just be an overloaded USB controller. Not sure what else you had on that hub, but this isn't always EMI issues.

ScottSonder · Apr 11, 2019

Crashtappen said:
Today I have finished the actuators assembly but I faced a problem on all 4 of them.
When tightening the bolts of linear and fixed bearing mounts the parts starts cracking as soon as the bolts started to bite harder.

The result is I can't screw them tight enough or I am scared that the part will crack under pressure.

Has anyone experienced those cracking noise before ?

I'm printing with PLA since 3 years with my Prusa and used the recommended Simplify3D setup. PLA rolls from Prusa as they never failed on le.

Okay, how are people even doing this? I had to have the most ghetto prints here. I used a QIDI that could barely print a square with Cura. I couldn't get close to cracking the mounts. It's plastic! Don't torque it to infinity! Low torque clutch on your power drill and then hand tighten.

The sketchiest part was just the only place where plastic threads into plastic, the motor mount into the fixed bearing mount, and that's really because my prints were totally trash. I think you're overdriving the force needed here mate. If it bites, back off and move to the next hole.

Flag Ghost · Apr 11, 2019

[QUOTE="

- Install an EMI filter before your SFX100 actuator control boxes. Get a Schaffner FN2070-16-07 and wire it up like this:

[/QUOTE]

Hugo is the FN2070-16-07 the one with built in wire leads as opposed to just terminals?

Furnace Inferno · Apr 11, 2019

ScottSonder said:
Well, glad you're running mate.. Your cable management probably isn't helping your situation at all. I had no EMI problems when I was using the AF with the SFX, and I hadn't done anything special with ferrites or anything.

Obviously our setups are entirely different and it could be a number of things, but if you clean up your cabling, you might not have any issues. Don't let your AF USB run over your servo motor wires, etc.

@ThugUK Don't worry about anything until it becomes a problem.

Well the wires aren’t crossing or anything it’s just the accuforce motor cable goes near the front left actuator. I’ve tried moving the motor cables, didn’t work. Tried a few ferrite cores on the Accuforce motor cable, nope.

The only thing which got it to stay connected (flashing on/off in devices) was a random ferrite core on the Accuforce usb cable, however it already has some on it. I’m using a lot of usb extension cables though, going to take the controller box off the rig and see what happens.

I just want it to work now

Ringorian · Apr 11, 2019

I have one USB Controllrr which is complete **** (disconnects)in my PC, and the other can take all Things connected with two powered Hubs.

Flag Ghost · Apr 11, 2019

Tim Palmgren said:
@Flag Ghost that was pretty much what I was thinking though the one I was looking at seems to lack the wheels.

Im thinking 12U should be enough. The other question is whether there is enough clearance to be able to line the inside panels with some damping material? Or based on opinions here it is unlikely you can deaden some of that 10KHZ noise? I am not too worried about it but I figure if I can line the inside of the panels it seems to make a difference on my computer cases so would expect it must make SOME difference for a rack case like this?

My rolling rack will be here next week. Will find out soon enough.

ScottSonder · Apr 11, 2019

Furnace Inferno said:
Well the wires aren’t crossing or anything it’s just the accuforce motor cable goes near the front left actuator. I’ve tried moving the motor cables, didn’t work. Tried a few ferrite cores on the Accuforce motor cable, nope.

The only thing which got it to stay connected (flashing on/off in devices) was a random ferrite core on the Accuforce usb cable, however it already has some on it. I’m using a lot of usb extension cables though, going to take the controller box off the rig and see what happens.

I just want it to work now

Might want to contact SimX asking what their grounding solution is. I'm assuming they have something going on in the housing. My front left actuator is flush with the wheel deck upright that the AF was mounted on, so our configurations were very similar.

Cleaning up any and all cabling is good though, for sure. You in the Discord yet? I'd print Jimmy's 100x100 cable management clips and then there's also a bracket that bolts the actual plugs/connectors between motors and drivers to your profile. Probably helps eliminate the airborne EMI that plagues some of us.

Furnace Inferno · Apr 11, 2019

ScottSonder said:
Might want to contact SimX asking what their grounding solution is. I'm assuming they have something going on in the housing. My front left actuator is flush with the wheel deck upright that the AF was mounted on, so our configurations were very similar.

Cleaning up any and all cabling is good though, for sure. You in the Discord yet? I'd print Jimmy's 100x100 cable management clips and then there's also a bracket that bolts the actual plugs/connectors between motors and drivers to your profile. Probably helps eliminate the airborne EMI that plagues some of us.

God damn it, got the whole thing off, cables Away from each other, even broke out a USB hub to move the Arduino usb even further away and it just drops signal instantly still

. Everything else is complete fine, time to order some more ferrite cores and see what happens.

I’ve got all the cables strapped down on the rig and not moving it’s just not liking something. Perhaps it’s coming from the power cables as they are all plugged into the same one, I’ll try that next, whereas all the usb powered devices go into the PC which is on a different one.

Basically as soon as I press start it loses connection and once it’s completely stopped comes back to life.

Crashtappen · Apr 11, 2019

ScottSonder said:
Okay, how are people even doing this? I had to have the most ghetto prints here. I used a QIDI that could barely print a square with Cura. I couldn't get close to cracking the mounts. It's plastic! Don't torque it to infinity! Low torque clutch on your power drill and then hand tighten.

The sketchiest part was just the only place where plastic threads into plastic, the motor mount into the fixed bearing mount, and that's really because my prints were totally trash. I think you're overdriving the force needed here mate. If it bites, back off and move to the next hole.

