The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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Question about DD wheel on a motion rig.
Listening to any review on DD wheel in general or any particular DD wheel model, an advice always come up as sine qua non condition for appreciating the superiority of DD wheel is that the wheel base as to be attached to a very sturdy, zero movement, rig. If not all the fine details that makes the DD wheel special are lost.
Watching any full motion rig, the wheel is not fixed anymore, it follows the movement and trepidation of the motion software it is mounted on.
I do not have motion (yet) hence the question, but I have tactile, with some vibration attached to to front of my rig, I can feel the tactile in my wheel, which is great but at the same time it muddies the fine FFB details felt in my non DD wheel rim.
what do the motion rig DD wheel user have to say about that?

Cote, I believe that when you say a zero movement rig that this really means a zero movement mount. In this respect a motion sim built around something like a P1, or anything else sturdy, is still a zero movement mount.

It's not about the movement of the rig but about the movement of any rig that absorbs the forces of the DD wheel. So a weak mount you put your dd wheel on that will flex under the torque is just absorbing your details from the wheel. A strong one, even on a motion platform will transmit those forces to your arms although you will have more sensory overload with the motion going on.
 
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That switch is dual pole which means there are a set of Normal Open contact and a set of Normally Closed contacts.

The OSW and SFX-100 units both require a set of normally closed contacts and you can't join them together on the one set of contacts, so you'd need to have two of these E-stop switches. :(


Look again, there is a 6 pin option with 2 separate set of contacts, be it N/O or N/C
 
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Question for those that have built already. How loose were your sliders in the profiles? Mine required some light sanding to fit, and they will just support themselves vertically in the profile, but a light touch will cause them to move. Action up and down the bore is smooth, just wanted to know if yours were self-supporting in the extrusion or fall through loose.
 
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Question for those that have built already. How loose were your sliders in the profiles? Mine required some light sanding to fit, and they will just support themselves vertically in the profile, but a light touch will cause them to move. Action up and down the bore is smooth, just wanted to know if yours were self-supporting in the extrusion or fall through loose.
Quite a lot of posts regarding this and most appear to be tight, which slacken a little over time.
Mine needed persuading with a mallet to move, but are now nice and free moving (but still no slack).
 
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I guess it's the wear in vs hand fit argument then. I feel comfortable with how they are fitting now. They have no slack in them, but they also should not put the drivers into an overload condition. Will be interesting to see how they hold up over time.
 
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Since I'm putting actuators together now, should probably configure drivers and test the servos. I'm planning on using 110V to power the drivers as many on here have said they are doing trouble free. In doing so, do I wire the hot to L1 and neutral to L2 on the drivers? Do I need to connect ground to L3 also?
 
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I guess it's the wear in vs hand fit argument then. I feel comfortable with how they are fitting now. They have no slack in them, but they also should not put the drivers into an overload condition. Will be interesting to see how they hold up over time.
I wouldn't worry about overloading them.
Have you seen the video where @saxxon66 stands on his rig whilst his friend is using it?
Thats the full weight of the rig, with 2 grown men on it, so possibly 35 stone + in weight.
Tight'ish sliders will be no problems at all for these motors.
 
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I wouldn't worry about overloading them.
Have you seen the video where @saxxon66 stands on his rig whilst his friend is using it?
Thats the full weight of the rig, with 2 grown men on it, so possibly 35 stone + in weight.
Tight'ish sliders will be no problems at all for these motors.
Thanks. Almost done threading extrusion, and have sliders fitted. All looking pretty good so far. Should start assembly tonight with any luck. As soon as I can get out of work, that is.....
 
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Why does no one ever solve the wife issues with some nice expensive wireless headphones, much less work and expense than making 150kg of rig bouncing up and down quiet.

Also much easier to make the wife wear than a gag.

It seems like a solution (ha ha) but vibrations also will travel to other rooms and even possibly the neighbors, so some form of antivibration or sound deadening is needed for evening or late night racing.
 
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Typical UK homeowner, this motion being used in an upstairs room, just how noisy are its vibrations below.
It is vital we do not interrupt Coronation Street or the Mrs other essential viewing in the living room.

Anyone ever do some dB readings?

I found the dining room on the ground floor a very good compromise, they are so overrated anyway.
 
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Received the eternal parts from Amy/Skye today. Hopefully the parts are to spec. I'm tossing up between broaching the couplers or just scoring them with a file. Have to find someone to broach and it will cost more money obviously.
 

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Anyone know why 3d printing the slider, the holes for the hollow rod, and the screw bearing are too tight?
I printed mine using "outside in" setting in simplify3d... so perimeters get printed first, this reduces "squish" on the external layer but the downside is you get more stringing in the bolt holes... although this has not caused any problems.
 
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