The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[anton_Chez]

Surge and sway will be the lateral and longitudinal forces places on the car. So for surge you should feel the cockpit dip to the front under brakes and drop you back with the rear squatting under acceleration. These are different effects to roll and things like elevation changes. Those are the car physically rolling like when you go over large curbs and the car tilts or when you're going uphill on an incline. Different set of forces but simulated similarly given the degree of freedom of the actuators.

 

[HugoB]

Surge and sway will be the lateral and longitudinal forces places on the car. So for surge you should feel the cockpit dip to the front under brakes and drop you back with the rear squatting under acceleration. These are different effects to roll and things like elevation changes. Those are the car physically rolling like when you go over large curbs and the car tilts or when you're going uphill on an incline. Different set of forces but simulated similarly given the degree of freedom of the actuators.

Well explained @anton_Chez !! Couldn’t have said it better I personally love the sway effect in SimFeedback, it gives me lot’s of information about corner forces. Surge is also great, I have it higher than stock, and also a bit modified curve, but it can be rather harsh if you’re shifting through gears with paddles in a high performance car! If anyone wants to try my AC profile, I find it a blast! But it can be rather demanding of your body muscles (need a lot of tension to stay in control), I burn a lot of calories on this profile It can also be a challenge to find the pedals and the H-shifter position while going over bumps This is on 3000 RPM though. It also depends of course on your rig geometry, my actuators are 98 cm apart (center to center) front to back and 68 cm apart (center to center) left to right, so if you have it set up differently your experience may vary.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CPLd7beMrfhhKqlmDahvXAyxUSE_P7PN/view?usp=sharing

Try this on the Nordschleife with a GT3 car or best in the Mazda 787B, my favorite

 

[BluePotato00]

Thanks for the explanations of those effects.

Another question. I've heard there's a telemetry provider for Dirt 4, but I don't see Dirt 4 in the profile list in the left panel in SimFeedback. I found the NoLimits 2 telemetry on the wiki (it was a .zip file with several subfolders that went into the SimFeedback install directory), but I can't find one for Dirt 4 either on the wiki or on Discord. Could someone kindly point me to where it's at? Thank you.

 

[HoiHman]

It's the same one as the Dirt Rally plugin. You can also use a Dirt Rally profile and mod it, or just download my base profile from the discord channel.

To activate it edit the hardwaresettings config.ini in the same way as for Dirt Rally

 

[Requis]

Broaching Drive Shaft Clamps to avoid slippage Update:
Hi Guys, This is early going for me but thought I may as well get this step done so as to avoid any slipping issues in the future. And wanted to follow up on Broaching my Clamps on the shaft:
- Motor Side - Broached to 3/16 to accommodate existing keyway - $100.00 CDN for all four.
- Shaft Side Clamp - Set Screw hole drilled and set screw included with Shaft machined on one side to ensure solid set screw contact $100.00 CDN

Not sure if $200.00 CDN is reasonable but that was taxes in and I wanted to get it done. So I payed to play lol. If anyone else in Canada is interested in this step or found a place thats a better price, let folks know, or PM if someone wants to use the guy I found in Markham, See pics below feel free to PM with Any questions.

I'll be sure to post with any issues once built and operational, just finished printing all my parts and setting build day for next Saturday!

 

[Requis]

Sorry Guys if this has been posted, but my Slider off of the 3D printed materials list is SOOO tight it doesn't move at all. I can just barely get it on to the extruded Aluminum....How Much are folks sanding off to get it to slide?
This is as far as I can get the sliders on...Just prepping for Saturdays build any advice would be great!

Thank you!

 

[BluePotato00]

Sorry Guys if this has been posted, but my Slider off of the 3D printed materials list is SOOO tight it doesn't move at all. I can just barely get it on to the extruded Aluminum....How Much are folks sanding off to get it to slide?
This is as far as I can get the sliders on...Just prepping for Saturdays build any advice would be great!

