The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[ThugUK]

When idle as well. Must have pressed Start though to hear them.

If you mean Start in Simfeedback then I didn’t because I don’t have my connector box yet from the group but.

Can you record a short clip? Just curious about 10 kHz whine.

I have taken them apart now but will do it tomorrow as I am on nights tonight.

 

[saxxon66]

Do the motors only make the whine when under load?
I have just connected them all together and JOG tested them (no actuator, just motors) and didn't hear anything at all.

The motor will start to make the noise using step/position jog mode.
So make sure your are using this mode, it has two jog modes, position and speed.

 

[ThugUK]

The motor will start to make the noise using step/position jog mode.
So make sure your are using this mode, it has two jog modes, position and speed.

I used the jog mode like in this page...
https://opensfx.com/testing-and-configuring-servo-drives/

 

[sberns]

Nearly done building my actuators. One issue so far that has been bothering me. When I used the grease gun for the ball nuts, two of them seemed to have grease flow out from all areas but two seemed to have grease only push through one area, as if tolerances were poor in an area that prevented even distribution of grease. I later also noticed a lack of grease on those two ball screws after moving the ball-nut up and down a few times. Does anyone think that I need to stop, reorder new ones and start over or is it ok to proceed? I’m inclined to press on and figure that worse case it will just be a bit noisier. What do you guys think?

 

[sn4il]

I would also recommend Wyze Cam V2 & Wemo Smart Plug.

 

[ThugUK]

I don’t think you will have any issues to be honest.
When/where did you order your ball screws from? I’m still waiting a delivery no. From the 14th April.

 

[sberns]

I don’t think you will have any issues to be honest.
When/where did you order your ball screws from? I’m still waiting a delivery no. From the 14th April.

Got them from Emily in March. They were otherwise perfect AFAIK

 

[sberns]

Post Edited - Had a problem with the wiring - finally figured it out. I’m not sure if the github page needs updating but I’ll explain in another post when I have more time.

 

[RowanH]

Err that's a bit weird. I'm inclined to say there would be a wiring issue somewhere (I understand you say you've tested it). If you're getting a green light from the motors that means the Arduino should be receiving commands, so it's really just down to what's going on between the Arduino and the drives. If all 4 are not going through the startup motion, then... my guess is wiring, and likely something wrong with the "ENA" or ground part of the wiring.

I can't speak to the modbus option, If you get really stuck hunt through the manual and see what references there are to modbus in the pn---- settings area.. something might jump out at you.

 

[Tim Palmgren]

Quick question on actuator assembly. How freely should the fixed bearing rotate? If I tried to tighten the bearing nut as hard as possible the fixed bearing wasn't really rotating at all so I backed it off slightly and tightened the grub screw. Was that the incorrect way to go about it? I also forgot to put the loctite on at the time. would it be acceptable to back out the grub screw and squirt loctite onto the top of the thread around the nut already tightened + into the grub screw hole? Anyone know if the grub screw on its own would hold without loctite?

 

[sberns]

My motors failed to spin due to a mistake in my wiring. It related to my interpretation of the github electronics diagram. If you look at the attached pics, you will notice the typical pin layout of a DB25 connector compared to the github diagram. From this, I concluded that 5v lead is DB PIN 5, where the beta tester chart lists the 5v lead as DB PIN 9. This is because the pin row count in the github diagram is reversed from the typical DB25 layout! Please have a look in case I'm wrong, but this was my error. Once I noticed the beta tester's chart, I corrected my mistakes and all worked! Perhaps the diagram may need to be revised?

 

[RowanH]

@Steve Bernstein I'll have a look into it. I guess most (/all?) people who've built this far (including me) just visually id'd the pin sequence off the diagram.

@Tim Palmgren yes the back it off slightly is what I did. I would take the nuts off, put loctite on, then do them back up again - that way the loctite is going all the way around the threads. I doubt the grub screw hole alone would hold it. A couple of extra mins now vs the prospect of them coming loose later on.

 

[metalnwood]

Steve, I wouldnt say that the picture of the db25 is right or wrong as you cannot tell if you are looking at the bottom or the top. It is certainly ambiguous so I would just look at the table on that page that lists which pin DB connects to what arduino pin.

