The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[metalnwood]

@Requis It's called broaching which creates the keyway.

Depending where you are it could cost you ~$80usd to get the right broach and bushes.

Here is what the process looks like, from a very good youtube channel.

 

[HoiHman]

So when you make a pit stop, you actually go up and....

are being dropped back on to the ground

 

[Requis]

@Requis It's called broaching which creates the keyway.

Depending where you are it could cost you ~$80usd to get the right broach and bushes.

Here is what the process looks like, from a very good youtube channel.

Thank you sir!!! any down side to broaching for this project?

 

[metalnwood]

@Wmacky This is what the 12u unit looks like. The width is good, the 4 servo drives will go in nicely side by side, the depth is what makes it look so large when you see it.

As I say, unless you have a lot of other stuff to put in it, 15U will be huge

 

[MADShootStuff]

So when you make a pit stop, you actually go up and....

are being dropped back on to the ground

Oh, nice. Didn't even consider that! They just added pit stop animations to the Dallara cars in iRacing too...

Side note, got the Emily special and the step up converter today. Motors come tomorrow then printer on Saturday. Last piece will be the Kinetic order!

 

[Wmacky]

@Wmacky This is what the 12u unit looks like. The width is good, the 4 servo drives will go in nicely side by side, the depth is what makes it look so large when you see it.

As I say, unless you have a lot of other stuff to put in it, 15U will be huge
View attachment 282315 View attachment 282316

Thanks. The only reason for the 15U was the included castors. I thought it would be easier to roll it around! Can you PM me more info about the deal you got on the 12u? Still available?

 

[metalnwood]

I am in New Zealand, the rack itself wasn't on special just a number of components to fit in to it. So your best bet is getting something local. Good idea with the wheels, I will have to add wheels to mine because I do want to move it and secondly you need to have it raised if you want to use the bottom cable port.

 

[Requis]

@Requis It's called broaching which creates the keyway.
Depending where you are it could cost you ~$80usd to get the right broach and bushes.
Here is what the process looks like, from a very good youtube channel.

@metalnwood How would you Key the shaft to fit ? You wouldn't happen to have a video for that would you?
Really appreciate your help, I called the metal shop this afternoon and willing to do all for for $70.00, asked me how want to key the shaft....said yikes shaggy not sut sure Any thoughts?
Cheers,
requis

 

[Requis]

I am in New Zealand, the rack itself wasn't on special just a number of components to fit in to it. So your best bet is getting something local. Good idea with the wheels, I will have to add wheels to mine because I do want to move it and secondly you need to have it raised if you want to use the bottom cable port.

@sjb266 & metalinwood
Out of curiosity do you need to see the display on the electronics? Will adjustments be required at the electronics end? I was going to set it and forget it, but wondering now if I need to re think the case, looks like most have cool visual to their builds... I was just looking to see if I could get everything into my half Height rack
And never thought about the fact that actual adjustments maybe necessary. I have rails that I could put on the chasis for the rack to pull it in and out...how much do you actually use the displays any advice one way or the other?

 

[metalnwood]

@Requis The shaft on the motor is already done and has a key installed. Most will be taking the key out but you would just keep it in.

Once things are set you dont have to see them or access them so it doesnt matter where they live.

Some of us are just adding a bit of bling, I know I have got suckered in to a bit of bling but I am changing every part of my system so whats a little bit extra on a box

 

[frankrizzo2]

Hey Fella's I'm up and running.

Awesome! Glad you are up and running! So what route did you end up taking on the power side of things? Did you run a 220v line or did you go the inverter route?

 

[Grumpybeard]

Going to be ordering parts, and in last couple of pages seen the name Emily mentioned, is she from one of the suppliers, and what’s the deal here, direct email to order or double check parts? Thanks for any clarification.

 

[MADShootStuff]

Awesome! Glad you are up and running! So what route did you end up taking on the power side of things? Did you run a 220v line or did you go the inverter route?

He had a 220 line installed. I'll be going the step up route. I'll post updates once I've got all the parts and start testing.

