Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals

My journey started with a T300 and the basic 2 pedal set, I wasn't sure if the racing bug would really kick in so I wasn't willing to invest all too much early on and ever since I have been chasing my tail in the Thrustmaster ecosystem. The dual pedals it came with sucked and I very quickly ended up getting T3PA Pros to replace them.

T3PA Pros
I bought a set of T3PA Pros and they were a decent improvement. The brake was still positional but the conical brake in the box was OK if a bit stiff. I found the BJS Conical mod about 18 months ago and the green rubber was actually quite a good feeling with a gamma of 1.4. I drove like that for nearly a year and I got a lot better. I had managed to dial in a mostly linear feel but I had two problems at each end. At the top end of braking, there were too few values to give smooth adjustments and secondly, I couldn't really feel where 10% was so coming off trailing was a bit hard. I figured I would work it out in the end but I never got the hang of it consistently.

6 months ago I got an SRS (https://www.simracingsolutions.co.uk/) loadcell mod. Unlike the Ricomotech one, this pushes directly horizontally into the loadcell via rubber grommet. It is really solid, the pedal barely moves with this installed. It's not configurable either, so all you can really do is increase the minimum and decrease the maximum in-game to dial it in. Supposedly it has a 20KG loadcell in it, I was mostly using it at 45% in AC. This took my braking up a notch and made trailing easier, but I couldn't really come off the brake smoothly and slowly, the lack of movement was a bit of an issue. Hitting the points (100, 80, 20) was all fine but if I came off the brake and then wanted a blip of it the minimum was about 10%. There was too much pressure to get things going at all, it felt like 50% to get the first 10% and then linear upwards to 100% and that was the biggest problem. I wanted the trail to be half the pressure I was using at least it was far too heavy from the outset. They did offer to ship me a 10KG loadcell and that might have helped but I think the problem was more inherent to the design than the sensor.

T-LCMs

Enter the Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals. The moment I saw reviews I figured the setup application combined with the configurable springs was likely going to be what I was looking for. I had a loadcell already and it had improved my driving but it wasn't easy to learn to use and I didn't like the pedal feel at all. I got them out of the box 3 hours ago (after leaving them for a week to de virus!).

I tried the initial medium brake setting, found about 60% brake pressure was similar, removed most of the minimum force and went for a drive. I drove the same car/track/grip I drove in an endurance race a few days ago so it was fresh in my mind for comparison. I dropped 1.5seconds at best, but more importantly I had a lap to lap variance of 0.2-0.3s. I managed maybe 0.6s with occasional bad laps with the SRS Loadcell, these things instantly fixed my inconsistency problem. Its one thing to eventually find the pedals help, but to instantly just find them amazing I was not expecting that. The confidence I have with these brakes within minutes of getting them out of the box is incredible.

The initial setup they have too much travel for my taste and I think I want to remove the preload motion, go a bit stiffer and get the throttle further away so I can heel-toe blip easier. But already I can see coming off smoothly is easy, hitting the key points for threshold was easy to learn and trailing was not a problem at all. I am impressed, as a combination its cheaper than the T3PA Pros and the Fanatec loadcell set which I nearly bought until these were announced. It is clearly better in every way than the SRS loadcell. Loadcells are not all equal and having that movement in the pedal helps with consistency just as the loadcell helps the muscle memory, I need both to race well apparently. My pedals were definitely limiting me and Thrustmaster has done a good job with these, hall sensors on the throttle and clutch and that smooth loadcell.

About the only thing that has irritated me is the need to unplug the USB for the pedals if you change a setting, but it's going to be an initial annoyance that disappears once I am done with the setup process.
 
Just ordered these with the matching stand.

Not a massive fan of Thrustmaster but the t stand made me buy these so I can place them under the desk.

The issues I have read about Thrustmasters wheels is legendary,they all seem to flake out just after the warranty finishes lol,must be a self destruct chip made inside set for the warranty period,many more users have replaced 3 or 4 wheels and then gave up.

Would love to find a t300 or tx user on here that has used their wheel without issues for 10 years like I have with my g27.