Thank you!
View attachment 284860

Rowan Hick said his didn't fit either:
https://www.rowanhick.com/2018/12/2...-platform-part-3-actuator-mechanical-assembly

 

[Mr Latte]

For mounting monitors and tackling vibrations...
Has anyone considered a mounting solution that uses gas struts, similar to those for kitchen/cabinet doors or heavier based models (300N - 600N) often used for cars?

Ebay seems to be full of options.

 

[HugoB]

Rowan Hick said his didn't fit either:
https://www.rowanhick.com/2018/12/2...-platform-part-3-actuator-mechanical-assembly

I had that too on my first prints.. I had to calibrate my extruder.. Then they slipped in nicely.
Check my post about that here: https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...-simulator-thread.159524/page-20#post-2847744

A shortcut to get your prints slightly smaller overall, is to increase your 'Filament Diameter' in your slicer settings.

If you increase this value, say from 1.74 to 1.76 your prints will be overall smaller, because the printer thinks that so much filament makes so much print. Conversely, if you decrease this value your prints will be overall bigger. Of course it should actually be the exact value of your current filament, so that's why it's best to first calibrate your extruder using the above guide. When everything is set correctly, your prints will be dimensionally correct. My sliders all went in smoothly. When experimenting, only print a little piece of the slider so you don't use too much filament while calibrating

 

[MADShootStuff]

I had that too on my first prints.. I had to calibrate my extruder.. Then they slipped in nicely.
Check my post about that here: https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...-simulator-thread.159524/page-20#post-2847744

A shortcut to get your prints slightly smaller overall, is to increase your 'Filament Diameter' in your slicer settings.

If you increase this value, say from 1.74 to 1.76 your prints will be overall smaller, because the printer thinks that so much filament makes so much print. Conversely, if you decrease this value your prints will be overall bigger. Of course it should actually be the exact value of your current filament, so that's why it's best to first calibrate your extruder using the above guide. When everything is set correctly, your prints will be dimensionally correct. My sliders all went in smoothly. When experimenting, only print a little piece of the slider so you don't use too much filament while calibrating

Good advice but... Most of us won't have the Kinetik profile to test fit with! My last piece finished printing this morning and I think I've still got about two weeks to wait. Hoping everything just works when it gets here!

Also, for US folks, found a pretty good deal on a server cabinet:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12U-Wall-M...ack-Glass-Door-Black-/352200813402?nav=SEARCH
Reviews say the quality is pretty good for the price. Will update once I get it.

 

[razzta01]

Sorry Guys if this has been posted, but my Slider off of the 3D printed materials list is SOOO tight it doesn't move at all. I can just barely get it on to the extruded Aluminum....How Much are folks sanding off to get it to slide?
This is as far as I can get the sliders on...Just prepping for Saturdays build any advice would be great!

Thank you!
View attachment 284860

I had to sand it too. No problem afterwards. I did lubricate it with wd40 dry PTFE. My PLA did absorb some. Nice lubrication!

Pls can you post a pic of your mod: Side Clamp - Set Screw hole drilled and set screw included with Shaft machined on one side to ensure solid set screw contact....just can't imagine how it looks like both sides assembled.

Rgds

 

[federico m caruso]

Hello Federico,


we recently discovered an abuse of this project by commercial kit builders.

This is not allowed for this open source project.


Can you please send me some photos of your build, that shows you are the builder.

Or you can join one of the forums an post a comment about your build.



I don't understand what is this for? can somebody hellp

 

[BluePotato00]

Below are photos of my electronics box. It's a 12" white wood laminate shelf cut to fit inside of a 30" x 15" x 15" storage ottoman (was $33 USD on Amazon when I ordered). I cut a hole in the back bottom left for the power cord input and a hole in the back bottom right to output the 8 servo motor cables and the USB cable (red in the photo). This will all sit immediately to the left of my rig.

I screwed the servo controllers down along with the Arduino and the DB25 breakout boxes. Wago terminals are superglued with inspiration from SteveD's build. I don't have the emergency stop wired yet. I'll wait to do that when I mount everything to the rig. But all four motors are spinning with telemetry data through SimFeedback, so all that's left is the mechanical part. Internals are coming later this week. The profile has been shipped, but hasn't budged in Germany for 5-6 days now!