Come on man, you re taking every users except you for noobs, stupids or whatever... i wonder if i should even loose time to answer you.

I am not over tightening anything if only you have red my post correctly. As soon as the screw is in contact with the plastic and i begin titghening, the plastic cracks. This is only happening in the holes for fixing the part to the aluminium extrusion. No problem on other holes. And by the way i am not even using a power drill, i am assembling everything by hand and finishing with torque wrench.

Again i am printing fine since 3/4 years, i have built 3 MPCNC in the last 2 years and never had a problem. I am not a noob wondering what a screwdriver is made for, or what a torque wrench is.

Thanks for your post anyway... i will think twice next i'll post.

sn4il · Apr 11, 2019

. Tried a few ferrite cores on the Accuforce motor cable, nope.

Connect your Accuforce to your pc front panel usb with only one cable.

HoiHman · Apr 11, 2019

@Furnace Inferno

Try to connect the Arduino and the AF both to different USB controllers. My AF cable runs pretty close to the servo cables, without a problem.

Also try a powered USB hub, that seems to have helped some people to

HugoB · Apr 11, 2019

Crashtappen said:
Come on man, you re taking every users except you for noobs, stupids or whatever... i wonder if i should even loose time to answer you.

I am not over tightening anything if only you have red my post correctly. As soon as the screw is in contact with the plastic and i begin titghening, the plastic cracks. This is only happening in the holes for fixing the part to the aluminium extrusion. No problem on other holes. And by the way i am not even using a power drill, i am assembling everything by hand and finishing with torque wrench.

Again i am printing fine since 3/4 years, i have built 3 MPCNC in the last 2 years and never had a problem. I am not a noob wondering what a screwdriver is made for, or what a torque wrench is.

Thanks for your post anyway... i will think twice next i'll post.

What material are you using? PLA is known to be brittle in some cases, also depending on the manufacturer. But is your material really breaking? Or is it only making cracking sounds? Because my PETG also made light cracking sounds when I tightened things up strongly, this slight cracking sound was there during the first few runs and then I guess the internal stresses of the material were distributed and set and it was all silent.
I'd think that PLA cracks less because it doesn't bend as much, it rather breaks, with PETG I'd think that because it's more flexible the bending would lead to layer stress being heard.

But if your prints are really visibly breaking, something is wrong, this shouldn't happen with normal hand tightening. Are your prints straight? Is the bottom flat? If because of warping your print is slightly bent, this could also make the material break when you tighten it. The only reason I can think of if your prints are flat and you are using the correct print settings, that your material strength is off, maybe the filament was moist from storing it in a high humidity area too long? Or maybe try a different manufacturer and see if the same thing happens?

Flag Ghost · Apr 11, 2019

For what it's worth I've been through many USB hubs and Anker brand powered USB 3.0 hubs have worked the best for me by far. I run two Anker 10 port hubs into a single USB 3.0 port on my computer without issue.

sn4il · Apr 11, 2019

I'm just sticking all of my electronics including SFX controllers, OSW controller, 110>220v converter, PSU's, bass shaker amp, etc.. in this..

Aren't you afraid of EMI issues with all components placed so close??
I'm building a wooden controller box but would prefer to go with a wall mounted cabinet rack.
I don't have much knowledge nor experience in that field. How critical is placement of servo drives and cable management in our case???

Flag Ghost · Apr 11, 2019

sn4il said:
Aren't you afraid of EMI issues with all components placed so close??
I'm building a wooden controller box but would prefer to go with a wall mounted cabinet rack.
I don't have much knowledge nor experience in that field. How critical is placement of servo drives and cable management in our case???

Case looks great! My rig has to be portable so I need a portable solution for the electronics. I'm going to use an EMI filter plus the USB ferrite clips. I will do my best to keep the wiring separated. At the end of the day I will just have to see what works.

HugoB · Apr 11, 2019

BTW upped my USB hub to a 10 port now (with 12V 4A power adapter), because of the added button box and later on windsim, g-seat and harness tensioner, 7 ports is no longer enough. Lets see if 10 ports also work over one USB..

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00Q4RF1UC

HugoB · Apr 11, 2019

Flag Ghost said:
Hugo is the FN2070-16-07 the one with built in wire leads as opposed to just terminals?

Yes, 07 means wire leads.

If you're really paranoid about EMI going into your net, the FN2090LL-16-06 is the most powerful two stage EMI suppressor, it's the 'enhanced performance' version (LL) of the 2090, which is already the strongest of the series.

Talkwrench · Apr 11, 2019

RowanH said:
Please note for the Raceroom people they've changed their API with the latest update - @saxxon66 is digging into it - did a bit of a late night on update date, the src link above is for the source code if you've got dev skills and want to test yourselves. A beta DLL has been compiled and getting tested by some people from the owners discord, once it's been put through it's paces next couple of days - then he'll put it in the main repository above/linked publicly.

Hows the testing going with the Raceroom update, anything available for us mere mortals yet? I'm getting withdrawal symptoms

Furnace Inferno · Apr 11, 2019

Finally got it all working! So after moving all the wiring that took me quite some time to originally do, ended up being a waste of time, turns out I just needed it on a separate surge protected extension socket to the motors.

As soon as I did that it stopped disconnecting, I was hoping to get to sleep 3 hours ago but here we are! Anyway did a few laps but not got a feel for it yet, seemed like a gentle ride until I went off road or hit a sausage kerb and then it made me think Dirt Rally will be hilarious!

Will have to plump for expert mode once I have more time to play around with it. Plus I’ll be able to check the maximum movement the rig will move to see how close I can put it to the wall.