The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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That's what I did @Moe Ballout. I removed 4 Aura Bass shakers in Chassis Mode and swapped them for the BK Mini LFE x 2, at the seat and pedals. I've now added a handful of Dayton Pucs for the seat but still nothing in a dedicated Chassis Mode and nothing with left / right separation.

I pretty much ONLY use RPM and Speed. Gives a great feeling of power on the throttle.
Do you use Simvibe?
 
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Yes I do in chassis mode. I have 4 lfe so I was trying to see if I would mount two on my sparco seat but I do not want to drill the seat. And Ill find some other place for the two.
Ok. Look I have a motion of 4 actuators system very similar to the SFX100 and when I forget to turn on my 4 buttkickers I feel that I’m missing something. It adds a lot to my driving experience specially rpms, textures and speed. No need to bumps or gear changing because you feel these with Heave and Surge. I have all of them on my seat.
 
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Ok. Look I have a motion of 4 actuators system very similar to the SFX100 and when I forget to turn on my 4 buttkickers I feel that I’m missing something. It adds a lot to my driving experience specially rpms, textures and speed. No need to bumps or gear changing because you feel these with Heave and Surge. I have all of them on my seat.
Can you send me a pic of how you have them mounted please? Thank you
 
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Can you send me a pic of how you have them mounted please? Thank you
upload_2019-5-24_22-58-3.jpg

Same on the other side
I have one under my seat but I can’t reach it to make a photo and I have 2 buttkickers gamer 2 on both side of the aluminum profile where the seat is mounted
upload_2019-5-24_23-0-43.jpg
 
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Quick question for you guys: I've been studying the 'sway' effect in SimFeedback (Assetto Corsa) and I've noticed almost all profiles I've got from Discord have it inverted compared to the original AC profile from @saxxon66 ...

I've always been running it like the base profile, meaning that if I initiate a right corner, the rig quickly tilts to the right. At high speed this works well (with for example GT3 or F1 cars), because this way my Sparco seat's shoulders push my shoulders correctly: in a right hand corner, my left shoulder gets a push, or, it feels like I get pushed into my left shoulder (kindof, with some imagination ;)). In the new RSS F1 2019 this feels great when tuned correctly to the g-forces of the car, I can feel the grip in a corner loosing or catching, jolting me in a fashion my brain expects. This should be the effect in my opinion, but it has a massive downside: this 'sway' effect is of course being applied to the roll axis, so when the car rolls, this roll motion is opposite to the 'sway' effect. At high speeds in cars with anti roll bars or very stiff suspension this is not a problem because the car doesn't roll that much anyway, so the 'sway' effect is dominant, but with slower cars that don't generate that much g-forces or cars that roll a lot with soft suspension etc. the sway and roll cancel each other out in corners and it's a shame to lose the roll information of the car!

Now I've tried inverting the 'sway' effect like most everyone else, but it feels weird to me, it feels like I'm on some wobbly bouncy ball. But I can understand the sentiment.

For sustained cornering g-forces the ‘sway’ effect like I use it is completely useless of course, even wrong. It only makes sense for the initial ‘jolt’, in my opinion. If you invert it, like many profiles on the Discord, the initial ‘jolt’ sense is wrong, but the sustained feeling is correct, but only if you use enough roll angle that you would feel anything. Small angles are useless then in my opinion.

I think I'll turn off the 'sway' effect for cars that roll a lot, and leave it on for high speed F1 action. I should be receiving my g-seat sway panels from SeatTime soon, I think these will make much more sense and then I can hopefully do away with the 'sway' effect on the roll axis.

How do you think about this? Do you use 'sway' and in what direction?

Also, I've ordered multiple Arduino shields, so I'm anxious to build a traction loss platform and use a dedicated actuator for this. I've found that PT-Actuators have a fold-back actuator that other people have demonstrated to use with TL: http://pt-actuator.com/proshow.asp?strID=127 It uses the same AASD-15A servo controller with DB25 connectors that will work with our Arduino and SimFeedback.

Does anyone already use TL? What type of actuator? @saxxon66 will this fold-back actuator (with belt) do the job or should we be building a geared slider or such?
 
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