The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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Just a quick question to everyone up and running while I am in testing mode. Does anyone make use of the rumble and RPM effects of the actuators? I was testing them out this morning before shooting off the work late and I am not sure what to make of it. I did have an issue where I turned all the other effects off and only ran the rumble settings and the actuators would turn off and lower themselves after a minute or two of running the AI driver. I wonder if not running the motion as intended is not recommended and the motors hit their safety limit operating solely as tactile based units? It could be a problem elsewhere on my end but this is the first time I've experienced this and last night I was driving for hours with no issue.

The same thing happens to me when I'm tuning a setup and only have actuator rumble or one of the actuator options checked. After a minute or two it lowers the actuators to the home position I'm not sure why that is but everything is fine once you check one of the other options.

Same behavior noticed here. Ran test laps on and off track and actuators didn't move with the RPM effects. Then the actuators went into parked position. No concern for me, though. I have a seat pad for engine RPM vibrations.
 
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Same behavior noticed here. Ran test laps on and off track and actuators didn't move with the RPM effects. Then the actuators went into parked position. No concern for me, though. I have a seat pad for engine RPM vibrations.
You have to have some sort of motion effect enabled... not just RPM or Rumble... otherwise the system goes into stanby after 60 seconds ( approx.) - it's not a system fault or bug, it's a feature :)
 
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I'm trying Project Cars 2 with the default profile included in SimFeedback. When I turn left, the rig should roll to the right, since that would simulate the G-forces pushing me to the right, correct? However, The seat seems to roll to the left when I turn left. Does anybody else experience this? Are one of these settings in the PC2 profile backwards?

sTu9PEeQbnYWS7KDkKZAnyumZ4yzdus5L2gR2ZtJkLVRmVquFUU7ilHZFnaj0CO2038A0wnFA5rfDkAZkDM6fwdlPsCgvPSMkXNT6JIO3r0MGFOko82cjphSo565QAfOZL1P8Z_2-2fBlnZVjQsfDbPW6YaJDFum4S68b2FyOP8DL2ldv-nj1ZSRDy-X6aOyQjSoHBqD-dZcnE-W-WfLYTt23kN34BW9F6DD1nWq5LSpwIXgGDH4AFYL69k_Z5xDrCX9PYw4z8iH3-XK8a9HtLj_yqL8Eg9RCHm134lNcykvdP7PZL7WX2mz89R5pWvlmGKOWMJmFOhyGuM3BTib9AceZsgktx2y9LaEG-GaNWQiwgMuyhzueY7ae5Af6CWyZq67-WhAwi9CiJ8Eon_IMTT9EqTZfMniBL0IvA4hk0-DGmX87YUlkf2MiIuFvZ5Dsv-1xtMFK2DVhFIZPwFM36KXuusOIAZqrjGg1c73UbM5yDFrmP1mlkldxOtlwWjJv3bi0HdMROJl-rDLhMo54S6yqrl089LG0Rb-ERHcMhGt1H_Q3Freg3OLHocrnhZP_t5oEbIb0AAyhQBxqP_Uj6-JxqRw2FfjNDO2L88MlG9AHfN9o6R3qg8fpjMpRDkMWbNJfqesOyC2bNFR6AFgZhg5=w1152-h878-no


(Note: In iRacing, when I turn left, the seat rolls to the right as I think it should.)
 
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@Spinelli Maybe 2 - 2.5 grande, USD depending on 3D printing options.

I paid just over $3,000 AUD start to finish. Already had an 80 20 chassis so bolted straight on.

@BluePotato00 Try inverting the Sway graph. Have the line going the other way, it should fix it. The Roll should be left to roll with the correct movement of the car. Try Sway like this: \
 
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the ball screw nut is a "closed" design, meaning if you grease just the screw, the majority of the grease will just be "pushed" along the screw as you move the ball nut up and down the screw shaft.
Ah, you could well be right. Looks like I might need to buy a grease gun then.
It's just in the first post of this thread an aerosol WD40 lithium grease is recommended so I figured you might just be able to spray it in using a nozzle. I've been maintaining mountain bikes for thirty years but have never used anything but tubs or tubes.
 
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Ah, you could well be right. Looks like I might need to buy a grease gun then.
It's just in the first post of this thread an aerosol WD40 lithium grease is recommended so I figured you might just be able to spray it in using a nozzle. I've been maintaining mountain bikes for thirty years but have never used anything but tubs or tubes.
I think the grease needs to be squirted in with pressure in order to get past the little plastic "door" you see there in the hole.
 