That pic of the DB25 you posted from the wiki is a bit like showing someone a zoomed in pic of a crater. Some will see a crater, some will see a mountain as by itself you cant tell which way it oriented.

 

[C64]

Quick question on actuator assembly. How freely should the fixed bearing rotate? If I tried to tighten the bearing nut as hard as possible the fixed bearing wasn't really rotating at all so I backed it off slightly and tightened the grub screw. Was that the incorrect way to go about it? I also forgot to put the loctite on at the time. would it be acceptable to back out the grub screw and squirt loctite onto the top of the thread around the nut already tightened + into the grub screw hole? Anyone know if the grub screw on its own would hold without loctite?

Loctite stays liquid in the presence of air, so to get it to set you need to get it right into the threads. Its weird stuff.

 

[Number 20Seven]

How long did rc-letmathe take with the ball screws?
I ordered mine on the 14th April and still no parcel number.

So Looks like a new batch just came in to them. Just got this email from them!

Hello
the new order of Kugelumlaufspindeln will reach us next Tuesday 07.05. So your parcel is going to be shipped soon.

 

[Tim Palmgren]

@RowanH I was afraid you would say that, fun times ahead. Out of curiosity what would happen if that nut came loose? Wouldn't it also be held in place by the coupler attached above it? Or is there a significant gap between the nut and the coupler? The other question I had when I was testing the actuator with a drill is due to there not being a stop of some kind on the other end, is it just down to the software to decide that it isn't going to shoot you into the ceiling? (along with an explosion of bearings).

 

[Vantskruv]

Nearly done building my actuators. One issue so far that has been bothering me. When I used the grease gun for the ball nuts, two of them seemed to have grease flow out from all areas but two seemed to have grease only push through one area, as if tolerances were poor in an area that prevented even distribution of grease.
...

When pressing in the grease, it will take the easiest way out. Had that problem too. My solution was to use the printed bumpstop and hold it in place where the grease comes out first the best I can (forcing the grease going out in the far end), and keep putting in grease until it comes out on the other side. It will be messy, but it works after a couple of pumps of grease.

 

[Vantskruv]

@RowanH
...
The other question I had when I was testing the actuator with a drill is due to there not being a stop of some kind on the other end, is it just down to the software to decide that it isn't going to shoot you into the ceiling? (along with an explosion of bearings).

Yep, the software is the only one which decides the travel of the actuators, there is no sense of when the slider reaches any of the ends. So it is important before connecting and starting up the motors with the simfeedback software to align the sliders. If you would ever (god have mercy on you) have the sliders in the bottom position when pressing start in simfeedback, the actuators will probably "explode". XD

I guess, for extra safety, there is a possibility to make a custom solution for this -- installing small break-switches (two per actuator, at the extreme-points), and connect them to the emergency-stop circuit in series. But I do not think it is necessary, I would believe the system is quite exact, and if the coupler would come loose at some point, the motor will just spin, hopefully not breaking your actuator.

 

[HoiHman]

The servos have a torque protection build in and will shut down when the slider hits the 3D printed parts at low speeds. So if your parts are printed right, you do not have to fear the servos breaking your bearing holders when starting simfeedback.

But... when it happens at full speed (3000rpm) that is a different story

 

[sberns]

Steve, I wouldnt say that the picture of the db25 is right or wrong as you cannot tell if you are looking at the bottom or the top. It is certainly ambiguous so I would just look at the table on that page that lists which pin DB connects to what arduino pin.

That pic of the DB25 you posted from the wiki is a bit like showing someone a zoomed in pic of a crater. Some will see a crater, some will see a mountain as by itself you cant tell which way it oriented.

Guess what, I only ever looked at the electronics page on my phone, and because of that, I never noticed that the DB25 pins were also listed in the table and I was only working off that pic! I had a hard time figuring out the pic, but because one row has 12 pins and the other has 13 pins, I based my orientation on that. Obviously the table clears this up completed and I can’t believe I didn’t see the DB25 column. Thanks for chiming in.