Are they really that shocking or over abused,I would love to know the truthful answer to that question,I know the ffb is set at 75 default,if I owned one,I would crank it back to 70 or 65.

Seems to have an aggressive auto calibration,seems to me they put a lamb (the steering and especially ffb mechanism)in muttons clothing,cheap casing,ventilation fan and poor fitting components,I don’t like that connector they use for the qr wheel function.

P.S. I’m betting my pedals will do something weird over time,it’s a Thrustmaster afterall,this will be my Thrust trust test with the company,if these pedals fall off the cliff after a few months,no more Thrustmaster for me.

Regretting my purchase already.

Thrustmaster remind me when I was a gullible kid looking for my first car and being wowed by the car with the nice wheel rims and sports steering wheel but driving it with 3 cylinders........I think it was metallic pea in colour as well.
 
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I bought a second hand T150 5 years ago and use it daily. Have done hundreds of hours on it and it has never missed a beat in iracing, AC and even did drifting with it for a month (the motor is a bit slow for drifting but it's still possible). The only issue I have with it is colour on the rubber grips is starting to fade from the heavy use.
 
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The issues I have read about Thrustmasters wheels is legendary,they all seem to flake out just after the warranty finishes lol,must be a self destruct chip made inside set for the warranty period,many more users have replaced 3 or 4 wheels and then gave up.

Legendary? That’s a really sweeping statement with very little in the way of evidence to back it up! Like many others, I’ve had my TM wheel way beyond its warranty period with zero issues. Even if you could find as many as 50 different people online with wheels which have “flaked out”, that would be an almost insignificant number compared to the total number sold. Many of the posts you read around the forums are by the same people - the number of posts doesn’t equal the number of separate problems. Do you have any personal experience of their “legendary” failure rate?

P.S. I’m betting my pedals will do something weird over time,it’s a Thrustmaster afterall,this will be my Thrust trust test with the company,if these pedals fall off the cliff after a few months,no more Thrustmaster for me.

Regretting my purchase already.

You really do seem to be a “glass half empty” kind of guy. Why buy them if you’re so convinced they’re going to fail?
 
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I have a T300RS for I don't know how many years. But much more than the warranty.
I bought T-LCM pedals and while I cannot compare to Fanatec they are a huge upgrade from the stock ones.
Basically, I got like 2 seconds faster on average and much more consistent. I also modified my seating position so maybe it is not all from the pedals.

However, for the money, I think they are a great option. But let's see if they can endure abuse.
 
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Legendary? That’s a really sweeping statement with very little in the way of evidence to back it up! Like many others, I’ve had my TM wheel way beyond its warranty period with zero issues. Even if you could find as many as 50 different people online with wheels which have “flaked out”, that would be an almost insignificant number compared to the total number sold. Many of the posts you read around the forums are by the same people - the number of posts doesn’t equal the number of separate problems. Do you have any personal experience of their “legendary” failure rate?



You really do seem to be a “glass half empty” kind of guy. Why buy them if you’re so convinced they’re going to fail?

Mostly forums and you tube comments where alot,not just one have bought multiple t300 or tx wheels and they fail after a period of a short time,the tiny fan used,the electronics dying.

Most have moved on to either Fanatec or more expensive gear,probably because of the direct drive wheels.

It has turned me off buying any Thrustmaster gear,I remember when I spent a fortune on a Cougar hotas and thing was broke in the box so it left a sour taste in my mouth.

Also the pricing in Australia has gone through the roof,especially the ts series of wheels which are going from 1,200 to 1,700 for the Sparco package with t3pa pedals.



The Logis only problem are the pots on the pedals,the wheel will last a long long time,rarely see many complaints about Logis and just about everyone starts off buying that wheel as a beginner so the user base is enormous,most people drop the Logis because of the gear ffb and small force used ,not reliability issues.

I actually think the t150 or tmx may be the most durable wheel in Thrustmasters lineup.

I have heard alot of complaints about t300s and tx wheels failing.

Will check to see if anyone in the future has used a stock t300 without issues for 10 years,no modding,I know people put Noctua fans in them.
 