 

[Requis]

Going to be ordering parts, and in last couple of pages seen the name Emily mentioned, is she from one of the suppliers, and what’s the deal here, direct email to order or double check parts? Thanks for any clarification.

@Grumpybeard
Emily is a supplier of Bearings, shaft, internal hardware for the SFX-100, she can be reached at
emily@ntl-bearing.com let her know you want the same order as Simon, pay the invoice through Alibaba and poof two weeks later your order arrives via DHL...note you may have to send in an extra email reminding them when you get the alibab fair trade email highlighting a delay in shipment. But that was easy and Emily is awesome to work with everything was great on my end. Good Luck with your Build, this is a blast...I'm about to go and broach my parts...wish me luck lol.

 

[Wmacky]

He had a 220 line installed. I'll be going the step up route. I'll post updates once I've got all the parts and start testing.

I have my step up voltage unit here waiting, but it will be a bit as al my parts are still boxed and waiting.

 

[Grumpybeard]

Cheers @Requis . Let us know how you get on with the broaching, as I’m in no rush this is something I’d be keen on doing

 

[frankrizzo2]

He had a 220 line installed. I'll be going the step up route. I'll post updates once I've got all the parts and start testing.

Okay thanks for the update. I wonder if he ended up with a single phase 220v or ran a split phase with 2 hots and a neutral? I really want to get things ordered soon but the inverter route would be easier as far as wiring goes. Either way I guess I should just get the stuff coming.

 

[AlexP37]

Yesterday my new pedals arrived and i mounted them. Went for a few laps and its bloody awesome. I’m still on 1200 rpm and its feeling really good.

Later on i wanted to put my monitors closer so i was testing max roll, surge, etc.
Then this happened with one actuator.

Dunno what went wrong exactly but it snapped.
3d printer is already working on a new part, thank god for this.

Edit:

By the looks of it i think its just a bad print.

 

[HoiHman]

Looks like bad layer adhesion Alex ??

The bottom part only gets stressed when the slider hits the lower bearing. There are a couple cases this could happen

- The lower bearing is too long ( i know there are chinese ones out there)
- Switching profiles often without pressing the stop button.
- Wrong settings in driver of the servo which causes bigger movements

When a profile is active and you switch to another you need to press stop first.

If you do not do this, the actuators do not go down all the way down before they go up again. If you do this a couple of times, the slider can hit the lower bearing.

In all cases though, if you have a solid print it should hold without breaking as long as it happens at low speeds. The overtorque protection of the servos should kick in and shut them down.

Downside is that this will set you back at least 12 hours and but also gives you bit less confidence about all the other 3d printed parts

I would advice to raise print temperature a bit to insure better adhesion.

I had a fair amount of times that the slider hit the lower bearing or upper bearing due to a number over reasons due to a problem with the ground wiring at the beginning.

There have been at least 5 or 6 times i had Simfeedback not shutting down on me correctly. At a restart the motors did not go up, but when i closed the program again i could hear the servos pulling down again. I could hear by the buzzing that they were already at the end.

As soon as you realise that, it's always handy that the emergency button is close at hand to shut them down.

I would advise all SFX100 to print a spare of each part, it's really cheap to do and in case something like this happens you can be up and running within 30 min.

 

[HugoB]

Very very true and helpful information HoiHman! I also noticed that sometimes the software is no longer in sync with the actuators, especially when switching and tuning, I realized soon there is a risk. So when I have the suspicion, I cut the power to the actuators (remote power switch on rig) and let them go down all the way, then restart SimFeedback and press start (with the game at pause), this has proven to always work and I’ve never hit bottom.

Regarding 3D printing, I agree, with structurally critical parts, I have tried to print as hot as possible. Some stringing will occur, but esthetics are of secondary importance. I tested the layer adhesion by printing a long hollow tower with only one perimeter and during the print I raised the hotend temperature with the knob on my Prusa every 2 cm approximately. Then when finished, I tried to break the tower at every layer and the strongest one without heat deformation was the temperature I have worked with.