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I'm trying Project Cars 2 with the default profile included in SimFeedback. When I turn left, the rig should roll to the right, since that would simulate the G-forces pushing me to the right, correct? However, The seat seems to roll to the left when I turn left. Does anybody else experience this? Are one of these settings in the PC2 profile backwards?

sTu9PEeQbnYWS7KDkKZAnyumZ4yzdus5L2gR2ZtJkLVRmVquFUU7ilHZFnaj0CO2038A0wnFA5rfDkAZkDM6fwdlPsCgvPSMkXNT6JIO3r0MGFOko82cjphSo565QAfOZL1P8Z_2-2fBlnZVjQsfDbPW6YaJDFum4S68b2FyOP8DL2ldv-nj1ZSRDy-X6aOyQjSoHBqD-dZcnE-W-WfLYTt23kN34BW9F6DD1nWq5LSpwIXgGDH4AFYL69k_Z5xDrCX9PYw4z8iH3-XK8a9HtLj_yqL8Eg9RCHm134lNcykvdP7PZL7WX2mz89R5pWvlmGKOWMJmFOhyGuM3BTib9AceZsgktx2y9LaEG-GaNWQiwgMuyhzueY7ae5Af6CWyZq67-WhAwi9CiJ8Eon_IMTT9EqTZfMniBL0IvA4hk0-DGmX87YUlkf2MiIuFvZ5Dsv-1xtMFK2DVhFIZPwFM36KXuusOIAZqrjGg1c73UbM5yDFrmP1mlkldxOtlwWjJv3bi0HdMROJl-rDLhMo54S6yqrl089LG0Rb-ERHcMhGt1H_Q3Freg3OLHocrnhZP_t5oEbIb0AAyhQBxqP_Uj6-JxqRw2FfjNDO2L88MlG9AHfN9o6R3qg8fpjMpRDkMWbNJfqesOyC2bNFR6AFgZhg5=w1152-h878-no


(Note: In iRacing, when I turn left, the seat rolls to the right as I think it should.)

Just move the dots, it's so easy to adjust things. Make your own profile based on this one and share in the discord channel
 
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Since it was a topic a few days ago, I measured the bottom of my seat as 20 inches (51cm) from the floor when the actuators are in their lowest (parked) position. Probably a bit higher than average around here.

But my seat has sliding rails that raise it a couple inches and it's a proper Suzuki real car seat with several inches of padding in the seat, a vibration pad, and a sheepskin cover all adding to the height.
 
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@Mascot , if you smear it on the screw, it will have lubricated the screw but you really want to get it in the ball race where the balls spend a lot of their time so you should put it in the correct place or the balls wont be properly greased.
 
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Guys who are still starting, building or waiting for parts. If you want to some testing, you can connect the arduino, flash it, donate and run Simfeedback. Start the game and profile of your choice.

If you check the realtime data output box in the expert mode, you can already see what telemetry you are receiving. This may give you a headstart when everything is build and ready to race.



Together with Simfeedback, i run Simcommander4 (GS-4/AccuForce/Simvibe) and Simtools (WindSim).

This usually works with all sims, but the are some exceptions. Iracing needed the 60Hz telemetry provider, for which we all thank JamesClonk.

For the latest Codemaster games (F1 2018 and probably Dirt Rally 2) there's another problem. You can not manually edit the value in the hardwaresettingconfig.xml anymore.

All 3 programs i need all use port 20777 and do not allow sharing it with other applications (even though this should be possible) This meant that i could only use either SFX100, AF + GS4 or Windsim, but not together.

So i spend a lot of time trying to get everything to work in F1 2018. Manage to edit existing plugins and got some help from @saxxon66. I have managed a way to get things working:

F1 2018 sends data to port 10002
On port 10002 The sim racing proxy server receives the data and forwards it to

-20777 Simcommander F1 2018 plugin
-20778 Simfeedback altered "CodemasterAlt" plugin ( instead of standard port 20777 )
-20779 Simtools altered "F1 2018" plugin (instead of the standard port 20777 )

Data output in in F1 2018 is set 10002 and the hardwaresettingsconfig.xml is set to read only in order to prevent Simcommander to change the port to 20777 at start.:)
 
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I know Kinetic seem to be getting a free pass because they are the only supplier of this extrusion and it'll apparently turn up eventually, but I really am not very happy to have no acknowledgement of receipt over ten days after paying a large sum of money in good faith, despite regular unanswered enquiries from my end. This really is an unacceptable e-commerce process no matter the relative small size of the order. I can't imagine they treat their industrial partners this casually. Would it kill them to respond? Google is obviously tracking my frustration and I almost opened a fake German FedEx consignment email this morning.

/rant.
 
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Typical of Codemasters. Making the already least attractive options of sim racing even more so by locking their .xml files. Probably won't even bother with DR2. I've already prepared myself for the disappointment.
 
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Yeah fair enough mate.. must be super frustrating.. hang in there.
Just needed to vent after almost being tricked into opening a phishing email. My experience seems no different to most of you here so that helps to ease my concerns (but doesn't excuse them), but I'm just flabbergasted that a German engineering supplier would have such poor customer communication. I pray that the bits arrive present and correct and in tip-top condition because I shudder to think what trying to deal with their customer relationship department will be like.
 
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Shifting method

  • I use whatever the car has in real life*

  • I always use paddleshift

  • I always use sequential

  • I always use H-shifter

  • Something else, please explain


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