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I have a T300RS for I don't know how many years. But much more than the warranty.
I bought T-LCM pedals and while I cannot compare to Fanatec they are a huge upgrade from the stock ones.
Basically, I got like 2 seconds faster on average and much more consistent. I also modified my seating position so maybe it is not all from the pedals.

However, for the money, I think they are a great option. But let's see if they can endure abuse.

You are one of the lucky ones.

What ffb settings do you use on the wheel?

If I bought one,I would take the overall ffb back a tad to 70,I know they default at 75 but I would take it down to prolong the longevity of the unit.

I know alot of users recommend cranking them up to 100,maybe that’s when the failures start.

Also I read that the fans would not kick in,causing over heating which has since been fixed in a firmware update?

I still think they could have put in a larger fan for not much extra outlay.
 
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Hi,
Back to the topic, i got my tlcm pedals days ago.
The clutch and the Gas pedals are a Dream compared to my default t300rs ones.
But i still have problems to get the right feeling of the break.

I connected the gear direct to the wheel. Is it necessary or is it better to connect them via usb?
Only reason is the calibration software ? Isnt it?
 
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Most have moved on to either Fanatec...

Which currently have even more complaints than Thrustmaster.

You are one of the lucky ones.

No, he’s just not one of the small minority of unlucky ones!

I connected the gear direct to the wheel. Is it necessary or is it better to connect them via usb?
Only reason is the calibration software ? Isnt it?

If you use the USB connection, you get 16 bit resolution (65,535 steps) whereas if you connect them through a TM wheelbase, you get 12 bit resolution (4,096 steps). I would think that, in normal use, you probably wouldn’t notice the difference and it frees up a USB port on your PC.
 
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Too old for simracing now so not bothered about not getting these pedals.

If I was born in the 80’s or 90’s,I would have bought all the super expensive gear but don’t give a toss anymore,depression is taking over,I like motor racing but not obssesed with it,even music bores me nowadays,movies,I never watch because my mind wanders like a top and I miss the plot all the time.

The World today was designed for the smart and the rest of us can go die in a corner somewhere.

Feel horrible depression today,feel empty.

Haven’t seen my gf for 8 weeks,covid is starting to turn me into a loony to the point nothing matters in life,I could die tomorrow and not give two hoots,it’s only the pain I’m scared of.

Being competitive and all that human stuff is far away from my mind,I never was into that anyway.

Tomorrow,I will feel better.

Chinese government need the full book thrown at them for what they have done to the World.

This virus will not be the last,the next one will be more deadly I fear and then we will be locked away for years.
 
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Hi smasha,

It sounds not good. I mean i dont know you personally but hearing/reading such stuff from another human makes me sad.
Depression and all kind of those thing are serious and dangerous
I think most of us feel shitty right now with the global pandemic Situation. But those of us which are not directly hurt by covid yet (hope it stays so) try to live on as normal as possible can.
What can we do otherway.
And simracing, maybe our biggest hobby is a possible way to live on normal way.

I am a bit suprised maybe shocked about your post. Why in this thread?

Man i am sure you are not alone. Talk to family or friends.
Talking with other people while you are depressive is Important.

Get well soon
 
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Back to the topic again. I was unhappy with the brakes till yesterday when i decided to try to Connect them via USB.
The clou was - i got acces to the calibration Tool, what become the key for me.

I had to delete the default set Braking deadzone- and reduce the braking power from 70 to 60.
Now i am very happy and impressed with These brakes

I reccomend to all use the Tool
 
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Where did you guys get your T-LCM's from?
My T300RS standard pedals broke a couple days ago so need to replace them. The T-LCM is my main option, cheaper than other competitors with load cells and seen some good reviews.

Trouble is everywhere I have looked they are currently out of stock annoyingly!
 
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I have the Fanatec csl elite load cell and I think I wish I would have bought the Thrustmaster tlcm instead, the load cell arrangement on the fanatec is in a stupid place and depending on where your foot lands on the pedal the amount read can differ widely it is a shi*t design
 
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