I also need to mount a fan on the side of the ottoman or just always keep the lid off when powered up.

 

[sjb266]

That’s actually amazing...! A new concept in keeping sim toys hidden from the missus!

 

[MaltIce]

Sorry Guys if this has been posted, but my Slider off of the 3D printed materials list is SOOO tight it doesn't move at all. I can just barely get it on to the extruded Aluminum....How Much are folks sanding off to get it to slide?
This is as far as I can get the sliders on...Just prepping for Saturdays build any advice would be great!

Thank you!
View attachment 284860

Calibrate your extruder. Then print a test cube check all axis with a dial caliper you may need to also calibrate your X,Y, and Z axis most machines are not spot on but if you do this your prints will be. My first print was off ass well actually have 3 sliders that could be used if sanded if someone wants them.

 

[Requis]

Pls can you post a pic of your mod: Side Clamp - Set Screw hole drilled and set screw included with Shaft machined on one side to ensure solid set screw contact....just can't imagine how it looks like both sides assembled.Rgds

Sure is this what you meant?
Let me know if helpful?

 

[RowanH]

I had that too on my first prints.. I had to calibrate my extruder.. Then they slipped in nicely.....A shortcut to get your prints slightly smaller overall, is to increase your 'Filament Diameter' in your slicer settings.

Oooh ! I learnt something today. I'm going to update my blog post referencing this thread/post for anyone else who comes across the same problem. I should see if Saxxon accepts PR's to the official wiki, would be good to have that info there given I'm sure a lot of us bought 3d printers just for this project

 

[saxxon66]

Oooh ! I learnt something today. I'm going to update my blog post referencing this thread/post for anyone else who comes across the same problem. I should see if Saxxon accepts PR's to the official wiki, would be good to have that info there given I'm sure a lot of us bought 3d printers just for this project

Rowan, I recently discovered your blog and I love it!
It is very well written and pictured with videos, well done.
Do you mind if I link your blog in the wiki?

Sometimes it made me smile and here comes my pro tip:
Regarding the aluminium brackets. You do not need to file them down. They are supposed to snap off, if you put a flat head screwdriver below it and lever it up.
Sometimes it's that easy

 

[anton_Chez]

Haha yes, they are supposed to. I have a whole bunch of them and they do exactly that. However I bought another set to mount the actuators as I only had a few left over and when I went to snap them off with the flat head screwie, I realised that the ones I had were completely part of the bracket. Nothing that a few seconds on the angle grinder couldn't fix but yeah I was surprised to see that tonight.

My actuators are built and in the process of being mounted. Curious if any of you put a level to each of them on either side or just went by eye? They are quite awkward to mount by yourself. I had the missus push a couple of timber pieces under each corner for me as I lifted the rig but that's about as much help as I got! The are all mounted but they need to be adjusted slightly as they look a little crooked.

 

[anton_Chez]

Got everything mounted and connected. Still seems like I'm having massive USB issues. I haven't been able to get motion working in AC yet as a test drive. I've had the actuators go through their start up, and then cool down when pressing Start and Stop. Sometimes, it doesn't even let me stop, it just drops out without me doing anything. Had one time where one rear one was all the way down and the rest were at full tilt! I had to manually sit on the actuators to get them back down to level again. Might have been because I pulled out the USB once it had died and it was just about to return to bottom position.

Tried the powered hub, tried no hub but with the extension cable, tried using a power brick for the Arduino as well. As soon as it's in game it just freezes. You can see the orange light remain solid, this to me shows malfunction. Normally, when you hit Start, the orange light flashes intermittently awaiting a telemetry signal from the game. Half the time just hitting Start gives me the start sequence but immediately solid orange light. Sometimes it flashes as normal but always as soon as in game, solid orange.

I'll have to do come cable swapping tomorrow. Where the box is it's too far from the PC. I don't know what I'm going to do. It worked perfect connected directly to the PC front USB 2.0 port in testing with all 4 motors. Doesn't want to know about it now. I've checked the wiring even though I plan on redoing it but still it is fine. I mean they get power it's just the signal that dies.

Anyway...